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Brandy

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Brandy last won the day on August 9 2020

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About Brandy

  • Birthday April 28

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    Male
  • Location
    Abu Dhabi
  • Interests
    Aviation in general, WWI in particular.

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  1. Looking good! Flaps, by the way, are on the inner portion of the wing. Either underneath or the entire rear section. They are deployed for landing (on some aircraft also partially deployed for take off) to reduce the stall speed, increase lift, and also act as air brakes to some extent. The moveable bits on the tail are rudder (verticle) or elevators (horizontal). The "little back fin thing" is a trim tab, to help reduce the control pressures. Here endeth todays lesson. Ian
  2. The rigging is just practice and pre-planning. Here's where I was when I got back into the hobby and here's where I am now As I said, it's only practice and pre-planning, plus using the right materials. I use 0.06mm monofilament fishing line (1.5lbs test). For 1:48 you could go to 2lb test at 0.10mm quite easily. Ian
  3. One of the reasons I have had Airfix's 1:24 Stuka in a box since 1978 - I couldn't find enough detail references! Lovely work as usual! Ian
  4. Welcome to the dark world of WWI aircraft modelling! I can't help with kit recommendations as I only build in 1:72 but remember you won't improve if you don't challenge yourself. Start with something simple such as a Fokker Eindekker, Triplane, or D.VII which have minimal or basic rigging. The key areas are: 1) learning how to fit the upper wing 2) pre planning the rigging 3) pre painting everything My preferred method for rigging is to drill and thread, but you could use stretched sprue, wire, or other options. Try them and decide which suits you best. Drilling and threading will add structural strength but means you will have to leave one wing unfinished until the rigging is done. If you decide to drill and thread, use the thinnest monofilament you can find. Thicker thread will make fitting it harder and leave bends at the ends. You may also have to add decals before rigging if the rigging passes through them, such as on an Eindekker. Different aircraft require different approaches. If there is anything I can do to help, feel free to ask. The main thing is, have fun! Ian
  5. Welcome aboard. Looking forward to seeing the Stuka built. I got mine as a birthday present from my Grandma. I've had it a while, she passed away in 1978! Ian
  6. Welcome aboard Mitch. You'll find plenty of helpful advice here if you need it, just jump in and get going! Ian
  7. Et voila! Sorry I was not able to comment sooner Bill. I have been in the US for a week and flew back today (yesterday?). 12 hour flight from NY to Dubai, plus an 8 hour time difference has left me half asleep for most of today (UAE time) or most of last night (US time)! Lovely clear, sharp, pics of lovely clear, sharp, seats! Most impressed I am too, especially with the "jig"! I am currently trying to recover normal time frame awareness with a beer or two. If I fail, Alan has power of attorney. Ian
  8. The R 101 should be easy enough. Collect a handful of plastic rod, some of it curved, and drop it onto a green board. Job done! Ian
  9. It's funny how things will either go nicely, or horribly. Nothing in the middle. This one really is putting up a fight but we all know who will win! Ian
  10. I have left resin in the tank for over a week with no issues. I just stir it slowly with a plastic spatula to remix it properly. My printer is only about 4 feet from a floor to ceiling glass window which is in full sunlight all afternoon, in UAE! I do need to get some finer material to use as a filter for the IPA though. The paper ones I bought are not fine enough. Maybe some muslin or similar fine cloth would work? Ian
  11. Fnaar, snurf... Well someone had to! Lovely engine though, what an improvement. The hoses are well worth the effort, they really bring it to life. Ian
  12. What a lovely build, glad I found it! I do agree though that the panel highlights are a little too much, but still at the edge of acceptable. Ian
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