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About Columbia20713

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  1. Yup, that's the part I'm referring to. Thanks for the photos! They really give an idea of the overall shape and profile of the dome. So far, I've started work on the engines and am close to finishing: Rear of the engines were painted with Alclad II, painted and drybrushed over with brown oil paints over and over then sealed in with Aqua Gloss. I'm considering going over the foremost portion of the hot section (Is that what it's called?) with matt brown paint to match the real Trent XWB appearance more. The work remaining on the engines is concentrated on seam-filling (Fit's almost there but not quite) and the painting, which is the hard part. I need to prepare paint mixes for the engine/fuselage stripe color (very light blue, according to other threads FS25550?) and the wing color (much much lighter than the standard Airbus/Boeing gray with a difference from white that's subtle but noticeable nonetheless) The fuselage seam-filling process is close to being done. One or two more coats of primer and a bit more work on the Wi-Fi dome and it should be finished, the clear windows applied, then work can start on the undercarriage segment. For the Wi-Fi dome, I gathered an album of references that could at least approximate the profile of the dome and scaled it to size according to side-view photos I've looked at and scaled accordingly. I'm also going to be printing a set of new decals for the insides of the winglets. From what I've looked at, the decals that the F-DCAL sheet provides has the brushwing logo to be too big. I'm also in the process of checking how the brushwing logo on the nose scales up to the real thing; It looks off to my eye but I think I'm nitpicking a little too much here.. The dome is about 1.64 cm long from what I've measured. So i scaled it, cut it out, glued it on to a thin piece of plastic card, cut it out and glued it to the model at the approximate location where it should be. I then surrounded that with Apoxie Sculpt, which I'm giving a day or two to dry then I'll start layering and sanding it appropriately. Hopefully I'll be able to complete the engines soon and put on the windows. That's the part that'll take a while though..
  2. I finished this a couple months back but didn't really have the chance to post it. This is their Profipack boxing from 2007, painted with a combination of Tamiya and Gunze acrylics in the colors of Karl Spenst's Fw 190 of 8.JG300. A lot of reviews of this kit talk about it being difficult to fit together and unforgiving to construction mistakes, and it certainly shows - This build took me around 4 months to complete, most of it being construction with me nearly abandoning it. It's not impossible, though, and the end result is rewarding with lots of attention to detail. The Profipack boxing also comes with a masking set and photoetch, all in all which make the build a completely different animal from your usual Tamiya 1/48 kit. It's certainly doable and a good contender for a detailed Fw 190, although I heard Eduard's doing a new-tool version that might be better. Anyways, here are the photos: Feedback and criticism is appreciated, thanks for looking!
  3. Thanks! Actually, I left off the underside piece for now, hoping that if I decide on using clear strips for the windows I can insert it from underneath beforehand. I'm really leaning towards the glazing option now though as more and more gaps and fit issues reveal themselves along the fuselage and underside. As for the cockpit, well.. I might as well get on to that. Suffice to say I cracked the piece again and after another repair the part was looking too scratched up and the fit just didn't seem to work, so I bit the bullet and decided to abandon my original plan of leaving it as clear, sanded and painted it on to the fuselage with the intention of painting and decaling over it without the transparencies being left as, well, transparent. I was about to order the cockpit decals from Authentic Airliners but they don't ship here, so I'm kind of stuck with making my own and having it printed if I have any chance of making it look like a good replacement for the clear parts. Gap filling work on the fuselage continues, using sprue melted in Tamiya Extra Thin, Tamiya Fine Surface Primer (in the bottle, without thinning it makes a good gap filler) and Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty. I've applied Finishing Surfacer 1500 White over and under it for two rounds now, trying to iron out the gaps. I'm not gonna lie, the tiny ones are more infuriating to deal with than the major gaps. Filling them in isn't as straightforward and sometimes whatever filler you use might not be effective enough in filling the tiny gap. There's gonna be a lot of this going on for a while, especially after I attach the underside piece. (Also I apologize for the blurry out-of-focus bokeh type pictures; higher apertures don't bode so well for bench shots with a handheld DSLR.) I also put the wings together, with very minor gap-filling involved; I also decided to start planning on how I'll go about making the Ku-Band dome on the top of the fuselage since CX A350s have them. I'll be scratchbuilding them with epoxy putty, but at the moment I don't have a lot of references to go by. Anything that could help would be appreciated. I laid down some Tamiya tape to mark approximately where it would go based on the pictures and profiles I've seen. So hopefully I could get the cockpit decals done and printed soon enough for the decalling phase. Aside from the cockpit decals, I may also have to print some new decals that replace some of the ones F-DCAL provided in their sheet. Some of the fonts and the brushwing mark on the nose seem to be off proportion but I'll be going over that more, since I'm not too sure about it yet. I'll go into that in more detail on my next build log update.
  4. So after a chaotic 2-hour ordeal of trying to get a heavy weight to stay within the fuselage, draping Extra Thin on a long seam, and fighting with the nose of the fuselage with thin CA and a hairdryer in hand, I got the fuselage together. The fit was good in some places and completely messy in others, but at least it's done. Time to fill, sand and prime the fuselage repeatedly. Oh, yeah, on another note, don't mess with thin CA. It really gets everywhere, even with just a small amount.. I've also been looking at the windscreen fit, which was not very good: In trying to get the piece to conform, I cracked it and had to make a repair with Extra Thin. After sanding and dipping the thing in Aqua Gloss to remove the scratches, it.. definitely does not look as good as it did before, but it's at least enough that I can lay a decal over it and hide the mistake somewhat. I'm lucky that it cracked over one of the areas that wouldn't be seen once laid over by a decal or painted. Worst case scenario, I'll either paint the area black and lay the decal over it or custom print an A350 window interior myself in the style of Authentic Airliners' decals. But I'll take care of the gaps around the windscreen once filling and sanding of the fuselage is done. It's not gonna be a quick process, but the gaps definitely look possible to handle. I also cemented the wings together: (Those aren't cemented to the fuselage. They just fit snug) The fit of the wings being really good is a breather from fighting with the fuselage. If the fill-sand process gets really repetitive I might end up laying the final gloss coats of the wings long before the fuselage is done.. Hopefully the repetition of eliminating fuselage gaps would grant me time to start working on the engines and the smaller parts so that I won't have to worry about them as much later in the build..
  5. The Authentic Airliners decals look great! I'll forgo buying them for this build, though; Shipping going here is usually expensive and takes a while, and I feel like I'm in a better position to use clear windows. I'll definitely use them for one of my future builds though (If I can shell out enough for the price..) Thanks for the link! Shame about those lost photos, though. I was able to incorporate one of the suggestions in the thread (Or at least what I understood of it) on attaching the nose gear later in the build. The Finnair livery looks really clean on the A350.. That build looks stunning! Really impressive and clean, and flawless execution. The AA decals complement it well too. I'm starting to believe that my case with the bad fit is just an unlucky boxing or the box has gone through a lot. Most of the build experiences I'm reading about do also say the kit's fit is flawless. Yeah, thanks! That stripe does look intimidating to recreate, but nothing that can't be done without a really wise use of tape. The A350's nose does have a really odd look to it but somehow I like that unique appearance. Thanks, I appreciate it! I can see what you're saying about the faint panel lines; They're barely visible. That shouldn't be too much of a problem though, since in real life you can really only see the panel lines of an airliner up close anyway. Or at least, that's how I'd rather think about it. So progress is kind of slow, but I'm at least getting somewhere. Here's where I'm at: Since AM decals aren't an option for me and I'd honestly prefer clear windows to the monotonous black windows provided by F-DCAL, my options are to use the clear window strips or to glaze the windows from the outside before overlaying them with the kit-provided window decal strips. For the glazing, I've been experimenting with using Bondic/UV Glue; The windows look somewhat concave and the results look similar to how it would look if i used Micro Kristal Klear, but UV Glue can be cured immediately with, you guessed it, UV light. It also cures solid so applying multiple layers should be easy and I can lay decals over them without any problems of it reactivating. It's also rock hard to an extent so knocking/poking it accidentally is less of a possibility. At the moment, though, I'm concerned with the quantity I have and its tendency not to cure fully sometimes (which can result in some of it being easily tainted with fingerprints, etc). My alternative is painting the window area with my white paint (in this case Mr. Finishing Surfacer 1500 White), putting the clear window strips in and sealing the fuselage, and making sure to stay away from the window strips during painting. I'm not sure that's ideal though; Test fitting of the fuselage shows that I'll be forced to fill, sand and prime over and over so being able to stay away from the clear parts might be a little difficult. On another note, I painted and attached the bay parts. Yeah, it looks like a mess; Evaluating the fuselage halves I realized that it was this half that probably had the nose misalignment and ended up fighting with the nose parts with a hairdryer and way too much thin CA to get them in place. Not the best way to start off a build, but it at least still fits. I might as well mention the arrangement I made to put the nose gear parts in at the end of the build. Building off of what I understood from Ray's build thread I cut off one of the pegs attaching of the gear bay on the nose gear leg so that I can maneuver it into the gear bay. I put the triangular shaped.. thing on the gear bay so that when the time comes, I can swing that part open, put the remaining peg in its corresponding gear bay hole, apply glue on the other and attach the gear legs to the rest of the gear bay assembly. I have no idea how much of that makes sense. But the arrangement does seem to work (and is admittedly difficult to work with, what with the constrained space of the gear bay.) While I tried to determine whether Bondic or clear window strips were better for the windows, I decided to remove the wings from their sprues and do a test fit. To my relief, they fit so perfectly that it's surprising. After my experience with the fuselage I was worried that some kind of distortion might've happened to the wings as well but they do fit well enough to be attached into the fuselage with no glue, as other build reports also state. One of the A350's winglet tips has been chipped off though. I don't know what kind of sutff this box has gone through for the fuselage to be bent out of fitting properly and for the wing to chip off slightly (I think its more of poor sprue gating design on Revell's part though) but it's nothing that can't be fixed with some plasticard or Apoxie Sculpt. I also bought a bottle of Mr. Color 314 for the Cathay scheme's fuselage stripe and for the engines; I'm a bit skeptical about it though. In terms of lightness it seems close enough but it kind of has a greenish tint to it while in real life it just seems to be a really really light blue. Thankfully though the green hue isn't very noticeable so I'd likely still be able to use this. Depending on what I choose to do for the windows, I'll either get the fuselage sealed and go for the fill-sand process God I hate that part or lay down a coat of paint on the fuselage halves and then fit them together. I should also be starting soon on finding a mix for the wing color.
  6. So I'm starting Revell's relatively new A350-900 kit and painting it in Cathay Pacific colors. I'm coming to it after a year or so of the kit sitting in my stash while I (kind of?) planned how to go about it. I'm still unsure about a lot of my paint choices and the like, but I'll get to it as I go. I've heard mostly good things about this kit, so I'm reasonably confident with how it will go together. Hopefully I'll be able to deal with some of the mistakes I used to make with these big projects better. So here's the obligatory box shot, I got the boxing with the Lufthansa decals. I might be using some of the kit decals like the raccoon windows and window linings. They look great and are printed by Cartograf (I think?) so that's nice. The box looks sliced up and all but that's cause I wanted to get around the atrocious side-opening design. If you're reading this, Revell.. No one likes it when you do that So here are the decals, from F-DCAL. I plan to depict B-LRM, one of CX's particular A350s which I've been on twice now (but, on the contrary have relatively few pictures of.) One of the few pictures I took of it in HKIA. I know, I know, that picture has so much grain that it looks like it was from the 1960s or something. But hey, a reference is a reference. Anyways, so I started with the cockpit. I'm pleasantly surprised Revell put a bunch of detail with that, even if the detail is vague. Not the best job, but in the end it's barely going to be seen, so it should be fine. I also painted the fuselage black since, ideally, I'll be using the clear window strips. Still not 100% sure on how I'll mask it or put it on near the end of a build, though. I might just glaze it with Bondo or X-22, but the former I have very little of while X-22 is messy. I decided to test fit the fuselage. The result was good everywhere else except for the nose, though. Which has a really bad fit for some reason. Warping maybe? The rest of the fuselage is aligned, but the nose isn't. If I align the nose, it's the cockpit that gets misaligned. I'm hoping that the cockpit parts might help negate some of the warping, but I'm not really counting on it. So, next up is painting the landing gear parts (Somehow, the nose gear requires being attached at the start of the build) and fuselage cementing. Ooh, boy. That's gonna be fun. On a sidenote, how do you guys keep fuselages from cracking with a seam that long and with flimsy plastic? I'm considering adding some kind of plastic reinforcement or card under the seam or on the fuselage so that it wouldn't bend and reopen after every fill. Thanks for reading!
  7. That's great! Thanks for linking it to me, I'll wait patiently for their release then. I hope Philippine Airlines A350 decals are made with these winglets in mind. Thanks for the suggestions. Those approaches all sound definitely doable. The last one with inserting the clear windows from underneath definitely sounds like it's a good risk-free approach, although gluing them into place might be harder..
  8. I'm going to be building Revell's 1/144 A350-900 in either Cathay Pacific or Philippine Airlines colors, and before I get to the build, there are just a few questions I want to ask about it: 1. Philippine Airlines' A350 has the new Airbus sharklets that are different from the ones on the first batches of A350s. From the comparison pictures I've seen, the shape is only slightly different from a distance but can be told apart from the older winglets, and if what I read is correct, all following A350s will have these new winglets. Revell's kit has the older "stubbier" winglets though. Does anyone sell any 3aftermarket winglets that reflect these changes? Or if not, does anyone know how I could go about scratchbuilding them or have drawings of the new winglet? I'm also considering just leaving it as is as the change might not be all that visible anyway and whatever I could muster would probably not be close anyway. 2. I'm looking for colors that could match the A350 wings' offwhite appearance, and Tamiya's Insignia White seems to be the closest one I could get readily. Has anyone tried this color for their airliners? Or does anyone know any other paints I could use for the A350 wings? 3. (Not really A350-related as the other questions but still airliner related) I want to use clear windows for the A350 build rather than going with decals. I'm not sure how I'd go about it though - I can either use the windows provided in the kit or glaze the windows with Krystal Klear. If I go for the former, I'd have to mask all the windows off or pre-paint a part of the fuselage. If I go for the latter, I wouldn't know how to recreate the thin gray outlines around the windows; In my experience, placing decals over Krystal Klear makes them less transparent and more of foggy. Would anyone know a way of how I can mask the windows off, or know a workaround around the issue with Krystal Klear and decals and the like? Thanks in advance!
  9. Thanks for the compliments, guys! Yes, I also tried to shorten the nose gear but the odd nose-up stance is still there. Maybe a little more would've worked to correct it.
  10. This plane doesn't really need an introduction.. But I'll make one anyway. For those of you who don't know what it is; Have you been living under a rock? The Aerospatiale-BAC Concorde was one of the first and only supersonic passenger airliners to enter service. Its design was unique, graceful and miles ahead of any of its contemporaries and up until now, no airliner has been able to surpass it. The aircraft's economic future was short-lived, though; In the end, only Air France and British Airways ordered it, paid almost entirely for by their respective governments due to low demand, rising fuel costs and high fuel and maintenance expenses. It was retired in 2003 after its only crash in Paris as well as the commercial aviation industry plummeting after the attacks of September 11, 2001. The kit is Revell's 2005 tooling of the Concorde with BA's Chatham livery, depicting G-BOAG in the 5-degree nose-down takeoff position. So, before anything else, here are the pics! The model was painted with Base White 1000 for the white basecoat and the gloss coat was Tamiya X-22 with Mr. Levelling Thinner. The metallic parts of the engines were painted with Alclad II Airframe Aluminum under XF-1 + X-22. The rest of the aircraft and the smaller components were either painted with Tamiya acrylics or Alclad II White Aluminum. Now, about the kit.. Hoooo boy, where to start? I'll probably end up writing this like it was it's own review. The first thing you notice about the kit is that it has very few parts - Only around 60 if I remember right - but for such a simple kit, it's also a major pain in the behind to assemble overall. Because of the age of the mold, expect to be trimming off sheets of flash as well. The fit of the fuselage components is fine, but the wing components are especially difficult. The way it's engineered, the entire underside of the wings + undercarriage and bottom half of the fuselage are to be fitted in one piece, but the assembly's so flimsy that it's difficult to keep all of it glued to whatever fuselage supports there are without buckets of cement or CA. This also affects the way that the upper half of the wings fits together. The whole assembly is so flimsy that it bends too easily. In the end, the seam that connects the bottom half and upper half of the wing were impossible for me to eliminate as they just kept cracking and reopening every time I put putty over it and sanded. It would be advisable to stuff some plastic card or CA and talcum powder in there so that it has some structural support. The engines were also tedious to fit together but it was possible to get a flush fit if you test fitted and sanded ad nauseam. Some of the components fit well and others simply didn't. Be careful to test fit everything and you should be able to proceed with the rest of the build somewhat more smoothly. The decals are printed by Cartograf and as a result are quite nice to work with. The adhesive isn't too strong, which on one hand means that they're easy to work with and don't get stuck the moment they're applied. On the other it also means that they're somewhat more prone to being shuffled around when you don't want them to and peeling off. For an airliner kit a lot of stencils are provided which is nice although they might seem too many for some. Check reference photos of the particular aircraft you're modelling. Some of the stencils seemed to be in wrong places in the instructions or not existent at all, especially in the engines. As mentioned in other reviews, the nose gear is too long and should be trimmed a few mm. I did this on my build but found it wasn't enough as the model still had an excessive nose-up position. The nose visor and windscreen is also wrong - The model depicts it as flat but it should be angled. I scratchbuilt this by bending a piece of plasticard and with a bunch of epoxy putty, and printed my own decals for the cockpit windscreens. Worked out pretty well, I think. The main gears need careful alignment because otherwise it doesn't fit on all fours. It doesn't show all that much on the photos, though. Closing in on a long wall of text, I certainly made more than a few mistakes during the build, but despite the difficulty I'm rather content with how it turned out. Thanks for somehow reading until this point, and any feedback would be appreciated!
  11. Thanks for the comments! IMO even though 1/200 might seem limited in detail, I think it's great especially given how unwieldy 1/144 can get if your space is limited, and they make for a very relaxing change making it easier to turn out a good model. It's also a good canvas for testing out new techniques and practicing before moving on to more expensive airliner kits. If you do get around to building that Cathay B777, I'd be interested in seeing it posted!
  12. Thank you! The triple-seven's one of my favorites also. One of the most graceful looking airliners in the sky that are still flying in my opinion.
  13. Added a few new images to the title thread as well as some opinions on the kit itself to the original thread.
  14. My third full airliner build so far, and probably the first one that I'd be able to say went together as planned (more or less). The subject depicted is one of Cathay Pacific's B777-300ERs, registration B-KQY, an aircraft which I was on last July, which I snapped a few photos of and later used as references for this build. Anyways, on to the build itself - It was painted with just Tamiya acrylics and Mr. Base White. I used a ratio of 1 part XF-23 to 10 parts X-2 for the underside and engines, 1 part XF-23 to 8 parts X-2 for the stripe (though this turned out to be too dark so I overcoated it with X-2 later on) and 1 part XF-19 to 4 parts X-2 for the wings and engine pylons. For the decals, I printed my own and they were relatively easy to make as I had made them before for a 1/144 build and just had to resize them, change the registration and fix some of the previous issues of the decals (from experience), with some of the decals being used from the Hasegawa kit's ANA decals (which were plentiful and useful). The kit itself is very easy to build and simple as with all Hasegawa airliners; I find that the fit is better than on their B767 and the build went relatively well assembly-wise. Watch out for the fuselage seam and the connection from the wings to the fuselage though - The fuselage seam is difficult to deal with especially because it extends for the length of the entire fuselage, and the plastic slab on the wing that connects with the fuselage isn't enough to guarantee a good dihedral angle and is also weak as a connection point. Take your time to test fit that area, and use strong adhesives so that you can minimize the gap, or fit the wings on early into the build so you can fill in the seams left behind. It's a very easy build, though; I'd recommend it to anyone looking for a quick build or those who want to get into airliners and practice first before moving on to the bigger 1/144 kits. I'd also advise getting some aftermarket decals for the cockpit window or printing your own; The geometry on the Hasegawa clear part is off and so is the window decal provided with the kit. I decided to print my own and size it similarly to the Hasegawa decal which I think looks somewhat better than the kit decal. Now for the image spam: (My lightbox is pretty small, so a lot of the shots had to be highly cropped or have borders visible. Sorry about that) And as a bonus, a few pics I took of the real thing back in June: I definitely don't consider the build perfect (If anything, really, a close look at it reveals a plethora of flaws) - The nose decals distorted weirdly on me and some of the thick decal borders are visible, some of the X-22 used as a gloss coat left an orange peel finish and some of the door decals are off (To recreate the white door borders on Cathay Pacific's planes I adapted the decals that came with the Hasegawa ANA B777-300ER kit I was using and trimmed some of the door decals with white to fit; On others I had to make do with cutting tiny strips of white decals and lining them up on the door). This build was more of a test to see how well I can build a relatively simple airliners and test my abilities before moving on to bigger projects. It's also something nice to look at in the display case of die-casts and snap-fit models. Despite the flaws, I think it worked pretty well somehow..
  15. Thanks for the link - I didn't see it while searching but it had a lot of useful information which I added to the original post. I hope the new title is clear enough now.
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