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About Columbia20713

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  1. Columbia20713

    Looking for references/photographs of a certain Me 262 of KG 51 (9K+LK)

    Thanks for the link - I didn't see it while searching but it had a lot of useful information which I added to the original post. I hope the new title is clear enough now.
  2. I'm going to be building Hobby Boss's 1/48 Me 262 kit - The aircraft I want to model is Werknummer 110836 (I believe), coded 9K+LK and was part of KG 51. So far, I've found conflicting evidence for what the camouflage of this particular aircraft looked like. It's in the standard RLM82/81/76 camouflage, as well as a red tail tip, but I've found some sources that depict the same aircraft while looking... varied. This is what Hobby Boss's instructions have; (I know the label is that of a different aircraft but for some reason, Hobby Boss switched their labels on the sheet) The serial number on that is 110838 instead of 110836 but I'm not sure the latter exists let alone in that scheme. Another profile I saw in a google search, I can't find what the source is though; Almost exactly the same with the HB sheet. Then there's the information and profiles from the "Luftwaffe over Czech Territory" book. These images come from reviews by FalkeEins and Hyperscale, but looking at them shows something different: I don't have the book myself though so I can't see much from the photographs. The camouflage seems to have been oversprayed with a gray-ish color slightly darker than RLM 76, and on the profile the red portion nose seems to be a lot shorter. There are also call-outs for the engine cowlings to be left in metal which are not seen in the Hobby Boss profile. (There also seem to be this thread that indicated that the red tail and nose was only added after capture and that beforehand, the nose and tail were black.) From all this, there isn't much information to go on to model the aircraft. I'm not so sure of what the weathering patterns are supposed to show or what the color sprayed over the fuselage under the "L" on both sides, and the like. If anyone has actual photos of the aircraft (unless it can't be shared, etc.) or any further references and information for it, as well as color call-outs, I would appreciate it. Thanks!
  3. Columbia20713

    All the Hurricane questions you want to ask here

    Does anyone have any pictures of Hurricane serial number P2831, 'LE.K' flown by Dickie Cork of 242 Squadron during the Battle of Britain, or any good references? I want to know if it carried a type A or type B camouflage, and the Xtradecal guide doesn't help as it shows the fuselage in a type A camo but has the diagram of the wings in a type B form. Thanks!
  4. Columbia20713

    Vol 2 All the Spitfire questions here

    I was thinking of modelling it at near the time that it was shot down - Which would be around late August 1940. The photos would be very useful especially as references for weathering and location of serials - Thanks! There seems to be some debate on whether the aircraft that flew with 610 Squadron (and the aircraft which P/O Frank Webster was shot down in) was R6595 or a different aircraft with the same lettering (for example, sn no. X4011), though upon looking at the website of the 610 Squadron as well as some of the interpretations of the ORB during August 1940, R6595 seems to be generally believed by some to be the aircraft that was with 610 Squadron until being shot down on 26 Aug. 1940. Whichever the case is, I'd prefer to model R6595 instead. Thanks for the assistance! The links will be very useful to refer to for the markings. I'll read up on it further.
  5. Columbia20713

    Vol 2 All the Spitfire questions here

    Hi, I'm modelling a Tamiya Spitfire Mk.1 as codename DW-O from 610 squadron. As far as i know, the decals in the Tamiya box depict serial no. L1043, which from photographs either doesn't have a serial or it was removed in the photo. Thing is, that particular spit, L1043, was sent to a training unit before the Battle of Britain hitting a tree in 1941, and as much as possible I'd rather build a subject that took part in the battle itself. Spitfire serial no. R6595, flown by Frank Kinnersley Webster is a subject that I'd prefer to model instead, but with no references as to how that aircraft was painted and with pictures from L1043 existing as the only decent references for how DW-O would look like as R6595, I'm not sure how it should be painted and decalled exactly, especially since some profiles and models I've seen depict a fin flash or presence of an underside roundel on R6595 different from what is seen on L1043. Does anyone know or have any references for what the fin flashes and roundels should look like on R6595 without any photographs of the actual aircraft to go by, other than that of L1043's? Thanks! Sorry if the question seems too obvious or lengthy.
  6. Anyways, the base for the aircraft! A friend of mine gave me a large sheet of sintra board believing it might be useful for a diorama base. It could be airbrushed, sanded and cut, but it's also somewhat bendy. I figured it was the only way out for a base of this size - Plywood would be too heavy and difficult to paint, and Plaster of Paris is too fragile to be casted over such a gigantic area - approx. 20 x 30 in. (Don't ask me how i know..) Based on pictures I took from Hong Kong International, I settled for the base to be at Taxiway H9, South Apron near Terminal 1, next to gate E3 and S102. This was what i later observed to be around the point where Cathay aircraft would taxi to and from after landing, and where some of the gates for Cathay Pacific aircraft are situated, that I had reference photos of. I observed that Cathay Pacific aircraft passing through this taxiway were either being pushed back from their gates, or were taxiing to the nearby RWY 25 L, or taxiing to their gates post-landing. The latter was the only stage which I could represent the B777 in, as it had no doors open or flaps deployed, and it would have been a ridiculously expensive purchase to acquire a 1/144 pushback truck (which is unsurprisingly rare.) (taken from https://extranet.hongkongairport.com/aom/Part L/Plan 1 Aerodrome Layout Plan.pdf) For the reference photos that I took, the tarmac seemed to be a dark grey-ish brown color that had blackened areas where the gates were, probably because of the aircraft. The center was dominated by the usual yellow-black stripe, and it was lined with taxiway indicators in yellow, which I later learned to be indicating the gates adjacent to the taxiway. (One of the photos I took that showed the location; Note that just behind the landing gear are signs that say "E2" and "S103"; Gate designations. In the diagram in the image above, E2 and S103 are parallel.) I'm yet to analyze what those yellow markings on the taxiway have, since they'll have to be part of the base as a whole. But that's for the next post. The progress on the base with the information about it I have has been decent, although the brown may be oversaturated and the weathering overdone. I'm still planning to bring it together by overspraying it with grey before adding the markings. I don't know whether to use custom decals for it or to mark it on Tamiya tape and just mask it on, as the former would be tedious and require a whole new routine of resizing, printing and application, but the latter would look more sloppy. Thanks for reading!
  7. Yeah, that's what I planned to try doing - Also helps when sanding the decal, protects the paint. After the rest of the decals - Doors, swire logo, registrations and stencils came on, I sprayed on a final coat of Alclad Aqua Gloss, and sanded some of the decals down - Although it worked well, it created some tears in the decal, notably around the dark green nose stripe. I then polished up the areas where the gloss was to be seen most (Mostly topside fuselage, etc.) with Novus #2 Polishing Compound. The engines were then cemented on. The wheels were then painstakingly added. Although the rear landing gear clicked without any fuss, the nose gear and their corresponding doors didn't fit all too well, but it did fit although not all too well. Next on the agenda is the tiny parts, and the aircraft's display base (out of sintra board, most possibly).
  8. Recently, I ordered a 1/48 Airfix Hawker Hurricane Mk.1 from an online hobby shop, but due to it not being in stock, they instead sent an Airfix Hurricane Mk.1 Tropical kit. I found that the engineering was in such a way that it was possible to do away with the tropical filter. I did some research and it turns out that the said tropical filter was already included in the BoB Hurricane kit - I figure both have similar if not completely identical set of sprues is in both kits, although that's just a guess. A few questions: Did the Hawker Hurricane Mk. 1/Trop have any major differences from the Mk.1 other than the Vokes filter that are worth taking into account when building the former in the latter form? Can anyone recommend a good BoB Hurricane decal set that can be ordered from Hannants in order to stand in for the decals in the case that it could be built that way Thanks!
  9. Thing is, though, decals would go over them (which are wet) which seem to dissolve the PVA. The suggestion about the decals is indeed what I planned to do from the outset, though it would be hard for the lettering. Thanks for the suggestions, though! After Micro Kristal Klear reacted similarly to the water (fogging up), I glazed the windows with X-22 which was far harder to work with but did dry to a nice shine while not reacting to water or decals, and so I applied the window strip decals from the kit decal sheet. I did not like it as much as I was expecting to, but it was "good enough" as I'll be viewing it from a distance most of the time and so it wouldn't be very visible. I then applied the clear decals I printed out on one side of the model to see how they'd work. While the horror stories I've heard about custom decals (discoloration, ridiculously thick borders, etc.) didn't come into fruition thankfully, the decals, when viewed from certain angles, had a certain degree of thickness visible, especially when viewed at the side. Anyways, I'm soon to apply the rest of the decals then start wrapping up. Thanks for viewing!
  10. Thanks a lot, man! I appreciate the support After wrapping up the engines, I gloss varnished the fuselage and upper wings with Alclad Aqua Gloss in preparation for the decals. Speaking of which, turns out that water can play havoc with PVA glue (Elmer's Glue-All) glazing, and since Aqua Gloss is, well, water-based, I tested it on an area of the fuselage and, indeed, it dissolved the glazing. And so I removed the glazing before glossing it over and ordered a batch of Micro Kristal Klear which should arrive by tomorrow. The description claims its waterproof once dry, and so I'm hoping it wouldn't dissolve in the way the PVA did. I then (carefully!) polished up some of the dull areas with Novus #2 and #1. And then I applied the decal for the windshield (which I sprayed black, deciding the clear part didn't look so good), then the dark blue-green stripe at the nose. Since it was printed on white decal paper, the edges were visible, most notably around the point where the two decals for the stripe met and the borders. Given that the only other option is to invest in a relatively expensive decal sheet, though, I decided to live with it. Next, the tail decals came on, as well as the wing decals, which came from the kit decal sheet. (You may notice a faint white edge between the end of the Cathay brushmark logo and the rest of the tail.. The white of the decal paper and the pale-ish white of the tail contrast, quite visibly. I'm considering stripping it and applying another decal but printed on the clear decal paper instead.) And so here is how it looks as of now. The Micro Kristal Klear should arrive by tomorrow, and I could hopefully start glazing the windows by then. Thanks for reading!
  11. Columbia20713

    Tamiya alternative for Boeing Gray?

    Hmm, I never tried that before - I always thought it would dry too dark, but looking at your pictures, I'm reconsidering. I'll check it out. Great build, by the way! Strange, I have a bottle of Mr. Surfacer 1000 myself and it dried far darker than what seemed to be a decent match for Boeing Gray. You might have used the darker grey shade for Tamiya Primer - They offer two shades of gray for their primer. I did manage to try out a mix of Tamiya acrylics to recreate the color - An extremely rough ratio of 4 parts XF-2 to 1 part XF-19. Do note that it was mixed by eye and I didn't have any color shade at hand other than reference photos of what Boeing Gray was on a B777, and I lightened/darkened the color as I saw fit. I'll post some pictures of what the rough mix looked like when painted once I manage to snap some photos of the build.
  12. I haven't updated this WIP in a long time since the project slowed down and nearly stopped. Real life and some ridiculously boneheaded mistakes took a toll on the project, and for a second I considered turning it into a crude diorama of Emirates 521's wreck, and purchasing a second one to properly build, learning from the mistakes of this build - My first airliner build thus far. But since the purchase was expensive and I'm too far into it to stop now (3 and a half months), I decided to push through with completing it.. Here's how it looks as of now. After having filled the fuselage seam, I primed with Tamiya Liquid Primer (White) and used it as the paint for the white portion of the Cathay fuselage. The primer kept causing trouble in the course of the build, though - I wouldn't use it unless I really had to ever again other than when filling gaps, as it was scratching off weeks after painting.. Maybe I should've invested in the spray can form of it. The underside was sprayed with a mix of XF-2: 7 to XF-23: 1, and the cheatline was sprayed with a mix of XF-2: 4 to XF-23: 1. The Boeing Gray, on the other hand, I mixed by eye, starting from XF-2: 4 to XF-19: 1 and lightening or darkening as I saw fit. And.. In the assembly process I ended up committing a few boneheaded mistakes. The one that irritates me the most until now is.. the engines. The build process indicates that two sets of blades would be attached onto each other like so: Thing is, when I masked and painted the first set of blades, they.. went missing to who knows where. I only managed to find one of them, and it was mangled and half the blades were gone. The other set is still missing. Either way, I decided that I'd have to make a compromise. The mangled pair's remaining blades would be taken out so that only the spinner remains, and then this part would be duplicated using epoxy putty for the second engine. The original spinner would be attached to one of the remaining pairs, then the duplicate would be attached to the second pair. The tradeoff was.. well.. The GE90s are missing half of its actual blades. Live and learn.. By this point, the next thing on the agenda is to glaze the windows and apply major decals. Thing is, the clear decal sheet I ordered behaved like it was the white variety of decal paper. This didn't present a problem with the tail as the white border blended in relatively well, but for the logos on the cheatline such as the "Cathay Pacific" title and the registration under the wing, it is one, as the color under it is a light blue. I guessed that the company may have had a mistake with shipping because the decal paper otherwise had no problems and behaved exactly like the white decals I tested during the start of the build, and so I'll order another set. If that doesn't work out.. I might end up purchasing the expensive 26decals Cathay Pacific B777 set. To spend that much on my first actual airliner build, though.. For glazing, my main option is PVA glue but it dries concave and to a somewhat concave matt clear finish. Humbrol Clearfix is near impossible to locate where I live, though my LHS sells Micro Kristal Klear, although for a somewhat high price (At least for something that doesn't exactly have that many uses). Is it a very particularly good of a material for gluing canopies and glazing windows, or is it just a duplicate of what PVA/Elmers can do? Thanks for reading!
  13. Columbia20713

    Tamiya alternative for Boeing Gray?

    Thank you! It's lovely indeed, quite detailed but not overly complex. Actually, the scheme I'm working on is Cathay Pacific; Though, given that the Philippines is my homeland I was very close to modelling one in that livery! I'll try that - It's not as if the color is simple enough to simply fully match to one shade, so anything that's very slightly off can be dismissed as fading or weathering. Thanks! Hmm, I could see if Testor's 1138 has a Tamiya equivalent and use those ratios for mixing. I'll keep those for future reference - Thanks!
  14. Columbia20713

    Tamiya alternative for Boeing Gray?

    Hello, all! I'm working on Revell's Boeing B777-300ER, and upon research, the most appropriate color for the wings would be what is known as "Boeing Gray". It comes in X301 for XtraColor Enamels, and Canadian Voodoo Grey for Model Master paints - Except where I live there aren't any local suppliers of both paints. The only really widespread alternative is Tamiya, and their color range is highly limited. Does anyone know any mixing formula for Tamiya acrylics to match said color, or any Tamiya colors in spray can form? Thanks in advance!
  15. Masking wasn't actually as bad as I thought it would be - I managed to complete it in two days. Think it turned out alright though. The BB8 scheme is really one of the kind.. and one that seems pretty difficult. It'll be a great challenge that certainly shows when it comes out the other side! Thank you! Sorry for the lack of recent posts, a 1/48 Bf 109 G-6 has been occupying my bench as well, and the repetitive process of filling and sanding the fuselage can take a toll on my enthusiasm. For the rest of the time I had I started working on the engines. This is where they stand; I need to recoat the right cowling with a lighter color. And as the filling and sanding of gaps starts to wrap up, I started to fill in the windows in which B-KPK (The aircraft I'm replicating) didn't have - It's much harder without a styrene strip or anything backing it, which I should have had the foresight to add before sealing the fuselage, but.. didn't.