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  1. Thanks for the comments guys! I wish lol, modelling a damaged nose would be far beyond my modelling skills. It's somewhat unfortunate that the mistake about the vents still occurs, but to be fair, having exhaust pass around the vents instead of from inside is a somewhat subtle distinction that can easily be missed. The metallic was Mr. Hobby Super Metallic SM206 Super Chrome. In hindsight, the anti-glare is a little too brown, I agree. I was trying to go for what some of the color photos from the time show olive drab to be, like on this B-17F. I couldn't find much of a consensus or proper conversion for B-17 antiglare olive drab colors either so I picked the closest Tamiya paint I had on hand. In my eyes, I kind of preferred a more brown hue for aesthetic purposes. It certainly could have been more green though.
  2. The Boeing B-17 Flying Fortress is a four-engined heavy bomber developed for the US Army Air Force. It took part in numerous roles, by far the most famous of which is the Allied strategic bombing campaigns in World War II over Europe. It excelled in this role and went on to be one of the most iconic US bombers of all time and one of the most produced, with 12,731 examples being made. This example is "Hell's Angel", a B-17G-45-BO that operated with the 535th Bomb Squadron. It was particularly infamous for a tragic incident during a bombing run over Cologne, during which 110 lb bombs dropping from a B-17 flying overhead struck the nose of "Hell's Angel", destroying the nose and killing the bombardier. This example is of Revell's 1/72 B-17G kit (Promodeller boxing). Decals came from the Academy boxing, and this was painted with Mr. Hobby Super Metallics. The Revell kit in itself is, in my opinion, a pretty great kit. People smarter than me have already done the measurements and rivet counting regarding the inaccuracies of this particular kit, and it is generally regarded as being slightly behind the Airfix offering in terms of accuracy and proportionality. With that being said, I had a surprisingly good time building it. The parts fit together just fine, the interior is detailed and the whole kit can be expected to go together easily. Things to watch for in terms of assembly would include extremely thick sprue gating that makes it difficult to trim fragile parts, difficult assembly with parts such as the landing gear and cowlings, and instructions that are hard to follow. The kit also has extremely thick clear parts - particularly pronounced in the clear nose - and panel lines that are too deep for the scale. Overall, it's definitely a great kit and if you can get past some of the errors, it builds up really well. Definitely one of my better build experiences. Thanks for reading!
  3. Thanks for the comments everyone! Definitely, life's too short for stubborn kits like that one lol. Oh yeah, I didn't really mention it specifically but the wing panels and the duller parts of the aluminum were painted with Tamiya LP-11. Good stuff though it went down a lot more matte than I wanted it to. A few small parts that needed separate painting and attachment such as the landing gear doors and antennae were also painted with Alclad White Aluminum to avoid the issues with the fragile Hi-Shine shades. Yes, I would be amiss if I didn't mention that the subject itself isn't an easy one to sit comfortably with depicting. The B-29's certainly a beautiful aircraft, but with it comes a tragic and dark history behind what it was for.
  4. I started this build back in July but only completed it a couple of days ago, as my first finished build for 2021. This is from Academy's Silverplate boxing of their 1/72 B-29 kit. The subject is built up in the colors of the infamous "Enola Gay". Painted with Alclad Airframe Aluminum, Aqua Gloss, Tamiya acrylic and lacquer paints and primers from Gunze. To be honest, this was by no means an easy or smooth build. I hadn't attempted an NMF finish on this scale before, and in this case it turned out to look a little more dull than I wanted to as a result of the overcoat of gloss to seal the paint. Some of the parts look more sloppily painted or weathered than I'd have liked, and I ran into a lot of problems during the build especially with assembly and fit. Some of the decals also silvered on me, which was something I wasn't expecting from Cartograf of all decal makers. The kit itself leaves a lot to be desired compared to what we have today, which to me is surprising given how well it scored in reviews. To be frank, building the kit felt like building something that Academy didn't try all that hard with. The kit goes together in a way that doesn't seem to be thought out very well which results in a lot of fiddling and build problems that in themselves don't ruin the kit but make it feel sloppy. This combined with parts that only vaguely fit and ejector pin marks and seams on very prominent parts among others make building kit a bit of a slog in my opinion. I know some modelers like this challenge which is perfectly fine, but I wasn't all that prepared to experience these build issues and it really took away from the overall experience. Since this kit is the only good option for a 72nd B-29, I suppose it's all about knowing what you might be in for. It does build up to look like a massive shiny display piece in the end. Thanks for viewing!
  5. Thank you everyone for the kind comments! I really appreciate it. Thanks! Unfortunately not for Cathay. It's a shame, I always thought the hairdryer A340s looked particularly good.
  6. Unfortunately I wasn't able to update this thread much after that last update, but I finished this build relatively quickly. You can see the Ready For Inspection post here:
  7. I'm not sure if this can fall under the category of scale modelling in the forum since technically this wasn't built from a kit, but I figure it uses the same subset of skills to do. The Airbus A330-300 is a twin-aisle airliner designed and built by Airbus. Having first flown in 1992 and developed in parallel with the longer-range Airbus A340, the A330 is a prominent aircraft model in the widebody short-to-long-haul market, and has recently been updated with a successor model, the A330neo. This model depicts an A330-300 of Cathay Pacific Airways, registration B-HLV, in the older Brushwing livery. It's a snap-fit model by Hogan Wings in 1/200 that used to be in the livery of Saudi Arabian Airlines. Here are the photos: For comparison, here's a Before/After: I detailed some of the processes in making it in the thread here, although I wasn't really able to update it all the way through: This was painted with mostly Tamiya acrylics and MRP lacquers, with Alclad Aqua gloss being the final clearcoat. I designed the decals myself although some of them came from images of decals available online. Various modifications were made like the corrected tail fairing and added antennas and domes. I decided to keep the weathering very light this time around because in my experience it's very easy to overdo it in 1/200 scale. In terms of this kind of restripping work the model itself made the work very straightforward and easy. The breakdown of parts meant that I could easily paint components separately and leave fragile parts off until the end of the build, much like with actual model kits. And because the model is for the most part pre-built and designed to have a snug fit rather than needing glue, there was little to no body work or sanding and filling involved. The most difficult part of the project was mostly the painstaking work involved with sizing and optimizing the decals over and over again to make sure it fit on this specific model, and so I would definitely recommend this kind of work as an in-between in scale model kit assembly and buying a pre-made kit model, and the possibilities are many with the large quantity of available snap-fit models in 1/200 scale. Although not as finely detailed as injection-molded scale model kits, the detail is sufficient in my opinion to fit in a collection of Hasegawa kits, for example. And with the relative rarity of cheap A330 kits available, Hogan Wings' plastic snap-fits are a very reasonable compromise. And another interesting detail to note with Hogan Wings models in particular is that parts are included to display the model with the wheels up or with landing gear. This means that they can be left off from the model until the end of the build or entirely and it makes painting a lot easier. Thanks for reading!
  8. Since the last post I've made quite a bit of progress. I masked off the corresponding fuselage stripes for the livery and sprayed the two blue colors used on the fuselage: By the way, on the center stripe the mix sprayed was 1 part XF-18 to 10 parts XF-2. This turned out way too dark, so I had to overspray it with white. Somehow on every occasion that I try to make mixes for that center stripe, I've always had it end up darker than I want it to be. I then applied the decals. I also took this chance to attach the fragile bits, cut out from plasticard. I knocked them off the model quite a few times though, and I may end up knocking them off even more. There isn't really a way to work around it because gluing something to it when it's all said and done and the gloss coat is on may damage the finish. Also, the wings at this point should be ready for decals, however I ran into an issue where lacquer thinner that spilled damaged the paint finish on one of the wings. I sprayed over it with the closest metallic I could find, Tamiya LP-11, but it still looks very out-of-place. I tried to polish it but I ended up scratching the oversprayed finish making it worse. I might respray this but this time around make it a hard-edged surface and try to make it look more natural, but I'm still thinking about what to do about this. For now though, the rest of the build is going smoothly in a rough sense of the word.
  9. In the past few days, I primed the fuselage with two overall coats, sanding in between. Afterwards, I sprayed the fuselage with MRP Flat White, which left a pretty durable and smooth surface after painting. I didn't expect to use so much of the bottle from spraying the fuselage though. This isn't my most in-focus picture, but it should work. I'll be masking off the fuselage stripe for painting, and I still have to find a better color combo for the center fuselage stripe in the old CX colors, as I feel like my current mix is a tad too dark. Masking will also be a bit of a chore with few reference points for guiding the masking lines, and most of it will just be guesswork and eyeballing it.
  10. After sanding off the seams and old paint, I masked and painted up the engines in a mix I already had of the lighter CX gray; I then modelled and 3D printed the new tail fairings based on online references and superglued them onto the model. Afterwards, the gaps were filled in with epoxy putty and then covered with other putties to help eliminate the layer lines. I'll leave them to dry and sand them off later on. The fairings look too large compared to what you see in real A330s but I'm hoping some of the sanding later on can correct that a little.
  11. Thanks! Hogan is an airline model brand that's more popular with model collectors rather than builders, so that wouldn't be surprising. Before priming the fuselage I want to focus first on adding the prominent features of the A330 that aren't included on the kit that I can modify or scratchbuild. Firstly, the A330 has this dome on top of the fuselage along with other antennae that the manufacturer didn't include. I'm not sure what it's called, but I assume it's similar to the domes on other airliners for satellite communication or Wi-Fi connection aboard. It's very visible in the image here: I gathered my references and made a simple model in Sketchup of the dome and imported it in Cura for 3D printing. This was scaled to size afterwards. Now, the 3D printer I have is an FDM printer meaning for the most part it can never come close to detail that's as good as those on scale model kits, which is why I plan to smooth it over with epoxy afterwards. But my aim was to get something that I can easily control the proportions and shape of much more so than scratchbuilding it with Milliput, and I think the result is alright. I also decided to test the fit of the decals I designed by printing them on a spare of defective decal paper. It has an issue where it shrinks over the span of months and this has ruined many of my past models, but I already had the paper lying around so they were perfect for this purpose, and I can solve any issues before committing with the expensive stuff. Also, I needed a guideline for the cheatlines as this kit doesn't have any panel lines or surface features to go by when masking, so I lightly scribed lines around where the cheatline should be. I think the decals fit pretty well at this point, and for something that's homemade, I'll take it. My next issue to deal with would be the actuator fairings on the tail, visible on the image above, which are the smaller kind, which are on the earlier production A330s. Cathay Pacific had some A330s with the earlier fairing, but B-HLV isn't one of them; My issue now will have to do with finding accurate shape profiles of the new actuator fairing, which should be easy given the abundance of photos of the area, and scratchbuilding them onto the aircraft.
  12. I feel like this skirts the definition of scale modelling that this forum pertains to, but I suppose this project uses many of the same skills involved. Please delete or move if this doesn't belong here. I've had an itch to build a 1/144 A330 for a while, but given the high price and shipping of the Authentic Airliners A330, and the rarity of the Revell kit, I decided to just repaint one into the colors I wanted. This is the Hogan 1/200 Saudia A330-300 that I'll be repainting into the old Cathay Pacific colors with registration B-HLV. Hogan provides a relatively detailed model to start with, and the snap-fit nature of it means that it's easy to work on different components separately. This is what the model looked like before stripping: In the time before the physical work of stripping and repainting started, I went to work on the decals for the model, all of which will be printed at home. After sizing and resizing over and over to fit the model, the decals were all finished recently, probably the most difficult aspect of the entire job: (It's low-res because this was just a screenshot off of Photoshop) And the fuselage and tail were recently stripped completely of paint after a decal test that ensured all of them lined up: I think the rest of this half-build will blow by fast. I've been thinking of adding the antennas and other detail along the top of the fuselage, but the issue would be where to get the measurements for those. I'm not sure if those modifications are worth making in 1/200, to be honest.
  13. This vessel doesn't need an introduction, but I'll write one anyway: The R.M.S Titanic was a British ocean liner, one of three Olympic-class ships and the largest ship in gross tonnage at the time. During her maiden voyage from Southampton to New York she struck an iceberg at the North Atlantic and sank in just under three hours, resulting in the death of 1,496 of the 2,208 passengers and crew. This was the event that immortalized her name in history. This is Academy's non-premium version of the model, meaning that it only came with the model itself; It didn't have any of the extras that came with the other boxings of the kit such as photoetch or wood decks. Other aftermarket used was Eduard's photoetch set and Master's Olympic-class brass mast set. Other corrections or additions were either scratchbuilt or 3D printed. Here are the photos, before I get into the details of the kit (This is going to be bandwidth-heavy): This is the single longest (8 months) project and largest, most difficult build I've done and it definitely tested my limits as a scale modeller. Being that I usually do aircraft I had to learn multiple skills on the spot to get this model across the finish line. The materials and tools used are fairly straightforward; All of the paints on the model except the white (MRP), anti-fouling red (Mix of (XF-2:2/XF-7:1) and some of the thinner brown parts (light brown marker) were painted with Tamiya acrylics. If I were to revisit this build I'd probably lighten the mix of anti-fouling red and use a much lighter color for the wooden decks and the dark mast color, though. The rigging came from Infini's Super Fine Black Lycra rigging (40 denier), but for the Marconi array that connects the masts I decided to experiment by heating the black PLA filament I use for my 3D printer and pulling it, like stretched sprue. The material behaves like it as well, but is tougher and sags much more consistently than sprue (although more brittle). I used this on the model but the sag disappeared when I attached the lines attaching it to the boat deck and those lycra lines pulled it taut. I would definitely recommend trying it out if you have some PLA to spare at home for rigging that has to droop. As for the quality of the kit, well, of the large scale kits of Titanic the Academy's probably the best one for beginners, but that doesn't say much given that its competitors are a kit released in 1976 and a monster that's twice the size. The way it goes together is relatively straightforward if tedious, but the instructions frequently make it difficult to be sure on anything or to figure out how some parts are supposed to be placed, something that's crucial when there are up to 20 copies of the same ventilator, pipe or crane. The fit isn't great either, especially with the decks and superstructure. It's also highly inconsistent in this regard; sometimes a part will fit just as it's supposed to, and on other times it has to be wrestled in to place. The worst part came when it came to the forward "wall" of the superstructure; This is the part where the bridge windows are located. The gap is inconsistent on each side and I had to use a lot of plastic card shims to get it in place properly, and even then some of the seams are still slightly visible. The inaccuracies on this kit can get annoying as well, so much so that I can't really go into too much detail listing all of them unless I want to make this much longer than it already is. Any builder of the Titanic could uncover many of them through just checking surface-level photos and references and correct accordingly, but I suppose the most important corrections to make are adding a set of missing emergency "cutter" lifeboats (the ones that are opened and hang over the ship), and the lack of C-Deck openings under the forecastle and poop deck. I implemented as many of these as I could but there are some that I had to leave in. For all the inaccuracies, it builds up to a nice looking model in the end, however, and the kit still stands up to what other companies have to offer and is superior to the Revell kit in the same scale. There are many things in the build I know I could have done better in or rushed too much in; but after many months of work I'm just satisfied to call it done for now. Maybe I'll be able to build something closer to the real thing in the future. Thanks for reading!
  14. Of course not! I have no plans of getting discouraged just because of those comments. I agree too, I've seen more than a fair share of extremely supportive people in this community that make it worthwhile! Thanks again guys! Thank you! I know what you mean, the Philippine Airlines and Cathay A350s that now fill our terminals over here feel like a distant reminder of the A340s and B747s that used to be in their place that are now long gone..
  15. Woah, I wake up one morning and all of a sudden there's this much of an outpour of support and posts.. Thanks a lot, guys!! I appreciate the words and support. Criticism is criticism I suppose. It's not so useful with that kind of tone, though.
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