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About Columbia20713

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  1. Thanks for the compliments, guys! Yes, I also tried to shorten the nose gear but the odd nose-up stance is still there. Maybe a little more would've worked to correct it.
  2. This plane doesn't really need an introduction.. But I'll make one anyway. For those of you who don't know what it is; Have you been living under a rock? The Aerospatiale-BAC Concorde was one of the first and only supersonic passenger airliners to enter service. Its design was unique, graceful and miles ahead of any of its contemporaries and up until now, no airliner has been able to surpass it. The aircraft's economic future was short-lived, though; In the end, only Air France and British Airways ordered it, paid almost entirely for by their respective governments due to low demand, rising fuel costs and high fuel and maintenance expenses. It was retired in 2003 after its only crash in Paris as well as the commercial aviation industry plummeting after the attacks of September 11, 2001. The kit is Revell's 2005 tooling of the Concorde with BA's Chatham livery, depicting G-BOAG in the 5-degree nose-down takeoff position. So, before anything else, here are the pics! The model was painted with Base White 1000 for the white basecoat and the gloss coat was Tamiya X-22 with Mr. Levelling Thinner. The metallic parts of the engines were painted with Alclad II Airframe Aluminum under XF-1 + X-22. The rest of the aircraft and the smaller components were either painted with Tamiya acrylics or Alclad II White Aluminum. Now, about the kit.. Hoooo boy, where to start? I'll probably end up writing this like it was it's own review. The first thing you notice about the kit is that it has very few parts - Only around 60 if I remember right - but for such a simple kit, it's also a major pain in the behind to assemble overall. Because of the age of the mold, expect to be trimming off sheets of flash as well. The fit of the fuselage components is fine, but the wing components are especially difficult. The way it's engineered, the entire underside of the wings + undercarriage and bottom half of the fuselage are to be fitted in one piece, but the assembly's so flimsy that it's difficult to keep all of it glued to whatever fuselage supports there are without buckets of cement or CA. This also affects the way that the upper half of the wings fits together. The whole assembly is so flimsy that it bends too easily. In the end, the seam that connects the bottom half and upper half of the wing were impossible for me to eliminate as they just kept cracking and reopening every time I put putty over it and sanded. It would be advisable to stuff some plastic card or CA and talcum powder in there so that it has some structural support. The engines were also tedious to fit together but it was possible to get a flush fit if you test fitted and sanded ad nauseam. Some of the components fit well and others simply didn't. Be careful to test fit everything and you should be able to proceed with the rest of the build somewhat more smoothly. The decals are printed by Cartograf and as a result are quite nice to work with. The adhesive isn't too strong, which on one hand means that they're easy to work with and don't get stuck the moment they're applied. On the other it also means that they're somewhat more prone to being shuffled around when you don't want them to and peeling off. For an airliner kit a lot of stencils are provided which is nice although they might seem too many for some. Check reference photos of the particular aircraft you're modelling. Some of the stencils seemed to be in wrong places in the instructions or not existent at all, especially in the engines. As mentioned in other reviews, the nose gear is too long and should be trimmed a few mm. I did this on my build but found it wasn't enough as the model still had an excessive nose-up position. The nose visor and windscreen is also wrong - The model depicts it as flat but it should be angled. I scratchbuilt this by bending a piece of plasticard and with a bunch of epoxy putty, and printed my own decals for the cockpit windscreens. Worked out pretty well, I think. The main gears need careful alignment because otherwise it doesn't fit on all fours. It doesn't show all that much on the photos, though. Closing in on a long wall of text, I certainly made more than a few mistakes during the build, but despite the difficulty I'm rather content with how it turned out. Thanks for somehow reading until this point, and any feedback would be appreciated!
  3. Thanks for the comments! IMO even though 1/200 might seem limited in detail, I think it's great especially given how unwieldy 1/144 can get if your space is limited, and they make for a very relaxing change making it easier to turn out a good model. It's also a good canvas for testing out new techniques and practicing before moving on to more expensive airliner kits. If you do get around to building that Cathay B777, I'd be interested in seeing it posted!
  4. Thank you! The triple-seven's one of my favorites also. One of the most graceful looking airliners in the sky that are still flying in my opinion.
  5. Added a few new images to the title thread as well as some opinions on the kit itself to the original thread.
  6. My third full airliner build so far, and probably the first one that I'd be able to say went together as planned (more or less). The subject depicted is one of Cathay Pacific's B777-300ERs, registration B-KQY, an aircraft which I was on last July, which I snapped a few photos of and later used as references for this build. Anyways, on to the build itself - It was painted with just Tamiya acrylics and Mr. Base White. I used a ratio of 1 part XF-23 to 10 parts X-2 for the underside and engines, 1 part XF-23 to 8 parts X-2 for the stripe (though this turned out to be too dark so I overcoated it with X-2 later on) and 1 part XF-19 to 4 parts X-2 for the wings and engine pylons. For the decals, I printed my own and they were relatively easy to make as I had made them before for a 1/144 build and just had to resize them, change the registration and fix some of the previous issues of the decals (from experience), with some of the decals being used from the Hasegawa kit's ANA decals (which were plentiful and useful). The kit itself is very easy to build and simple as with all Hasegawa airliners; I find that the fit is better than on their B767 and the build went relatively well assembly-wise. Watch out for the fuselage seam and the connection from the wings to the fuselage though - The fuselage seam is difficult to deal with especially because it extends for the length of the entire fuselage, and the plastic slab on the wing that connects with the fuselage isn't enough to guarantee a good dihedral angle and is also weak as a connection point. Take your time to test fit that area, and use strong adhesives so that you can minimize the gap, or fit the wings on early into the build so you can fill in the seams left behind. It's a very easy build, though; I'd recommend it to anyone looking for a quick build or those who want to get into airliners and practice first before moving on to the bigger 1/144 kits. I'd also advise getting some aftermarket decals for the cockpit window or printing your own; The geometry on the Hasegawa clear part is off and so is the window decal provided with the kit. I decided to print my own and size it similarly to the Hasegawa decal which I think looks somewhat better than the kit decal. Now for the image spam: (My lightbox is pretty small, so a lot of the shots had to be highly cropped or have borders visible. Sorry about that) And as a bonus, a few pics I took of the real thing back in June: I definitely don't consider the build perfect (If anything, really, a close look at it reveals a plethora of flaws) - The nose decals distorted weirdly on me and some of the thick decal borders are visible, some of the X-22 used as a gloss coat left an orange peel finish and some of the door decals are off (To recreate the white door borders on Cathay Pacific's planes I adapted the decals that came with the Hasegawa ANA B777-300ER kit I was using and trimmed some of the door decals with white to fit; On others I had to make do with cutting tiny strips of white decals and lining them up on the door). This build was more of a test to see how well I can build a relatively simple airliners and test my abilities before moving on to bigger projects. It's also something nice to look at in the display case of die-casts and snap-fit models. Despite the flaws, I think it worked pretty well somehow..
  7. Columbia20713

    Looking for references/photographs of a certain Me 262 of KG 51 (9K+LK)

    Thanks for the link - I didn't see it while searching but it had a lot of useful information which I added to the original post. I hope the new title is clear enough now.
  8. I'm going to be building Hobby Boss's 1/48 Me 262 kit - The aircraft I want to model is Werknummer 110836 (I believe), coded 9K+LK and was part of KG 51. So far, I've found conflicting evidence for what the camouflage of this particular aircraft looked like. It's in the standard RLM82/81/76 camouflage, as well as a red tail tip, but I've found some sources that depict the same aircraft while looking... varied. This is what Hobby Boss's instructions have; (I know the label is that of a different aircraft but for some reason, Hobby Boss switched their labels on the sheet) The serial number on that is 110838 instead of 110836 but I'm not sure the latter exists let alone in that scheme. Another profile I saw in a google search, I can't find what the source is though; Almost exactly the same with the HB sheet. Then there's the information and profiles from the "Luftwaffe over Czech Territory" book. These images come from reviews by FalkeEins and Hyperscale, but looking at them shows something different: I don't have the book myself though so I can't see much from the photographs. The camouflage seems to have been oversprayed with a gray-ish color slightly darker than RLM 76, and on the profile the red portion nose seems to be a lot shorter. There are also call-outs for the engine cowlings to be left in metal which are not seen in the Hobby Boss profile. (There also seem to be this thread that indicated that the red tail and nose was only added after capture and that beforehand, the nose and tail were black.) From all this, there isn't much information to go on to model the aircraft. I'm not so sure of what the weathering patterns are supposed to show or what the color sprayed over the fuselage under the "L" on both sides, and the like. If anyone has actual photos of the aircraft (unless it can't be shared, etc.) or any further references and information for it, as well as color call-outs, I would appreciate it. Thanks!
  9. Columbia20713

    All the Hurricane questions you want to ask here

    Does anyone have any pictures of Hurricane serial number P2831, 'LE.K' flown by Dickie Cork of 242 Squadron during the Battle of Britain, or any good references? I want to know if it carried a type A or type B camouflage, and the Xtradecal guide doesn't help as it shows the fuselage in a type A camo but has the diagram of the wings in a type B form. Thanks!
  10. Columbia20713

    Vol 2 All the Spitfire questions here

    I was thinking of modelling it at near the time that it was shot down - Which would be around late August 1940. The photos would be very useful especially as references for weathering and location of serials - Thanks! There seems to be some debate on whether the aircraft that flew with 610 Squadron (and the aircraft which P/O Frank Webster was shot down in) was R6595 or a different aircraft with the same lettering (for example, sn no. X4011), though upon looking at the website of the 610 Squadron as well as some of the interpretations of the ORB during August 1940, R6595 seems to be generally believed by some to be the aircraft that was with 610 Squadron until being shot down on 26 Aug. 1940. Whichever the case is, I'd prefer to model R6595 instead. Thanks for the assistance! The links will be very useful to refer to for the markings. I'll read up on it further.
  11. Columbia20713

    Vol 2 All the Spitfire questions here

    Hi, I'm modelling a Tamiya Spitfire Mk.1 as codename DW-O from 610 squadron. As far as i know, the decals in the Tamiya box depict serial no. L1043, which from photographs either doesn't have a serial or it was removed in the photo. Thing is, that particular spit, L1043, was sent to a training unit before the Battle of Britain hitting a tree in 1941, and as much as possible I'd rather build a subject that took part in the battle itself. Spitfire serial no. R6595, flown by Frank Kinnersley Webster is a subject that I'd prefer to model instead, but with no references as to how that aircraft was painted and with pictures from L1043 existing as the only decent references for how DW-O would look like as R6595, I'm not sure how it should be painted and decalled exactly, especially since some profiles and models I've seen depict a fin flash or presence of an underside roundel on R6595 different from what is seen on L1043. Does anyone know or have any references for what the fin flashes and roundels should look like on R6595 without any photographs of the actual aircraft to go by, other than that of L1043's? Thanks! Sorry if the question seems too obvious or lengthy.
  12. Anyways, the base for the aircraft! A friend of mine gave me a large sheet of sintra board believing it might be useful for a diorama base. It could be airbrushed, sanded and cut, but it's also somewhat bendy. I figured it was the only way out for a base of this size - Plywood would be too heavy and difficult to paint, and Plaster of Paris is too fragile to be casted over such a gigantic area - approx. 20 x 30 in. (Don't ask me how i know..) Based on pictures I took from Hong Kong International, I settled for the base to be at Taxiway H9, South Apron near Terminal 1, next to gate E3 and S102. This was what i later observed to be around the point where Cathay aircraft would taxi to and from after landing, and where some of the gates for Cathay Pacific aircraft are situated, that I had reference photos of. I observed that Cathay Pacific aircraft passing through this taxiway were either being pushed back from their gates, or were taxiing to the nearby RWY 25 L, or taxiing to their gates post-landing. The latter was the only stage which I could represent the B777 in, as it had no doors open or flaps deployed, and it would have been a ridiculously expensive purchase to acquire a 1/144 pushback truck (which is unsurprisingly rare.) (taken from https://extranet.hongkongairport.com/aom/Part L/Plan 1 Aerodrome Layout Plan.pdf) For the reference photos that I took, the tarmac seemed to be a dark grey-ish brown color that had blackened areas where the gates were, probably because of the aircraft. The center was dominated by the usual yellow-black stripe, and it was lined with taxiway indicators in yellow, which I later learned to be indicating the gates adjacent to the taxiway. (One of the photos I took that showed the location; Note that just behind the landing gear are signs that say "E2" and "S103"; Gate designations. In the diagram in the image above, E2 and S103 are parallel.) I'm yet to analyze what those yellow markings on the taxiway have, since they'll have to be part of the base as a whole. But that's for the next post. The progress on the base with the information about it I have has been decent, although the brown may be oversaturated and the weathering overdone. I'm still planning to bring it together by overspraying it with grey before adding the markings. I don't know whether to use custom decals for it or to mark it on Tamiya tape and just mask it on, as the former would be tedious and require a whole new routine of resizing, printing and application, but the latter would look more sloppy. Thanks for reading!
  13. Yeah, that's what I planned to try doing - Also helps when sanding the decal, protects the paint. After the rest of the decals - Doors, swire logo, registrations and stencils came on, I sprayed on a final coat of Alclad Aqua Gloss, and sanded some of the decals down - Although it worked well, it created some tears in the decal, notably around the dark green nose stripe. I then polished up the areas where the gloss was to be seen most (Mostly topside fuselage, etc.) with Novus #2 Polishing Compound. The engines were then cemented on. The wheels were then painstakingly added. Although the rear landing gear clicked without any fuss, the nose gear and their corresponding doors didn't fit all too well, but it did fit although not all too well. Next on the agenda is the tiny parts, and the aircraft's display base (out of sintra board, most possibly).
  14. Recently, I ordered a 1/48 Airfix Hawker Hurricane Mk.1 from an online hobby shop, but due to it not being in stock, they instead sent an Airfix Hurricane Mk.1 Tropical kit. I found that the engineering was in such a way that it was possible to do away with the tropical filter. I did some research and it turns out that the said tropical filter was already included in the BoB Hurricane kit - I figure both have similar if not completely identical set of sprues is in both kits, although that's just a guess. A few questions: Did the Hawker Hurricane Mk. 1/Trop have any major differences from the Mk.1 other than the Vokes filter that are worth taking into account when building the former in the latter form? Can anyone recommend a good BoB Hurricane decal set that can be ordered from Hannants in order to stand in for the decals in the case that it could be built that way Thanks!
  15. Thing is, though, decals would go over them (which are wet) which seem to dissolve the PVA. The suggestion about the decals is indeed what I planned to do from the outset, though it would be hard for the lettering. Thanks for the suggestions, though! After Micro Kristal Klear reacted similarly to the water (fogging up), I glazed the windows with X-22 which was far harder to work with but did dry to a nice shine while not reacting to water or decals, and so I applied the window strip decals from the kit decal sheet. I did not like it as much as I was expecting to, but it was "good enough" as I'll be viewing it from a distance most of the time and so it wouldn't be very visible. I then applied the clear decals I printed out on one side of the model to see how they'd work. While the horror stories I've heard about custom decals (discoloration, ridiculously thick borders, etc.) didn't come into fruition thankfully, the decals, when viewed from certain angles, had a certain degree of thickness visible, especially when viewed at the side. Anyways, I'm soon to apply the rest of the decals then start wrapping up. Thanks for viewing!