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Rob K.

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  1. Good to see, I had another go after a bad fitting small top nose window on my b-17. Used the packing tape, but couldn’t get the adhesive of with the goo remover. Than had another go and this time using the glossy non adhesive side to hold the glue in place (small patch held by Tamiya tape). Result: Clear as day up to the point where it is difficult to see if there is a window at all from some angles Amazing work on the Beaufort by the way. Will follow this.
  2. Good to see, I had another go after a bad fitting small top nose window on my b-17. Used the packing tape, but couldn’t get the adhesive off with the goo remover. Than had another go and this time using the glossy non adhesive side to hold the glue in place (small patch held by Tamiya tape). Result: Clear as day up to the point where it is difficult to see if there is a window at all from some angles
  3. Hi, Thanks for the suggestion. @billn53 followed up using packing tape, which likely eliminates much of the roughness on the adhesive side. See his Cessna Skymaster build. It definitely has more potential. Appreciate the interest in the UV resin use for clear parts Rgds Rob
  4. Hi, Just an update of the final interior work done on the b-17. Installed the guns (minus barrels and made sure they are well secured with Thin CA, which also closed up all the gaps around the gun ports. Installed some of the gun belts. The front port side belt will go in last, which is going to be a difficult since the belts do not bend very well. Installed the front Bomb bay bulkhead. The aft bulkhead will be installed once the 2 halves are together. Below some images before the all of that work will disappear. Sometimes it is difficult painting straight lines…… Made the generator from a 1/24 merlin engine part. Not too happy about the fuselage paint work on the PS, but this was started years ago with limited knowledge about prepping etc. Sb fuselage looks a little better in this respect. The self constructed front bomb bay bulkhead. There is a few things which I am still not entirely happy about, but overall, I am quite pleased that I managed to get through all that interior photo etch. That was one of the objectives, to get a little better using these detailing sets, although I am not sure whether I would use a similar set for my Monogram b-24 that Is eventually up next on the list. I may just opt there to concentrate more on the exterior rather than interior detail, but we will see. That’s still some way off. Thanks for watching Rgds Rob
  5. Hi Neil, Thanks for the reply. Yes, the fat blisters are fine, but I think they require to be moved slightly forward on the mark IX compared to the Vb. (although there is probably an exception for that as well ) Good luck with the build. Had to do a lot of filling and sanding around the nose, but all manageable. If you haven’t done already, it may be worthwhile to think about how to replace the cowling fasteners if you loose that detail. I think there are some acceptable aftermarket replacements for that from the car department of the hobby. Would love to do another one more accurately this time, but the Heritage sets are more difficult to come by. Rgds Rob
  6. Will follow this build with interest. I did this conversion about 5 years ago, before I signed up with Britmodeler. I certainly could have used all the input, because even though I was aware of the different Spitfire wing types, I only went with minor changes. Did post it on a different site only to find out that the canon blister had to be moved more forward for the mark IX, but it looks like with all your research you have this well covered. Did make the effort to retro-fit the blister in the end. Will not show the model , but here is the re positioned “fat” blister, although the thinner version was more common I believe. It is a great conversion and I hope you have fun with it. Will follow your build.
  7. Hi, Well, spending many hours on my uv resin windows, I would sum up that it wasn’t quite the model building revolutionary technique I was hoping for. However it may have some use for when you have lost a flat clear part and there are some properties which are useful and worth further exploring. The biggest problem I found that the service tension in liquid form, only allows for filling very small windows, lenses (And creates a very nice result - but this was a known technique already). Krystal clear does have this tension, but I didn’t dry clear enough to my satisfaction either. So I backed the resin up with tape, which results in a rough texture on the adhesive side. If you have the “ hard” type resin it does sand and polish very well. There are no tiny air bubbles in the resin I used. On the one hand it adheres well to the kit, but the resin can also be popped out with a little bit of force. Thus you can make several parts and choose the one that comes out best. It is probably a technique that requires further exploring by someone with more patience than me. I used 800-1000, followed by 1800-2000 and Tamiya 3000 sanding sponges. Then polished with Novus scratch remover. It can be further enhanced by dipping the part in future. on reflection I think I should have concentrated more on sanding in the various stages. It may make sense to see which brand of uv resin has the best properties for this purpose. Below some pics of my amateur experimentation. Because so much sanding/polishing was involved and I didn’t want to eat in the fuselage plastic and detail, the windows were sanded separately. The parts after Sanding/Polishing The parts after dipping in Pledge Although I couldn’t focus the subject properly, you notice that once inserted, it didn’t quite look that convincing and at this stage it is still not a match for a regular clear part. Hence I sanded the little stubs away on the Monogram windows and repeated the process all over again and settled for those. But, I will keep this option in mind, because it may hold more promise. Better uv resin, more detail to sanding/polishing etc. may produce better results. Onwards with the armament. My next challenge is to attach the photo etch ammo belts from ammo boxes to guns without breaking other parts or making a mess with superglueSuggestion welcome. Prior to this the barrels will need to be removed and pre-drilled (for placement at the end…….) Such a long way to go and I would at least really like to get to the stage where the fuselage can be closed up. That’s all, thanks for watching. Rgds Rob
  8. Thanks Dov, I have done several tests now. If it wasn’t for all that detail inside, I would probably put the tape on the inside. So far: the tape on the residue side is relatively rough as was to be expected. First I tried to polish it away, but I already found out you need to go deeper with the 3M sand sponges 800-1000 and finer step by step and polish it smooth in the end. So started all over again and making some photographs. If it is successful I will post it step by step. I am sure it is probably viable for bigger windows. (It already works great for small windows and lenses) A thicker uv glue would probably assist and I gather hardening to a tough end-material would help. There are probably some differences in uv glue brands as well. Good thing is. That if you are not happy with the result, you can just push the window out with a little bit of pressure. Hopefully it works but I am going to let that uv glue cure for a couple of days this time Rgds Rob
  9. Been working mostly on restoring the scuffed transparent parts. First used Tamiya polishing compounds and found especially the nose cone still suffering from a smooth but somewhat irregular appearance in thickness. First dipped them in AK gauzy, but this wasn’t quite glass like. Then stripped the Gauzy back and started all over again but this time dipped them in Pledge. It now looks much brighter, thinner and a big improvement. Also wanted some protection as I will have to apply photo etch framing to the transparent parts. The fuselage windows do not fit very well into the fuselage. Tried to fill them with kristal clear, and although it worked, it didn’t dry that transparent, so they were removed. Have been further experimenting with UV resin. The 2 very small windows above the nose gunport are easy to do, but the bigger windows need some support in order for the glue not to run away. Therefore did some experimenting and it looks like using tape on the fuselage side holding the glue and let it further harden for a day or so may work. Once the UV glue is fully hardened, I will polish it on the tape side on the exterior fuselage. Did a test run and it should work. (Fingers crossed). That’s all, thanks for watching. Rgds Rob
  10. Hi Tom, Thanks for your efforts in looking this up for me. Yes, the yellow bands look very appealing combined with the red prop hubs and the red band around the nose. Difficult choice now. ( unless I try the HKM B-17 at a later stage) Many thanks Rgds Rob
  11. Did not have much build time since my last posting due to a major sanding, masking, priming and paint exercise on a different much larger subject, but may post this at the end of todays update. Done some work on parts of the bomb bay. The bombs themselves of which there are only 4 in the kit, to be hung on the centre rack. I have thought of scratch building the 2 side racks as well, but they will probably interfere with Monogram's wing-securing arrangement. (That's probably why they were omitted from the kit) The catwalk was probably metal coloured, but I am not sure about the vertical bomb rack itself. It is often green on restored b-17's and some photographs show part green/part metal, but looking at some reports and footage of the Memphis Belle restoration where they went to great length and up to removing interior paint where not original, I think they show all metal coloured. So that is what they still are with some black painted parts simulating rubber anti slip on the catwalk. (some weathering still to be done) Did some work on the bombs and tried to imitate the cast iron effect on the body with applied thinned Tamiya filler. Only to discover that on images they appear to be rather smooth. The very front of the Monogram bombs are quite crudely casted and the small fuses/detonators with the mini propellers...?? (really not sure how they are called or how they function...) Anyway, I replaced them with more refined details from an accurate miniatures left over ordnance sprue. The fins are of course way too thick as well, but I did not want to spent any more time on these since they are mostly hidden away. It is my intention to have the bomb bay open, which would show a considerable gap between cockpit/radio room floor at their bomb by bulkhead location. I therefore made some bottom bulkhead parts with lightening holes for visual interest and may dress them up a little more if they require. Since I had to airbrush the yellow rings on the bombs, I decided to combine them with with the yellow propeller tips. Primed with Tamiya fine surface primer, finely sanded and sprayed with mr color Ueno black, which is also a great base for the AK xtreme Steel for the hub. Was watching a video from Doogs model the other day and he used pink as a base for yellow instead of white. I tried this, but with the lack of pink in my arsenal, I used a flesh colour as an undercoat for the usually difficult to airbrush yellow colour and bad covering properties. I think it worked and you don't see a tiny white line by using the flesh colour after removing the masking tape. The flesh colour just appears to blend in. The Ueno gloss black is very smooth and a good base for the decals after which it will be flat coated and weathered. One propeller hub was intentionally left silver, representing a replacement. From what I understand, the propeller hubs were often painted in group or squadron colours and I have not 100% decide which livery to go for. The B-17 Little Miss Mischief is an incredible scheme, but it is often build due to it's attractiveness (and rightly so). I have the sheet, but I am much more leaning towards "American Beauty" as seen below. By the way, at the same time managed to obtain the generic B-17 stencilling decals. Also in my decal collection are the 2 original Monogram sets and "Chow Hound", "El Lobo" are still on the table The box contained the decals for " Shoo Shoo Shoo baby" and "Thunderbird" but even though they look amazing in below phone camera image they are a little faded and I am not sure if they are still in good condition for application. My real favourite however is "2nd Patches". There is a great finished model of this scheme on imodeler and I don't think that quality will be repeated in this thread, but it is quite cool. The super scale decal sheet and instructions only shows the natural metal fin, but it also has the fuselage door and part of the starboard wing in natural metal and it looks pretty attractive. And......the shark mouth! The real " 2nd patches" So I guess it is between "American Beauty" and "2nd Patches". The all natural metal finish of American Beauty would be the easiest option, since the formula of priming, followed by Mr Color Ueno Black and AK Xtreme Polished aluminium (slightly dulled down by Mr color GX gloss) has worked fine for me in the past, However, "American Beauty appears not to have any further colours on the vertical fin or stabilizer, which could make it a little monotonous in appearance unless perhaps combined with different shades of metal panels. "2nd Patches" may look a little more interesting, although I have to find a better Olive Drab than the Mr color I used for the bombs which was quite translucent and not covering great. I would also like the base color to be a little more towards the pale brownish side of Olive Drab if possible. Some further exploring to do. That's all for today and thank you for watching. Comments, feedback and critique is welcome. Oh yes, almost forgot........my other big masking and painting project taking up most of my time: Regards,
  12. Really like that minimal subtle panel line, barely visible (but just enough) on the NASA livery. Sometimes these and demo schemes can be a little bland if just glossed over to my eye. This looks just right. Like it
  13. Thanks everyone for the previous feed back. So managed to get through most of the Big Ed interior eduard photo etch parts with basically the interior armament to attend to still. Minus the “Master” barrels. They will be added at the final stage. Not entirely happy with all of the photo etch additions, but I am definitely getting better at it and discovering which glues are best and for which purpose. Some products are essential. Like the VMS debonder and plain old acetone for when you have to start all over again after mistakes and clean up or dissolve the superglue. (I am still not confident enough to take the solder iron to hand). The coloured photo etch is very fragile and don’t take to chemicals very well. Should not be too long before I can close the fuselage up and hide all that detail. During the dry fit I only had to relocate one photo etch bracket and it now closes very nicely. Below some images. Thats all. Thank you for watching and comments, critique, feedback and advice is always welcome. Thanks
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