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Rob K.

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    Gloucestershire, UK

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  1. Slight mishap, while I was trying to mask a few panels in order to highlight them using some weathering powders. When removing the tape, despite having tried to seal them with gloss and Matt coats, the yellow “2nd patch” decal came away. They must never really have taken to the surface, just like the trouble I had with the “Y”:diamond on the tail. Removed the other side and had no choice but try and make a mask. I tried this earlier, but the frisket masks didn’t come out right. Then remembered I had some Tamiya masking sheets and that worked much better. First put a base of Tamiya flesh colour and then the yellow just took to it with just 2 passes of the airbrush. on some images you can find the second patches text in white, but studying the black and white photograph, the text is in my opinion very different compared to the white of the stars and bars, so maintained the yellow text. Below the comparison with decals: And here the replacement text using a cricut mask cut from Tamiya tape: Will have to cover again with some Alclad Matt. Rgds Rob
  2. Couldn’t resist and removed the window masking tape. All windows stayed in place, but some were clouded with dust and residue, probably from washing the model after sanding/scribing. Thus had to break a window in the nose so I could access them from the inside with a cotton swab for cleaning. Managed to carefully glue the window back in. Some tidying up to do around the transparencies. The wings to fuselage is a pretty tight fit, so also on this occasion I couldn’t resist a dryfit and it is good to finally see it come together, although I am months away from completing the model, also due to my work abroad and my leave about to end soon. Hope you like it thus far: Tomorrow I may turn to some chipping, although I can’t really find an image with obvious general wear due to maintenance. I gather near the wing root and the front engine covers might be a good place to start and perhaps near the fuel caps. The Wright Cyclones need some dirtying up as well. That’s all, thanks for watching, Rgds Rob
  3. Wasn’t quite happy with the work done with the Tamiya weathering powders and in the end I decided to airbrush the Tamiya “smoke”. First I tried to loosely mask it with blue tack, but that didn’t work, so I took the plunge and airbrushed it freehand. Not sure if it look the part, but it is pretty permanent now: Perhaps the weathering powders didn’t look that bad after all. May use them agin for some touch ups. Coated everything in Alclad Matt varnish ( the solvent type) except the NMF sections which were given an extra coat of Alclad Gloss (also the solvent version): When lifting masking tape on the fin, a tiny bit of the black “Y” diamond came away. I decided to not touch up, but leave it as wear. Tomorrow I should be able to remove the window masks. Just hoping all the windows stay in place and don’t come out……. That’s all thanks for watching, Rgds Rob
  4. Had a go at trying to simulate the exhaust/oil stains with the Tamiya powders. Attempting to achieve a little bit of Color variation by mixing in brown and white with the black. Not sure if I am reaching the desired result, but on the other hand it takes only one swipe with a damp kitchen towel and it is completely removed. I may have a look in the morning with a fresh pair of eyes to see if I am happy with the weathering. Thinking of blending it in with Tamiya smoke….. Thanks for watching
  5. Thanks Elger, good suggestion, however I am not sure if the oil paint/mineral spirits may affect the mr color gx varnish since it is laquer based and not water/acrylic based. (If I am correct?) Rgds, Rob
  6. Hi, Completely sanded the vertical stabiliser smooth, rescribed and re-riveted and metal coated everything again after my paintwork using the cricut masks turned disastrous. Did not include any pictures of this mishap, but continued as follows after this reset: Mixed some mr Color go gloss and flat varnish to a semi gloss in order to prepare for decalling and the flory wash. Had quite some trouble with the adhesion of the decals. Micro sol didn’t quite do the trick and the Draco strong removed the top film on the fin, hence the black diamond was airbrushed/sanded/painted until it was repaired satisfactory. Also the “2nd patches” didn’t quite conform and it took a lot of effort to eliminate the silvering, despite using mr mark setter before placement. The stars and bars were all airbrushed. In hindsight I could have placed the insignia on the port wing a little more back towards the aileron, but I was following the decal sheet instructions at the time and placed the mask accordingly. All the riveting is still visible, although I am not sure if it shows on the images. A few areas on the wing have been treated with the flory wash, but the fuselage (and majority of the wing) still needs to be done after the semi gloss coat covering the decals has dried properly. After the flory wash I may have a go at the exhaust/oil Staines, planning to use Tamiya weathering powders as I don’t quite trust my freehand airbrush skills. Will try to follow below patterns: That’s all, thanks for watching Rgds, Rob
  7. Very nice looking Hunter. Like the different load outs.
  8. Had a go with the Cricut I got hold of recently and made my own Stars and Bars using frisket film. Mixed mr. Color “Blue angels blue” with some black to get the insignia blue which I matched to various sets of Decals. Mr Color gloss white for the stars, which has got excellent coverage over the dark blue. Quite happy with how it turned out. ( supercharger weathering not finished by the way) That’s all, thanks for watching. Rgds, Rob
  9. Airbrushed the walkways on today and everything went quite nicely….until I was studying the size and location of the stars and bars on wings and fuselage and then discovered that “2nd patches” according to the images had the staggered waist gun windows So now I am contemplating whether to live with it or go for an entire Olive drab b-17. Really liked the scheme, the decal set actually has the directly opposing waist gun configuration but that is turning out to be inaccurate. Will sleep on it. Anyway below today’s “progress”. Rgds, Rob
  10. Nice blackbird. Very tempted to get one after your wip report and your excellent result. Rgds Rob
  11. Tried my luck with some olive drab variations. The base is Mr Color 12, lighter tones are MRP OD 234 in places mixed with MRP 204 Sand Yellow and also some misting of AK’s Faded Olive Drab. Flight control surfaces are a mist of cockpit green on top of the base Olive drab. The metal surfaces are AK xtreme metal Alu variations. The metal surface on the vertical stabiliser was protected earlier with some aqua gloss. The one top panel was sprayed today, hence it jumps out a little, but hope to blend that in a little more later. Getting a little closer to where I want it to be, just hoping I have not lost too much detail in the process. That’s all, thanks for watching. Rgds Rob
  12. Thank you Bensi, Progress is rather slow I am afraid. Can’t quite get the Olive drab how I want it to look, but thanks for your comment. Rgds, Rob
  13. Hi, Managed to get the basic colours on the B-17. Would have liked to have hade a little more of a faded Olive drab look and Did try to mix in some mrp sand in places. Need to figure out how to get that light brownish olive drab look. Have lots of paints and colours to my disposal, but struggling with the right tone. The rudder also needs a different Colour aluminium and plan to pick out some panels with slightly different colour tones to simulate localised repairs. Painted the panels behind the engine nacelles the same metal colour as the vertical stabiliser. Naturally way to shiny, so toned them down with Tamiya weathering powder. They appear over painted on some pictures in the camouflage colours and on other images they appear more like weathered metal. Wonder if it is heat protection and thus subject to paint wearing of over time or perhaps not painted at all on some b-17’s. The nacelles will be dirtied up much more though and this is just a start. The scribed and rivet detail is still there and very subtle, but I hope to lift it with a wash. It is not quite clear if the “2nd patches” livery that I am trying to replicate had the de-icing boots part present or already completely removed. In hindsight the better option would have been to sand the de-icing boots away and apply rivet detail. Obviously on the starboard wing and the leading edge of the rudder they were removed due to repairs after battle damage. As a compromise, I may leave the de-icing boots on the port wing intact in the assumption that they were not yet removed and paint them a faded rubbery colour. From reading I gather that the de-icing boots were mostly removed and they consisted simply of a rubber layer over a bare metal leading edge ensuring easy movement whilst inflating/deflating? Anyway, plenty of discussions on the various modeller websites regarding this feature. Still have to make up my mind what to do with the boots. Also came across a nice account of one of the pilots WalterMoody of “2nd Patches”, describing the raid that led to most of the visible repairs as shown in the images: https://www.facebook.com/pg/99BGHS/photos/?ref=page_internal&tab=album&album_id=626418627879321 That was all for the progress in the last few days. Thanks for watching. Comment/critique always welcome. Kind regards, Rob
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