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Andrés S.

Members
  • Content Count

    152
  • Joined

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314 Excellent

About Andrés S.

  • Rank
    New Member
  • Birthday 04/12/1965

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    asalvador@hotmail.es

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Valencia, España
  • Interests
    Airplanes, specially Spanish Air Force 1/72.

Recent Profile Visitors

307 profile views
  1. Thanks Andwil. Andrés S. Hola Miguel. I'm glad to greet you. It is a pleasure that you like my work. Stretched plastic I like to use it because it is easier, more controllable and cleaner when it sticks to another plastic. It is really easy to use, you can also build the stretched plastic of the thickness you need. But be careful, the extra-liquid glue must be used in a very small amount or it disappears. The dry brush I don't think is a technique that is obsolete. In fact, I don't think there is anything obsolete about the subject of painting. There is only the fact that if a technique is adequate for the purpose we want to achieve then that technique is the one that we should use, regardless of whether it is recent or old. I also believe that you should not use all the techniques that are known at the same time. We must use only those with which we will achieve the effect we seek. And if one of them is old then perfect. Certainly the detonating cord is fine, I think about 0.2 mm, and that it is in a place of the piece that does not facilitate its painting. But with a little patience it can be done. I used a very light gray from Vallejo MC. Because of the location of the cord I could not apply the paint with the brush inclined transversely to the relief in the plastic that is the cord. I had to do it longitudinally with what frequently due to the little thickness of the cord the brush came out of where I had to apply the paint. But there is not nothing to worry. You can use a toothpick. The tips of these chopsticks are sharp, but we can improve them by cutting at an angle a small portion of the tip with a sharp cutter which will make the tip even sharper, ceasing to be a conical tip to have a flat face. Well, with the flat face of the stick resting on the plastic, the detonating cord being embossed, having little adhesion of the Vallejo MC paint and the wood not being able to scratch the plastic we can gradually remove it with the tip of the stick scraping the paint which has been inevitably applied to the sides of the cord, in addition to a small dose of patience. If it is necessary to touch up the cord with new paint due to unintentionally detached, the light gray is applied again and the operation is repeated once it dries. Abrazos. Andrés S.
  2. Certainly Stuard, I think they bring nice details. Thanks. Well, Slowly slowly we will reach the end of the road. So here a little photo ... Air intake to the engine. First I applied Alclad Titanium, previously Tamiya's gloss black base. Then I applied a brush of Tamiya enamel smoke quite diluted and once dry I hit the recesses with Vallejo MC black very diluted to darken the most hidden parts. I ended up giving a light dry brush by mixing Aluminum plus a metal black tip of Vallejo Model Air to obtain some reflection in the most prominent parts of the blades as well as the ring that joins them. I will mask with a circle of Tamiya tape and airbrush the Gunze H-316. Andrés S.
  3. Hi all. The landing gear kit offered by Attack Squadron consists of different resin parts to replace certain parts of the front leg, the center and the Hasegawa wing skates. The front leg should be cut with a mini-saw exactly below the landing light. The resin wheel detail is much better. It includes, like all of A.Sq., the effect of weight, as well as the tread channels. Also the fork that holds the wheel has better detail than that of the Hasegawa kit. To the front leg I add a second focus of ligth that I do by cutting with the cutter a portion of plastic and with stretched plastic I make the cables. I also remove the small cover that brings in the back and I will replace with a resin provided by Attack Squadron. To the central leg I add its photogravures and a pair of cables made with stretched plastic. For wing skates A.Sq. It provides very well detailed small wheels and their corresponding forks. Also add some photogravures. To place the resin parts and replace the plastic ones, the base of the shock absorber must be cut in the Hasegawa parts. I add two small details to them: the rings for fastening to the flight deck that I made with copper wire, and the hydraulic cable to drive the folding of the skate that I made with stretched plastic. Regards. Andrés S.
  4. Hi I have Sword Harrier T. Mk.2 / 2A with the intention of doing it at some point as TAV-8S. I always thought it was a very good looking kit but I am seeing that it will give me more awkward work than desired. I have the air inlets mentioned by Robert of Freightdog Models. I have tested lace and it is very good. Good job for now.
  5. Hi Pedro Jose. I love the cockpit look. I have seen one so real for a long time. The work in camouflage paint is exceptional. An awesome job. !! Andrés S.
  6. You can be proud !! Very nice construction and paint. The mottled with airbrush looks fantastic. Andrés S.
  7. Beautiful !! I love the wear and the good appearance of both gray and red. It looks great. Andrés S.
  8. Hi mdauben. I like Harrier so much that unless they paint it fluorescent green I like to wear the paint scheme that is. It is scheme that had the AV-8S were the same as the NAVY had in the 70s, which was when they entered service in Spain. It was logical that some planes that were manufactured in the USA and that would also operate at sea would carry similar paintings. Also in those years it was the time of "high visibility". Large and colorful shields, large letters and supposedly great nationality badges. All this makes it a very colorful decoration. In addition the Spanish badges with red and yellow so highly visible. But this is an other history... Thank you for your words, I'm glad you like them. Andrés S.
  9. Hi Terry1954. Thank you for your kind words, I'm glad you like my previous Harrier. I hope to be able to battle the resins of Aires this time and finish this beautiful plane. Andrés S.
  10. I really like how well applied the metallic color is. Very nice. The whole plane is really nice. A suggestion. Maybe the model looks better in photographs with another background, I think the black background does not help to see everything good of the model. Andrés S.
  11. Great job. Really beautiful !! I see on the top of the right wing a weathering that I love. Very nice throughout. Andrés S.
  12. Hi neil5208. No. I was wrong when I said I did the AV-8S with the Airfix kit. I meant that I did it with the Gr.1 of Airfix, which is equal to A and A is equal to S externally except for the antennas at the top of the fuselage. I made the antennas with 0.2 mm plastic sheet and it was really just looking at photographs of the real airplane and trying to calculate the dimensions. Sorry. Hi Corageous. They are certainly similar words that mean something similar but in opposite directions. This reminds me of what I read once about the affirmative or negative gesture made with the head. Well, if you are ever having a beer in a Bulgarian pub and an attractive girl approaches you and makes a proposal in a low voice do not affirm with your head with a movement from top to bottom or you will have lost your chance. It turns out that in Bulgaria moving the head from top to bottom means no and moving it from left to right means yes. Andrés S.
  13. Thank you guys, I appreciate your words. Andrés S.
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