Andrés S.

Thank you, Antonio. Regards.

Great job in general and especially in the exhaust nozzles. I love !!! Regards. Andrés S.

Really beautiful !! Andrés S.

Hi Antonio. Paisano, this is how the 1/32 scale should work. It looks incredible. But it explains something about the process, so we can learn. Regards. Andrés S. P.D.- Since Albacete is near Valencia, will you bring something for Torrente 2020?

The Kraken really steals prominence in the scene from the submarine. But it is that it looks incredibly good. And I love the idea of showing only the surface layer of the ocean. A great job, no doubt !!! Regards. Andrés S.

Thanks !! Andrés S.

Very nice preshading !! A. Salvador.

Hi Kitchen Modeller, thank you for your kind words, I'm glad you like this little job. At first, I thought of doing the AT-AT only but a friend gave me the Snowspeeder and I came up with the idea of making a small scene with both. The moment Luke passes under one of the AT-AT in the battle of Hoth seemed to me a beautiful image as a humble tribute to which in my opinion I consider the best film of all that have been made about STAR WARS. Certainly Bandai kits are really expensive, even buying them on eBay (as I have done) but the quantity and quality of detail is absolutely impressive, as well as the engineering of the parts that makes assembly much easier. I have used the putty only on the feet of the AT-AT (and very little), that says it all. I really enjoyed painting these models. I am a beginner using Vallejo products for the weather, but I am satisfied with the result. Whenever I can I like to add some small detail in the models, although in this one it was practically impossible because of the quality of the detail, but I enjoy painting more. Bandai kits do not need almost any extra resin or fhotoetched, so I don't think they adopt Eduard's commercial policy of making "weekend" kits. I think what they would do would be to add them and then they would be even more expensive kits. Yes I have. The quality of these kits is so great that I have not been able to resist the temptation, thinking that they might not produce them in a while and their prices will rise even more. I have the X-wing, Y-wing, B-wing, TIE Interceptor, TIE Advanced X-1 in 1/72 scale, Millennium Falcon 1/144 scale, Snowspeeder and AT-ST 1/48 scale and Tantive IV and Super Stardestroyer in very scale little. And yesterday I got the kit of the Jedi Starfigther D-7 of Fine Molds 1/72 scale. Even with so many kits in the hiding place I still have R2-D2 and C3PO in my head, but for now I won't buy them. Regards. Andrés S.

Hi iainpeden. I had that option in mind since it is usually done to remove chrome parts but before I wanted an idea. However before I have tried with isopropyl alcohol that I know that it does not affect the plastic of the models and has given result. Right now I am at it. Thank you very much for your help. Regards. Andrés S.

Hi all. I need help with the primer. I bought a model by eBay, the model is new and the pieces are in the sprues. It has arrived correctly but the seller, who was a private individual, has primed almost all pieces with white primer I think Tamiya or Gunze. I have written asking about it to find the appropriate diluent to remove it but it does not answer me. Does anyone know of any method to remove the primer without affecting the detail of the pieces? Thanks for the help. Andrés S.

I continue with the Barax pod. The piece itself is quite well reproduced but you have to change at least one thing, although I have changed two in addition to making some screws as it comes as the rest. I have changed the inferior fins for fine plasticard, but it is not essential for size. I have done it for fineness nothing more. What is essential to change is the subalar support. It brings two subalar supports: the one that holds the Barax pod and the subalar support itself. Well, the latter is the one to replace. The instructions say absolutely nothing that this has to be changed for a Spanish airplane model, although the kit includes a very correct resin part. So using a mini-saw I have cut where it belongs and I have placed the resin piece in its place. Painted with metallized Alcald and sealed with its ALC-600 varnish. Regards. Andrés S.

Thanks Wez, I'm glad you like it. I have finished the deposit by applying black oil mixed with brown to highlight the details, as well as on the tank support. The decals offered by Special Hobby for the deposit are not completely correct, but I have done what I could and even cut one of them. I have also had to build the four black ones with the blank border, which designate the support places, from leftover pieces of black on white decal and then placed in place. Some details I have painted brass. The final varnish has been with satin Vallejo. Regards.

I have not said that. I think it was Apex who said that the Spanish F.1 used the MK 6. And Antonio Argudo provided a photograph of an MK 6 indicating that it was taken at the end of the 80s at the Albacete Air Base. What I said is that the differences between an Mk 4 and an MK 6, according to the website of the manufacturer Martin Baker itself was only with respect to the ejection system in which one was by explosive charge and the other by rocket. So, starting from what the manufacturer says, I take it for granted that the external appearance of an MK 4 and an Mk 6 is the same. I hope I have clarified the question. Andrés S.

I'm very interested in how you will taclke the Mk6 seat. I need one for my SMB2 'Sa'ar' ;). Did I miss your solution somewhere? Martin You ask Antonio or you ask me? If it is me I do not plan to make a model of that plane you mention. Regards.

Amazing !!!