Andrés S.

Great Job. I like it !!! Andrés S.

Well, what surprises me is that there is a Spanish decals producer called "Series Españolas" and that it does not have decals in its catalog for this iconic aircraft. Andrés S.

After airbrushing Tamiya gloss varnish I have applied the decals. I always cut the support of the decals as much as possible, with scissors or with the cutter. I have used the Micro liquids for its placement and although the printing of the motifs of the decals is surely not the best that I have seen, all have behaved quite well. I was especially afraid that the decal of the Cross of San Andrés (Which is a tribute / memory of the flag used by the Spanish Infantry Tercios since 1506 and which in time became the first flag of Spain, until 1785) would give me problems due to the corrugated surface of the rudder. However, from its application and after pressing as usual with a piece of kitchen paper, it adapted perfectly. I don't think the Micro liquid to adapt it did more than the pressure with the paper already did. In this sense the decals have behaved very well. After placing them, I apply gloss varnish over each of the decals again to help make the step between the model surface and the decal surface less abrupt and, when it is definitely varnished with matte or satin, disappear. Andrés S.

Thank you very much, I'm glad you like it. Andrés S.

Many thanks for your kind words !! Certainly the detail with plasticard is something that is almost forgotten and many times we resort to resin accessories when everything is much easier with plastic. In this model, for example, I still have to put 3 antennas that I have made with Evergreen 0.2 mm sheet. Cheers. Andres S.

I would like to thank Milhajo (Miguel) for the support, advice, the long modeling talks, his time etc etc etc. But especially his generosity, which started a long time ago with the altruistic shipment of some decals he needed for a MIG-15. MIG-15 that will surely resume after this one. Generosity by offering to make some numbers and nationality roundels in a mask with Tamiya graph paper and self-adhesive using their cutting plotter, both for the VIGGEN and for the Aviocar. I just want to tell you THANK YOU FRIEND. Last night I painted the leading edges of the wings, stabilizers and drift black. As the plane is supposed to be a bit sun-damaged I didn't want to use Tamiya's black so I have used Gunze's H-77 tire which is not pure and deep black. With it I have also painted the numerals and for the red of the rosettes the red XF-7 of Tamiya although without having much influence with it for the same reason. The yellow used has been the Tamiya XF-3 to which I normally add an orange dot but this time and also for the same reason of the discoloration I have not done it. It is already varnished. I hope to be able to panel and highlight details shortly. A photo of the upper cockade of the left wing. And a batch of photos with the process carried out with the numerals , having previously painted the roundel. Andrés S.

Many thanks !! Andrés S

Thanks. Thanks. Another step. And, so I will leave it after applying Vallejo MC; I do not see it to make tricks made with oils as with the Viggen deposit, with the ones made with Vallejo in some points of the wings, I think it is going well. After painting the cone of the bow and the bands of the leading edges of the different planes in black, I will varnish and apply oil to panel and highlight details. Andrés S.

Hi. Well, as I have advanced I have played by varying the proportion upwards of the AK gray color in the airbrush and I have tried to simulate areas less affected by the wear of the paint, some traces of dirt that will be reinforced later on with oils or tones of Vallejo MC and the simulation of having patched some areas like the one in the numerals. I apologize because I am not a good photographer and some points of the photographs are not properly focused or sharp. So I have taken some general shots and some closer. Andrés S.

Thank you for your kind words, they are appreciated. Andrés S.

Well as it was written they have fallen by KO in the first round ... But I do not care. And since he is not going to go to the showcase anymore (and surely not that ...) I am going to continue, and trying to put into practice a little thing, since I have learned a couple of points from construction with him. Things that will help me, along with what I learn with painting, for those who definitely do. Well, the red propeller warning band nearby comes in decal but things like that are always better painted. After applying white as a base so that the red looks as it should I sprayed it from Gunze and masked with 1 mm tape that I remove after applying the base color. This has been a mixture of 35% AK RC-237 Medium Gray FS-35237 and 65% White XF-2 from Tamiya. The FS-35237 is supposedly the color as it leaves the factory and varying the proportion of this with the white up or down, I will make some shades, repainting patches etc as I progress in the paint. Andrés S.

Well, ready for painting. I leave you some photos of the general appearance that it will have. But before finishing this post, I would like to remove from the head anyone who wants to make this model of using CMK resins for flaps. The instructions are clear but they lie. 8 actuators are indicated on the flaps, 4 for the internal ones and 4 for the external ones. Given that they have different and similar numbering among equals, it is to be expected that the exteriors are different from the interiors. Well, it's not like that. Actuators are mixed in the waterers which are misplaced if the instructions are followed. And since you have to stick them with cyanoacrylate ... Furthermore, the only point of attachment between the flaps and the wing are the actuators and they are extremely fine and therefore fragile. If I had known this before, I would not have used them even if they supposedly add a plus to the model. The kit allows the depth rudders and rudder to be moved. With this and cut and leave the spoilers in position (which I have also done) I think that is enough. If I had known this with the flaps I would not have placed them. Now I have to find a mixture of paint to try to represent the color of the plane. In this photo you can see at the end an airplane with the relatively recent painting (perhaps due to a complete revision). But most of the photos I have gotten show the Aviocar in gray with very faded paint, even patches. In these photos, which are of the plane that I want to represent, in addition to it you can see that the drift navigation light has transparent glass instead of red so I will have to strip the piece I made for it. Well, when I decide with the paint tone I will put more advances. And a couple of photographs of the model as it is now. Andrés S.

Well, today I have taken two more steps towards the airbrush. There it goes. I have assembled the remaining pieces that form the flaps after riveting them because they did not bring it from home and if I had not done so, it would have collided with the rest of the plane, including the nearby spoilers. I think they will give me some headaches when I go to put them under the wings (in the final photo they are only put without sticking to them). We'll see... Andrés S.

Another step. Before placing the flaps you have to put in place a few very fine pieces protruding from the trailing edge of the wing itself. As the resin is always problematic for gluing, I replace them with thin strips of 0.13 mm Evergreen. And the finished painting propellers, but only the propellers. The hub on the left is just for your presentation. Since I have seen that the propellers had a slightly different color than the rest of the plane, the hub left it for when I applied the paint. Regards. Andrés S.

Hi. This model I have had to stop because I lost the piece of the front glass. I have obtained that Special Hobby through its claim service sent me what is necessary. From here I want to express my gratitude and appreciation for great customer service. I placed it in position using a brush and glue extra-liquid with care so that it extended by capillary action in the joint area. Even so, I had to use 0.25mm Evergreen sheet and a few small stretches of stretched plastic to seal a gap at the bottom. And finally I have used putty diluted in acetone to finish the gap filling job. After using the putty and carefully sanding the joints a second time, I sprayed a light gray to see if a third application of putty is necessary. And I found an error which forced me to another session of putty and sandpaper. For the boarding step, I decide not to use the kit part and make it with telephone cable wire. In its center I have placed rolled up a portion of self-adhesive aluminum to simulate the non-slip surface, where the foot rests, which will be in its black color. The same is done with the antenna on both sides of the upper part of the drift, which I replace with the same metallic wire. In this photo you can also see a slice of plastic that will be the base of the navigation light that I previously made. The last thing done so far has been to place the rear navigation light. Made with stretched transparent plastic. Regards. Andrés S.