marvinneko

crispy fries cheese *curds* hot gravy

You might tweak your marketing approach Worst kit GB is a great idea because you can try every technique you've otherwise avoided for fear of messing something up painting with brush or airbrush painting markings instead of decals making your own decals black-basing, priming, or not oil pin washes variations in panel colours natural metal finishes weathering, exhausts scribing riveting thinning trailing edges and cowlings modifications assembling after painting vacuforming ... the list goes on you can't fail... everything you do is an improvement you learn a lot through problem-solving--with zero stakes--so you can take big risks here everything you learn boosts the builds you actually care about later you feel great from the process (instead of bad for making errors) you smash control freakery and perfectionism and embrace humility... a truly strength-building experience There really is no downside. Anything about learning & risk-taking makes a huge difference going forward.

Nice work! Boy you learned a lot on this one. That's awesome. Another touch that elevates a build is applying a wash. Over my acrylics, I use Winsor & Newton burnt umber heavily diluted in lighter fuel (ie. a toothpick applied smudge of oil paint in a cup with a squirt of lighter fuel to create a heavily diluted wash). Using a brush I dab it on panel lines and rivets and other details and it makes them pop. I remove any excess with a cloth dipped in the fuel. By using a heavily diluted wash, I can add enough pigment to bring out all those lovely lines, rivets, while rims, etc. details, and just add a bit more, look, stop, or add more. Gloves and ventilation are essential. In any case, congrats on the builds! I've got a 1/24 Hurricane I rescued from a bad flood. Not sure where I'd ever put it though.

Checked in tonight after a few days.

Looks like dessert! Hm, yes the diet is messing with my head

Spectacular examples!

Looks great. You really wrangled this one into submission. I like the shapes of these propliners.

I bought an aluminum pencil years ago. Do you have any issue with top coats affecting the pencil? It seemed to me I chipped a prop with the pencil but when I applied a clearcoat it disappeared. Perhaps because everything was acrylic.

I am sorry you're dissatisfied but I do get it, having wrangled with the same issue. I almost wonder if a stamp is the way to go. The footprints are tiny. Making a little stamp and just applying paint and pressing it along a line might work. My wife does nail art and does a lot of stamping... although they have a clear stamper you can see through. They apply nail polish to an engraved surface (stainless plates), wipe it so only polish in the engraved bit, then press the stamper onto it then press that onto their nail. But a simpler stamp would just be a foot shape cut into a material. At the risk of being a complete pain in the butt.... the lower decals could be addressed by cutting outlines around the letters and numbers then using your tape trick to remove the large square clear parts around them.

It's not ok to use bots to post to forums, or to conduct AI research using bots on forums. I don't know what the endgame is, but it will ruin the forums.

In that case, plastic putty / acrylic putty might do the trick in a few applications and wiping off excess with a wet cloth or finger. Just throwing things out there. I'm away from my own bench for weeks, so annoying people with armchair suggestions. Hey, I'm married 😛 . My favourite thing is when whatever I say suddenly becomes true after someone else says the same thing months or years later!

Ron, I've had similar challenges and I put it down to not melting the plastic enough. This might be an issue of the volatility of cement you are using and hardness of plastic. For instance, extra thin quick Tamiya might give a nice weld at first glance but fail to melt the plastic enough for a good join because it's evaporating too quickly for that plastic or its thickness. I would say a good join is when I squeeze the edge and a tiny bit of plastic oozes out. When it's cured, I can scrape that off. I have several cements I use now depending on the plastic and how well joins are forming and producing that bit of melt. Several speeds of Tamiya as well as Revell Contacta when I want something slow and powerful.

Might be interesting to put some extra printed decals on a mule and try different techniques to address the thickness... which I think is really just an issue of the edges catching light and the decal changing the reflection from the paint. When I printed decals, I tried sanding edges, and also applying floor polish (quickshine). Anything to reduce the prominent edges. With my Avia, I had an oversized decal that refused to stick and conform to the instrument panel, so I used a few drops of tamiya extra thin cement. It actually worked incredibly well and the decal shrank around the panel. I know some people think it's crazy. Whenever I am working with more watery liquids (superglue, liquid cement, decal softener, etc.), I keep torn bits of paper handy. The torn edges can be applied to liquid after it's applied and they soak it up fast without touching the decal or paint surface. Gives more control and protects the surface. In any case, no need if it doesn't interest you. congrats on pushing this ahead!

Amazing... I did rudders on a Matchbox Norseman. Thinned them and put them in lifted position then called it a day (and broke them off a few times while working on other stuff-- something to be careful of). Love your details... the rivets, and how that bracket sits offset from the float.