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mark.au

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mark.au last won the day on March 12 2021

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About mark.au

  • Birthday June 23

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  1. Looks pretty good so far The question I always ask myself on weathering is how much work has this airframe done? How old is it at the moment modelled, and what kind of operational life has it had? Once you know that, it’s easy to decide if you’re going to go to town on weathering or keep a light touch.
  2. Definitely! You’ll probably need to repair/blend in the finish coat once done but you can definitely still get rid of the silvering.
  3. Work began on the topsides last night but not before finishing off the underside. It’s a little hard to see in the pic but there’s a variation in the sheen where I have made the wings and tail quite flat and the sump, carb intake area and down fuselage quite shiny where the oil has flowed. I still have to add the pitot tube and fill in the glass for the lamp (I’ll use Chrystal Clear for that) but otherwise it’s done. Once I have designed and built the stand I’ll need to drill a hole under there somewhere but that won’t be a problem. Hear’s my primary reference for the topside weathering; I will aim to replicate the variation in hue and shine across the airframe in a similar way to this weather-beaten airframe. I will use washes and chalk in addition to paint, and I think I’ll even use a bit of moisturiser(!). First I mixed up some dark wash goop to emphasise some selected panels, gun access and engine to give a base around which the later stages of weathering will key. With that done, I need something for the chalks to bite into so I applied an overall flat coat. This will be modulated later but for now it’s uniform and a bit flatter than it will end up being anywhere. In essence I’ve simply prepared the canvas but nonetheless so far so good. Tonight I’ll start roughing things up and will try to remember to take pics as once I get going I tend to just plow through! In the mean time, I’ve also finished the ancillary parts such as control surfaces and prop. When I’m done with the weathering and built the stand this one will come together quickly, I expect I’ll finish this weekend. Cheers.
  4. All the cool kids are building BoB Spitfires you know…
  5. Late to this one but thought it might be useful to chip in that the piercing with a pin technique with more Microsol still works after, even after the Pledge is on. You’ll probably need a light Pledge misting afterwards but that’s usually no big deal. I’ve also successfully fixed silvering with 50% diluted Pledge and the pin technique if microsol doesn’t solve it (microsol won’t always work because the decal might just not be flexible enough) which works simply by filling the voids with Pledge. Otherwise, what a great project you’re working through here!
  6. I angle the airbrush so it pretty much only does one side because I want to keep a close eye on how the stain is building up. Besides, cordite stains are mostly on the underside IRL anyway, I don’t apply much to the topsides anyway. I use acrylics, this time it Vallejo Model Air but I’ve used Hataka and Tamiya too. The key is to make a very thin mix so that the stain can be built up through multiple passes rather than one or two. That way you have much more control and one bad pass doesn’t spoil the effect. I thin Tamiya with its own thinner but the other two I thin with Windex. My goop is craft acrylic mixed with water, a dab of Windex to break surface tension and another dab of detergent to make removal easier. I mix it to a thicker viscosity than most washes, something akin to the consistency of full fat milk, perhaps a tad thicker even. It’s still thin enough for panel line work, but for the oil stains I placed a small drop and blew it back with the airbrush. I hope that helps! Thanks for the kind comments on my results. Thanks Alistair, too kind. Feel free to nick anything you like Cheers.
  7. Me too on the topsides, I want to try to replicate the battered look to the paintwork without relying on simply chipping it. Ahh, that’s what those parts still on the sprues are for… Thanks for the comments, and to @Andy J
  8. Very nice indeed Andy, I’ll be happy if mine turns out as well as this. Yours was also a strong WIP thread too, a pleasure to follow along with.
  9. Thanks Roger. I use the airbrush with a very thin mix of a dark grimy colour I mix up with black, brown and grey (not the same goop I use for the oil stains). I aim the airbrush at the leading edge of the wing and rock the airflow back and forth over it with just a touch paint going through it. This mimics the actual mechanics of the cordite stains as closely as is possible in scale. I build up the stain until I get where I want. The ejector ports are done similarly but with a small tape mask so that I don’t put any stain forward of the port. I hope that’s clear, let me know if I can explain it better though… Cheers
  10. I almost always begin the weathering process with the underside and this was no exception. My Spitfire is a well used, BoB workhorse that was around 10 months old at the time depicted. Time enough for the Merlin to have developed some serious leaks, as they usually did. I mixed up my usual blend of black goop and emphasised the key access panels as well as the flaps. Next I simply dabbed it on and around the carb intake and then used the airbrush to simply blow it back along the airflow. Just like the real thing. I worked quite patiently [for me] and after several passes, perhaps as many as 10 or 12 I was satisfied with the level of oil streaking. I used a cotton bud to clean up where the oil ought not be and then turned my attention to the rest of the underside. The general griminess was all applied with the airbrush in multiple light passes. I want to represent an airframe under constant load. When I was done I added the final clear gloss sealing coat and called it done. The only thing remaining on the underside is the pitot tube and the matt finish. The matt will tone down the grime around the guns and ejector ports but I'm going to leave the oil streaking as gloss, as it would be IRL. I have to work on my display now as with no wheels I can't just set it down! I also can't apply the final flat coat either until that's all done too. I have an idea on how I want to build the stand but I won't know for sure until I can get to the hardware store to see if they have what my imagination is seeing... I am stalled on the prop though - I may end up attaching the kit prop as built for the time being. The pics will have a blurred prop because I'll point a fan on it when I take them
  11. A blue highlight pen can work very well to add the tinting post facto as long as you’re careful with how you apply it. As a whole, it’s coming together nicely, good work!
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