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About stever219

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  1. stever219

    737 Max

    I may be being naive, but I would have thought that the FAA would have been well aware of the necessity for redundancy in flight-critical systems after the loss of an Alaskan Airlines MD-80 and everyone aboard after the one and only screw jack controlling the tailplane failed due to inadequate maintenance. It’s also not unreasonable to expect Boeing to be aware of the need for visible (and aural) warnings for aircrew of potentially unsafe conditions after the loss, admittedly a long time before, of a Lufthansa 747 at Nairobi because the crew had no warning that they had not extended the slats for take-off. Let us hope that the lessons from the Ethiopian Airlines and Lion Air 737 Max tragedies are heeded and remembered so that the deaths of nearly 350 people will not have been in vain.
  2. stever219

    1/72 Canberra decals

    Quite a few Canberra’s of various marks have worn raspberry ripple colours but the only “difficult” items of the colour schemes are the A&AEE and RAE titling and their respective badges. I can’t think of any 1/72th Canberra sheets unless they were on some of the long out-of-print Model Alliance/Aviation Workshop sheets.
  3. stever219

    Classic Airframe Meteor NF11

    The night fighters should need less nose ballast, not more. The distance from main wheel centres to tailcone tip is the same in F. Mk. 8, FR. Mk. 9, and all night fighter Meteors except those fitted with a later ECM suite: the longer moment arm ahead of the main wheel centres of the night fighters should make a smaller amount of ballast in the radome and ahead of the nose wheel as effective as a larger amount behind and below the cockpit of a single-seater.
  4. stever219

    Victor antenna, lumps and bumps.

    Wasn't the second dome a carry-over from the B 2 and the hoist/suspension fittings for very big buckets of instant sunshine?
  5. stever219

    1/48 Hawker Hunter 230 Gallon Wing Tanks

    If you've got a Javelin or Sea Vixen in your stash you can rob a pair of tanks from one of them. Don't forget you'll need to modify the outer ends of your flaps to clear the longer tanks.
  6. stever219

    B-26G vs B-26B wing incidence angle

    My leaky memory is telling me that the wing was rotated about the rear spar lower attachment point. It also suggests that, several years ago, someone did the work and posted "in prigress" images on H*p*r*s*a*e.
  7. stever219

    Airfix Victor K2

    I've just found an image of XH672 taken from below and behind and the insides of the flap shrouds look to be much cleaner Light Aircraft Grey than the adjacent under wing areas. When the Victor's wore the Dark Green/Meduum Sea Grey/White camouflage the flap shroud interiors were white. As Canberra Kid said the upper surfaces of the flaps wear the upper surface colour(s) overall. Air brake interiors and their bays and undercarriage legs, bays and doors are Aluminium but the radius arms for the 'brakes have a grey anti-ship finish on their upper surfaces.
  8. stever219

    Phantom FGR.2 (04962) - British Legends Revell 1/48

    Apart from the points above this kit really benefits from the Alley Cat replacement intakes, which are scale depth back to the engine compressor faces and have proper backs to the intake ramps rather than Hasegawa's voids. Also avoid the Aires resin afterburners: they're sized for a J-79-sized rear fuselage (Why?????) and will just disappear into this kit's rear fuselage. Other "tweaks" for a late Spey Phantom, I.e. the 56 and 92 Squadron options, include the long-range "periscooe" which will need to be added between the canopies on the port side and wing reinforcement straps across the belly and below the outer wing panels at least. From the box you can produce a very good replica of an early or mid-life RAF Phantom.
  9. stever219

    Airfix Victor K2

    I got to my Victor earlier today and there is a ridge moulded inside the tank tail cone to use as a guide to cutting it back for the lowered position. Of course you could always do it “just like the real thing” and thin down the side walls of the main part of the tank so that the lower part of the tail one can slide inside it when in the lowered position (runs away bravely and dives bravelier for cover.....).
  10. stever219

    Armstrong Whitworth Whitley GR. Mk.VII

    Couldn't agree more: doing the cockpit greenhouse by hand isn't conducive to a relaxing modelling session. Guess how I know this......
  11. stever219

    Armstrong Whitworth Whitley GR. Mk.VII

    My pleasure Michelle. I forgot to mention that you can leave the firewalls out when assembling the forward section of the nacelle; they can easily be inserted through the wheel bays once the rads are in. Why on Earth Airfix wanted us to install the rads from the front, after first having applied cement, through a hole that required the rads to be twisted in at an angle and then be pulled straight is beyond me.🥴
  12. stever219

    Airfix Victor K2

    I can’t get to my Victors to check the flaps aspect but I think it’s been covered in another thread on this august forum recently. In essence the tank tailcone is pivoted at the top of the tank body and, as the flaps lower, the rear tip of the tail cone runs along a track on the flap undersurface. From memory I think there’s a recess or ridge moulded inside the tank tail cone to show how much to remove. With regard to the bomb aimers windows the glass was replaced with alloy panels, not simply plated over. During the Falklands War the RAF had to scour their spares inventory for serviceable glass panels to allow some of the Victors to undertake photographic reconnaissance tasks As a matter of interest which jet are you modelling?
  13. stever219

    Armstrong Whitworth Whitley GR. Mk.VII

    This is a very good kit, but you do have to be careful how you put it together. The joint between the rear fuselage sides and wing roots needs some care in assembly to avoid gaps: the undercarriage and engine bearer assemblies need careful lining up too; the bearers have an awkward butt joint in the middle. The engine radiators are a bit of a faff too: on my second and third kits I assembled the forward part of the nacelles and cowlings, complete with radiator shutter, first and used tweezers and a little finger to push the rads as far forward in their housing as possible before applying liquid poly from behind and inside using a needle applicator. Once they’re in the rear section can be assembled The fit of cowlings to leading edges isn’t very special and takes a bit of fettling: I managed to bodge it badly on one of mine, but it’s not too horrendous to recover. Please don’t take my comments as condemnation of this kit; I’ve enjoyed building mine and would quite happily build more given half a chance and the room to display them. Build it and enjoy it!
  14. stever219

    Wellington MkIII camouflage question

    Bomber Command aircraft did not have yellow painted leading edges as did their brethren in Fighter Command as a recognition marking. However many bombers could be seen with yellow de-icing paste on the leading edges of all flying surfaces when moderate to severe icing was expected. I don’t know if this was easily removable and applied on a mission-by-mission basis or if it tended to be left on the aeroplanes for days or seeks on end.
  15. stever219

    Hunter F.6

    The FGA. 9 tail cone wth brake chute fairing is included in the F. 6 kit, however no other FGA. 9 parts, apart from a pair of outer underwing pylons, are included. To model an FGA. 9 you would also need the post Mod 228 (IIRC) flaps with the cut-out to clear the 230-gallon underwing tanks and their associated underwing skin panels (at outer end of flaps) plus the over wing ERU fairings for the outer pylons. The sway braces for the big inboard tanks also aren’t in the F. 6 boxing; the tanks themselves could be robbed from a passing Javelin or Sea Vixen if you want to do a d-I-y conversion.