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About stever219

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  1. Only the fan cowls apparently. There have apparently only been two failures of this nature involving the CFM56-7B engine but both resulted in penetration of the cabin. In at least one of them the penetrator was part of the fan cowl rather than the detached blade itself. Airlines flying 737NGs with this type of engine had already started inspections of the fan stages where the first failure occurred but, oddly perhaps, no-one appears to have thought that blades in other fan stages might also be susceptible to cracking and should also be inspected. Checks were still being undertaken when the second fan failed with the sadly fatal consequences for one passenger.
  2. Can’t disagree: I have a recently-purchased tin of Humbrol 67 that’s been opened twice. On the first occasion, after much stirring, it was just about useable for brush painting an area of a model that won’t be easily visible when finished. On the second occasion it was impossible to get a satisfactory paint-to-thinners ratio that would allow it to be applied by brush and it’s never going to produce an acceptable medium for airbrushing (not that I have one). On the other hand I recently re-opened a tin of Humbrol Authentic HX1 that hasn’t been opened since before I moved to my present home over 21 years ago: two easily thinned coats no problems. If I could get Sovereign Models Colourcoats, which I can’t get through the post, I’d swap to them as I’ve never had any joy with either Revell or Xtracolour enamels. If anyone from Hornsby/Humbrol is reading this PLEASE FOLKS, GET YOUR ACT TOGETHER, GIVE US DECENT QUALITY PAINTS AND STOP ALIENATING LOYAL CUSTOMERS. I’ve used Humbrol for over 50 years and I have never had as many instances of almost totally unusable paint as I have over the last few years. If Aeromaster acrylics were still available I’d use them, with some caveats (their interpretation of RAF Dark Green is far too light) but they aren’t so I can’t and please don’t start me off on brush painting Tamiya acrylics: horrid!
  3. The lo-vis SHARs were, IIRC, Barley Grey overall with Light Aircraft Grey below wings and tailplane. If anyone has the relevant Modeldecal sheet the answer is there.
  4. Further to my grumbling at post 26 above I also get irritated with reviews that simply describe the contents of the box and the suggested sequence of assembling them. What I want to know is are those parts a reasonable, in scale (as far as practicable) facsimile of the full-sized article, is it easy to assemble and, if not, where the problem areas are and how, if at all, they were remedied. It also helps to find out if the instructions are fit for purpose or if there are “gotchas” waiting for the unwary. Finally do the decals do what they’re supposed to and look the part once applied? For a review it doesn’t matter to me which paints were used, how they were applied or whether pre-, post-, in-between-, or up-the-garden-path-shading was applied and whether or not umpty-dozen filters were used, just give me the important bits and I’ll sort out the rest for myself.
  5. There’s no compelling reason to believe that DZ302/G would not have had her serial applied in anything other than the standard form, copies of which are available on a number of commercially available decal sheets as Seahawk has illustrated above.
  6. There are, I believe, plans afoot by at least one “cottage industry” manufacturer to produce the AEC Mandator transporter/loader in 1/72th scale but as resin kits it/they will probably cost around 50% of what we’re going to be shelling out for our shiny new Vulcans next November.
  7. Pity they couldn’t have cut up a Piper Puddlejumper or Cessna Spamcan, but I suppose none of them have the internal volume of the Jetstream that would have enabled filming.
  8. I recall reading of a TriStar that spent several weeks flying around the Middle East in the ‘seventies with very stiff ailerons. Eventually someone was persuaded to take a look at the problem and found a large plank wedges into the starboard wheel bay that was fouling the control runs. Apparently it had been used as an impromptu support during some work in the bay and “forgotten” on completion.
  9. A friend of mine, now sadly deceased, used to chuck mustard sarnies to the gulls from the Dover-Calais ferries: the birds would thank a big chunk and gulp it down and only then discover that doing so was not a good idea, especially as they couldn’t regurgitate them. As for the bicarbonate of soda butties.........
  10. BOAC/BA used a mix of Standard (V.1101, G-ARVA -‘VC and G-ARVE-‘VM) and Super (V.1151, G-ASGA-‘GR). The Standards retained the original wing without inboard leading edge extension and associated extended stub wing whilst the Supers all had extended inboard leading edges and associated extended stub wings. IIRC the stub wings were built integral with the centre fuselage sections and the wings were then attached to these (I hope @bzn20 can confirm or correct this for me).
  11. Little-cars is now modelling-tools.com. Paul has been very helpful to several of our club members, getting them set up and providing extra help, information and demonstrations as necessary.
  12. I haven’t bought a modelling magazine for several years now: I’d stuck with SAM since its inception but for me things really came to a head when Jay Laverty took over as editor and I allowed my subscription to lapse. I used to enjoy articles that explained how and why the modellers had done what they’d done and, better still, where clear photographs of the work in progress were provided. What I don’t want or need are images the size of a very small postage stamp or a blow-by-blow account of pre-, post, and in-between shading, panel line washes and paint chipping. Two dozen images of the completed model may fill pages but they’re no substitute for some decent detail close-upsof how the end result was achieved.
  13. All “silver” Valiants in RAF service were painted High Speed Silver: the only natural metal Valiants were the prototypes WB210 and ‘215.
  14. You may be able to float it back off using water and/or Micro Set and a size 0 or 1 paint brush. Patience and/or bad language may also assist.
  15. From bitter personal experience display stands, particularly those provided by the kit manufacturers, usually produce a very top-heavy display piece which is very vulnerable to being tipped over, thereby removing any delicate protruding bits (DE for @CedB if he’s reading this). I’ve seen many beautiful bespoke display stands/bases that are much better than the kit items but they are either expensive, time-consuming to make or beyond some modellers’ skills or facilities to make to a satisfactory standard. Suspending models from the ceiling renders them susceptible to dust accretion with attendant difficulties and/oror inconvenience in its removal. I have heard of one modeller who wound up on the wrong end of a divorce action when a 1/24th scale Airfix Harrier made an unscheduled vertical landing on an enthroned guest in the smallest room after the cotton/thread/fishing line broke.
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