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ckw

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About ckw

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  1. Just a quick wipe down with IPA before painting ... oops, that was the cellulose thinner bottle Cheers Colin
  2. ckw

    DSLR camera advice?

    Now you can spend £300 on models and still have saved £50 Cheers, Colin
  3. When you discover you left a hole/vent etc. uncovered and find you have sprayed paint on the inside of your transparencies. Engine becomes detached from firewall after you have assembled the cowling around it (both occurred in the last month) Cheers Colin
  4. ckw

    DSLR camera advice?

    If you want to connect the camera to the telescope, then you don't need a lens at all - simply an adaptor suited for the particular telescope. The telescope becomes the lens E.g. https://www.harrisontelescopes.co.uk/acatalog/canon-eos-t-ring.html I'm sure other major brands will have adaptors or use generic adaptors. The lens you selected could not be used with the telescope, only on its own. Cheers Colin
  5. ckw

    DSLR camera advice?

    I think what you mean is "full frame". In some ways this is meaningless out of context. Basically, a full-frame camera uses the same size of frame as a frame of 35mm film. A non-full frame (also known as cropped) means the frame is less the a 35mm film. This is important to know because lens focal lengths are based on 35mm frame size. So on the 6D a 50mm lens will behave as a 50mm lens. On the 77D, which has a crop factor of 1.6, it will be the equivalent of an 80mm lens. Actually in the detail of optical physics there are other differences, but no need to worry about them here. What it does mean in effect is that a crop frame camera will give you more "reach" (which is good for, say, aviation photography), but will limit the impact of wide angle lenses (won't seem so 'panoramic') which is perhaps bad for landscape photography With regard to the Samyang 14mm. I owned one, which I used on the Canon 5D. Optically, its a decent lens for the money, but to be honest its a bit of a specialist item. Firstly, it is an extreme wide angle of a full frame camera. As such it gives images an odd perspective. It could be great for panaromic night sky pics, but it will be extremely sensitive to any light source in the periphery of the view. It would also be next to useless for general photography which you mentioned you wanted. Finally it is a manual focus lens, so won't be able to use the camera's auto focus functions. Typically this is not a lens people start out with, but one they buy for specialist projects Cheers Colin
  6. ckw

    Eduard masks

    Using one right now. Very happy with it, though it is my second. The lens are acrylic (I think) and of good quality. The white frame is a little flimsey - it won't withstand repeated dropping (which is why I'm on my second). Also the arm joints aren't great. This time round I've removed the arms and am using the head band, which seems a much better way to go. This design is marketed by a number of companies on Amazon - look around, you may find a better price. But to be honest, for something I use and rely on everyday, its cheap at £17 Cheers, Colin
  7. ckw

    DSLR camera advice?

    Which is why 2nd hand is a viable option. Buy from a reputable dealer and you should have a 6 month warranty with the purchase - plenty long enough to identify any problems. There is a lot of hype in the market to keep people buying, but you need to ask yourself "what do you need" I had the original Canon 30D (3mp resolution!) when it first came out, and have since owned a number of other Canons, including the pro 1D models. And up to a certain print size, those 30D images still hold up well. In particular note that - more megapixels does not necessarily mean better (but its an easy number for manufacturers to market). I have published magazine covers shot with a "mere" 16mp Olympus OM-D EM-1 which you can pick up used in good condition for £250 (as opposed to the £1000 or so I paid for it new 4 years ago) - recently the major (and costly) improvements to DSLRs have focused (sorry!) on video performance. If video is not important, you will be completely satisfied with older models Cheers Colin
  8. ckw

    DSLR camera advice?

    There are many nuances to astrophotography - you can spend 10s of thousands if you want to really get into it. But, all that is really needed to get decent images of the night sky is a good, solid tripod. Without that, it doesn't really matter what camera or lens you use - you''ll be wasting your time. Cheers, Colin
  9. ckw

    Eduard masks

    How long did you leave the P-masks on for? I have found some masking materials do not like being left on for a prolonged period - the glue seems to set to the surface and detaches from the tape on removal. This could explain people's different experience. I notice on my roll of washi tape it says to remove within 14 days. Personally I tend to use very thin strips of Tamiya tape to mask around the edges - cut in thin strips you can conform to curves - and then fill in with Mr Masking Sol-R. I have used pre-cut masks on occasion (when supplied with the kit) but don't find them that big a time saver - certainly not worth the extra cost. Ironically, on complex glazing with many small panes I actually find my method easier than fiddling around with dozens of tiny masks. The tooth pick method works up to a point - I do this for cleanup if necessary, cutting the toothpick to a chisel edge. Cheers Colin
  10. ckw

    DSLR camera advice?

    First of all, do you have a budget in mind? Are you prepared to consider 2nd hand? Secondly, the DSLR is just a fancy box - its the lens attached to it that really matters! Why a DSLR in particular? Does your brother have any experience with photography? Cheers, Colin
  11. I've taken the pic into Photoshop and measured the values, and yes, they are in fact much closer in tone than they appear - not quite identical, but could be allowing for error in measuring a low res image All in all an interesting example of how deceptive a single photo can be - and in this case we 'know' what the colours should be. Cheers Colin
  12. The yellow ring is obviously different, but so too is the "blue" ring of the roundel ... a much lighter tone than the assumed blue tones of the other aircraft. Given that other tonalities (letters and camo) seem to match, I don't think this is a light/shadow thing. Could be it be that for whatever reason this is not a RAF roundel? Cheers, Colin
  13. Could be, but also ( I have the model, but not made yet) I think the landing gear is modelled in an unloaded state, with the oleo uncompressed. I suspect some minor surgery will be needed to get it to sit right. That aside, a very nicely done kit, the paint work is particularly well executed. Regarding the cabin windows - always a problem to get these to look right with thick plastic sides. I think the only solution is to thin down the walls and then use acetate or Krystal Klear Well that's what I thought when I opened the box ... but I'm sure I read KP saying this was a new tool kit. Cheers Colin
  14. I think in part it depends what scale you work in. For example, in 1/32 scale cockpit details are quite visible and need to be complete and accurate to be convincing. Aftermarket parts can save a lot of time scratchbuilding and tricky painting. At 1/72nd, such detail is hard to see clearly, esp. with the canopy closed and I think you can get away with 'suggesting' the cockpit detail with scrap plastic and wire. Just make it look busy. Its interesting that the Airfix 1/72nd Wellington includes loads of interior detail ... but the instructions say (in effect) "you may decide to leave this out as it won't be visible on the finished model". That said, there are many modellers who get great satisfaction from knowing that the detail is there, even if it is invisible. Cheers Colin
  15. I recently completed the 1/72 version of their Pe 2 and came to the same conclusion. I just couldn't find fault ... and the decals were far superior to Tamiya's! And all this at a much better price than the big names. I have their Pe-8 in the stash, but am waiting for a larger spray booth before I tackle it. If Zvezda choose to tackle some of the more popular types (Spitfire, 109 etc.,) certain 'western' companies are going to need to up their game and lower their prices. All that said, I found the experience of building the Pe-2 a little unsatisfying - it truly was a shake 'n' bake kit - at 1/72 there really wasn't much option for adding visible detail. The only thing missing was seat belts, which wouldn't have been an issue had I chosen to use the supplied crew figures. It felt more like assembling a complex Lego model rather than actual model making which perhaps involves a little more creative input and problem solving. For me, Special Hobby hits the sweet spot just now ... the kits have the potential of resulting in a fine model, but only if you put a bit of extra work into it. Cheers, Colin
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