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ckw

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  1. A late follow up on this topic Leaving defective kit to one side, both mechanical disks and SSDs WILL fail. Its just a question of when. Mechanical disks are hard to predict as something can break at any time. SSDs on the other hand are more predictable if you can find out how much they have been used (they have a life expectancy based on the number of writes performed). Happily SSDs keep a record of how they have been used. I found a free utility called CrystalDiskInfo https://crystalmark.info/en/software/crystaldiskinfo/ which generates a report on any disks on your system, along with a health status. In the case of SSDs it looks at (among other things) the number of writes. Cheers Colin
  2. To my mind what you want is an archive, not a backup. Backup systems are about secure storage which may change (e.g. the contents of a database), possibly frequently which introduces a whole bunch of additional factors which I don't think would concern you. An archive, on the other hand is a write once then (hopefully) forget setup, so performance is not a big issue. I would opt for mechanical disks, and you don't need to shell out for fast ones. If you want to be extra safe, buy duplicate drives and store them in separate locations (to protect against fire, lightning strikes, flood etc). Cheers Colin
  3. Just looking at my bench now, I would add from my most commonly used tools - - fine saw blades (I'd take these instead of sprue snippers if forced) - a scribing tool - a good quality fine, flat file (I wouldn't count sanding sticks or sheets as a 'tool' as there are consumables - ditto cocktail sticks and cotton swabs) Cheers Colin
  4. But isn't this pretty well the case of the 737 Max? As I understand it software flaws (possibly in combination with inadequate training) effectively allowed the computers to crash the aircraft, despite the pilot's best efforts. I think your argument regarding liability is exactly why we will be required to become dependent on AI to 'do our jobs for us' - aircraft crash from time to time, whether from human error or a technological failure. From an actuarial point of view, the human element is harder to predict and quantify ... and can never be eliminated. Computer based systems may fail (and probably because of human errors in design/coding), but bugs can be fixed. I think we will continue moving towards complete computer based design/production/operation from conceptualisation through to production and operation. It will not result in incident free operations, but those incidents will be much more quantifiable - costs of foolproofing everything will be balanced against an acceptable cost of failure. BTW - I don't think this is a 'good thing', but an unavoidable evolution unless we abandon our current socio-economic models. Every civilization to date seems to have contained the seeds of its own downfall. We appear to be committed by the fundamentals of our current civilization to eliminate the human factor where possible, and I don't see how that can be changed - the genie never goes back in the bottle. Cheers Colin
  5. I get where the OP is coming from. While not disagreeing with any of the answers, it is true that aeronautical design has evolved from inspired hunches to computer (and budget!) driven optimisation. If we look at, say WWII single engine fighters, while the general layout is similar, the Me 109, Hurricane, Spitfire, etc. are quite different solutions to a similar problem. It would be interesting to see what would happen if you took the specification for the Hurricane and Spitfire and stuffed it into a supercomputer - with parameters for materials and production methods of the time - and see what emerged. Would it look like either aircraft, a bit of both, or something very different? And if you could then build and fly it. how would it compare? Cheers Colin
  6. Of the 2 I would say colourcoats are the better option for brush painting BUT as you are not in the UK, getting hold of them may not be so easy ... and certainly expensive! I'm not a fan of brushing with acrylics - obviously it can be done, and done well but requires a different methodology to using enamels. Recently I have tried a couple of tins of Revell enamel - simply becuase they were the only thing available locally in the colours I needed. Pleasantly surprised - a bit thick, but easily thinned, Brushed very nicely. Of course having only tried a couple of tins I can't comment on the consistency of the product. Cheers Colin
  7. i don't think either company have done themselves favours by, in the case of Revell, reboxing other company's kits which can be far below the standard of Revells best or, in the case of Airfix, reissuing old (sometimes very old) kits which are often shelved alongside their more recent (and far better) kits. I could see that a novice, unaware of these practices could buy one of the poorer kits and get a negative view of the brand in general. Cheers Colin
  8. The problem is that as readers we are very good at seeing what we expect to see rather than what is actually on the page ( have a look at https://www.independent.co.uk/news/science/jumbled-words-letters-puzzle-cambridge-a6889811.html) This makes proof reading difficult. A long time ago I had a part time job proof reading theses (not a lot of fun!). An old hand passed on a tip to me - read it backwards! Because the words are then out of context, you can't read what you expect to read so typos become much more obvious. Cheers Colin
  9. As you can see i went with PRU blue top sides as, well it's something different and the research and comments in this thread led me to believe that while other schemes might be correct, there is nothing to prove this one is wrong! An enjoyable build by the way - certainly compared to the Dragon monster I'd previously attempted and given up on! Cheers Colin
  10. Is that actually the case? I could understand 'occasional' modellers jumping around, but I always thought more obsessive modellers stuck to one scale (with perhaps the odd foray into something else). The imperial system makes sense to me but I have no problem with metric. However I'd hate to see 1/72 disappear as I've been building to that scale all my life. For me 1/72nd is an ideal scale for aircraft as you can build and display the smallest and largest prototypes without to much trouble and display them together - sometimes it can be quite surprising to see the difference sizes of aircraft in a constant scale collection. Cheers Colin
  11. The plastic containers will help, and fuji film is pretty stable. However over time and changes in temperature (heat is the enemy) you may find the colours have shifted or faded. You may also find some fogging and less detail/increased graininess. Another problem is that having the film tightly wound in a roll for 30+ years may make it difficult to unwind - indeed heat may have caused the emulsion to 'weld' into a solid cylinder. I'm afraid I can't recommend a processor - when I did shoot film, I processed them myself. But I would suggest these will need to be handled by a specialist, not your average machine based photolab as simply extracting the film from the canister may be tricky. Provided you get some sort of image Photoshop (other brands - some free - are available) can these days perform near miracles in restoring images. Worst case, as long as there is something on the film you should be able to convert them to a decent B&W image. Cheers Colin
  12. Agree with much of what has been said regarding scale effect - I think part of the problem is that pure black against a light background (or vice versa) results in too much contrast, so unless that contrast can be toned down it doesn't look quite right. Another thing I consider is the nature of the decals themselves - if, when applying the primary decals, I notice any tendency toward silvering I usually ignore most of the tiny stencilling - to my mind a silvered stencil decal is much much worse than no decal at all! Cheers Colin
  13. Surely it should be Mania =(items in stock + items on order + items on wishlist + 1) / items actually required Cheers Colin
  14. yes I've learned that lesson the hard way. Now I am very careful to keep the chair exactly where it is so I can stand up and step on the canopy instead Cheers Colin
  15. Many years ago I used pollyfilla on a plywood base to create a sea scene. It worked pretty well, but after a couple of years, the pollyfilla had cracked in places and also warped the base slightly. It may well be the MDF will not be affected in the same way, perhaps others can comment on that. Cheers Colin
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