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Yes - most crashes are due to more than one factor. If it is pilot error, there's often a reason why the pilot was distracted/lost focus at a critical time. Cheers Colin

True but I don't think the Ofla comes with spare blades (Tamiya comes with 2) making it much better value. In fact, the handle is I think the worst feature and can prevent you getting into tight corners. I just use the blades without the handle. I still use this (even though I have the expensive engraving blades as well). It serves well for most purposes Cheers Colin

I have a set of something similar. The key thing is that the name is misleading. These are not scribers, they are chisels and should be used as such - i.e the blade flat on the surface and pushed (like a wood chisel). They will produce a neat notch that way, and have their uses, but scribing a panel line is not one of them. A proper scriber has a sort of hook shaped blade that you can drag towards you. Cheers Colin

There are plenty of gadgets you can buy for modelling which can easily be achieved in other ways without the expense. Scribing tools do not fall into that category - they save time and produce a better more reliable result, and with a bit of practice, are easier to use. A basic tamiya plastic scriber costs about £8 and worth every penny. Some will say it produces too wide a line, but you can also get Tamiya engraving blades as fine as 0.1mm (though these are much more expensive). These days I try and buy fewer additions to the already adequate stash, and instead divert model money into quality tools. This week I invested in a decent pair of photo etch scissors and I'm kicking myself for struggling without them for so long. Cheers Colin

I haven't been for 10 years or so, but attended regularly before that - with an early start, getting in was seldom an issue. But leaving!! I remember one year getting back to the car at 6 at not getting out the carpark till midnight - some heavy rain had made some routes unusable and lots of cars got stuck. Other big shows like Farnborough and Duxford always seemed better organised when it came to parking. Nowadays I don't bother with big shows - restrictions on flying displays have made them a shadow of events in the 90s and 00s (of course there are good reasons for that - but entertainment value isn't one of them). Cheers Colin

Well exactly - he had to image it Cheers Colin

Hard to explain out of context ... but I guess it would be an appropriate response to anyone getting carried away, verging on political etc. etc. Cheers Colin

Yes worth a watch ... but you do realise it's a documentary don't you? Cheers Colin

I think this is the problem - given that we are a multi culture/multi first language site, too many icons leads to confusion and potential mis-use/mis-interpretation. I don't see the point of the love icon. If someone likes something that much, then take the time to put it in words. Similarly the 'I agree' check box - if I don't use it am I dis-agreeing? But then I'm an old grumpy git. On WhatsApp I have gadzillions of icons available to me. I use 2. Most of the rest I'm not even certain what they mean (or more importantly, might mean to the recipient. Cheers Colin

I forgot to mention - one of the advantages of the Super Metallic range is that you can use enamel based washes on them without affecting the base coat - that doesn't apply for AK Xtreme (as it is enamel based) Cheers Colin

Which ones? The standard range I found near useless, but the Metal Cote range is better. That said, AK Extreme metal is in a different league (and airbrush ready out the bottle) - however I'm gradually moving to the Super Metallics range. I don't think the final finish is any better than AK, but they seem tougher (more masking tolerant) and dry quicker. Cheers Colin

I think another big cost factor is liability - if the instrument (of any kind) gives a faulty reading, does the manufacturer accept any liability for any consequential losses? It amuses me that the small print on many cheap consumer products pretty much invalidates the reason you bought it. Cheers Colin

This weekend I bought some sanding sticks by a certain manufacturer which were labelled as 400/600 grit. Compared to sticks I have from a different manufacturer, they are much finer than I expected (roughly 800/1000 based on some other sanding sheets I have). So I wonder is there any 'standard' for grit specs on sandpaper, or is it all relative in a given manufacturer's range? This was of course not a problem when you could pick up such things in a local shop, but now with so much ordered online it is a bit of an issue as unless you stick with known maker, it seems to be a bit pot luck as to what you receive. Also, do the grit ratings vary depending on the material used or should it be material independent? Cheers Colin

MRP is the only one that I've used that is genuinely airbrush ready - works out the jar with a .2 needle. Great stuff - but it is a lacquer which might not suit everyone. Cheers Colin

I suspect you may have been too heavy with the spray in some areas, allowing the matt coat to interact with the gloss coat (which itself may have been insufficiently cured). To get an even finish, it is important to use a light, even spray across the model. In this situation two or more light sprays (with drying in between) is the best course of action. If the first coat is not sufficiently matt, add another until you get the result you want. A heavy coat will more than likely dry with an uneven finish and/or interact with previous paint layers as the thinner content can reactivate them. As to fix - allow current paint to cure for a couple of days, then recoat with matt - use a very light spray Cheers Colin