Retired Bob

Quality work as usual, it looks superb.

Having served in Germany during my time in the RAF, I agree that leaving off the Hakenkreuz from the box art is logical for selling the kit in certain countries around the world where the image is banned. For me, leaving off the symbol on my models is inaccurate, why spend time and money building a scale replica only to leave off a symbol because it represented an evil cause. To me, that is removing their symbol so that their evil will get forgotten. Years ago, I displayed some models at a model show in Frankfurt along with models made by some of my German friends from the Cologne Pirates modeller group. I was told to cover the Hakenkreuz on all my WW2 German aircraft models or risk a fine for each one displayed. My friends argued my cause but to no avail, so I covered them with squares of masking tape, I asked about the Swastika kill marks on the Spitfire, I didn't want six fines for some small Hakenkreuz that were on display. I was told they are dead Nazi's so they are permitted, go figure!

I also have done that to make some differences between my T-34 models. Adding the air recognition markings to the turret can also add some interest to a single colour tank as well. All these old Tamiya T-34's still have the kit rubber band tracks. The only problem with the mudguards removed is, it's more noticeable that the track links bend around the idler and sprocket instead of being flat sections.

Very impressive photographs, a very moving tribute.

Thanks for the clarification, I obviously made an assumption on which engine was repainted. My late Brother sent me this photo, taken just before the Platinum Jubilee Celebration. As can be seen, number 70 and no name displayed.

Hi Francis, looking at your build photo reminded me of another thing that can be easily sorted. The two lugs that stick out at the front of the hull are a post war modification, Tamiya obviously looked at a preserved T-34 that had been upgraded. Its easy to snip them off and fill any gap and sand down to keep the hull profile smooth. The upper hull tow hooks are correct. When I built these Tamiya kits back in the 80s I only had nylon mesh to use for the rear engine deck. Later, with the help of the internet I found better material. Aber produce various brass mesh that looks much better. I got these from Hannants, the pack S 08 was the size of mesh I used in the earlier photo. Here are the packs of Dragon magic tracks that came with their T-34 kits. If Dragon changed their tracks to the DS one piece tracks I didn't buy any. They don't fully interlock like workable track links but I assemble them in lengths and run Tet glue into all the joints. While they are sill flexible I mould them to the shape of the wheels. There isn't much sag with T-34 tracks, I've assembled two upper and two lower lengths and will join them with short lengths while they are still flexible. The problem with this method is getting the various lengths to join perfectly around the idlers, sprockets and wheels. The pattern on these tracks confused me at first, I had never seen them before. That white covered book I've got on the T-34 contained the information, this pattern were cast for a new upgraded T-34 version that was planned called the T-34M. It was abandoned after the German invasion because of cost and delays it would cause to production. The tracks were then used on regular T-34/76 versions.

Hi Alex, well I imagine trying to google a UK fire hydrant would end in some swearing. That's because we don't have them! The UK system has small cast metal covers on the pavement (sidewalk) and a yellow sign with a black 'H' directing the fire services to it's location. I could post a photo but it's not going to help to replace a US type fire hydrant, that's why I suggested a sitting dog. Sorry to cause any upset to your fabulous diorama, as you mentioned about the armoured car, it's a mix of details, why not have a fire hydrant for a splash of colour, or perhaps color?

Very impressive diorama and so thought provoking as well, the bravado and patriotism at the front of the building and the stark reality of war at the back. (I hate to pick a fault but, the red American style fire hydrant looks so wrong for a British setting, you could replace it with a sitting dog)

Nice work with the Jaguar, glad to see some RBF tags being used.

I'm using Hobby Photo Host for displaying my photos so there shouldn't be a problem John.

Thanks for that information Peter. Just shows that there is always a possibility of an exception. Just like the Coronation Scots/Duchess class, there should not have been one after de-streamlining in lined LMS Crimson Lake with smoke deflectors fitted. When they went into shop for the smoke deflectors they should have been repainted LMS lined black. However, The engine, Duchess of Buccleuch, having acquired its smoke deflectors returned to steam for a short time until it could be repainted and was photographed in that scheme. Hence Hornby produced a loco of Duchess of Buccleuch with smoke deflectors in LMS lined Crimson Lake.

I bought a set of the T-Rex 3D printed late production tracks, I already had the 18 tooth sprockets in the Dragon late production King Tiger kit I was building. They assembled very easily and as can be seen, they fitted around the Dragon kit sprocket very well.

Ah! the memories of building these old Tamiya T-34 kits have come flooding back. One more tip I can offer, the metal axle on the front idlers sits in oval holes in the hull to allow the motorised version to adjust the the track tension. Because the vinyl tracks are quite tight fitting, they bend the non-motorised metal axle back until the idlers touch the front wheels. T o avoid this effect, use some stretched sprue or similar to fill the rear of the oval holes in the hull so the idlers on the metal axle cannot be pulled back.

In total agreement, I, unfortunately bit off more than I could chew with all my builds and reading two books but, I have learned a lot. The Crocodiles having hedgerow cutters was a revelation and I still have my Tamiya Crocodile in the Tamiya GB to finish. Inevitably what caused my builds to grind to a halt was the conflicting information that I read in the books. All tanks had names starting with 'S' in blue, I couldn't find any blue lettering to use and apart from two photos that showed 'Scot' and 'Sandling' as named tanks, all other photos showed no names or any other markings, easy to do but, makes them look unfinished. Enough of my excuses. A big thanks to @ColonelKrypton and @bigfoot for hosting this GB. I just about managed to avoid buying anymore Churchill kits but will get these other kits finished and posted in an RFI thread.

The ballast rounds were special cast missile bodies with no provision to fit any wings, fins or wave guides. Painted Oxford Blue with no bands of any other colour, The 'radome' shape at the front and the tail cone were blue anodised aluminium fairings that were riveted on, easily replaceable if they became damaged. They were carried to maintain the aircrafts centre of gravity. A pair of Oxford Blue ballast missiles in the forward missile bays, the Sidewinder missile is an acquisition round, it has a live seeker head so that it can lock onto targets but the body is an inert tube with no warhead or rocket motor, wings or fins. Because it has a working seeker head section there are pink bands around the body tube to inform that is the only hazard with this missile. It should have a yellow protective cap fitted over the seeker head to prevent it being damaged. The white rectangle on the ballast round above will be for a unit applied serial number, like the large number 20 on the gun pod, they are applied to keep track of unit assets, in this case at RAF Coningsby. (FYI no cement or concrete is ever used to balance weapons or aircraft, it would be affected by vibration, humidity and temperature changes. Lead is used, bolted into position if ballast weight is required)