Hannes

That´s a nice car too! 571 horsepowers without any turbo/compressor. Many greetings! Hannes

The restauration of the original car is shown in the video above. Great work, dear Thierry!

Part 2 Fiat Mefistofeles 1/12 Italeri - Work In Progress - Vehicles - Britmodeller.com On Sam´s thread you will also find some hints for improving your Mef. On the second drawing I made you will see the improvements of the frontal axis system including the dampers and struts. If you follow the booklet, your build will become wrong ! F.I. ; there are 2 blades up on the right damper and not three and it´s situated higher. There´s also a 5th damper directly behind the frontal axis. The mounting points are wrong and must get altered. If you decided to participate in a community, why not learn from other members? Our common struggle for truth regarding the Fiat 806 was leading to a result, that noone could have achieved as a lone wolf.

Dear Steve, as I said above, this kit isn´t correct at all and if you build it oob with only some improvements, the result won´t be satisfying. This is an old kit and Protar was known as a slip-shod company regarding fidelity at that time. This means, you have to alter a lot and there are many pics in the net which could help to do that. My own version is not perfect but I took the time to erase many of the mistakes. Regarding the webbing: I was wrapping thin brown duct tape ( for parcels) cut in 2 mm strips around the spots where the webbing should be situated. This way I could prevent the shining through of the black background. I bought thin yarn in 2 brownish colors ( a darker and a lighter version) and was wrapping it tightly around these spots . They were secured by very very tiny drops of superglue on the downside of the springs. Finally I secured the whole webbing by soaking it with Humbrol´s liquid clear by a brush. On page 185 of the "Fiat 806 research and scratchbuild"-thread you will find a drawing I made for building a cradle with the correct measures. I highly recommend to do that. Many greetings! Hannes

This kit is a new edition of the 70´s Protar metal version and was not improved at all. If you want to build a realistic version, a lot of alterings are required and the research will take much more time than the construction itself. I highly recommend to build a cradle. If you´re interested in some advices, please tell me. Hannes

Yes, this guy is some kind of wizard or modeller god. In the video below we can see how he was modelling the driver and that´s really breathtaking. Every wrinkle and tension on the leather dress is correct and the figure is anatomically perfect 100 per cent. I´m a sculptor too and I know how hard it is to achieve this result in 1:12 scale. He was even representing the eyeballs! (and did hide the face inside the helmet later on and that´s funny!)

I´m not a motorcycle builder but I found this video from a very talented Japanese Modeller. It´s a great pleasure to watch him and it could probably help you to improve some details.

Dear Thierry, Here we can see one of the earliest civil version of this great car . It was built in 1954, the year of my birth. Many greetings! Hannes

Many thanks for your very kind comments! I´m sure that there are far better modellers out there than myself but I´m a sculptor and therefore I need sharp eyes. Not everything I made is correct though due the limited amount of pictures and informations when I built this model 6 years ago. In the meantime I moved from Germany to Hungary and I hope that I will have the time next year to continue with the construction of my 806 like you can see in our large "Fiat 806 research and scratchbuilds"- thread.

Dear Harvey, I know how you feel. In my case there were political reasons and so I left Germany and moved to Hungary in 2019. Last week I found my unfinished model again in one of the numerous boxes in the attic. In the meantime we had to restore the house we bought and built another small one in our garden. It will be finished at the end of the year and hopefully I will have the time and can go on with my construction. I wish you all the best and I´m sure that your slump will vanish and your outstanding model will become a great success! PS: The PM- function doesn´t work for me on this forum since about a year, that´s why I couldn´t contact you directly. Hannes

The hole for the crank is not central situated! It´s on the right side and connected to the frame. These details are important for a realistic model and I hope that my advice will help to improve your otherwise beautiful work.

The button on the upper right spoke of the steering wheel was a switch for turning off the ignition completely.There must have been cables behind that spoke leading to the center of the wheel where the ignition could get adjusted. The background: Some years ago a metal piece was blocking the butterfly valve of the carburettor in an 805 driven by Bordino and caused permanent high revolutions of the engine. If you press the clutch in this situation, the engine will explode in no time, therefore it´s safer to turn off the power.

The brake system is very well explained by Roy on page 204 of the research and scatchbuilds thread. Many greetings! Hannes

My late reaction is not my fault! As it seems it takes some days till your posts are visible here in the Hungarian internet, dear Harvey. Maybe some censorship as it happened very often in the last months?😉 First of all I want to say: Congratulations! You solved the tyre problems very clever And your b/w photos touch me deeply as a nostalgia fan. Plaster is needed for sculptural castings and concrete or resin with glass-fibers are also possible solutions for bigger pieces as a supporting material. But your Lego-system works great for small parts. Lego means "play well" and that´s exactly, what you did. Many greetings! Hannes