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Sloucher

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About Sloucher

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  • Birthday 09/16/1951

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  1. So, over the last couple of days I decided it was about time to solve the steering trackrods alignment issue once and for all. My first attempt at introducing a twist into the rods however, failed dismally at the first hurdle! Hot water didn't get them hot enough to twist, and a hot air gun sort of made them a bit, well, droopy!! Further manipulation started a fatigue crack which soon became an out and out break. I Broke It! I decided at that point the best idea then was to cut the actual rod ends off, insert them into a short length of 2mm thinwall brass tube and then use a length of suitable diameter (1.5mm) brass rod as the actual track rod. I could then adjust the angle of the rod ends to any angle I wanted. Rod Bits Making a Rod For My Own Back However, before I settled on the angle of dangle, I thought I'd have another look at the cause of the wrong angle at the actual steering rack. Long story short, after leaving it for a few hours in the freezer, I started to prise apart the steering rack to investigate. Freezer time was a waste of time, as it took just seconds to get back to room temperature and then a good hour to prise apart - very carefully! Anyway, the answer to the mal-aligned steering soon became very obvious. The inside of the "tube" of the steering rack, when both halves were joined together, was not circular but oval, and hence was pinching the steering rod and wedging it into the wrong orientation. Judicious use of a small round file soon solved the problem. Carefully glued back together the refurbished rack now had an unexpected bonus - the steering now actually operates - win, win! It did mean of course that my work on the trackrods had not actually been necessary, but to be honest, I think my fabricated rods (with no introduced angle) look more prototypical than the kit supplied ones, and are certainly stronger, so another win! Working Rack and Track Rods After taking a break to watch the qualifying sessions for the British Grand Prix, I then picked up the engine and gearbox to make a change from tweaking the chassis tub. All went together quite well with the help of a bit of fettling here and there. One problem that niggled me for ages until I had an "Aha!" moment was that the gearbox sump/base panel (bottom cover) just wouldn't fit without a large gap between the flanges at the front. The "Aha" moment came when I was puzzling over why filing the flanges as flat as a billiard table wasn't solving the problem, and re-examined the parts. The actual problem was that the two parallel ribs on the inside of the gearbox bottom cover designed to locate it squarely on the gearbox was actually bottoming out on the internal location posts of the gearbox. A few quick passes of the already useful small round file on the locating ribs solved the problem. Gearbox Locating Posts Mod to the Gearbox Bottom Cover Locating Ribs I'm now working on filling the rather prominent, but awkwardly positioned gap along the top of the gearbox. Unfortunately, one side is slightly proud of the other as well as there being the gap between them. With the suspension mounts having to have been mounted during the assembly of the two engine/gearbox halves, its now a very tight access to get any tools in there. Awkward! Well, if nothing else, this kit is making me think on my feet!! To infinity and.........
  2. Actually @Schwarz-Brot and @Pouln, I would suggest that the current size and shape (square headed) is just fine for the 1:8 scale Pocher 8C Monza as I think they are slightly oversize for the 1:12 Italeri.
  3. I must admit, I had thought about doing just that @Codger, but I'd promised myself that I'd keep this build as near "out of the box" as possible . However, thats not to say I never break promises . I may choose a halfway house eventually and drill out the kit eyes to fit some brass rod. I'll then connect them back together with the brass rod glued into them, albeit with the necessary axial offset. First though I'll try hot water, brute force (not too much!) and a great deal of ignorance .
  4. So, I've made a little more progress with the 179, but it's fighting me every inch of the way! Before the obligatory photos, I'll explain some of the pitfalls with this kit to forewarn any potential builders. There is a lot, and I mean a LOT of shrinkage, cavitation and flash with this kit, especially on the sprue with the front suspension arms. I suppose I should have expected it, as the moulds must be quite long in the tooth now, bearing in mind that even though Italeri only released this kit in about 2018, it's been around since being originally produced by Protar in 1983, so 37 years ago! My main fitting annoyance, so far, has been (or still is at the time of writing) the steering rack. As I mentioned before, I've glued it fixed so it doesn't actually operate, but in addition to that, when placed into position with the steering shaft located in the under dashboard mount, the clevises at the end of the steering rods finish up at an angle instead of horizontal as per prototype. This means I'm going to have to introduce an axial twist along the steering arms so they meet the wheel upright at the correct angle, i.e. horizontal. Hmmmm, That Angle's Not Right! The only other annoying hitch so far has been the shrinkage in the instrument decal locations on the dashboard. If I'd just applied the decals without addressing this issue, they would have been very concave, so it was a matter of filling the sink holes and sanding them flat using abrasive paper glued to the bottom of a couple of suitable size drills. My Special Tools (Drills with Abrasive Paper Stuck to Them!) Other than that, its just been a matter of using a lot of aluminium colour paint!! Unfortunately, my best aluminium colour paint is a solvent based paint, and as the bodywork is the only area I plan on using solvent based paints, Tamiya TS-17 rattle can is plenty good enough for this "out of the box" build. Bottom Half of Chassis Tub The instructions suggest black as the colour for the master cylinders, but I disagree. All the photos I've seen show polypropolyne type resevoirs which are an off white colour with black caps. Interestingly, most of my reference photos also show an pressed sheet aluminium structure in front of the cylinders with the fire extinguisher mounted on the front of it. Hey ho, must remember this is "out of the box" and no mods!! Top Half of Chassis Trial Fit Believe me, those black netting type covers on the top and bottom of the radiators are a right b^%$r to glue on!! Instruments In Place I've not installed any of the pipework yet, even though its all been trial fitted. When messing around trying to sort out the steering rack issue, they just kept getting in the way, so I've left them off until such time as their locations are in danger of becoming inaccessible! I intend making a start on the engine next. Again, as was my original intention with the 8c (RIP), this won't be a pristine museum quality representation of the car, more a mid season, raced look. Onwards and upwards!
  5. @Schwarz-Brot, it will be my pleasure Here are a few photographs of the incomplete build of my 8C, showing the wirelocking bolts: They certainly added that missing element to the Italeri model. I just wish I'd been able to finish it!
  6. Its been a week or two, but I have at last made a tentative start on the 179. I've been spending time trying to resuscitate the 8C, first with some success, but latterly not so well. Its now residing in a black plastic bin bag - in several large pieces! Long story, not part of this build, but lets just say I won't be buying any more of Vallejo's decal fix and decal set! Anyway, onto the 179 build. After looking this kit over, and bearing in mind my wasted efforts to detail the 8C, I've decided to make this model almost "out of the box" and not fret over detailing. The moulds for this model are obviously so old that the detail is starting to blur on some parts and the flash and ejector marks are going to make things more difficult than they should be anyway. The fit of parts is nothing to write home about either!! So, onward and upward. I've decided to build the 179C variant, probably the one driven by Bruno Giacomelli in the 1980 season. I'm going to use mainly Tamiya acrylics except for the main body panels. They will be painted using Zero Paints colour matched fluorescent red and white paint set, which is solvent based. I may use the odd brushfull of Revell paints for some of the small detail stuff. Not a great deal done yet (other than the parts in the attached photo). The steering rack didn't go together too well, as it is supposed to actually work, but the rack and pinion are a bit crude and the fit of it all was a bit tight so I've glued it up solid. Who needs working steering on a static model anyway! I still need to tidy up the paint edges of the steel straps. More reports and whinges as progress is made
  7. Well, after totally ruining my 3 month build of the Italeri Alfa Romeo 8C 2300 Monza (see below), it's got hidden away in a box until I can pluck up the courage to look at it again without crying. I've decided instead to have a go at spoiling a different Alfa kit I have in my stash instead, an Alfa Romeo 179C. This next build will probably be of the 179C that was driven by either Mario Andretti or Bruno Giacomelli back in 1981. My original plan was to have an Alfa Romeo racing car from the early days and one from nearer to today. Unfortunately, due to my ham fistedness with an airbrush and unfortunate accident with a Q-tip (do NOT ask!), its now just going to be the later car! As per usual, I'll be totally ignoring the order of build as advised in the instructions and so will probably end up with lots of containers all awaiting detail painting! I'll be using Zero Paints to apply the finishing colours but first a lot of research has to be done as I'll probably be adding and amending parts as I go along if the 8C was anything to go by! Build progress photos to follow - when I actually do make some progress!
  8. Hi @Coors54. I've seen Fernando Pinto's facebook page, but have no idea how to find out what they produce! There's a whole load of photos but I want to see what they produce and prices, and have no idea of either!
  9. Just received the 3d printed wire-locking bolts from @Schwarz-Brot. They are absolutely perfect! Big shout out to Jan, many thanks mate
  10. Absolutely superb Renek. I have this kit too, so I can see just how much work you have put into your build. Well done
  11. Absolutely agree with the posts above. A superb build that has given me, for one, that incentive I needed to get mine finished as well. Look forward to seeing all the finished build photos
  12. Looks very good @Renek. Are you going to scratch build the ignition advance mechanism? I'm part way through that process! Its just a pity that no one does any aftermarket pieces for this 1:12 kit in the same way they do for the 1:8 Pocher kit!
  13. Haha , I was going to say that Kynar wire is a thin, very flexible but very strong, single stranded wire with heat proof insulation but @Schwarz-Brot beat me to it Edit: Its usually around 30 AWG in thickness (0, 25mm). Your wire-locking looks superb @Renek
  14. Love the new ignition tube @Renek. Seeing it convince me I should do the same! I made mine from aluminium tube (I had some 3mm tubing to hand), but have tried to get away with using the end fittings from the original plastic version two-pack epoxied into place. I used some very thin wire called Kynar wire to represent the ignition leads as not only is it more scale (in my opinion), it also allow the wires to be fed through the tube exactly as per prototype. I theory that means you could have a working ignition system, but perhaps thats a step to far .
  15. I too was shocked at the price from Shapeway, maybe they only interested in large scale orders now! I did find a printer in the UK who could print 144 bolts for just £2:50 (approx the same in Euros), but had a minimum order charge of £40 and at least £5 for shipping, so I'm currently awaiting a quote from another printer. Having said that however, as @Schwarz-Brot. has already had some of these bolts made, there doesn't seem to be much point in me "re-inventing the wheel", so I too would love to see some photos of your bolts first @Schwarz-Brot, before commiting to getting some printed!
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