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rob Lyttle

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  1. Afraid I missed this entirely earlier in the year, but I'll follow along from here, John!
  2. Nice one, slippers, no going back now! So for example, the rev counter has a hole right through the middle, so it's been glued to thin pot-wall styrene for a top surface before the decal was applied, No hole or pit behind the decal now This is a great picture... I think that is Bob McIntire on the right, and obvs an Italian Style-meister with him in an excellent coat. But look at the bike...... WOW! I was looking for period references for the rear suspension units, and on the basis of this and a few others, I'm sticking with the kit pieces supplied. So, heading for the back wheel, and that means one major issue. To sort out the chainwheel sprocket, I need to have a chain. After delaying for as long as I could, I took a shot at the chain kit supplied in the Moto Guzzi kit. Here's a reminder, There's my Special Tool, a nail let into the end of a wooden dowel. And a balsa board with a groove so the thing can sit flat while it's worked on. I'm afraid the result isn't as hoped for. The problem is, you don't know if the riveting action has succeeded on every pin until you start cutting the support frames to release the chain section. And by then, it's too late.... Well, the point is if I want to share a chain between the Gilera and the Guzzi, I'd need a modified or different chainwheel as the Gilera part is clearly a different pitch. (I'm assuming the Guzzi kit part is designed and made to suit the pitch of the chain..... Could be an assumption too far...... ) I'd need a decent section of finished chain to check this, and I ain't got one yet..... Still, onwards and upwards. I'll see what I can save here
  3. Well, @slippers, thanks for that, but I'm just messing around with bits of wire and plastic sheet.. I suppose I've accumulated a few handy items along the way, and methods and ideas I have learnt from being on this site. A few builders don't even bother with a kit, they just start with some good drawings.....! Some are into 3D design and printing. Are you familiar with Muller Corner yoghurt? (don't know where you are). Their pots, unlike most packaging, are white polystyrene and are good for our use. Plus you get thick areas and thin flat walls, and ready shaped corners and curves. Bits of wire and metal tubes are often useful, especially tubes that fit neatly into the next bigger size. But yeah, just messing around with bits of plastic....
  4. Thanks for the info @Fastcat. Well, I'm in for a penny now. I imagine these machines were developed and modified on a regular basis, between one GP and the next event, certainly season by season. And if more braking power was required, or just the track was dry on the day in question, you could opt for the double brake up front. Only speculation, this. Not that I'm fussing, just having taken some reference pictures to help me out, I'm referring to them probably more than necessary. Rear suspension units is the next thing in line. My pictures of the Museum bike show this.... ..... which isn't what the kit is offering. But then it's only 5 minutes work to swap one type for another if the rider wanted a change . So I'll probably assemble the kit parts and try them out. One more little addition is a pair of big chrome hex nuts or caps on top of the forks. There's a kit on supplied for the steering head position which probably is a steering damper, which will go on in a minute..
  5. I think I have the basics of a solution to the front brakes problem. I realised that the hub had to come out and be repurposed for the brake plate. After many tiny holes were done by hand using a pin vice, and a bit of blade work, the beast came out. The white disc then fits in the back of the hub.... .... And the extracted piece forms the basis of the plate, complete with the important overall domed shape. The front air intake is the main item Rather than removing more plastic inside the intake, I went for the simpler solution. Very little is to be gained from opening up the inside here, and much to be lost. I have a plan to use gauze on the intake anyway, and now I have 2 to do. There's another outlet vent at the back of the brake plate and a few details to sort incl operating arms, and I got to remember to make a left and a right side. But I think I'm sorted for the main structure
  6. Oh no, I thought to myself, the front brake is on the wrong side......! The reality of the situation has finally dawned, and this bike is fitted with twin leading shoe front brakes on BOTH sides. Before I start hacking at the wheel hub, I'm going to investigate the possibility of cloning the example supplied. If it's a challenge too far I'll just forget the idea and build it as it comes. With the fairing fitted there is not a great deal to be seen, but I fancy having a go to see if it can be done. It's always helpful to have a ready made example to work from
  7. There are some periods of grim disappointment and frustration with this kit, and moments of simple click together fun. I'm having difficulty with the wires and cables. The stuff supplied, red for HT leads and black for brakes, clutch etc, are quite bendy, especially with a bit of warmth. But they are solid in cross section and what is required is tubing, so that they push onto the various fittings. Getting 5 mounted on the distributor is a bit of a nightmare. It could have been so much easier..... The rear swinging arm and the front forks assembly, on the other hand, basically click together and the fit is OK. Nothing wrong with it. Here's the Museum front end, Bearing in mind that things are just clipped together and dry fitted, I think that will do There's even an option there for me to crack on with the general build and leave any thoughts of respoking wheels until another day, when I'm bored and looking for trouble... That's all still totally dismantle-able in the wheel area.
  8. Thought I'd better try to get the frame assembled around the engine unit. And it's in.... It makes for quite an awkward assembly that rolls around and can't stand up in any way, so temporary use of the stand is made and a sprue leg in the steering head.... At least it isn't rolling around the mat, while I figure out the next step.
  9. Yes, Dave, it's the fact that they (or he....) took the trouble and made the effort to make them at all is the thing that is worth celebrating.. No guns, no bombs or missiles, no military tat or celebration of weapons of killing and destruction..... Just fabulous and beautiful machines. I spent several happy hours bashing away on the old Airfix Dakota model, the awful gunship version, putting it back to a half decent DC3 airliner in Lufthansa colours. Rewarding project! Speaking of happy hours bashing away, I have some small progress. This is the prototype throttle arm for a carb. Then I made some more in a little production line, trying to keep them all the same. Plus an operating arm, trimmed the brass shaft to a better length and slid them together one by one like this.... Just the attachments to the bits of stretch sprue that are inserted in the tops of the 4 carbs, and we're sorted. Don't know how much will be noticeable in the long run - it is hard enough trying to get a picture of the arrangement on the real thing even with the fairing removed, Still, it's a bit of tinkering fun and as Dave said, at least Protar supplies the basics that you can try things out on.
  10. I would say that is the case. All the navy stuff categorised under navy, and the army's kit under their own listing . Maybe they issued their own publicity material? Look at that list from @ColinChipmunkfan.... All made here!
  11. I decided to modify the gearbox /drive sprocket area by blanking off the void, The lollipop item is a bit rough but it fits in the opening. I drilled through the centre of the clutch housing and through the new insert to take a length of Ali tube. This includes the removal of the pully wheel drive on its stub axle. So whatever I make as the drive sprocket will be mounted on the Ali tube. It's removable for now and may remain so until the clutch operating arm is fitted. Progress on the carbs.... Two pairs assembled, I modified the fuel pipe connector on each tank to the 90°type such that they will take a piece of flex tube easily. The brass wire hoops are fitted to a plastic strip glued into the edge of the tank rather than the way I had it arranged before. I now have both pairs fixed to the engine and a test piece of brass rod through the 2 hoops to check the alignment. All I need now is a set of 4 arms to fit onto the rod and reach to the tops of the carbs. A 5th arm may be fixed in the middle as the operator arm. That would at least give me something to attach the throttle cable to. Also been tinkering with the plug leads and the sparkplug fittings. Nothing finalised there yet, and I'll need the distributor fitted for that.
  12. Indeed you have! That's all looking orderly and organised. I've seen a few examples where a quarter of the spokes are done at one stage, and then the next set, so that the hub and rim stay joined and centred and no jig required. But that looks like an effective and doable arrangement Yes the Porcupine AJS is there and many others. My main recollections of Sammy Miller is as a Trials rider - as in the Scottish 6 day Trial, riding cross-country up river beds and mountains. He was epic at this, and there is a whole section of trials bikes. A hall of race bikes, general production machines, old historic and the "wierd and wonderful". The website may throw some light on the contents. There's a display of models, I'd say mostly Protar and similar, but it's easy to miss among all the full size stuff! Velocettes, Manx Norton of course, and they're kept in full functional condition. There is a video on line of him riding the Moto Guzzi V8 around for display. Probably loads more to be searched for.
  13. I just spent a happy couple of hours at Sammy Miller's Motorcycle Museum today, for a bit of walkaround research and photos. I'm happy to report that Sammy himself is in fine form, and still buying more, rebuilding them and riding them! The huge collection does indeed contain the Moto Guzzi V8 in the green dustbin fairing, and the Gilera 500. I have several photos of both. I should get them in order and contact Julien I guess. Both engines are dense with details but at least the Gilera has the fairing removed The Moto Guzzi V8 is all but inaccessible through it's complexity.... For a start I can see that the kit spoking is wrong. It didn't really make sense when I first looked at the parts but I was prepared to give Protar the benifit of the doubt, until I saw the real thing. See how the spokes meet at the same hole as they attach to the hub? And where they attach to the rim they are doing it in pairs, 2 from the left then 2 from the right? The spokes should be attached to the rim intermittently and the hub attachment holes evenly spaced out. I also could see (just about) what's going on with the 2 little float tanks between the carbs. They can be thought of as 2 pairs of carburettors, spaced because of the timing chain arrangement in the middle of the engine. Each pair has a little tank sandwiched between as a fuel feed. Protar supplies them but the instructions are obscure, the drawings are vague, and the wording refers to them as "cups".... "and between them are glued the two cups - 20."........that's it! I should mention that the parts in the exploded diagrams are all numbered and referred to in the instructions, but no parts or sprues have any indication of a number and no numbered diagram of sprues or any indication is given. You need to figure it out for yourself. That's all part of the challenge though Thanks for the feedback on the subject of chains @Mumbly. And @heloman1I found something in the museum model displays.... Nice.....
  14. So what do you make of the styrene chain assembly as supplied with the Guzzi that I have?? Is that a one-off project they tried before going to vinyl chains?? Comparing the rear chainwheels of these two, it looks like they have different pitches so any chain for one wouldn't fit the other. Good luck with the 3D printing process and design.
  15. That looks like a great kit, Colin. I'd definitely give one of those a go if I could get hold of one! The respoking business seems to be the go-to mod for these bikes but I can imagine the tedious aspect of the process . I wouldn't want to invoke a stall for this. And you need to get back on the case Yes I'm in! I have something that I'm not sure is good news or bad..... I found the MISSING part of the oil sump. It was loose in the corner of the box under stuff. So..... What to do?? Well, for the sake of completeness of the kit and as some kind of penance for my stupidity, I hacked my scratch construction off and ditched it, and assembled the appropriate parts. As for the mountings I'll reuse the Ali tube. What I can't do is build the frame and then mount the engine assembly - it's just to big, especially when the sump is fitted. The frame has to be built around the engine. I've been tinkering with the carbs and it all looks quite impressive. The 2nd one in has a wire hoop inserted for a trial, to see if I can get the throttle mechanism represented in some way. If ever I was going to try this kind of tinkering, then this is the scale to be working on. There's one glaring weakness with this kit, in that the final drive is represented by an elastic band....... This is only a guess, but I'm thinking the Gilera is one of the first Protar kits and they resolved the issue with later products. A look at the Moto Guzzi kit reveals this little bag of joy.... That's right, a fully articulated, all-moving chain kit!! That's more like it. At the very least, I have one chain to share between two bikes. And if Italeri are producing some of these kits currently, there may be a chance of getting some more chain kits. Or maybe an aftermarket source of such a thing. I can't see an elastic band being a successful outcome on this. The kit actually included one, used to contain the small bundle of wires included for the plug leads and cables, but having been undisturbed since the 60s sometime, it disintegrated into several scraps of rubbish as I undid the cable bundle. The final drive sprocket in the gearbox space is in fact a little pulley wheel and that was telling me something as I fitted it. But there's enough space in the back of the gearbox for me to change things if the situation comes to that.. Hell, I replaced a headlamp bulb on my Citroën C3 so this would be a doddle by comparison.... (just a little in-joke for Citroën owners... ) I'll see what I can find to resolve the chain situation
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