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About Robin-42

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  1. The surgury continues. The tailwheel well has the fuselage skin covering part of it at either end. This is how I am trying to duplicate it. I cut out the full size of the well and glued the “mudguard” portion in. Then I glued the bulkheads on the ends and wrapped thin styrene skin around the bulkheads making sure they followed the fuselage contours. I did it two steps and used lots of liquid cement to soften the styrene around the curves. Finally wound up with this mess! After carving, sanding wound up with this. Still more filling and sanding, but it is at least closer to the actual bay now. I had to add some strip to the doors because the hinge line should be at a bit more of angle than it is, I had just followed paralell to the fuselage lower line which is wrong.
  2. Nope, bulge would be in the wrong spot. No problem, it’s modelling. If I wanted easy, I would be building my Tamiya Spit!
  3. Back to the tailwheel. The improved sized doors have been roughly cut out of the fuselage and the resin test fit. Thanks to “silberpferd” aka Laurent, I have a photo of the tailwheel bay. The straight raised bits representing the hinges should follow the fuselage taper, narrowing to the rear, in fact they taper out. I will need to make a new “mudgaurd” section to correct this. There is also a fair bit of structure in that area. Not sure if I can duplicate it. I have already filed the excess resin out of the fairings on the doors. Finally, note the clamps on the museums tailwheel strut, no doubt installed by the museum to keep the strut extended when the strut lost pressure.
  4. Looks good. I would recommend a glossier finish before the decals go on to reduce the silvering and a little more time spent on the seams. Grey primer is a good choice to highlight areas that need attention.
  5. 1967 kit. No scribed roundels, but enough rivets to embarass a Cromwell tank! Only finished it out of sheer bloodmindedness.
  6. I am safe, I never enter contests!
  7. Perfect! Just what I needed, thanks so much! A picture only a modeler would take....
  8. I have the same diagram, the way the cutaway goes through two seperate cutaways makes it hard to follow. It appears to me that there is just enough opening to allow the leg to swing through it’s arc, but a picture would be worth a thousand words!
  9. Any of you experts have a photo of the interior of the retractable tailwheel well? I have some drawings in my references but they are unclear as to how far the “mudguard” section goes foward. There has to be some open area for the strut to retract. Most of the kits seem to jusy have a solid well.
  10. See that lovely gap at the top of the instrument panel. Should not be there. As the side panels are permently attatched, the panel frame will have to be trimmed to allow it to move upwards. If you are following my mistakes, save the grief, assemble the cockpit as a unit, then Dremel happily away at the kits fuselage until it fits. On the plus side, I am quite happy with my slight mod to the part of the fuselage frame sicking up proud of the fuselage. I made a pattern of the MasterCasters top, made two pieces out of sheet, trimmed down the MasterCasters part and thinned it. Then glued the sheet pieces and gently sanded them to blend into the frame.
  11. Tailwheel, Matchbox doors re oversized and the shape is wrong. I am gluing them in place and will cut out a better shape to match the resin. I can’t find a pic of the interiorof the tailweel bay shown in the aircraft manual drawings-anybody have one? Grey Matter have a simplified flat roof. Matchbox have a better representation of the mechanism, but it is incorrect in detail and is missing the “mudguard” which hides the hydraulics anyway. I have managed to open up the resin forks, but the tire looks a little small. I will see how it looks after painting.
  12. I don’t have any 1/32 plans, but I believe the resin is correct and the kit is off. The instructions do warn you of this, advising you to a add 1mm to the inside of the fuselage and to trim down the kit fuselage. I did find another build where he removed the fuel tank portion from the resin. Too late for that approach. In any case there will be putty, lots of putty.
  13. These fine books of course means I have no excuse not to get it reasonably right! As for the nose, studying plans shows that lining up the panel line on the resin nose below the fuel tank with it’s counterpart on the kit will put the resin nose in the right spot. The kit half of the fuel tank is going to have come down about 1mm, the sides as well. The wing stubs on the resin nose will have to come off as they sit way to high. This will have to be done after the fuselage is cemented together-again. So cockpit and tailwheel bay are up next.
  14. I am slowly working through my shelf of doom, finishing some kits that should have been binned. This was originaly built in the 70’s by my brother. I got it when he was going to throw it out. It had a fuselage, wings, and a propless spinner, only slightly less than the kit originaly had..... Over the years, I opened up the undercarriage bays, gave it an Aeroclub prop, vacuform canopy of unknown provenance, undercarriage, tailplanes and enlarged radiators from the Spitfire spares box. Highly inaccurate cannon barrels are turned brass by me. Now, if you wanted to do PK312 as it was originaly built, it would be far easier to start with a later F22 kit and swap an earlier tail on it. I have finished it and posted it because, well, not a kit many people are dumb enough to build, and I never give up on anything.....
  15. We don’t call that a mistake, we call it a “new technique!”.
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