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Robin-42

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  1. Definitely! I might jump in to the group build with a different subject. I have turned out some almost useful 3D parts for it. Once they are actually useful, you guys will be the first to know. In the meantime, post any questions. I have all the CF100 books out there.
  2. Being very familiar with vintage 1:1 scale, “Relative” is a relative term! If the engines were running, they will need to be torn down and inspected. Currently an overhaul on a those engines is around £70 000. Get out your wallets!
  3. The formation “slime” lights may have to come off depending on your final choice of markings. Same for the nose infra-red seaker head. Finally, depending on how pedantic you are, some airframes had an extra set of guide vanes in the intakes. MDC initially added them at a certain production number, then decided they weren’t needed after all. A photo is the only sure way to know. I go from trying to correct everything in a kit to not bothering to put an interior in another myself.
  4. Slow down! Tamiya fine white primer is your friend, besides being a great primer for yellow, it will show up the ahem, seams. In any case, any finished model is a good model, next!
  5. It s not a representation of Major Fishers aircraft, it is the aircraft he was flying when he rescued the other pilot and received the Medal of Honour.
  6. Too late, the Lancs have Lucas radios. They can’t be called off. They only work until they are installed.
  7. Air strikes are inbound from around the globe! Led by an Airfix Lancaster squadron armed with Tallboys! Your bunker will not help you!
  8. 1/72 Spitfire windscreens are never easy. An aftermarket mask set helps if one is available. There are some that can brush paint them, I am not one of them. Finally, I am a huge fan of Falcon’s canopy sets, they make some older-and newer! kits look much better. It may seem silly to buy a bunch of Spitfire canopies, but you will use most of them eventually. https://www.falconmodels.co.nz/clearvax72.html
  9. Looks good. I have glued sandpaper to flat toothpicks to get to small spots.
  10. The Dremal will heat and melt the plastic pretty quick. Don’t keep it in one place too long. Don’t ask me how I know that. Also you don’t need a very coarse bit. I use some cheap diamond bits of various shapes mostly now.
  11. The intake is actually easier to drill out in place. Just drill small holes in the corners and work your way to the middle, then a #11 Xacto blade or equivalent and carve out to join the holes. Don’t try to join the holes with the drill, it will just jump sideways. Dremel is quicker, but you need a steady hand.
  12. Drop tanks get no respect. I saw a photo of a pristine F101A at an airshow. The aircraft gleamed. The drop tanks looked like someone had taken a sledgehammer to them!
  13. I’m the opposite, I always forget about the group builds, there are so many great posts on this site, if I read them all, I would never build anything! Do17 builds are thin on the ground. Thanks for putting it up. Full disclosure, I also forgot I have an Airfix one in the stash!
  14. I have two on my shelf, they do take up a lot of real estate. I was shocked when I saw the 1:1 scale one at the NASM, made the 234 parked beside it look dainty!
  15. A quick a google search showed variations for sure. The tail of the fuselage, and the front of the gear fairings stood out.
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