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mike romeo

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mike romeo last won the day on April 26 2015

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About mike romeo

  • Birthday 04/18/1968

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    South 'ampshire
  • Interests
    WWII aircraft modelling, 1/72 for preference, obsolete kits a speciality . . .

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  1. "Massive length difference". Hmmmmm. Many thanks for posting the comparison. A picture is worth 1000 confidently expressed opinions.
  2. Thanks, Stix, nice to be here! I have a small update for you. So, after the last post I got the fuse halves together. The seams were a bit off and called for some sprue goo followed by sanding. I then added the tailplane and smeared some tippex over the joints. Here's how it looked after. You may be able to see that I've done a fair bit of sanding of the cowling ring to make it sleeker, as I think it looks a bit blunt oob. Due to the sanding, I've lost a raised fastener panel top and bottom of the cowling, so that'll be reinstated with wine bottle foil or tape cut to shape. Having got the fuse to that point, it was time to consider the wings. The 2 things I wanted to do here were: 1. Correct sink marks from the single piece flap area and on top of the block of plastic where the u/c legs attach; 2. Re-detail the gear bays. Re 1, I used several thin coats of sprue goo followed when dry by vigorous sanding. I checked progress by spraying several coats of primer which hopefully will also de-emphasise the recessed trenches. However, sanding plus primer had removed some panel lines completely, so these were rescribed. Re 2, I know that this is one of the few Matchbox with gear well detail, but it doesn't look very realistic, so I used a plastic chisel to get rid of the detail, then smoothed the remaining area with sanding stick, gave it a coat of Tamiya extra thin and, when dry, a scoosh of primer. The net result of the above work is shown below: The white spars at each wing root are plastic rod cut overlong and used to detail the wheel wells, using the Academy Tempest as a rough guide. Again, I'm no super-detailer and I'm satisfied that looks better than the plain gridwork that was there previously. So, having got to this stage, I joined the wing top and bottom pieces and started the attachment process: You can also see the blanking plate I fashioned with a circle cutter to hide the ugly seam line above and below the prop spinner. The port wing fit is none too stellar, and will have to be filled in due course. However, the starboard wing had an even bigger gap ~1mm, so I decided to shim it. So that's how things stand at the moment. Once set up, the shims will be trimmed and the starboard wings added. Then fill seams, more primer and we'll see what's what. Thanks for reading. Rgds Martin
  3. Next up, I thought I'd add a representation of the interior framing, using the Eduard Tempest instructions as a guide. I'm no super-detailer, so that's enough for me. In the foreground I've added a bit more to the seat. Here's a closer look. I've added as joystick and pedals from the spares box and, in the foreground is a Hurricane ip, with the sides bent forward to make it look a bit more like a Tempest's. So, after adding crude straps out of wine bottle foil, a seat cushion from card, and a (badly applied)splash of paint, the cockpit is *done*. After that, I opened up the tailwheel bay and added interior blanking, then could close up the fuse. More pics soon. Rgds Martin
  4. Hi all, Although I haven't set up a thread previously, some modelling has been accomplished. Luckily, I have been taking photos as I've been going along. Although I cannot recall how much I spent on the Tempest, I am utterly confident it was less than a tenner. Why? Because I wouldn't pay more for it even now! Nice kit it may be, but this is a builder, not an investment. So, here is the kit: Box Contents: Sprues: This is going to be a Mk II. At least, if things go to plan. I like this simple little kit, and it will be built *mostly* out of the box, but with a few enhancements. Although little can be seen once the fuse is together, I wanted to add a bit of interior detail. So, here a start has been made. I added the Mk II nose halves onto the respective fuse halves. Incidentally, I will be slimming down the nose cowl contours a bit, asI think it looks a bit blunt out of the box. Sitting alongside the fuse halves is the one piece seat / bulkhead. I have added some kick plates and a cross-bar as a base for the joystick. So, that's all for the first post. More to follow soon . . . Rgds Martin
  5. Thanks, Graham, that confirms my suspicion. I'm using what I think is the right brownish od from the Xtracrylics range, and I have *lots* of dark greens in my paints to choose from. Tks again. Rgds Martin
  6. Hi folks, Got an Airfix 1/72 Dak9ta on the go. Airfix suggest 101 mid green as the option for the 'blotches' round the periphery to break up the outline. I bought a tin today and it is a pretty bright green. I think this would look really odd at 1:72 in contrast with the very dull OD I'm using. Now, to break up the outline, I recognise you need to have a colour contrast but . . . this much? Any thoughts from the BM hive mind? Tks in advance. Rgds Martin
  7. Thanks! However, see my previous post re method. Rgds Martin
  8. Hi Andre, Thought noone would ask! The mottles are artist's pastel applied with a cut down brush on a matt surface (after decalling). They were then sealed with another light coat of matt varnish. Rgds Martin
  9. About 10 years ago now, I built an antique 1:72 Revell Ju 88C-6. This was partly a nostalgia build, and partly an exercise in adding a bit of detail. I also practised trying to get a mottle with a hairy stick. It was no masterpiece, but I was pleased with it and it's still sat in my display cabinet. Fast forward 10 years and I decided to build another Ju88C-6, but this time using AMT's kit. I wanted another crack at trying the mottle. I basically built it oob, then sprayed it Tamiya RLM76 from a rattle can and added the mottle using a new method. Here is the result, with a comparison pic with the classic build. Another step on the way to a decent mottle finish. Rgds Martin
  10. Yep, I'm a slacker. Got 4 builds in progress and have asked to join the Less than a Tenner GB, too. What to do? I know! I'll start a 109! Rgds Martin
  11. And my RAAF Beaufighter Mk.X, using some of Mr Tony O'Toole's very generously donated decals: Rgds Martin
  12. Hi, some (not very) glamour shots of Weggery's first SEAC Spitfire Mk Vc at weird angles: Rgds Martin
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