mike romeo

The advice used to be: cross-kit the Monogram and FROG kits, using the main parts of the FROG with the detail parts of the Monogram to get an accurate Z. I'm sure a bit of scratchbuilding in the cockpit and some external scribing wouldn't go amiss too. I still plan to give this a try at some point.

Looking forward to seeing this one progress. The canopy seems too shallow and the rake of the windscreen and how it blends into the canopy looks wrong to me. Is that a real thing and, if so, would it bother you at all?

Wow! Impressive.

D'oh! Completely missed those. Thanks!

Tarrant Tabor?

Well, to me, it looks great in the pictures. Not bad for a first adult build. Re priming, when using a rattle can, make sure the paint is not stone cold and shake it for a goodly amount of time. After that, it's a case of not spraying too close to the model and never, never, start spraying pointing at the model. Start to one side and sweep over the model in long slowish sweeps. If you stop sweeping and point at the same part of the model for more than a second or so, you'll get runs. Lots of thin coats are better than one over thick one, so take your time. re painting yellow, it's very translucent and doesn't cover well, so its best to undercoat in white before starting. BTW, I don't think the prop blades look too light. regards Martin

Thanks, Rod. So, no change to the cowling then? And what mark of Boston was it? Regards Martin

Well, based on the discussion here, I bought a Revell Havoc kit. Looks good, with - as has been mentioned - some nice spare bits. I now have vague plans to build a Havoc II intruder and "Spirit of Sport". For the first, I'd need the vented cowlings and hedgehog exhausts (I think). Can't immediately see those advertised for sale on the SH website. Any ideas? For the latter - neglecting the fuse for the moment - I think I'd just need to add the oval exhaust outlets behind the cowlings. Is this as simple as drilling out the nacelles and adding a plastic tube cut at an angle, or is the cowling different too? ...expecting the answer: "it's much more complicated than that!" Regards Martin

Are Printscale colours any good, though? Their RAF WWII insignia colours look very bright in pics of sheets I 've seen for sale. Re their thinness, given I can make Tally Ho! decals work, I reckon I can hack these.

A large e-sales site with the same name as a famous S American river.

My Hasegawa G has both Jumo and BMW cowlings and props. It currently looks quite affordable (~£25) on the riverine e-selling site. Regards Martin

Why are there still oil coolers in the leading edge? I'm also wondering where the engine - and the c.g. now are. But then - as my wife bears witness frequently - I am an uncbearably pedantic aeronautical engineer. Nice Jetsair, mind. ;-)

Adey, Nice finish on the '152. Particularly like the engine / internals gizmology for view up through the open wheel wells. Regards, Martin

I saw a 100 years set in my LMS this weekend as well as the Marauder, so these are also out. Regards Martin

Nice Mossie, There are all sorts of skill levels on BM, so don't think yours are not up to snuff. I like the paint finish as is; as the Squadron commander's aircraft, I'm guessing it'd have been kept fairly clean. I brush paint as well, and ridges at camo boundaries have been the bane of my existence too. Well thinned paint, not loading up the brush when doing boundaries, brushing along the masking line not across it and, once the paint is cured, the gentle application of micromesh prior to clear varnishing all help. Regards Martin