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Pappy last won the day on October 1 2015

Pappy had the most liked content!

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About Pappy

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    Very Obsessed Member

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  • Location
    Brisneyland, Oz
  • Interests
    Pina Colada's and long walks in the rain

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  1. G'day Pat, I have managed to keep the carpet monster at bay for now but it is a regular predator at Chez Pappy. KH provides the engine access doors as separate panels to allow either, both (or none) of the engines to be displayed. Dry fitting indicates that although the engine doors fit, they would would probably put up a fight as I think the kit is designed to have the doors open. G'day Dave, As self confessed Dauphin fancier I expect you will let me know if I start to get off track as the Dauphin/Panther is not quite as common in my neck of the woods G'day people, I spent today painting up the cockpit and cabin details in addition to assembling the fuselage as manageable sub-assemblies to ease seam clean-up and to try and get the best fit. The cockpit flight controls were cleaned up and added after the centre console details were picked out. The instrument panel PE supplied in the kit fits great and will be highly visible through the cockpit transparencies and doors Next up, the aft cabin firewall has been assembled and painted Likewise the forward cabin door pillar section I temporarily taped the cockpit/cabin floor to the lower fuselage section Time to check the fit of all the sub assemblies so far, So far, so good, thanks for looking cheers, Pappy
  2. G'day Rich, Yeah, it even comes with a little PE (seat belts and IP) so definitely good value which is good because it is really the only choice available! Oh, I'm always up for some fun. I have the KH Seasprite 'almost done' (ironically, it was also started in a GB, my WIP here if interested: http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/topic/296686-148-kittyhawk-sh-2g-super-seasprite/&tab=comments#comment-2840653 There are a couple of gotchas with that kit. If you want to build the"F" the doghouse is completely wrong as it sits too far forward. I think KH basically designed the kit mouldings as "G" and either didn't notice or care to change the moulds for the "F". Also, in both boxings the tread pattern in the cabin is actually moulded on the underside - WTF? So, I have been playing around with the various parts and decided to deviate from the kit instructions and devise my my own construction sequence instead as this will better suit me. As more bits are added to this kit, it will become increasingly fragile so I intend to keep the more delicate parts and assemblies off until as late as possible. Unusually for an aircraft kit, the instructions would have you start with the main rotor gearbox, so naturally enough, I chose to start on the cockpit instead Withe the cockpit base colour on, a quick drybrush popped out the fine details. I went back and started building up the engine bay and gearbox accessory assemblies next cheers, Pappy There is a wealth of detail included in the kit here and it would be great if all kit manufacturers were this generous. Nevertheless, there is always room for a little mere detail.
  3. Thanks Col, KH tries to get the maximum value from their moulds so they can be a bit of a jigsaw puzzle to put together and this is no different but it looks like a corker in the box, cheers, Pappy
  4. G'day people, I cannot resist a good wokka kit and despite having mixed success completing GB entries, I couldn't help joining this one Box shots cheers, Pappy
  5. G'day Gibbo, Don't sell yourself short, the pic is useful and along with Arnold's earlier post both indicate the markings are behind the fwd dive planes and fwd of the aft dive planes. My next problem is where do I source red draft markings from? The kit did not provide any instructions let alone decals! cheers, Pappy
  6. G'day people, I am currently building a 1/350 RAN Oberon Class submarine. I was hoping someone might have pictures or drawing for the locations of the draft markings? cheers, Pappy
  7. G'day people, Well, I have managed to add the topcoat and I am in the process of adding modulation by adding varying amounts of white and brown to the basic colour. I am keeping the modulation coats very thin and it is a little hard to see in the pics but it is definitely there These boats looked pretty well maintained in my reference pics but I will still add a few more effects for interest before adding the final detail items. Does anyone have any pics for the locations of the draft markings? cheers, Pappy
  8. G'day ray and Stuart, thanks very much, it feels good to get this one going again. The trick will be to try and make an all black scheme inetresting without looking like a zebra G'day GMK, I have already built a Collins, I was planning on putting it alongside when the final pics are posted up, otherwise, you can search for it in here somewhere.... It seems a lot of ex-O boat peeps get a bit weepy when they recall their time aboard them. There used to be a well known ad for the RAN when 'I were a lad', it was basicaly a montage of boaty type activities with the hook line being 'You'll be wet, you'll be homesick and firghtened but the pride of the fleet will be you!", apparaently this was the most successful RAN and Australian Defence Force recruiting campaign evr run cheers, Pappy
  9. G'day people, So, I have blown the cobwebs off this project and it is moving forward again, My references showed that there were several details missing or that could be improved The anchor is covered by a plate, I ground away the recess for the anchor well and then fashioned a suitable shaped door from some scrap copper sheet I also added grab rail to the base of the sail. There was one provided as part of the moulding but I felt that it was a little overscale and I sanded this off and replaced it with with stretched sprue There is also a slightly raised fairing running up the stb'd side of the sail. I used some airframe tape to simulate the panel Finally, I noticed that in photos of RAN Oberons taken later in life there was what looked like an external waveguide running along the forward deck between the bow sonar dome and the sail Just about ready to paint thanks for looking, Pappy
  10. G'day people, The lower corners of the exterior cabin windows have small handles at their corners as the windows are designed to be removable in an emergency. The exterior PE set provides these however, I thought I had lost these forever and would have to scratch some replacements but luckily I was able to wrestle them back from the jaws of the dreaded carpet monster! Note- two of these are not yet attached as I only just found them! cheers, Pappy
  11. G'day people, Firstly, thanks for pointing out my dumb mistake ref the screw blade pitch. The correction was relatively easy, I simply bent the blades in the opposite direction, luckily, the brass has not work hardened and none of the blades snapped off So, the painting can now begin, I have given the lower hull a base coat of white primer in preparation for the red oxide. I only painted the lower half as I was using the sail as a convenient hand hold while I was applying the paint. I will give the upper half a coat when this has dried I am not sure the MM painting guide is correct as they indicate the red oxide/black hull demarcation is below the rear horizontal dive planes, but reference pics for the BF show it to be considerably higher? cheers, Pappy.
  12. Good work chaps! I will have a crack at bending the blades the opposite way instead cheers Pappy
  13. G'day Stuart, Thanks very much, I was beginning to think I was the only one following along! It appears that MM have done a fairly decent job and I am just adding a few tweaks. MM kits usually include a small brass PE fret and this kit is not exception however, in this case the details are limited to a part for an early conning tower configuration (which I will not be using) and the screw, which I will be using. The PE screw needs to be added to the rear plastic hub and the blades bent And just for fun, the screw was temp fitted Thanks for looking, cheers, Pappy
  14. G'day people, More work, this time it is the DDSs. The kit supplies two of these and although the doors are provided as separate parts, no interior of any kind is supplied. I decided to make a very crude representation by inserting a short section of aluminium tube and adding a small rectangular section of plastic card to provide a floor. There are also a couple of 'lumps' on top of the DDSs which I represented using some plastic sheet off-cut suitable shaped. I have seen some really nice 3D printed DDSs but these would have cost me double the asking price of the kit and I could not justify it so I will have to make do with some plastic strip and elbow grease instead! My initial plan was to add the small end plates to the rear horizontal fins but this attempt ended in disaster. Making the four identical fins was easy enough but getting all four of these aligned and parallel was like trying to wrestle with a bag of kittens. I decided to come up with a new plan. This time I made two identical end plates, one for each side incorporating the upper and lower sections in a single part. Next I carefully sawed away a small section from the outer edge of the forward (fixed) section of the aft dive plane. Once the cut was cleaned up, the end plates were simply butt glued and checked for squareness. Result!! All that remained was to attach a small shaped section of plastic card to represent the end of the dive plane cheers, Pappy
  15. G'day all, Another incremental update, The cabin doors have had some attention paid to them. The kit instructions would have you sand away the delicate details provided on the insides of the cabin doors just to replace with a large brass sheet that is only a moderate improvement (at best) with all the attendant problems of gluing and alignment using CA. That seemed like a fool's errand (IMHO anyway) especially when these doors will be installed in the slid back position so any additional detail will be mostly hidden so I opted to just paint the details instead - though I did use the pre-painted window frame, emergency release lever and data placard provided in the PE set The exterior faces were dressed up with a PE window frame. I also need to add a coupe of PE handles but as with the cockpit doors, these will be added once all the painting is completed due to their delicate nature Looking at the magnified pic I have only just realised that the window frame on the left cabin door (the right one in the above pic) is actually upside down. I think I will leave it as I think removing it and re-applying will probably result is damage so the bite is not worth the chew in this instance. cheers, Pappy
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