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Michael louey

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Michael louey last won the day on August 8 2020

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About Michael louey

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  1. Hi Colin, Very nice build - Looks like you had to add the same stuff I did - pitot tube, mass balances. One thing of note - The starboard front quarter window in a F-2 (and F-4) is not clear. It is a solid panel with a ventilation intake, like the G model. The port side is clear. I've got lots of photos of this now that I know what to look for (i.e. the 109 Schiffer book by Prien and Roedike). I think the photos in this thread show this: https://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?/topic/85649-messerschmitt-bf-109-f2-of-9jg54-yellow-7-flown-by-alfred-dollefel
  2. Hi Zegeye, I'm building the same kit right now. Are you across the need to add some interior blanking covers for the rear quarter windows? An idea of what is needed is shown by the Red Roo enhancement set: https://www.redroomodels.com/product/red-roo-boomerang-enhancement-set-1-72/ Their are other items in it which you could modify from plastic card - i.e the wheel covers. The other items (hedgehog exhaust, treaded wheels) are already in this SH boxing Cheers Michael
  3. Hi Colin, Yellow is a difficult colour for coverage. A trick I was given by another modeller was to undercoat in a tan colour. I usually use whatever one I have handy, usually radome tan. This usually sprays pretty easily with good coverage. After that a single coat of yellow usually will be sufficient. I also bought myself an electric paint mixer (I think mine is a trumpeter) to make sure pigments are really mixed especially for colours like yellow. In this particular model though I used a different technique. I sprayed an undercoat of matt yellow (I think it was Model
  4. Hi Colin, Saw this a bit late, however there is a build here that hasn't got a painted frame on the Zvezda kit I found out a heap of details when building the Fine Molds me 109G-2 and 109F-4. This clarified the framing of the main canopy (i.e. no middle frame in F models. It also highlighted that the small quarter window on an F only exists on the port side unlike the E models. Cheers Michael
  5. HI Mark, I've had to fill the seam in the upper cowling about half a dozen times on the Eduard Spitfires. I always use Superglue (in my case it's a high quality brand available here called Bob Smith and it's the medium gap filling variant). I usually sand back soon after it has been applied - i.e. later in the day or the next day so the super glue isn't as "hard". I've got a number of Spitfires in the "Ready for Inspection" area where you can see the results. Good luck with your build, I'm planning on starting one of these once I get the current builds off the bench.
  6. Hi Dave, Those 2 photos are printed in Clive Caldwell Air Ace by Kristen Alexander, a good read about Caldwell. The originals were supplied by Clive's wife. Peter probably has copies of those and many more sourced independently. Cheers Michael
  7. Another nice Spitfire Tony. The Sword still has some advantages over the Airfix - options for the wing bulges, some nice etch in some boxings and maybe finer detail for some parts. Did you cut down the undercarriage legs? I built mine a long time ago and since then noticed most other Spitfires sit lower (e.g. Airfix Mk I, Eduard Mk VIII). After building the Airfix and KP kits I planned to do a review and either cut down the Sword undercarriage legs or replace them with spares from Eduard. Cheers Michael
  8. I have a Skybirds MB5 (as well as a couple of Hornets) and one thing I found to be very unique was that the vacform canopies were pre cut (maybe not fully cut through - I haven't got mine on hand to check) so the hardest part of using a vacform canopy was already done. The only problem with my MB5 is I accidentally trod on the canopy when having a look at it a long time ago. The windscreen is still ok but the canopy is irreparable. Fortunately I have a Falcon MB5 which I think has 1 or 2 vacform canopies and I plan to use one of those to finish off the Skybirds kit. I built the AZ kit last yea
  9. Hi Paul, Very true statement. It looks like Airfix is copying the technique Eduard used for their Mk VIII/IX kits. it may add detail and perhaps ease assembly but you're right about the issue of scale appearance, especially if you open the door on a Spitfire. By the way, it may be a fashion going forward, I noticed my Clear Prop Ki 51 Sonia has the same cockpit layout though there is no opening door on that plane so the issue is not so obvious, especially if the canopy is closed. Regards Michael
  10. Hi Greg & Stix, I've heard people mention the upper cowl seam a number of times and heard Eduard supplies a resin replacement (which I think some have complained being undersize at times). Having heard this, I've always built the upper cowl's first and then added them to the kit fuselage (rather than gluing each side to the left/right fuselage then gluing halves together). By getting the cowl tops to have the best fit possible, I then add superglue to the seam after the cowls are fitted to the fuselage and carefully sand the seam/superglue and polish. I've never exp
  11. Hello Hans First, let me say you've done a very nicely detailed build and accurate and well finished colour scheme. There is one thing that stands out in the 1st photo though - I think the undercarriage stance is too upright, likely caused by the kits part breakdown. I think the undercarriage should rake forward more - There is a very informative article/s on Hyperscale about this: http://www.clubhyper.com/reference/fw190landinggear_1.htm http://www.clubhyper.com/reference/fw190landinggear_2.htm Hopefully it shouldn't be too diff
  12. Hi I've used Flory or their equivalent washes and never had this problem but I use enamels or Gunze lacquers. I would have a suspicion it's the vallejo acrylics. I've heard they are quite fragile and I seldom use them except for very specific brush painting. Regards Michael
  13. Nice pair of Australian Spitfires. I look forward to seeing them arrive here in Australia! Interesting colour on the code letter on the 54 Squadron aircraft - I'll need to check my DK decal sheet and see if there is any reference to how they determined the colour. Cheers Michael
  14. That shows skills you don't see much these days. With so many detailed kits you can just assemble, scratchbuilding and vacforms are things you don't really get to see much these days. Great model! Cheers Michael
  15. Hi Graham I had 2 remaining cans of HB1 in my stash - presumably I'd decided they weren't good matches for RAF dark green and "archived" them. Both would have been bought individually at hobby stores from their rack - I can't ever recall buying boxed sets of authentics. One has a paper label on top of a white lid, the other has the dark green colour printed on the lid (this would be a later issue). The latter can is still useable and I'm about to try it out on a Boomerang. It will be an interesting experiment but the colour seems to match the colour chips I have but since there is
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