Jump to content

Mike

Root Admin
  • Posts

    1,013,615
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    30

Mike last won the day on March 25 2020

Mike had the most liked content!

About Mike

  • Birthday 05/09/1967

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Chester, UK
  • Interests
    Aircraft, AFVs & Sci-Fi

Recent Profile Visitors

90,513 profile views

Mike's Achievements

Constant Member

Constant Member (9/9)

19k

Reputation

  1. The Messerschmitt Bf.110 – Airframe & Miniature #17 ISBN: 9781912932207 Valiant Wings Publishing The Bf.110 started life in the mid-30s as a Zerstörer, a heavy fighter that had a fair degree of success in the early days of WWII, but once the Battle of Britain began it was found to be too slow to cope with the Spitfires and Hurricanes that it encountered across the English Channel/La Manche whether it was supporting bombers or acting as a heavy fighter chaperoning the lumbering Stukas in their destructive terror missions. It was decided that they needed their own escorts to help reduce losses, and as a result the production lines for the -D model was put on a low priority, with the intention of replacing it with the Me.210, but that’s a whole ‘nother sad, extended story that ended up with the Me.410 Hornisse much later. As a result, the Bf.110 soldiered on until the end of the war, generally used away from the dogfighting at the frontline, or in tasks where top speed and manoeuvrability wasn’t an absolute priority. The -F was fitted with more powerful engines with double the power of the first production variant, and that compensated entirely for the additional armour and equipment that was now carried by the revised design. After the Me.210 was deemed to be irretrievably flawed, the -G variant was created with enhanced armament and other changes, but some pilots weren’t particularly enthusiastic about it. This was the final service variant, as the -H was cancelled before it reached prototype, but there were a myriad of sub-variants and field-conversions used as night fighters, light bombers, ground-attack, tank destroyers with a 55mm Bordkanone slung under the fuselage, reconnaissance and of course the heavy fighter, with various ranges possible by varying the tankage. The Book The book is perfect-bound with 256 pages on glossy paper, tons of photographs, diagrams and profiles, the modern pictures being in colour, while the contemporary content is black and white due to that being the predominant film format of the day. It is of course written by Richard A Franks, with profiles by Richard J Caruana, isometric drawings by Wojciech Sankowski and Juraj Jankovic, plus models by Libor Jekl and Steve A Evans. If you're familiar with the series, you'll know that the tome is broken down into the Airframe section that deals with the 1:1 real thing, and the miniature section that covers the scale models and has a number of builds, plus a host of photographic detail that will be of great help to the modeller. Airframe Chapters 1. Evolution – Prototype, Bf.110A-0 & B Series 2. Evolution – Bf.110C & D Series 3. Evolution – Bf.110E & F Series 3. Evolution – Bf.110G & H Series 4. Camouflage & Markings and Colour Profiles Miniature Chapters 5. Bf.110 Kits 6. Building a Selection 7. Building a Collection 8. In Detail: The Bf.110 Fuselage Engines, Cowlings & Propellers Oil, Fuel & Coolant Systems Wings Tail Undercarriage Armament Electrical Equipment Miscellaneous Equipment Appendices I. Bf.110 Kits II. Bf.110 Accessories III. Bf.110 Decals IV. Bibliography A concertina sheet of 1:48 Scale plans are held captive in the rear cover (equivalent to 8 pages printed on both sides) The scale plans are nicely thought out, and fold out sideways with the left-hand edge glued to the inside cover, and the isometric drawings by Wojciech Sankowski and Juraj Jankovic that pick out the differences between variants and sub-variants are a dream for anyone like me that struggles to remember the details that separate the marks. As usual with the photographs in these titles, they're excellent for the most part, and as good as they can be for the occasional slightly grainy one that is all that remains of this or that variant. Afterall, there's only so much that modern photo editing software can do. The builds by Libor Jekl and Steve A. Evans are all first-rate too, with three Eduard kits in 1:72 – A Bf.110G-4 in detail, and a C/D and G-2 in summary, plus two Revell kits in 1:48 (G-2/R3) and 1:32 (C-2/C-7), both by Steve A Evans, all of which wouldn't look out of place on competition tables at the highest level. Conclusion This book is brimming with interest and information, with something for everyone – the modeller, the aviation enthusiast or history buff. My personal favourite parts are the variant isometrics as previously mentioned, but there is so much to enjoy and it’s all good. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  2. Austin Armoured Car Indian Pattern (39021) 1:35 MiniArt via Creative Models Ltd Armour became an important part of WWI, seeing the first fielding of the Tank by the British, and numerous types of armoured car that saw various uses. At the beginning of WWI Austin’s armoured car was built on their civilian chassis, with light armour and two Maxim machine guns in separate turrets, one firing to each side, front and rear. Many were destined for Russia, but after the Russian Revolution in 1917 some of the later variants were used in British service. One such version was the 1918 Pattern, which had double rear wheels, thicker armour and used the Hotchkiss machine gun instead. A batch of 1918 Pattern vehicles were manufactured for Russia, but were never delivered, with a batch handed to the newly formed Tank Corps, to be utilised in battle using a novel method of deployment. Tanks would tow them across the battlefield through no-man’s land, after which they would peel off and roam freely along and even behind enemy lines. They caused chaos and were almost too effective, ranging miles behind enemy lines at times, and set the scene for the Armoured Car and Infantry Fighting Vehicle of wars yet to come. At the end of the Great War some were returned to the UK and repurposed, but many that were formerly in Russian possession found their way into the inventory of other Eastern European countries, and a small batch were even used by the Japanese, who were British Allies in WWI. Some of those were still in service up until just before WWII. A squadron were sent to India after the war was over, serving with the 8th Armoured Car Company of the Tank Corps during the early 20s, fitted with more agricultural but resilient wheels, and British Vickers heavy machine guns in the turrets. The Kit This is another reboxing of last year’s newly tooled kit, with new parts to accurately portray the later mark included, including the new rear axle and wheels. It arrives in standard-sized top-opening box with a painting of the vehicle on the front, and inside are fourteen sprues in grey styrene, a sprue of clear parts, a small fret of Photo-Etch (PE) in a card envelope, a decal sheet and the instruction booklet that has colour profiles inside the front and rear covers. It’s an Interior kit, so some of the sprues are small, but you get a lot of detail moulded-in, thanks to MiniArt’s diligent designers that make full use of techniques such as slide-moulding, which helps improve detail without creating too many additional parts in achieving this goal. Construction begins with the ladder chassis, which is built up from two longitudinal rails held apart by various cross-members, some of which have mounting points and pass-throughs for other parts such as drive-shafts for the rear wheels. The engine has its own bearer rails, and it is built up on the sump with a good number of parts, plus a note of where the high-tension leads should go, which you’ll need to make yourself. You are officially an “experienced modeller” if you go to those lengths. The transmission fits to the rear of the rails behind the engine, then they are dropped into the inverted chassis as a unit, and joined by a number of ancillary parts, controls and a chunky radiator. Exhaust and leaf-spring suspension along with bumper irons are glued to the inverted chassis, and the rest of the driver controls are attached to the topside, even before the cab is started. The rods that turn control movements into actions are threaded through the chassis rails, or can be replaced by 0.3mm wires of your own stock for extra fidelity, with PE tensioning mechanisms supplied if you choose this option. The big rear axle with drum brakes and the front axle with steering arms are fabricated and attached to their relevant suspension mounts, with more control linkages for the handbrake and steering joining things together. Finally, a little bodywork is attached, initially at the sides of the engine compartments in preparation for gluing the swooping front arches, then each axle gets a wheel at both ends, made up from two parts each, and with deeper hubs at the rear onto which the simpler, tough tyres are each moulded. Now standing on her own six wheels, the floor of the fighting compartment and the crew cab plus the firewall and various small fittings that include the dash panel are placed on the top of the chassis, with another insert providing the bases for the two turrets that have pivot-points in the centre for the machine gun mounts. Stowage boxes in the shape of additional seats are made up and sat next to the rear steering wheel assembly, which also has a simple seat for getting out of hot water and dead-ends just that little bit easier. Two more substantial crew seats are attached to the front along with crew steps at the sides, then the somewhat complex upper hull is built sensibly in a step-by-step fashion that stops the modeller from being over-faced. Several raised features should be removed from parts before fitting, and additional rivets are shown being added in various other locations, which you can slice from the flat section of the two Ck sprues, unless you’ve got a set of Archer raised rivet transfers. The clamshell crew flap with PE side-flap bullet-catchers can be posed open to give a wider view of the battlefield for the drivers by using different lengths of 0.3mm wire from your own stock, so that when in battle it can be closed down, restricting the driver to a letterbox view of the world, which although frustrating is probably infinitely better than being shot in the face. Plenty of scrap diagrams show the correct orientation of all the parts, so there’s little chance of error unless you rush at it and don’t plan ahead. The hull has a number of doors that can be posed open and closed too, with vision flaps for additional situational awareness, and again there is a lot of hand-holding to get things in the right place. A number of small lights are dotted here & there, all with clear lenses for realism. Even the radiator has a remotely operated armoured cover, as engines overheating could become troublesome if the flap stays closed too long, with an ancillary flap just in front of the windscreen. The side-cowlings for the engine compartment have small PE straps holding them closed. With the addition of the rear fenders plus PE brackets, the hull/body is lowered over the chassis, and more stowage is located around the vehicle, including a rack of fuel cans on the front left to make sure they don’t run out on long missions, and a pair of curved-ended unditching planks are strapped-on low down on the chassis sides by some folded PE brackets. Turrets are fun, aren’t they? You build up a pair of mounts for the Vickers machine guns, including a tractor-style perforated seat for the operator and a large ammo can to feed the gun, which is fitted into a tripod mount that is glued up against the inner surface of the two-part circular walls. A few more of those slice-off rivets are glued to the top of the turret walls, mainly for detail purposes, as adding moulded-in rivets to a curved part is very hit & miss due to the way the parts are removed from the moulds. The roof is detailed with latches, searchlights on PE brackets and other small fittings, each one fitted open or closed as you see fit. There are two identical turrets made, and these drop into the circular cut-outs in the roof of the fighting compartment, held in place by gravity unless you fix them into position with a little glue. Markings There are four markings options on the decal sheet, with their five-view profiles printed in full colour on the glossy pages of the booklet at the front and rear. From the box you can build one of the following: 8th Armoured Car Company, No.4 Section, Royal Tank Corps., British Raj, Lahore, Jan 1923 8th Armoured Car Company, No.4 Section, Royal Tank Corps., British Raj, Lahore, Jan 1923 Royal Tank Corps., British Raj, Lahore, 1920s Royal Tank Corps., Waziristan, 1920s Decals are by MiniArt’s usual partner Decograph, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion This peculiar early armoured car isn’t as familiar as the rhomboid tanks or the Whippet Light Tank, but it’s been great seeing MiniArt filling more gaps in the available kits of WWI and post Great War armour. Detail is exceptional as we’ve come to expect from MiniArt. At time of writing, Creative Models are offering a generous 25% off the usual price of this kit Review sample courtesy of
  3. US Navy MHU-191/M Munitions & Missiles Transporter (211948 & 212048) 1:48 VideoAviation The MHU-191/M is a bomb trolley used by the US Navy to transport either two bombs or four Missiles from the below decks arsenal to the aircraft that are intending to use them. They’re usually operated by two people and propelled by hand thanks to a long handle with T-shaped cross-bar that steers the front wheels. The two configurations are available as separate sets, and both arrive in clear clamshell boxes with card inserts at the front, the parts in separate Ziploc bags, the figures enclosed in bubble-wrap, and the instructions folded to provide protection for the parts. These sets both come with two figures each, but this time they are 3D printed using SLA resin, attached to a base plate by a webwork of supports that is easy to clip off and sand back (I tested it). The rest of the parts are resin, and each set has the same decal sheet that holds the stencils applied to the vehicle to differentiate one from another in the inventory. MHU-191/M Munitions Transporter (211948) This set comes with a pair of bombs that have separate tail-feathers, totalling twelve resin parts and the two 3D printed figures. The figures just need cleaning up before they can be painted, while the resin parts need removing from their casting blocks, after which the ladder chassis is fitted with four wheels, two bomb support cradles and the long handle with a crossbar at the end. The bombs are Mk.82s with BSU-86B tail units, and painting guides are included for them as well as the figures, which are called out using colour names with their uniforms colour coded in accordance with their deck jobs. One figure is pushing at shoulder height on the rear of the trolley, while the other walks along holding the handle, guiding it across the deck. As usual with VA figures, they’re well designed and realistic. MHU-191/M Missile Transporter (212048) This set is an empty cart, although there’s nothing to stop you adding some missiles of your choice from your kit or an aftermarket set you plan on using. The figures are again 3D SLA printed on a series of supports leading to the base, which will need clipping off and the tiny marks sanding back flush. The chassis gets a set four wheels in the corners, then two pairs of V-shaped supports with another layer on a longitudinal brace with another four supports. That should allow the carriage of four missiles if the operating crew are feeling strong enough. The towing handle attaches to the front just like the set above. Speaking of the crew, one operator is pushing or pulling the cross-bar with both hands, while the other is standing casually with one hand resting on the trolley. Again, colour call-outs are given in names for the crew and the cart, with the same stencils applied to both trucks. Conclusion VideoAviation never fail to impress with their sets, which by now could probably fill a full-sized carrier if you put them all side by side. It’s good to see them making full use of the new 3D Printing technology too. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  4. aboard Wiesiek - we won't lynch you for your English (seems pretty good to us) if you can forgive us for not knowing any Polish (most of us, self-included, anyway)
  5. Pz.Kpfw.IV Ausf.J Nibelungenwerk Mid Prod. Sep-Nov 1944 (35339) 1:35 MiniArt via Creative Models Ltd Unlike the later Tiger and Panther tanks, the Panzer IV had been designed in the years leading up to the outbreak of WWII, and was intended for a different role than it eventually played, which was as a form of infantry support with the mobile artillery function rolled into one. It was a heavier tank than the previous numbered types, and was well-designed, although it did suffer from the typical WWII German over-engineering that made them complex, expensive and slow to manufacture, as well as difficult to maintain. The type went through a number of enhanced variants including a more powerful engine to give better performance, improved armour thickness for survivability, and latterly the provision of a larger gun with a longer high velocity barrel that was based upon the Pak.40, but with shortened recoil mechanism and an enlarged muzzle-brake that helped contain the powerful recoil from the 75mm gun. The new gun was in direct reaction to the first encounter with the T-34 in Soviet hands, an incident that unnerved the German tankers and their superiors, as they knew very little of its existence until they met it on the battlefield, and didn’t like the manner in which many of their shots just bounced off the sloped glacis of the T-34. The Ausf.G and H were the later mainstream variants of the Pz.IV, and were made from early 1942 until 1944 with over 4,000 made, some of which were manufactured at Vomag, Krupp-Gruson, and Nibelungenwerke, one of the largest factories in the German area of influence, based in St Valentin, Austria. By the war’s end Nibelungenwerk was the practical home of the Panzer IV, and as such was bombed heavily, strangling production of the last variant, the Ausf.J as the bombers took their toll. The Kit This is a new boxing of the recently tooled model of the Panzer IV from MiniArt of a vehicle that was made at the famous Nibelungenwerk factory, with a mixture of parts from other boxings plus some new sprues. It is an Interior kit, which extends to the full hull, with a great deal of detail included that should keep any modeller happy and beavering away at their hobby for a long time. The kit arrives in a heavily loaded top-opening box, and inside are sixty-nine sprues in grey styrene of various sizes, a clear sprue, two sheets of Photo-Etch (PE) in a card envelope, a decal sheet and thick instruction booklet with colour profiles for the decal options on the inside covers. It has individual link tracks included that are made up on a jig (more about those later), and the level of detail is exceptional, which is something we’ve come to expect from MiniArt’s output. Construction begins with the interior, which is made up on a main floor with bulkheads, ammo stores with individual rounds that have stencil decals for each one, then a complete Maybach HL 120 TRM engine in a cradle. The engine is begun by putting together the transmission and final drive units, which are positioned at the front of the hull next to the driver, with a set of instruments fitted to the top that have their own decals. This is inserted into the interior with the drive-shaft, and the driver’s seat is assembled along with the foot and hand controls, plus a worrying amount (from his point of view) of shells behind his area, plus another three ready-round boxes layered on top of various positions around the turret base. A ring of tread-plate defines the location where the turret basket will sit, and various other components are arranged around a simple seat for the radio operator/bow gunner, then the engine is assembled from its various shaped elements, topped off with the rocker covers, decals and oil filler caps. A lot of ancillaries are added, including tons of drive-belts, engine bearers, exhaust manifolds, turbocharger between the cylinder banks, dynamo and pipework. It all fits snugly into the engine compartment section of the interior to await boxing in by the hull sides. The highly detailed brake-assembly for each drive sprocket is a drum-shaped affair that comprises a substantial number of parts, some of which are PE, and it really does look the part, fitted to the inside of each hull wall flanking the two crew seats, with more small equipment boxes and a fire extinguisher fitted nearby, then the exterior face of each side is detailed with the final drive housing, suspension bump-stops, return roller bases and fuel filler caps before they are glued into place on the hull sides, with the lower glacis plate helping keep them perpendicular to the floor. Back in the engine compartment, the empty spaces around the Maybach engine are filled with airbox, fuel tank and large radiator panels that are set in the compartment at an angle, as demonstrated by the scrap diagram. The rear bulkhead closes-in the final side of the compartment, and this is festooned with detail including twin cylindrical exhausts, armoured covers for the track tensioner arms, stiffener plates and access hatches, including a manual starter slot. Under the tank a plethora of mine protection in the shape of armoured plates that wrap around the suspension exits and the edges of the hull are applied, and up front the upper glacis with access hatches and their details are glued in place open to show off the detail, or closed at your whim, and both fenders are slotted into the sidewalls, attaching via the usual slot and peg method. A run of track links is pinned to the glacis plate with brackets, and another is made up and slung across the front of the lower glacis on a bracket in one of two variations. The addition of an internal cross-brace between the two hull sides with oil can and fire extinguisher strapped on stiffens the hull laterally, and more shells are stashed on trays to the sides of the turret, again with a painting guide and stencil decals, joined by a number of dump bags of ammo for the coax MG34, which completes the lower hull for now. The upper hull is constructed in a similar manner to the lower, with the roof accepting side panels after making some small holes, the engine bay is fitted out with the side vents for the radiators and a flat rear panel that closes the area in. At the front the thick armour panel is glued in, the bow machine gun rear is created and set aside while the hatches and the barrel of the MG are fitted, mostly from the outside, together with the armoured covers for the radiator louvers, hatch levers and lifting hooks, plus the jack-block in its bracket, or the empty bracket if you choose. The driver’s armoured vision port cover and the ball-mount for the gun complete the exterior work for now, and the assembly is flipped over to detail the inside, which includes a highly detailed set of radio gear that has a painting guide next to it. The afore-mentioned bow gun’s breech and aiming mechanism are inserted into the back of the ball-mount, and the forward side sections of the upper hull are detailed with gas mask canisters, vision ports, stowage boxes and levers for operating the ports. Flipping the assembly again and it is time to add the hatch covers and interior louvers to the radiator exits, which are delicate parts and can be inserted in the open or closed positions, with a change in how they are fitted. A pair of fans that cool the radiators within the engine compartment using movable slatted panels to adjust cooling as necessary, and these two sub-assemblies are mated before the panels are glued in place with a choice of open or closed louvers. A set of four towing cable eyes are attached to the exterior along the way, but you’re responsible for providing the braided cable, which should be 152mm long and 0.75mm thick, times two. These are wrapped around two hooks on the rear in a figure-of-eight pattern. Now it’s pioneer tool time, with barrel cleaning rods, shovel, the well-detailed jack, a massive spanner, plus a set of four spare road wheels in an open-topped box with spanners strapped to the sides, and yet more track-links in a cage on the opposite side. The rear mudguards and front splash-guards are applied now, and the prominent external fire extinguisher with PE frame (and alternative styrene one if you don’t feel up to wrangling the PE) is fitted to the fender with a pair of wire-cutters and a pry-bar, all of which have optional PE mounts. Just when you think you’ve finished the tools, there’s a crank for the engine, track-spreaders, a choice of two axe installations, plus some styrene springs to allow you to show the front guards in the up position. We’re getting closer to the tracks now, but there are still a lot of wheels that need to be made. They are mounted in pairs on twin bogeys with a leaf-spring slowing the rebound of the twin swing-arms. There are two types of outer casting with two axles (for working or fixed suspension) that the swing-arms slot onto, and are then closed in by a cover, which you also have a choice of two designs for. Finally, the twin wheels with their hubcap slide onto the axles, and a small oil reservoir is glued to the side of the assembly. You make four for the left side and a mirrored set of four for the right, plus two-part idler, a choice of two-part drive sprockets and eight paired return-rollers that fit onto the posts on the sides of the hull. The suspension units have slotted mounting points that strengthen their join, and once you’re done, you can begin the tracks. The tracks are individual links with separate track pins, but don’t freak out yet! Each link has three sprue gates that are small and easy to nip off and clean up. The included jig will hold eleven links, which are fitted with the guides uppermost. Then you cut off one complete set of 11 track pins off the sprue and slide them into the pin-holes in the sides of the connected links all at once. They are then nipped off their length of sprue and can be tidied up. I added a little glue to the tops of the pins to keep them in place which resulted in a length of track that is still flexible. Just minimise the amount of glue you use. There are 101 links per track run, so you’ll be busy for a while, but the result is fabulously detailed as you can see from the pic. I didn’t bother cleaning up the mould seams for expediency, but if you plan on modelling your Panzer with clean tracks, you can sand them away if you feel the need. Two decal options have schurzen fitted, and first you must add the styrene and PE brackets on each side, then the long supports for the hook-on schurzen panels, with small horizontal in-fill panels stopping things falling between them and the hull. There are three vertical mesh panels per side, with diagonal front and rear lower edges to reduce the likelihood of them digging into the ground and being ripped off, and these are prepped with additional PE stiffeners and styrene brackets to latch onto the bar mounts, with a simple tapered section added to the front when the main panels are in place. Bear in mind that these panels were subject to the rigors of battle so were often bent, damaged or even missing entirely. Use your references and/or imagination to decide whether you wish to depict a fresh set, or a set that have been in the field for a while. Finally, we get to the turret, which begins with the ring and minimalist “floor”, to which some equipment, a drop-seat and the hand-traverse system are fixed. The inside of the mantlet is fixed to the floor after having the pivot installed, with the newly assembled breech glued into the rear once it has its breech block and closure mechanism fixed in place. The breech is then surrounded by the protective tubular frame, and the stubs of the coax machine gun and sighting gear are slid in through holes in the inner mantlet. A basket for spent casings is attached under the breech, the sighting tube and adjustment mechanism are put in place along with the coax machine gun breech, then the basket is made up from the circular tread-plated floor with tubular suspension struts and other equipment, seats, immediate ready-rounds and spare dump-bags for the coax. It is glued into the turret base, which then has the other facets added to the roof panel, with an exhaust fan and outer armoured cover included. The side hatches are the clamshell type, and can be posed open, closed or anywhere in-between, with latches and handles added, and grab-handles over the top to ease exit. The commander’s cupola is a complex raised part with five clear vision ports around it, and a choice of open or closed outer parts holding the clear lenses in place, sliding into the ring like the real thing. A ring of cushioned pads covers the interstices, and stirrup-shaped parts are fixed under each lens, with a single circular hatch with latch and handle glued into the top ring in open or closed versions, hinging open rather than the earlier two-part clamshell hatch. A blade-sight from PE is sited at the front of the cupola with an empty machine-gun ring around the base, and the turret can now be closed up with the lifting hooks each made up of two parts, and basket with optional open lid on the rear. The gun has a flattened faceted sleeve made up after removing some small raised lines, and the muzzle brake gives you a choice of four styles that differ slightly from each other if you look closely. Pick the one suitable for your decal choice, and you can begin to put the gun tube together. The outer mantlet section with the sleeve slotting into the front is applied along with a choice of two coax installations, and a single-part styrene barrel fitting into the front with a key ensuring correct orientation, then the muzzle-brake with the same feature. The turret has a bustle stowage box with optional open lid and internal details, and curved un-perforated metal schurzen are applied to the styrene brackets glued to the roof and sides, with gaps for the side hatches that are filled by a pair of hinged doors for more complete protection, and if you were ever in doubt, you get open or closed variants with PE latches. At the rear a pair of shaped PE mesh panels fit horizontally into the spaces between the bustle stowage and the schurzen, again stopping things from falling through. Because of the complexity and realism of the turret and its ring, it drop-fits into position as the final act, as bayonet lugs aren’t present in the real thing. Markings A generous six decal options are included on the sheet, and they have a wide variety of schemes that are appropriate for late war tanks, with not a monotone vehicle in sight, all having highly camouflaged surfaces over the standard base coat of dunkelgelb (dark yellow), some with the dotted Ambush scheme, one with a winter distemper scheme. From the box you can build one of the following: 6.Pz.Rgt. 3.Pz.Div. Poland, Autumn 1944. Variant 1 6.Pz.Rgt. 3.Pz.Div. Poland, Autumn 1944. With Toma Schützen Variant 2 1.Pz.Rgt. 1.Pz.Div. Hungary, November 1944 1.Pz.Rgt. 1.Pz.Div. Hungary, November 1944 With Toma Schützen II./Pz.Rgt.16, 116.Pz.Div. ‘Windhund’, Battle of the Bulge, December 1944 Unidentified Unit, Winter 1944/45 Decals are by MiniArt’s usual partner, DecoGraph, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion This is one well-detailed kit that should keep you occupied for a good number of modelling hours. The complete interior is depicted with a splendid level of detail, which should allow even the most detail-focused modeller to build it out of the box. Careful painting will bring it to life, and leaving some hatches open will show viewers just how claustrophobic going into war in these iron beasts would have been, and likely still is. Highly recommended. At time of writing, there’s a generous 20% discount on this kit at Creative Models, so click away! Review sample courtesy of
  6. I could see myself adding a Zero or two to my collection, especially as they're likely to be as good or better engineered as the P-51s. They'll practically build themselves All those that are disappointed, remember. You're not duty-bound to state your disappointment that it doesn't suit you. Just move along and let those that wanted a Zero have their day
  7. So they're an hour in front of us, so while we're all having our bangers and mash at 6pm, they should be unveiling their new project. I hope it's a 1:48 Westland Wendover. Gorgeous aircraft!
  8. That's the one James Sounds like I had a lucky escape then. I've got a few of the Macross kits in the stash, mostly older stuff, but I've also got a Hasegawa VF-1J/A Valkyrie in 1:48, which is a bit nice
  9. Nice work - is this the smaller one, or the BIG one? I always fancied the big one they had at Arts & Crafts in Chester, but could never afford it. I think I've got the little one in my stash now. A bit of a nostalgia purchase
  10. He's been to space more than the rest of us, both on TV and IRL Jealous.
×
×
  • Create New...