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Mark Harmsworth

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About Mark Harmsworth

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  1. Mark Harmsworth


    The leading part of Mustang wings were puttied to fill in the panel lines. then the wing was painted with a laquer, and so a uniform colour. The fuselage would be bare metal with some of the panels showing differently - for example around the exhaust. This is an image of the wing: Mark
  2. To back up what others are saying - on 3rd April '44 FAA Hellcats participated in one of the attacks on the Tirpitz. The Hellcats, along with Wildcats, were there to suppress the shore and ship-based anti-aircraft guns, with other types attacking with bombs. The Hellcats carried no underwing ordnance. This is them on the deck of HMS Emperor about to say hello to the Tirpitz.
  3. The second option. No need to re-apply the primer. Mark
  4. I built it and followed the instructions. I was wary about the legs too but they survived fine. Just be a bit careful. As to airbrushing wheels, I'm sorry to say I just don't get it. Especially in 1/72. I jam them onto a cocktail stick and use a brush. The cocktail stick means you can rotate them gently. Mark
  5. That's interesting - so you use two primers? I ended up switching to an acrylic primer for the same reason but I use that over the whole model. Is there a reason you apply Mr Surfacer as well? Mark
  6. I use pastel crayons and sandpaper which creates the same thing I think. When I'm applying pastels for an exhaust stain on an aircraft I do that right at the end with a dedicated brush and and don't seal it. That seems to work fine. Mark
  7. If you mean dust on dry paint then get an anti-static brush. I find that even models in my cabinet with closed doors somehow get a layer of dust eventually. If you mean dust on wet paint then maybe find something to cover the model while the paint is drying. I use a plastic cake container or for larger models an upturned plastic box. Mark
  8. I think you are probably out of luck with trying to repair it. That crack will always be there no matter what you do to it. Someone will no doubt suggest vac-forming a new one but that's way beyond my skill set. I can imagine the frustration. Mark
  9. This doesn't really answer any of the questions but I think it's rather nice. A BBC tribute on his death. Mark
  10. With those colours I would probably use a light grey. I use oils so, for me, that would be 'Payne's Gray'. Mark
  11. This happens from time to time - high demand I guess. That's a little unusual. Maybe they had other things on their minds. How the ORBs are completed does vary sqn by sqn. Some have both serials and codes which is great for research - but most don't have both. However there is a lot of combat reports, which is not that common, see the 'Appendices September to November' document. Although there's 249 pages of them so someone would have to be very motivated to go through that lot! I'm interested in Geoffrey Wellum as well - I've just read his book 'First Light' which I thought was a great read. Good luck with your search. Mark
  12. If you've got a date for this then there's a good chance the ORB's could tell you. 92 sqn seems to record serial nos. against pilots in 1940. In June he is recorded as flying P9316. See here: https://discovery.nationalarchives.gov.uk/details/r/D8455513 Mark
  13. I always thought that anything from Aviaeology would be more correct than anything else on the planet. Sort of jokey that but I do think they set a high standard for research and quality. Mark
  14. It may well be the primer having an effect on the putty as @bmwh548 has suggested. I had that problem s few years ago. I was using Alclad primer but I cant recall what putty I was using. I know I switched to Mr Surfacer 500 as a filler with Ultimate Primer and I havent had that since. I'm sure there are those that can explain the chemistry. Mark
  15. I have those various widths of Tamiya tape but I mostly just use the widest. Stick a length on to a clean kitchen tile and cut strips off using a steel ruler and a sharp blade. Mark
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