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I have thought: and why not try to apply the C1 powder over my styrene polished and varnished? Will it work? Well, the result on this unpainted surface is... surprising! The Chrome is much lighter than all what I could get up to now, and I have an amazing mirror effect that the photo below doesn't fully render. I can give a score of 17/20 to this result, but I am going to do a new trial with a little modif, on which I will come-back later...
Since it’s the end of Summer as I write this, and the days are getting shorter, I thought it would be appropriate to put up a display of my “Sunset Stripe” cars. Unsurprisingly, most of them are MPCs, since that was right up their alley! Check out this collection at the link below, and get your time machines ready! https://adamrehorn.wordpress.com/model-kits/scores-and-collections/sunset-stripes-car-collection/
I am very grateful to Roy for sending me these samples. I must though admit that I am a bit sceptical about these Chrome powders (I hope I am wrong with Uschi's one). They give a very nice finish if you want a dark Chrome but I am afraid none of them will give the right light Chrome as a plated one such the AMT. I made a last trial (I said I'm a tough guy...) with 95% Gloss White and only 5% Light Blue. The result is a still a bit lighter Chrome (let's say 15/20 instead of 14,5 with the previous version) but it remains much darker than the AMT Chrome, the reference. The undercoat influences a bit the final result, but not so much in fact, that's the problem. But we shall see with Uschi's one, maybe I will go up to 16/20... The minimum score for me to accept such a solution as a good compromise. I hope this quest is not too boring for the reader, but I consider that the Chrome parts (bumpers, particularly) are a very important aspect of a vintage car like the Ford Mustang (much more than the engine fan, fe), one of the most obviously visible elements of the model once finished. Thanks for watching... Olivier
I managed to dig this out again today and made some progress, at least on the technique and jig, if not on actual forward progress on the kit. I mentioned in my previous post about changes that I needed to make to the jig. Those were completed today. A small spacer from .020" card was added under the hub to stop the wires slipping off underneath it, and the whole thing was then glued to a bigger piece of card to make it easier to hold. I also numbered the odd holes so I didn't have to count every time! I then rethreaded the rim with .006" fishing line. That didn't look right and I had trouble getting the last few lines into the groove in the hub. I took it apart again and ran the micro saw around the hub a few times to make the slot deeper, then I dug out some .005" line, ran it over a Sharpie so I could see it, and threaded the rim again. I was hoping that a deeper, cleaner, slot, and slightly thinner line, would be enough..... I'm much happier with that! With the holes numbered it takes less than half an hour to add all the lines, so I think I've got the process sorted out now! I will have to remove the lines one more time as I forgot to cut small slots in the rim mating surface to add the second set of spokes, so I'll do that tomorrow then rethread it for the final time and secure the lines. Ian
Hi All, After seeing the two beautiful builds of the Aoshima kit in the Ready for Inspection section, I was wondering how the Fujimi, kit stands up to it. Engine detail isn’t too important to me, since I build cars as curbsides. The Fujimi kit seems to be slightly less expensive and provides photo etched parts. Is there a general preference for one or the other kit? Thanks! Ben
Bought these off the Bay for a fiver each, came in plastic bags with a decal sheet, no instructions, but they are snap together! The WRC car has it's own decals sheet, the JDM/ Hellaflush tuner has mostly home-brewed decals and a few aftermarket. The tyre decals on both are 1/43rd scale! The roof decals may be the wrong way round, but I couldn't find a roof photo from my research! Vans are USA made shoes my boys used in BMX racing 40 years ago!
Thanks again kapam. Yes the Kirkey seat is from Dirtmodeller, and very nice it is too. then padded with bicycle fabric handlebar tape. Most of the decals are home printed plus one sheet of Monster Energy ones. No the WRC Mini was too heavy and although built by Prodrive near here(Subaru/Colin Mcrae etc) it wasn't as competitive as the rest of the turbo 4X4 cars.
If nobody can say I am not ambitious, nobody can’t say you are slow and ineffective ! Thanks a lot and don’t worry about the stamps!
Not necessary I should have it, will send it today. Update: have included a sample of the other two powders (iron / steel). I must apologise for our international stamps. Could also have chosen a specimen depicting: - A cow; or - A bicycle; or - A typical Dutch house; or - A tulip. Thought I'd pick the worst:
Very kind, Roy! I accept, of course. In this case, I will leave for now this aspect and focus on other ones (and there are plenty!!) Do you need me to recall you my adress? I suppose so, and I am gonna send you a PM for that. Cheers Olivier
I can send you a bit if you like.
Thanks a lot Roy for these suggestions. I didn't know Uschi had such powders in his catalog. As you seem to have this Chrome powder from Uschi, can you show me the Chrome you get with it? Before buying it, I would like to be sure I will get a lighter Chrome than with the C1... And I am going to study with care the 2nd option too. Cheers Olivier
Have you tried Uschi chrome powder? See here. I like the product, it's simple and convincing. Another option would be to chromeplate the plastic. See here. One thing is for sure, nobody can rightfully say you aren't ambitious.
I have got my second box, the opportunity to do a comparison between the different options, each one with advantages and drawbacks: 1) Molotow LC: the color is very good (9/10) but the brightness is really not convincing (4/10). 13/20 2) Pale Blue (my last sample) + C1: the color remains too dark (pity, the influence of the base coat color is low) (6/10) while the mirror effect is very good (8,5/10). 14,5/20 3) The AMT Chrome is great: color 10/10 and mirror effect 10/10, but the front bumper has a wrong shape (especially vertical appendixes), there are mould lines, sprues de-clumping marks and the pads are missing. Conclusion: Up to now, I could not get (despite my efforts) the great AMT Chrome with neither the C1 powder, neither the Molotow LC. I don't know what to do anymore.
Another cracking build Charles. The weathering is superb, but if the police stop it and see that tyre, the smelly stuff will hit the whirly thing. Those V8's were noisy so and so's. John.
Nice carpet, it already adds realism! For glueing, how about placing it top down, wider then the floor, make sure it's flattened and tightened, and then place the floor on top. Then cut and turn over.
Here is the result I could get with my last trials: I chose to buff (despite the recommendations of the instructions) my samples with the Tamiya compounds, and then used dish soap (a bath in US tank with water) as detergent. The C1 powder has worked on this polished and washed surface. With both samples, I get a Chrome a bit lighter, very nice but still too dark. It doesn't seem really necessary to use a metallic base coat, the solution to get a lighter Chrome seems to be rather to have a lighter Blue base coat. I am gonna try to lighten my H45, by mixing it with Gloss White...
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