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About Patrik

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    Established Member

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Bilovice nad Svitavou, Czech Republic
  • Interests
    Interwar RAF and FAA

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  1. Thanks, guys. Speaking of noses. The only thing, I managed today, was finally fixing the engine position (in all previous photos it was just freely nesting in the internal structure) and adding some cowling struts. The reason was mainly because we, you know, my wife and I, together, you know, decided our flower garden needs some serious reconstruction. And as the weather was quite fine this weekend after some two weeks or so... I think you understand, what I am talking about.
  2. How to fix your short upper wing in five easy steps. Thanks for helping me find the Courage, Stuart. Step 1 - Monday. Step 2 - Tuesday. Step 3 - later the same day. Step 4 - Friday, because the guys would have been lost on the football pitch without me on Wednesday, and the Ice-hockey World Championship match between Czechia and Latvia on Thursday was more exciting than expected. Step 5 - Saturday. Now I have to reconstruct the ribs and do rest of the works on the wing. This will take some time, I am afraid.
  3. Good progress over the weekend. Whereas the big photo shows the oil cooler already in place, here it is still on its "sprue". I had discarded the vac part early in the build, because I thought it was too rough, only to find out later my scrape-yard could not provide the desired profile for the first time in many years. So I had to scratch build the profile first and then scratch build the oil cooler out of the scratch-build profile. The upper surface of the horizontal fin featured asymmetrically placed slot to help the modeller to fit the vertical fin with correct incidence angle. And the vertical fin had an appropriate plug. I cut off the vertical fin from the rudder first, in order to allow for the incidence angle to be applied just to the fin. But then, when I test fitted the assembly, I found that using the slot would have put the rudder hinge line in completely wrong angle, So I filled in the slot with a square cut from a plastic sheet, modified the fin by inserting pieces of plastic in a way shown approximately by the yellow lines in the picture below and this did the trick.
  4. The fuselage glued together. And then filled - sanded - re-scribed - repeat. The plastic is quite soft, contributing significantly to the "repeat" part of the job. I used the cabinet scraper to make the curved slot for the horizontal part of the empennage. I have to say I like the tool more and more. And the Dart has wings. Not an easy job at all, as the wing roots have quite a complicated shape, which did not fit the fuselage and the hoped-for incidence angle at all.
  5. Hi Stuart, This is how I solved the rear gun many years ago. The brownish light grey is my early attempt on Cerrux Grey - the main reason I was not very happy with the kit in the end.
  6. Positive, Stuart. I posted a picture in your Seafox(es) thread.
  7. Hi Jon, I hope I am not too late. Since you are doing a Mk. III, please be aware of the actual rear gun arrangement. It is wrong in most scale drawings, including the drawings in the kit. Have a look here for more. https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234997638-vildebeest-mk-iv-–-special-hobby-172-restored-links/&tab=comments#comment-2267407 The cabinet scraper (though kidney scarper sounds like far cooler instrument) is a marvelous tool indeed. Razor thin trailing edges in a minute (or so). Patrik
  8. Few shots of the completed interior and engine before the fuselage is closed.
  9. Finally completed the interior structure. First I thought it would end up like this. But then I thought again and now I feel it looks confusing enough to be convincing when installed inside the fuselage.
  10. It is so unfair. How can I ever build my own Swordfish with this beauty forever imprinted in my mind. Wonderful job, Fuad. Patrik
  11. The bad weather today allowed me study the construction techniques of the Blackburn company in great detail. I even unintentionally confirmed the sturdiness of the setup, when the whole assembly felt from the workbench down on the floor with zero damage. The engine section has not been completed yet. Additionally, the missing cockpit parts that I will add after the painting.
  12. My wood scraper arrived yesterday. I eagerly started testing it right after dinner and after an hour and half of pure joy the heavy work on both wigs was over. What an excellent tool! If I had died yesterday, I would have died grinning happily. Many thanks for the tip again, Troy, I highly recommend the tool to anyone with the same task ahead. Patrik
  13. I built the Seafox some years back, unfortunately still before my Britmodeller times, so no build photos available, I am sorry. The kit is in my opinion really good, I do not remember single issue with the fit, the principal shapes or proportions are right. However, the interior is very basic and you will have to invest reasonable work here, and you will eventually find plenty of small exterior details to add, if you like. I used the Falcon vac canopy instead the "armored" glass provided in the kit, but in the end I left the rear cockpit more or less open as shown on many interwar Seafox photos. I painted the the kit in Cerrux Grey/Siler Dope combination, but my first attempt on Cerrux Grey (Humbrol 129) was not a complete success - at least as far as I can say. Patrik
  14. Made some basic work on the wings in order to conclude the unequal span issue. Leading edges are more or less in their final shapes, trailing edges are waiting for the hopefully magical tool (described above) to arrive in my post. However, I still have to answer some questions from the January 28th post by John. So, here we go: I suspect that the drawings you show are by Harry Woodman. Yes Does either wing fit the plan? The lower wing is pretty much acceptable, especially taking into account what we are comparing it with. The original drawings by Harry Woodman had been probably scaled down, then printed in the magazine, scanned and scaled up by me (I had to upscale the drawings in 1/72 using the scale bar provided). All this with a lot of potential distortions involved along the way (says the surveyor in me). If my knowledge of the Dart is correct then the kit outer wing panels should be identical in shape, including aileron position, and size, with the exception of the Bat like folding wing fillets. If this is so then the top centre section leading edge width plus the two tip differences (port and stbd) in the plan view, should equal the width of the lower centre section leading edge. And here we have the problem which I tried to visualize for you below. None of the wingtips is 100% correct, but the error is much more prominent on the upper wing and cares for the missing millimeters. Both final ribs are "hanging" in the rear. They should both end on the aileron hinge line. So I decided to modify the upper wing tips accordingly. I think I can live with the lower wing.
  15. Purchased straightaway. Thanks a lot! Patrik
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