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Patrik

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    Male
  • Location
    Bilovice nad Svitavou, Czech Republic
  • Interests
    Interwar RAF and FAA

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  1. As I brush paint, I believe the fin is quite safe, though you can never be sure, of course. Additionally, the black-silver border has been solved before I glued the tail parts. However, I also admire people that put on the decals before the majority of the work is done. I would be too afraid I damage them unintentionally.
  2. Used three different enamel paints on the Gauntlet. The front part is Tamiya XF-16 Flat Aluminium, two coats were fine. The glossy parts around the cockpit, guns and below the fin are Tamiya XF-11 Chrome Silver, here one coat was enough. And the fabric parts of the airframe, empennage (and later wings as well) are Revell 90 Silver. Used to be two coats, however a few years ago, Revell evidently changed the formula and it is three coats now. On the other hand, it is much easier to overcoat now, as the new layers do not dissolve the previous ones as easily as before the change.
  3. Right before short vacation managed adding the upper wing. This time, though not without some fight, thank heavens, without undue accident as well.
  4. You should have more trust in your fellow britmodeller. I have both 72127 and 72128 in stash. They both contain the large sprue (by the way, common to all Kora Fairey IIIF/Gordon/Seal family boxings), which you can see in the Rumourmonger thread linked in my previous post, page 2, post from September 5, 2020, and which contains also the late more rounded fin. And then - in addition to it - the small sprue from page 4, post from April 23, 2021, which contains the early more rectangular fin and the cockpit decking, appropriate for G-AABY. This will allow you building G-ABBY with minimum extra efforts except covering the rearmost cockpit opening. However, your build, your choice, just thought you would welcome an advice.
  5. Thanks for your sympathy, guys! Working on the next try and using the inevitable technological breaks for completing other critical assemblies. Like the engine below.
  6. The plan for this evening was erecting the upper wing. It was a good plan and it went quite well right up the moment, when I needed to apply the gentlest of pressures to both wings in order to force the four inner interplane struts into the corresponding holes in the lower wings. Which ended up in seven out of the eight interplane struts broken in the extension, the sighting assembly from the previous post gone and biplane Gauntlet upgraded to monoplane again. I knew it was a wise decision not to fix the windshield. Next try is going to end up better. I am sure about that. Moreover, it allows me to correct the reason, which necessitated the said gentlest of pressures. The inner struts should be about 1 mm longer than the outer ones. That’s what they call learning the hard way.
  7. Thank you! Partly (still just) temporary installation of the sighting equipment in order to get the geometry right. I am not going to fix the windshield (meaning unfortunately the Aldis sight either) before the upper wing is on and painted. Too many chances for damaging the transparent part.
  8. Pity, silver doped Ansons from No. 217 and 269 Sqn. are well documented. As well as from No. 48 Sqn., however these are rather boring.
  9. Would you consider No. 217 or No. 269 Sqn?
  10. Painting in the interim. Interesting, how many colours you need to paint silver-wing biplane. Counted ten so far, excluding interior.
  11. With eight interplane struts, the probability that one of them does not fit, equals - according to my own experience - to more or less 100 %. Excellent work so far.
  12. Knew it would be a bother, and indeed, it was. I apologize for repeating myself, but I love scratchbuilding, especially if it is just one part. I do accept scratchbuilding two identical parts, more often than not you cannot avoid symmetry when building airplanes. However, doing eight such, that puts me in the same league as Sisyphus. The whole set of the extended interplane struts illustrated below. However, this also means I can finally start with the next step. The complete assembly, ready to be painted.
  13. All Kora IIIF kits have one and the same undercarriage arrangement (except seaplanes, of course). 72127 or 72128 is what you need. Please have a look here, and especially page 4 of the thread. 72120 or 72121 would not work for you, trust me.
  14. Thank you! Work and social obligations did not allow more than completing the white metal cowling details, painting it with flat aluminium to reveal eventual blemishes (you can't really tell on the bare metal surface), and correcting the few I found. Next week is going to be even worse, no modelling for me at least until Saturday.
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