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About CrazyCrank

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  • Birthday 09/30/1958

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    Almond paste, and modelling of course

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  1. Evening, gentlemen Before leaving house tomorrow for 5 days vacation, I've finished to give some enhancements to the left inside panel, using 0,3 mm copper wire: - Added an embossed beading at the top of the door (0.3 mm copper wire, filling with Tamiya putty to join the plastic top of the door) - Added a locking doorhandle, bucket shaped, minus than 2 mm wide, and 1.5 mm high. This will be painted with Molotov chrome at the final stage - Added the embossed curve in the middle of the door, not as perfect as I'd dreamed, but acceptable. . All that stuff has been re-primed white, before the "coming soon" layers of "fauve leather" paint. Stay tuned if you like, next step next week, and thanks for watching
  2. Fantastic job on this piano hinge, Harvey ! I would like to be capable to do the same thing....at 1:24 scale
  3. Morning Chaps I've glued in place the exhaust line, painted gun metal: Thanks for watching
  4. I've primed, sanded, filled, re-sanded, re-primed one front seat, and now, it looks correct. Same tedious job has to be done on the other one, and on rear seat. Then, they will be painted fauve leather, and weathered, using oil paints... Micro surgery has been done on the left side of the inside of the car ! Look carefully at the photo below: You can see several differences between the left inside and the right one, which is as it was on the sprue, at the moment: - Backward of the inside, under the armrest, there was initially an embossed curve on the leather, whose shape was hairpin bend. This is not close to the real, where the is only an embossed curved line. This has been fixed, removing the unnecessary part with an Exacto. - Forward on the inside, on the door, there was on the kit part 2 "horizontal" kerf / grooves (I don't know the right word) and this is false compared to the real: The top one exist, but its shape is totally different, I've modified it removing the unnecessary part and engraving the correct one. The lower one doesn't exist: In reality, there is an embossed curve. So, I've filled this groove, and later on, I'll try to simulated the embossed curve of the real car (using nylon fishing line or copper wire...) - The rear part of the door, on the kit, has been put too much backward. I've fixed that, filling the groove between body and door, and engraving a new one (whose shape is not perfectly close to the real ... pity) - And finally, the front part of the door (the curved line between the front part of the door, and the body), isn't placed correctly on the kit part. I've engraved a new one slightly backward , and filled the wrong one, Having primed all this stuff, I've had to sand, fill, prime several times before getting a correct aspect. This took several hours, but it was worth the effort Hereunder, 2 ref. photos of the car that Heller tried to emulate (All ref. Photos taken by "Cateralp" of the Heller-for-ever forum, in Rochetaillée Museum To be more exact, I should have moved a bit lower the window lift crank, and the door opening device, but best if the enemy of better ! I'll try probably to add the embossed beading at the top of the door and the chromed doorhandles that you can see above... Stay tuned if you like, and thanks for watching
  5. Four wheels assembled : We're now going to begin the painting of the different parts that compose the inside of the car... Stay tuned if you like
  6. Evening, my Lords Four wheels have been assembled. Ultimate layer of varnish has been put, and tires has been cleaned with dishwashing liquid. While all this stuff is drying, I've fixed today the transmission shaft, the rear axle and leaf springs on the chassis. As usual with Heller's kit, nothing fit correctly, and a lot of corrections and tries had to be made, but finally, I'm happy with the result: On this last photo, you can see the exhaust line put temporarily in place, primed. It required a lot of sanding before being satisfying ! The exhaust line will be painted gun metal Later, all the underbody will be weathered using pigments (City street dust, Asphalt road dust, Rust, polished metal, Lybian desert sand etc.) Stay tuned if you like and thanks for watching
  7. Evening chaps I've put another layer of polished aluminum on the 14-spokes-parts of the wheels and, once dried, sprayed them with Alclad Semi-Mate Clear. One wheel has been assembled (without glue) before that tiny job, in order to have a look on the possible final effect: Now, I've to wait until tomorrow before handling safely these parts for final assembly Meanwhile, I've made a little progress on this build, painting and weathering the leaf springs and the transmission shaft / gearbox: Stay tuned if you like for next step, and thanks for watching
  8. Thanks @harveyb258 for your contribution...I'll try soon AK extreme metal, for sure
  9. What an explanation, wow ! Thanks a lot for this contribution @Roy vd M. A little precision: I wasn't looking for an ultra shining chrome on my wheels, using Alclad Chrome, if not, I wouldn't have dechromed these parts...For sure I would have prefered to get them a little bit more flashy, but, as I said,after having compared them with those of my ref photos, I think I'm rather close to the real, and they looks so too to you, as I understand. Concerning the disks with 14 spokes (drum disks), they are painted Alclad Polished aluminum (rather close to the real), and the difference with the Alclad Chrome rims is in reality more visible than on the pictures I posted. I've planed to put a little bit of chrome on the 14x4 spokes, using a 1mm thick Molotov Chrome pencil Thank you so much for the utilisation advices for ALclad Chrome...I need clearly to improve my skills with an airbrush However, I've not planed to dechrome all parts of the kit: bumpers , headlights will keep, I think at the moment, their chrome. The others will be dechromed and painted with a Molotiv pencil Stay tuned if you like
  10. My actual build status: Four wheels, ready for assembly: Assembly will be difficult because: - 1/ In order the glue to act, I have first to strip the paint on the contact surfaces, gently with the tip of a scalpel, wearing magnifying glasses - 2/ in order to align perfectly the spokes of 3 parts of each wheel, there is 2 very tiny pins and 2 tiny holes that have to match. And it remains a bit of flash from place to place, not very visible before painting job, making the fit more complicated Wait and see, folks
  11. Hi Jeroens All Alclad metallic colors are ready for airbrushing without any thinning (never thin Alclad metal !) But, to get the desired effect, you must, especially with Alclad chrome (and Alu, copper, steel, brass etc.), spray before a very glossy black smooth layer. There is with Alclad a special color to do that: ALC-305 Gloss Black Base, but a Tamiya Gloss Black works too. Concerning my left middle finger, I fell off a few weeks ago, and had a "mallet finger" (Extensor tendon rupture), as I had 6 years ago in a bike crash on the right middle finger. So I'm wearing, for 6-8 weeks more, a Stack's splint (The plastic stuff on my finger) And yes I work on this model, so disabled, because I've no choice !
  12. Thank you so much Maurice for this explanation . You're right concerning the spokes, they can't be made of aluminum, and when I talked of aluminum for the wheels, I meant aluminum ribs Not sure that on this Talbot they were made of aluminum or steel....anyway, on the photos they are not chromed. So I'm quite happy, your remarks consolidate my choice to dechrome the kit's wheels, and the color I got with Alclad Chrome looks rather correct now
  13. I intended to do that, not sure I've succeeded It was OK for the gloss black base, but for the chrome, I don't master yet the airbrush, pity
  14. Just finished to paint the 3 parts that compose each spoke wheel If you haven't forgotten, I dechromed all those parts because the OOB chrome was too shiny and frankly unrealistic. For indeed, if you look at some ref. photos, the spoke wheels of the real car weren't chromed but probably polished aluminum ! Just take a glimpse at the 2 photos below, and compare the color of the spoke wheel and the chromed strip or chromed car headlight ... So, I decided to spray the dechromed spoke wheels with Alclad Chrome (after a first layer of Alclad Gloss Black Base). I put 2 layers of Chrome and then 2 layers of Alclad Aqua Gloss Clear ALL600 (Thanks to @Roy vd M. ); the lats one this evening... The result after 1 layer of Alclad ALC600 varnish is the following, not too bad with natural light, imperfect in the shade, but really rather convincing: I've to wait 6 hours for the second varnish layer's complete drying, but I think the final result won't be catastrophic Stay tuned if you like and thanks for watching
  15. Thank you so much @rob Lyttle for this very kind critics II had never thought I could inspire one day another modeler with my tips and tricks
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