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CrazyCrank last won the day on June 18 2021

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About CrazyCrank

  • Birthday 09/30/1958

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    Almond paste, photograph, vintage cars, tinkering

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  1. I don’t think so because the resin couldn’t get out of the hollow sections of some letters or numbers, such as R and 0, and also because the supports should be placed at the back of the letters and numbers, and these ones are so thin that they could break while removing supports
  2. Morning chaps Our bags are packed and we are ready to leave in a few hours. I can't resist showing you what I drew in Fusion 360 and then printed in 3D, while waiting to be able to produce it by photogravure. The thickness of the numbers and letters is 0.5 mm, but I think it's perfectly possible to go to 0.3 with the ABS resin I've been using recently, because, once it's UV-cured, it's much stronger than standard resin. Anyway, it was an exercise in style, for fun, and, once again, I'm amazed by the quality of the printing and what can be achieved with these little consumer resin 3D printers. Oh ! a little precision: I've printed 20 copies and only 1 is perfect, 2 broken, and the others have an issue with the letter "R" (the interior of upper part of the letter is filled with resin) I must improve the settings of the printer and the orientation of the part to print. Have fun and stay safe...See you next time in two months
  3. Truly impressive, my jaws dropped on the floor !
  4. Good evening gentlemen Leaving France on Tuesday, I didn't have time to undertake any ambitious tasks with my 300 SLR..... But, I think I've finished to work on body elements. I've made some additions, to be closer with the real car, and so: - I've drilled four 0.35 mm holes on the lateral parts of the left fairing, in front of the driver and the windshield, which have received four 0.6 mm fake screws to simulate the real fasteners - Upon this same part, I've drilled two holes which have received 0.8 mm lat rivets, as on the real - And also upon it three holes that exist on the real car, of which one, the one closest to the windscreen, is covered by a drilled plate. - Screws and rivets have been designed with Fusion 360 and 3D printed at 10 microns thick Z layer with my Elegoo Mars pro. Most of them came out badly, but I had printed 100 copies of each, so... - finally, I made from a 0,1 mm thick plastic sheet a microscopic part (0,7 mm x 1,4 mm), supposed to represent a part located between the two fairings placed in front of the windscreen, which I think is the opening mechanism of the bonnet. All that stuff have been primed, partially sanded, and it remains to smoothen all the bodywork before painting. I'm not happy with the right headrest at all, but at this point in my build I'm not going to back out now and try to improve the part, it would be too much work for too random a result, so it will stay as it is. Stay tuned and don't be eager now
  5. Thanks Poul, it's very kind of you My headrests, now that they have found the precise position that allows the correct operation of the hinges, are not as thin, delicate and precise as Fastcat's, and above all, gaps have appeared, especially on the inner side of the right one, between the front part of the headrest and the body. Nothing very important, if you don't look too closely, especially considering that this was already the case on most Mercedes 300 SLR models. Curiously, the left headrest is the exact symmetrical of the right one in relation to its sagittal axis, and however, it fits much better than the right one, with a very tiny gap between its base and the bodywork both outside and inside. It is possible that the right headrest has deformed due to resin shrinkage. I had printed 6 of them and they all have the same defect. To do it right, I should have done it differently when designing the parts in Fusion 360, by making a template for the bottom curvatures of the two headrests, and using the photo of this template to draw splines of identical shape. But anyway, that would have meant using software features that I am still far from mastering. I'm finally quite happy with the result, and, for now, with the way the joints promise to work. But to be very satisfied (or very disappointed), I'll have to wait for all the body parts to be painted, varnished, sanded, polished and finally assembled, so several months (I'm going to Canada for 2 months, without my workshop ). I keep my fingers crossed
  6. Nice result ! I couldn't have done better with BMF Regarding the hobby knife, you could consider this one: Bard-Parker surgical handle and various sizes and types of blades. If it were available for a reasonable price in France, I would buy it...
  7. Nice project, for sure I"ll follow it
  8. Good evening my friends No, you haven't finished with me As the putty was fully cured, I've sanded the parts and sprayed over all body parts the first layer of definite primer. A good sanding will be needed tomorrow when it's dry, because, as you can see on third and last pictures below, printing defects has been revealed by the primer (diagonal lines on right headrest). Then I'll spray a second coat. If all turn out as I expect, it will be possible to paint the body on Sunday .... if not, it will be done in March, when I come back from Montreal. Meanwhile, hereunder some pictures of the actual state: In any case, I'm pretty happy with these results Stay tuned until Monday evening if you like
  9. Afternoon gentlemen Headrests and trunk lid glued together, after several checks to ensure a strictly correct position of the parts. After that, it remained little gaps between headrests and trunk lid, so, I've got the putty out of its shelf and applied a first coat where necessary So I'm currently at this point: Of course, after sanding, it will probably still remain some gaps, needing more filling...no problem ! Obviously, the unique steel rod I used to align perfectly the headrests will be replaced by 2 small rods, which I hope to make as little visible as possible (another challenge) I hope to be able to prime the whole body before leaving for Canada (Finally, we leave ) It's not visible but I've sanded the "3 point star MB emblem" and the inscription "300 SLR", because I've planed to replace them by photo-etched parts. I own a MB 3 points star emblem, good point And I own a "300 SL" undesigned Photoetched part. The letter "R" is lacking BUT, I've studied several tutorials on Youtube, explaining how making simply at home photo-etched parts, without spending a lot of money, and I decided to embark on the adventure... but it's another story See you soon
  10. Afternoon guys The fabrication of the hinges for the headrests and the trunk lid has progressed. Notches have been cut off with a jeweler saw (0.3 mm thick blade), I've threaded together with the same steel rod the two headrests, and the 2 hinges inside of each one, inserted the hinges into the notches, joined temporarily the trunk lid and the headrests with masking tape, and made a little video, to see how it works, and to show you as well the result. It works apparently without constraint, and the two headrests remain parallel during the lifting of the trunk lid. So, it seems OK and ready for painting. But before, I've to glue the two headrests on the trunk lid, in strictly correct position. My God, another challenge to face ! Stay tuned for next adventures
  11. Absolutely gorgeous build and super nice paint, congrats Andy
  12. Afternoon chaps A bit of progress on the headrests hinges Have scratched 4 plates in 0.3 mm thick brass sheet, 2 for each headrest. The plats are not strictly identical and it remains a little bit of sanding to do to equalize them. The head of each plate is a little "ring" drilled 0.4 mm, with 0,3 mm wall. The 2 holes of each couple of "rings" will be threaded by a 0,4 mm rod, which will cross as well the inner and outer wall of the headrest. 4 Notches will be placed at strategical points o the body, which will host the base of each 4 plate. The height of the "rings" of each plate will be adjusted in order to get a perfectly horizontal steel rod for each headrest and to get the rods aligned as if they were only one. So, when I'll lift the headrests, they will lift in strictly parallel plans, allowing to lift the trunk lid correctly in the same time, without putting torsional stress on the hinges. Hummm, have you understood what I mean ? Hereunder some pictures to illustrate my goal: The front part of the headrest need also to be sanded to get straight and even. Step by step, the projet is moving forward Stay tuned for next step
  13. Good morning Gentlemen A lot of problems with French administrations (the worst in the world) prevent me to sleep, so I'm working on this MB 300 SLR The mechanism of the hinges for the headrests is being manufactured, and it's a lot of hard work. So, I rested while making the hinge for the fuel flap on the driver's headrest: It's quite useless (except to show the fuel cap on the tank underneath) but it's fun Stay tuned for next steps (It's more than likely that I couldn't travel to Canada next week due to strong epidemic of COVID 9 there)
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