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About CrazyCrank

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  • Birthday 09/30/1958

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    Almond paste, and modelling of course

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  1. Good evening Gentlemen A bit of progress this evening with the scratching of new pedals (no one plastic part is provided in the kit for the pedals, which are only simulated on the floor by an engraving !) Indeed, afterwards, I realized that the 3 rectangles of 0.18 mm brass sheet I'd cut off previously would not be usable to fabricate the pedals, so, I used: - a stronger 0.25 mm brass sheet - 0.5 mm brass wire - a 0.5 mm drill bit - scissors - soldering paste, etc...well known song Before cutting out each pedal from the sheet: - I drilled à 0.5 mm hole, threaded in the hole a too much long brass wire, sticking up from either side, soft soldered the whole set. - Then, I cut out the excess of wire on one side, filed and sanded and polished this side - At last, I cut out the rough pedal and then filed it to get the right shape. Curiously, I achieved to not loose any stuff while working on it ! Once installed on the floor, I got this: A bit of Tamiya mat black on the pedals, and we got: It remains to cut off all the excess of wire on the underside of the floor Later, I've begun the nickel plating job. Unfortunately, my electrical adaptor from English plug to French plug died during the process and I could only nickel plate the gear lever and the handbrake lever. The 4 "shoe-shape " plates for the front seats will be nice plated later on, when I have received a new adapter I ordered immediately. Gear-lever glued in place: Handbrake lever installed: And after having painted Tamiya mat Black the handles of each one: Little overview: . And my seat sockets awaiting to be nickel plated: I've to wait a week before the delivery of my adaptor, so I'm going to continue with the engine Stay tuned if you like and thanks for watching
  2. Hi all Brake fluid is also highly effective to strip the paint, but rather dangerous Now, I use a product named "Glanzer", very rich in ammonia, but infinitely less toxic. You can find it in UK
  3. Yes, obviously Superb work, as always Dan Your skills drive the quality up...unfortunately for us, mere mortals, we cannot (I can't) keep up Hats off, my friend
  4. Evening Gentlemen I've made the 2 last brass plates which go between vertical and horizontal parts of the front seats. I've scratch built the gear lever: - 1 mm brass tube bended correctly - 0.5 mm brass plate 2x2mm drilled 1,.0 mm, threaded on the tube, soft soldered, and filed to get a round shape. - The knob isn't photographed on the picture below, but have been made, using the kit part, and is preciously kept in my "not-to-loose parts box" I've cut off from my 0,18 brass sheet some rectangular bits, which will serve later on to scratch the 3 pedals. At least, I've made the floor carpeting with embossing powder. The ultramarine blue I would have liked to purchase is unavailable since several weeks, so I've ordered a blue lagoon one. It seems to match rather correctly with the petrol blue of the seats and side panels, but I'm not sure to keep it as it is. I wonder if I should not spray the carpeting with Tamiya Ultramarine mat blue ? Any suggestion would be most appreciated ! It remains to scratch building the handbrake lever, to finishing the pedals, and to nickel plating all those brass parts, before to put them in place. Stay tuned for next steps and thanks for watching
  5. Evening chaps A very little progress on that build today, but a sympathetic result with the side panels and the weathering of the upholstery Seats and blue parts of the panels have been weathered with a very light brown wash, then dry brushed. Door handles have been chromed with Molotov Chrome, applied with the point of a tooth tip. The windows will be polished, interior and exterior with Tamiya compounds. It remains to scratch building a handbrake and a gear lever (broken part on the sprue) , fabricating the 2 last plates of the front seats and nickel plating the 4, scratch building new pedals, and to carpeting the floor. Stay tuned for next steps
  6. Good evening chaps I've spent some time this morning to mix different Tamiya paints in order to get a color that is as close as possible than the one on the photo below: It's rather difficult because the color change once dried, and darken a bit. Nevertheless, I think I've got a pretty similar, mixing those paints: - 20 drops of Tamiya Matt ultramarin blue XF8 - 40 drops of Tamiya White X2 - 1 drop of Tamiya Yellow X8 - And 3 drops of Tamiya Sky grey XF66 I've sprayed the 3 seats, and I'm very happy with the result I got, a satin petrol blue, which matches perfectly with the wooden parts of the cabin, and with the 2 colors I chose for the body I've also clear coated with enamel clear the dashboard and the interior side panels, and after a good drying, have unmasked the side panels, and put the decal on the dash: . Indeed, for the panels, the result is very far to be good, with the magnification of the photo which reveal all the defects, but it's quite invisible at the naked eye. It remains to paint blue the clear parts of the panels, and to paint chrome the handles. For the front seats, it remains to fabricate 2 metal plates more, and to fix the 4 plates in place, once Nickel plated I'm thinking about a light weathering and wondering how I'll do that.....possibly a light brown wash ? Stay tuned if you like
  7. Good evening Gentlemen Not a lot of work on this project since the last post, due to the end of the strong lockdown in France : my older son, his wife, and my lovely grand-daughter are at home for a week. Fortunately, the baby takes her naps regularly and I've been able to make something. The end of the engine scratchbuilding requires too much accuracy and tranquillity so I've planned to do that when the children will be back home. So I've went on the seats and their upholstery. Sealing, sanding, filing, piping etc. have occupied a few hours since yesterday evening, and hereunder is the result: Rear seat. It remains some scraping to do, here and there before the final painting Front seats. it remains also some scraping to do. I've finished the piping and primed the seats, which seam correct. I've scratched the rear passengers assist handholds (0.5 mm electrical wire, 0,3 holes, CA glue), situated at the back of the front seats, as well I did for the storage pockets (Paper, folded in accordion, and shaped, glue with Canopy glue at the back of the front seats) I've also begun to scratch the chromed metal plates which all the articulation between the vertical and the horizontal parts of the front seats. Of course, the system won't be functional (though it would have been easily doable), and will not be visible, or very few, but I wanted to be as close as possible with the real, so... Materials: - 0.18 mm brass sheet - 0.8 mm brass tube - A jeweler saw - Soldering paste, well known song ! The goal: Upholstery by Thierry Decorniquet, sur Flickr my interpretation : At the moment, only two have been made, 2 others to come and the nickel plating ! And, to have and idea of the result, once the seats put in the cabin: The floor of the cabin will be covered with ultramarin blue embossing powder, the upholstery will probably be sky blue, somewhat that kind of blue: Stay tuned for the next steps and thanks for watching
  8. Good morning Gentlemen I've just noticed that I'd forgotten to put in my previous post some photos of the rear seat with flattened Half-round strips. Before: After: A good priming with Alclad grey primer should help to reveal all imperfections, to fix before final painting
  9. I love this color, too and your painting job is absolutely stunning However, as Codger, I find the panel line too strong, and the contrast with the body color a bit shocking I wonder if you couldn't reduce it, using a Tamiya Grey panel line accent color, or any homemade wash ? Please consider my remark as a constructive criticism
  10. You're absolutely right, Chase, but we find also some pictures of Delahaye 135 which are still in their original conditions, and whose upholstery has probably inspired several vintage car restorers, as this one (1951 Delahaye 135 M Coach Gascogne par Dubos): And also, we have, near Tours, not far from where I live, an internationally recognized vintage car restorer, Dominique Tessier, whose actual website homepage shows some pictures of a Delahaye 135 currently being restored : Atelier Dominique Tessier This restorer is famous all over the world to make accurate restorations
  11. Evening Chaps Going on with upholstery I've "flattened", as asked @JeroenS for, the half-round strips of the rear seat, and of course, the aspect is better. Then I've taken a look at a real Delahaye 135's front seat, and compared it withe the part provided with the Heller kit: it doesn't match at all ! So, scratch building was necessary. Difficult to start from the kit seat to get what I'd planed to fabricate , so, I rummaged through the spare parts box and found..... a front seat of Talbot Lago Record. And it appeared that the shapes and the upholstery of this one was pretty similar to the real one, but frankly to wide... so, a bit of surgery was needed ! I used: - A razor saw - 2 mm half-round styrene strips - 0.5 mm styrene sheet - A hobby-knife - various files - Mr Hobby Mr Cement S - Several hours First, separate the vertical and the horizontal parts of the Talbot seat. Then reduce the width of the each parts of 2 mm...How: - On each part of the Talbot seat, there is a large surrounding , and in the center, 8 strips, each one approx. 2 mm - I've cut off the 2 central strips, keeping the surrounding as it was - Then cut the surrounding of each part on its center, so got 2x2 parts - Reduced the width of the surrounding by 0.5 mm on each central side of the 4 parts - And then reassembled the parts, using strips of styrene sheet and introducing 1 half-round styrene 2 mm strip between each half-part - With this method, I've decreased the seat width by 2 mm - Then I've used styrene sheet plate, curved and cut at the right shape, to fabricate the back of the vertical part of the seat. - The rest is filing to round the corners, sealing etc. It's not yet finished, it remains a lot of work to do on it : - sealing, sanding, make the piping to match more to the real, etc. - and to fabricate the metal stuff which join and articulate the vertical and horizontal parts of the seat) - and of course, inflicting the same fated to the second seat Photos being better than a long explanation....: Is the result giving a faithfull view of the real ? Absolutely not, because there is seven central strips instead of six ! But I think I've already got a rather good result Stay tuned if you like
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