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CrazyCrank

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CrazyCrank last won the day on June 29

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    Male
  • Location
    France
  • Interests
    My grand-children, photograph, vintage cars

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  1. it's a lovely and "sexy" scale model car. 👍 I would like to owe a car that shows this stunning and majestic livery 😉 Superbly done, @Neddy, congrats 👏
  2. Good evening, gentlemen Not a big progress today, as my workbench is invaded by a lot of bunches of all this BMW 507 3D printed parts that some French modelers asked me to supply them 😎 Nevertheless, even if I've not been able to finish the work on my door's interior, I've found time to 3D draw and 3D print the first element of the door locking system I took inspiration of this photo: And drew this: ` Once printed, on the left the right locker, and on the right, the left one
  3. Morning chaps: A bit of progress on the doors: I've added the chrome-plated rod that runs between the top black panel and the padded white panel of the door's interior, taking inspiration of this photo: I used a 0.25 mm Nickel-Chrome wire, 38.5 mm long for each door: I've also added the chrome-plated rod situated on the top of the door, just on the exterior edge of the window slot, as you can see on this photo: I used a thin strip of Hasegawa mirror finish: At last, I added the handles: Is the job finished on the doors ?.....Nope ! it remains to add: - the screws that retain the upholstery panel - the locker system (fake) And of course the exterior handle See you later 😉
  4. Thank a lot @HOUSTON for this huge compliment The annoying thing about receiving praise is that you're bound to keep on earning it! 🙄😂
  5. Evening (morning ?) gentlemen A few days ago, I painted the white parts of the seats and of the door's interiors, using a mix of AK Pure White (60%) and AK White grey (40%). One dried, I had sprayed over the parts a layer of Mr COLOR semi-Gloss varnish. Tonight, I've masked the white part of the door's interior and of the seats and have sprayed 2 layers of AK Nato Black And then , again a layer of Mr COLOR semi-Gloss clear. But it looked too shiny for leather, so, once just dried, I've sprayed over the semi-gloss clear a layer of Tamiya matt clear, and...miracle ! I've got a mix between semi-gloss and matt, with as well a slight grainy aspect, convincingly reminiscent of the texture and colour of leather. A lot of work still to be done on those elements to finish them. Stay tuned for new episode 😉
  6. Gorgeous build, breathtaking paint result, lovely model ....CONGRATS 👍
  7. Yes Nick, I am crazy.....remember my nickname Thanks for the nicest way said comment 😂 And yes, I'm using this headband optovisor, but the magnification factor isn't sufficient for the tasks I want to perform, and this headband is just c..p, like the 3 or 4 others I've used before. Everything loosens up quickly, the headband comes crashing down on your nose at the critical moment... and you sabotage your work!
  8. Good morning everybody The keyring is now attached to the ignition key 😎 It took a long time because I had to start over several times. Either I broke the eyelet on the key, or the eyelet on the keyring, during the delicate operation of creating a chain between the two with 0.15 mm wire. As a result, each time I had to either repaint a key, or - and this took longer - repaint and varnish a keyring! The total length is about 7 mm: 2.2 mm for the keyring, 3.5 fr the ignition key and the rain for the chain My eyes won't be able to work on this 1:24 scale for much longer ! And it took its place on the dash: I've just started to paint the door's interior and the seats.....see you later 😉
  9. Evening chaps It's amazing how little things can take so long to get done 😮 I'm still working on the dashboard, and have had a closer look to my BMW key ring, the first I did with the tin cap of a good bottle of wine 😛 And , really, it is not very "sexy", nor very sharp....so, I wondered how I could do to make a nicer one, and I've been thinking about it for a very long time until the obvious solution finally came to me! A 3D drawn and printed part, a pretty disk with an eyelet , and on the disk, 4 sections of the same size, 4 "pie slices", that are slightly dug in the disk, and in which I could "pour" some blue and white paint, without overflowing too much. 3D drawings: The 3D printed parts The key ring painted silver plus the slices, 2 blue, 2 white 1 And then, several layers of Gauzy agent, to create a nice shine and give thickness. On this picture, the Gauzy agent hasn't yet dried and look a bit "milky". Once fully dried, it will be totally transparent (Initially, I used transparent nail UV resin to give the best shine and relief, a bit like a curved glass. It worked perfectly but the slightest manipulation of the UV cured part led to dulling the resin, so...) I've also printed some new ignition keys. It will remain to do the more delicate job: linking ignition key and key holder with a very thin metal wire to simulate the chain, without breaking the eyelets of the key holder nor/or the ignition key (My first key ring made with UV resin has been broken during this process) See you soon 😉
  10. Yes Ian, it could be opened , and in the future, when paleontologists and biologists will have best tools than now, they could find on the cigarette butts some 1:24 DNA replica 🤣 Thanks a lot for your funny comment
  11. Nope ! not so easy ! At the moment, I've added the superior knobs which heads are painted te same color than the bodywork. I cheated and used Hiroboy 1:24 toggle switches. They are metal made. I drilled two 0.4 mm holes at the right places on the dash and inserted the switches into them. Then, a little drop of white on the heads, and ....that's it. Maybe they are a little bit oversized if you look at them from profile view, but at the naked eye, it looks pretty nice. Ok, @nick, I suppose your eye could be unsatisfied by this solution, but for once, I'll settle for nothing more. In contrast, for the inferior levers which are chromed, I'll probably use your method, which sounds good 😎
  12. Thank you very much, @hendie for this huge comment. I do my best, and I'm lucky because on this forum I receive a lot of advises coming from experienced people I forgot to include in the previous post a picture of the handbrake handle ! It's been chromed and is now in place: I'm thinking about the heating command panel, under the radio, and I'm wondering if it would be possible to add the knobs. At this scale, it's no longer a challenge but a gamble ! But I can't get it out of my mind ....
  13. Evening guys The dash knobs an radio buttons have been placed on the dash. Th highlight them, they have been painted light ivory instead of Pearl white, as the body. We can see, on the closest photo, their chromed bezels, and the result is far better than on the first dash I made, using needles and Alu tube Sorry for the lot of dust particles I didn't remove before taking the pictures, my camera is definitely merciless 😡
  14. Evening gentlemen While my painted parts are curing, I've spent a few hours to 3D design the outdoor mirror of my BMW. Actually, the kit part is spoiled by molding lines, and, due to its littleness, is very difficult to clean. I broke 3 of the 4 I had 😡 One has been saved and I keep it as reference ! So, for safety, I 3D drawn a new one, and printed 24 samples: I took inspiration of those pictures: Obviously, I can't be extremely closed of the real thing, because at 1:24 scale, some sections of the part would be so thin that it would be impossible to print them correctly, and/or they would be extremely fragile ! So here is my interpretation : Far to be perfect, but at 1:24 scale, once printed, it'll look good. And the print result: I've also designed a new ashtray lid because the kit one shows 2 compartments where the real car as only one: The 3D print result, obviously, is not very impressive ! See you soon
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