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CrazyCrank last won the day on June 18 2021

CrazyCrank had the most liked content!


About CrazyCrank

  • Birthday 09/30/1958

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    My grand-children, photograph, vintage cars

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  1. Evening guys This is not the end of this build, but we are inexorably approaching it First, I've tried to install my two spare wheels in the trunk. Fortunately, only the left one can be placed, there's no room for the right one...I've written fortunately because, thanks to this issue, we can see, opening the trunk, one spare wheel, and also the fuel booster pump, the fuel tank and all the plumbing I made I've designed and 3D printed a bolt and its cup which serve to fix the spare wheel on its stand I've designed and 3D printed a part of the dashboard which is visible on this picture, a silver plate with 12 holes, placed just in the extension of the air intake fairing located on the left in front of the windscreen, which is used to ventilate the driver. I took inspiration from the following picture : The dimensions of this plate are 13.0 x 1.0 mm and 0.35 thick. Holes are 0.35 mm diameter. I've painted it the same color as for the bodywork, so ALCOA Aluminium and sprayed a gloss coat. It is now in place and enhance drastically the dashboard I've replaced the fixture I scratched yesterday (?) to lock the retaining bar of the bonnet, by a tiny strong magnet, which allow to lock and unlock this bar more easily. I've painted Ribber black the inflation valves's caps for 6 wheels I've added the opening handle for fuel hatch on the left headrest fairing, and the opening handle of the driver's door: It remains to do: - finish and install the windshield and its mirror - install if possible the part I 3D printed which connects the aperture of the bonnet and the air intake manifold - to glue another time the chromed lateral strips of the body, cause they unstuck (4 times !) - to.....hum ! that's all except taking some nice pictures for RFI section I think, folks To be continued, for a short time
  2. Thank you so much, Roger, for this huge compliment, not sure to deserve it, but most appreciated Thank you very much, @Flying Badger for your praise, much appreciated PS: You're right for photo-etched badge and star. By the way, I still had an MB Star in photo-etch, of the right size, from a set bought during my previous MB 300 SL builds, and I found it's too flat, so I decided not to use it and make my own
  3. Good afternoon gentlemen The end of this build is fast approaching I've managed to put the body on the chassis, not without some difficulties, and to glue it in right position with CA, one edge/corner at a time, allowing the glue to harden before glueing the next corner. And it's now strong. I've so be able to begin to implement the exterior details, slowly, but surely. So, the chromed MB star and inscription "300 SLR" have been carefully placed at the right place (comparing with my spare bodywork) and glued with diluted PVA glue. Beforehand, I bent them slightly to fit the shape of the trunk lid. Little touch-ups of Molotov Liquid chrome has been necessary to fix the little damages the pliers inflicted them. I took the opportunity to apply some Molotov Chrome on the letter "D" on the boot lid, on the places where it is not covered by the red decal . The method I used, 3D printing, to produce the emblems is probably not the best in terms of thickness and neatness, photo-etching would have been more appropriate, but it looks good at the naked eye: I've put the wheels on the chassis and glued the knock-off nuts on their axles. And I've also detailed the wheels, adding wheel balancing weights. It remains to paint black the inflation valves. As you can see, I gave up the idea of making and installing the wheel arches. It was technically possible and I had already started, but I realised that it would be even more difficult, if not impossible, to install the body on the chassis if I implemented them . The bonnet closes correctly (for once !) To be continued ....thanks for watching
  4. Thanks a lot John for these kind words Thanks for this suggestion @Flying Badger. They broke sometimes when I cut them off the support, but most oftenly after, when I handle them while cleaning. You tip will work when I cut them off the supports, but after is the real matter. Thanks for the compliment, Roger, very kind of you, and much appreciated : Thanks a lot, Ian, for this praise, ans YES, I'm proud. The engineering has been a really difficult thing, the planning wasn't so.
  5. Good evening guys Great new tonight ! The hinges system I imagined to get the trunk openable, lifting simultaneously the two fairings of the headrests, works perfectly. And it hasn't been too difficult to assemble it. I was afraid that the sections of piano wire that run across both sides of each fairing, trapping the hinges underneath and serving as their axis of rotation, could not be cut short enough not to protrude from each side of the fairing, which would have been rather ugly. Well no, I succeeded in this challenge too! Some rough pictures quickly taken to show you the result: Of course, making the trunk openable, with fairing/headrests modified to be closer of the truth, needed to accept doing compromises with their shapes, and the general shape of the car. Purists would say that there is a too big gap between the bottom of the headrests and the rear of the bodywork, that the trunk isn't flush with the body, that the real hinges were different, etc. etc.etc. They are absolutely right ! BUT I'M VERY HAPPY of what I've achieved to make See you soon for next episode
  6. Afternoon gentlemen I'm realizing that I forgot to explain you how I made the air intake grill frame: - The frame hasn't be glued on the grill, but fabricated in the aperture - And the grill has been put upon the frame, glued with some droplets of Micro Kristal Clear (transparent once dried) - The frame below the grill prevent it to drop through the aperture The surrounding ha been made with a square rod of styrene 0.6 mm x 0.6 mm, that I've bended progressively and carefully after having put it in very hot water. To get the right shape, I used my spare bonnet, in order not to damage the right one. Once in place, the surrounding has been glued from its underside with Tamiya extra thin cement. Once dried, I've drille 0.3 mm holes through this plastic rod, 3 on the rear and 3 on the front Then I've fabricated the vertical and horizontal bars with 0.3 mm steel rod sections: - The vertical ones are slightly longer than needed, and are inserted in the holes I drilled previously. The excessive length is used to bend them upward, following the bonnet curvature - The horizontal ones have been glued on the plastic surrounding from the inside (Yes, I cheated !) and keep straight Today, the bonnet has been placed on the bodywork, and its hinge trapped with the kit's part. The hinge works well. I'm just a bit disappointed because, due to the kit's engineering, the bonnet can't open as much as I expected (Much more however than on the photo above) Indeed the thickness of the hinge molded on the bonnet is a bit excessive and prevent the movement to go completely forward. And this can't be fixed, unfortunately. The decorative chromed lateral strips have been placed The front lights are finished Now, it remains the most difficult tasks: - Install and fix the headrests/trunk set hinges using the parts I fabricated several months ago. - Glue my new windshield glass on its frame. One day at a time is enough
  7. Evening guys Not a lot of progress today, because minor health issues. I felt better this evening and so went on enhancing the bonnet. First, I've painted the inner side black and sprayed a coat of flat clear on it. Then, I've scratched the system which retains the bonnet when It's opened: - I used 0.6 mm aluminium tube, 0.3 mm steel rod, and 0.3 mm aluminium plate. - Cut a 3 mm section of alu tube, that I flattened on 2 mm. - Drilled a 0.3 mm hole o the flattened end, and filed this end to reduce and round it` - inserted the 1 mm other end onto a section of 0.3 mm steel rod and glue with with CA glue - So was realized the retaining bar, that, of course, will be functional. - Then I cut off the alu plate a section of 0.8 mm wide and bout 6 mm long - I bended it in order to get a kind of "U" which horizontal width is about 0.8 mm - drilled a 0.3 mm hole on the two vertical sections of the "U", at about 0.6 mm of the horizontal leg of the U - Cut off the excess of the vertical sections o the U, and rounded with a file the end of the vertical legs - And I inserted a 0.3 mm rod through the 2 holes of this aluminum "U", and through the flattened end of the retaining bar that I placed previously between he 2 vertical legs, trapping it Next, I've scratched the locker for the retaining bar when the bonnet is close, using a thin strip of alu sheet, that I shaped with pliers At last, I've glued on the air intake aperture the grill I made 2 days ago. It remains to attach the bonnet onto the bodywork and then to paint and glue the 3D printed part I made yesterday. Thats all for now, folks
  8. Thank you Jörgen The air intake won't be visible through the screen, imho . Thanks a lot, Andy. But I'm no so brave you could imagine....I had and have still a spare windshield Thanks for this kind praise, Roger . Much appreciated
  9. Evening, gentlemen As I said two days ago, the final details fabrication id always time consuming. I've faced some repetitive paint issues with the Gravity chrome set and consequently I've had to redo the job several times, for the license plate and the decorative lateral strips. I cross my fingers, hoping the last attempt on those strips will come out nicely. But the job is done for the licence plate, which has received its decal and has been placed on the bodywork. The knock-off wheel nuts are ready as well, and are not too shiny , as I want it to be: The MB star emblem seems to be perfect after painting job. But let's see what will happen when I cut off the 3D print supports I've spent a lot of time to design and print a new part for the car, which will take place on the inner side of the bonnet, on the air intake aperture. I took inspiration of this photo: I had to draw it by guesswork, and had to do four 3D printing trials (90 minutes each time) before finding the right shape and size. And I still don't know if this part will allow to close correctly the bonnet because of the underlying engine that could come into conflict with it! Indeed, to know it, the part would have to be already glued in place under the bonnet, with the bonnet permanently installed with its hinge on the body. And so we go in circles ! I think it should fit, but I'm not absolutely sure. So I decided to glue this part only at the end of the assembly, and first temporarily, with Micro Cristal Klear (repositionable glue). If it doesn't work, we'll do without it, otherwise everything will be perfect! See you soon, hopefully
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