CrazyCrank

Morning guys Very busy in my elder son's house, so not a big progress since my last post. Moreover, the wet and too cold weather didn't allow to spray paint....until today afternoon ! So, hereunder is the result of the two first coats of GRAVITY COLORS Chamonix White over the chassis and the two doors. The primer on the doors was light grey, but on the chassis it was medium-dark grey, what explain its grayish look . When the third coat is sprayed on those parts, they will have the same color. Thus, please, wait a few days for final result... In day light, colors look very similar, and much more white and lighter That said, I think the original color, PEARL WHITE, is a bit lighter and whiter, but I've not found the perfect match on the Web markets, and it would have been risky to try to get the perfect match, mixing two colors, not knowing previously which exact amount of it I needed, because the mix should have been made only in a one time, to avoid differences of tint between the different body parts. See you later my friends

Wow, thank you so much for this huge praise , @Major_Error

Thanks Nick...I hope so Nope, coz have not yet plugged the spark plugs on the distributor, and moreover, I'm still thinking about the best way to get sparks at 1/24 scale

Morning everybody I didn't see the time go by, and I just finished to fix on the engine block the carburetors and their fuel supply ! It was no picnic ! I've also simulated the throttle linkage of the carbs with small pieces of 0.2 mm NiCr wire, shaped little by little. On the pictures below, the air filters are not glued on the carbs, just put on, to get an idea of the final result. They will be glued in place only when the engine is fixed on the chassis. It seems to be coming to life, doesn't it ? Stay connected for next steps

Precisely you could find the STL file of the wheels following This link to Grabcad

Evening my friends Not a big progress today, indeed I had, like Hercules, to clean the stables of Augias, by tidying my garage ! It was a merry mess, to speak rudely ! (sorry for the sensitive souls, if there's anyone here !) However, I stuck the fuel pump (filter ?) in place, and the distributor as well. And I began to work on the fuel lines of the carburetors, a challenging work at this scale. I took inspiration of this photo (and many similar others) I used: - 0.25 mm Nickel-Chrome wire to represent the fuel lines - some outer 0.5 / inner 0.3 mm diameters brass tube - 1 drill bit 0.3 mm - Soldering paste - And Superfluide CA glue (Loctite 420) - Short sections (2.5 mm) of thin Electrical black wire (0.5 mm diameter) Process: - cut off a short section of brass tube, about 0,75 mm (part 1) - Thread it over a 4 mm section of 0.25 NiCr wire ( part 2) - Drill a 0,3 mm hole perpendicularly on a 2 mm section of brass tube (part 3) - Thread in this hole the NiCr wire (part 2) and let the short section of brass tube which is threaded on it (part 1), slip until it touch the drilled brass tube (part 3) - Solder - Cut the excess NiCr wire which overcome of the drilled brass tube (part 3), sand and polish . - You have now a brass "T", in which is threaded 1 long section of NiCr wire - Unclog the holes of the drilled brass tube (part 3) - Glue with superfluid CA 2 long sections of NiCr wire in the holes(Parts 4 and 5) - You have now a brass T with 3 branches of NiCr wire - Cut 2 short sections of 0.5 mm black electrical wire, remove the cable core - Thread them over the 2 horizontal branches of the T (parts 4 and 5) And that's it ! It remains, obviously, to shape the NiCr wires correctly and to fix the piece you'll get between the fuel pump and the 2 carburetors. Stay connected for next step, not before the end of this week

As usual, Houston, I thank you warmfuly Thanks lot, Roger, much appreciated Thank you so much for this huge praise , Neddy I do my best, and, while my sight is slowly declining, I'm pleased to work in this microscopic world!

Evening gentlemen I've completed the fabrication of the air filters. You remember that they have a disk shape, 8.5 mm diameter for my replicas , and are on the real thing made of two plates, on top and bottom, which trap in between, the air filter itself. And the peripheral of the "disk" is made of a perforated grid. When I designed my air filters for 3D printing them, I've anticipated the fact I need to have a groove between the 2 plates, in order to place the perforated grid more easily (the groove acting as a rail to guide the grid strip) I trained this evening with a spare air filter, not painted. Theoretic Process: - Cut off a strip of fine mesh, just the right height, the groove one in fact, 1.0 mm, and the right length, so for a 8.5 mm diameter disk, a length of Pi x 8.5, so 26.7 mm - Glue it with very small amounts of superfluide CA ( I used Loctite 420) around the "air filter", in the groove. Making off : - I had so, first, to cut of a rough rectangle of mesh from my big roll, and, without any willing and by pure chance, I was extremely lucky because my rectangle was exactly 27.0 mm wide ! - Then, to get a regular strip of 1 mm width, I stuck long the edge of my mesh rectangle a strip of Tamiya masking tape 1.0 mm, as if I want to mask before painting. - Then, I stuck a large strip of masking tape along the first strip, the edges in "full contact". - At last, I removed the fine strip and I cut off a 1.00 mm strip of mesh, with sharp scissors, following the edge of the remaining strip. The final step was to glue the mesh strip in the groove, little by little, avoiding overflowing the glue outside the groove. And I succeeded After that, it remained to repeat the process with two painted air filters, only a matter of time and patience ! And....that's it I think they look really very similar and I'm pretty happy with the result . Stay connected for next step, fuel piping of the fuel pump and carburetors

Afternoon gentlemen Weather's too wet here today to allow spraying the pearl white top coat on the chassis and bodywork in good conditions.. However, I can show you the pictures I just took of these elements covered with the last coat of fine Gravity Color light primer: This last coat of primer must be slightly sanded with 6000 grit sponge before spraying the top coat Since my last post, I've also painted and clear coated the tiny peripheral parts of the engine and they are now ready to be improved with some tubing and wiring I have to let all the parts dry for 24 hours before any handling, because the clear coat has only just been sprayed. See you soon for next step

Afternoon guys Have been busy with my grand-daughter the last days, so not a big progress today. However, after 4 different 3D printing of the tiny parts I showed you previously, I'm at last happy with them ! I've primed all this microscopic world, and the details are very finely highlighted Some pictures: Ignition coil and fuel pump: Distributor: Carburetor, 3 interesting faces Air filter for carburetors: And hereunder is some metallic mesh I'll use to simulate the perforated grid of the air filters Stay connected and thanks for watching

What a beauty ! Absolutely perfect work on this model, and a real talent for photography

Thanks so much, @Ints30 ! I'm pleased you find any interest to this thread

Wow What a superlative compliment ! I'm not sure to deserve it, but in any case, thank you very much for this huge and beautiful praise

Evening mates The second print at 10 microns layers of the fuel pump came out very nicely..It was worth the 4 hours waiting ! The photo above does not justice to this part, which is in reality, even at the naked eye, very neat and accurate ! I've designed a new carburetor, taking inspiration of a new and great picture I found by coincidence ! Of course, my design isn't true. It's an interpretation, given the fact that I haven't any blueprint, and only 2 or 3 photos taken at almost the same angle. But it's still far better than the stuff supplied in the kit: a disk over a cube ! I've separated the carb and the disk-shaped air-filter, in order to be able, later on, to fabricate and install more easily the fuel lines and the throttle linkage i I'm currently printing a draft of these two parts at 25 microns layers, what will take 2 hours. If the test fit is OK, I'll print them at 10 microns. See you later, guys

Thank you very much, Roger, for this kind praise