Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

CT Modeller

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


CT Modeller last won the day on April 3

CT Modeller had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

3,628 Excellent

About CT Modeller

  • Rank
    Obsessed Member

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Haywards Heath, West Sussex

Recent Profile Visitors

2,414 profile views
  1. Love that comment - made me laugh out loud. Nicely built Liberator too!
  2. From Mach 2 standards to Moa standards is an amazing transformation. You remain in a class of your own when it comes to these rare civilian aeroplanes. I am currently building a Mach 2 Martin Seamaster and I totally agree with your summary of these kits. I started with moulding a new canopy and built the rest around it!
  3. That really looks the part. Excellent modelling. I have one of these in the stash plus decals for a KLM 63 and I’ve been trying to find a decent picture of the wing top surfaces to work out whether the central area was natural metal or coroguard / grey painted during this era. It’s very difficult to tell from photos. Can anyone help?
  4. 8 Hi Gary. Thanks for your comments. How I handled the main gear was to leave it loose in it’s location slot rather than fixing it. I put some scrap plastic on the top of the slot to prevent it from slipping out. It means you have to paint the leg before you put the fuselage halves together and then be very careful not to damage it during the rest of the build. The aircraft then stands on its nose and outrigger gears, with the main gear free to touch the ground.
  5. I meant that the kit doesn't include rudder pedals, not that the Puma doesn't have rudder pedals!
  6. Westland / Aerospatiale Puma HC.1 230 Sqn, RAF Germany, Gutersloh 1979 This was of course the old Airfix kit. I picked this kit up at a model show back in the 1990s and it had obviously been in someone’s stash for a while before that. I say that because age had made the plastic quite brittle. I hadn’t experienced that to such an extent before, but it manifested itself in various breakages during the build, the most significant being fractured rotor blades while attempting to introduce some droop. Thankfully some carefully applied superglue put things right. For its time this was a really competent kit. Airfix had obviously looked at the real thing. The canvas seats, cockpit levers (cyclic, collective and seat adjustment levers) – though no rudder pedals – all looked pretty good and the lightly rivetted surfaces were OK. There were quite a few negative points that had to be put right though. Firstly, the kit was produced at the end of the ‘moving parts’ era and Airfix had made the undercarriage retractable and the cabin doors moveable. This meant that the undercarriage oleos were moulded in the extended position, giving a silly look to the aircraft when stood on its wheels. So task number one was shortening the oleos – a very small and fiddly job which I think came out OK in the end. The way the kit is designed means that the undercarriage legs need to be fitted during the build and not at the end, so inevitably I broke one of the legs off! Thankyou Lord for superglue. Then those door runners, which were so oversize as to look ridiculous. This meant fixing the doors either open or closed. At this point I thought about the cabin windows. The kit windows were extremely thick and had shrinkage dimples so weren’t usable. I had intended to use Humbrol Clear Fix or white glue to add the windows at the end of the build but after I had fitted the canvas seats they were too close to the front windows to allow that. So I looked again at the kit windows, and sanded down their outer faces which removed the dimples and thinned them. A few coats of Klear made them usable, so I went with them. I added some scale size runners from plastic strip after the doors were fixed in place. The next issue was the rotor head, which appeared to sit much too high. My solution was to remove about 2mm from the top of the gearbox. The assembly of the pitch change arms was extremely difficult and I must admit I gave up in the end and added some plastic rod after the rest of the rotor head had dried. This left the antennas to sort out. The kit position for the VOR/ILS antennas on the rear fuselage is not correct for RAF machines and they needed moving forwards. They may be OK for the French version. An additional V/UHF comms antenna was added under the rear fuselage and the HF double wire antenna added on the port side using pins as masts and EZ Line. On to paint and decals. I airbrushed Xtracolour enamels for the Dark Green / Dark Sea Grey camo, but hand painted the black underside using Humbrol Satin Black just to avoid the awkward masking with the undercarriage in place. I sprayed the rotor blades using Xtracrylic Dark Green to give a different shade from the camo.It’s interesting to see how different the enamel and acrylic RAF Dark Greens are, when they should be the same! Blade undersides were black. I struggled to find where the yellow blade handling markings were on the blades. They are there on the underside but I could find no evidence of them being on the top sides of the blades. Finally the decals. I would recommend to anyone building a Puma to get hold of Modeldecal Set No.67 which has a really nice set of stencils including all those white markings on the underside, in addition to badges, codes and serials for 33 Sqn, 230 Sqn and OCU machines. Overall this was a more complex build than I had expected but I got there in the end. I prefer these early Pumas to the later configuration with those (in my opinion) ugly air intake filters.
  7. AV-8B Harrier II VMA-214 'Blacksheep', Yuma, Arizona, 1992 This is the old 1/48 Monogram kit built straight from the box except for decals, which were Microscale. This was unusual for me in two ways. Firstly I normally stick to 1/72, and secondly I would normally spend a long time re-scribing a kit that has raised panel lines. In this case I went for a quick build (is there ever such a thing?) as the kit only made its way from the attic because I needed the drop tanks from it to finish off my old UPC Skyray which I posted onto this site earlier. So it was lying around and I thought I might as well build it. I was very pleasantly surprised. Firstly to my eye it looks just right for an early AV-8B. The detail was all there in typical Monogram style and it went together very nicely without much filler. I kept wondering when I was building it whether I should have scribed in the panel lines but now its finished I'm glad I didn't as it looks fine. It's made me re consider re-scribing in future. Maybe I don't always have to do that! The old Superscale decals worked perfectly well, except that on the sheet I used there were no stencils except for the air intake warning so I had to search the spare decal stocks and found something that was roughly right from some F-18 sheets. I'm very tempted with more 1/48 Harriers now - a couple of those Kinetic Sea Harriers might be first on the list.
  8. That's brilliant. Love all those details, especially in the interior. I just checked my old log book and I flew in RS03 during April 1976 as a Flight Test Engineer at Westland. Your model is exactly as I remember it
  9. That looks really good. I’ve had that white sediment issue with Modeldecals a few times. My solution is to hold the decal in tweezers and rinse it in water to remove the white. The decals are fairly robust thankfully but it is a bit tedious to have to do that even with the smallest of stencils. I then put the decal on over fresh wet Klear and press it down as usual. I then put another coat of Klear on top to seal it into the surface. It usually eliminates slivering as well.
  10. I agree - just go and get yourself some proper Type D roundels
  11. That is just sensational. Especially when I read that you had masked and sprayed it all. Wow
  12. That’s a brilliant post. Made me laugh out loud. Thanks
  13. They are both finished in Xtracolour enamels over Tamiya grey primer with Humbrol Matt Cote over the top. Dark Green / Dark Sea Grey over Light Aircraft Grey for the early one and Dark Sea Grey over Dark Camouflage Grey for the later.
  14. I wasn't having a go at Modeldecals at all - like you I've got a stash full of them and I'm always thankful to Mike for starting off the aftermarket decals thing. It's just that all these years later it seems that kit decals have degraded over time whereas the old Modeldecals always seem usable, so where Modeldecals rely on basic markings from the kit you have to do a bit of searching for replacements. But to the decal manufacturers out there - please can we have a set of stencils / roundels / serials for early Jags!
  • Create New...