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Louis

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Louis last won the day on August 31 2012

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  1. Hello! An aluminum door. The outline is marked with a ballpoint pen (red ...) in an aluminum foil thanks to a metal template. Then I cut the outline and I sanded it. It remains to stick it. There it is just posed. The tail is picked up a bit: An aluminum scotch plate is glued around the passenger compartment. The scotch tape is sanded flat on a clean glass plate with 1000 sandpaper, then glued to the model. It is shaped with a toothpick and then cut with a new blade using a piece of dymo tape as a rule. I absolutely wanted to have the extra thickness with the rivet marks. It took me a long time to get there: The leather outline needs to be reworked a bit. The whole is covered with surfacing. I still have to sand it a little. I remade screws in relief. It's still better. Especially with the naked eye. A little paint. I want to obtain a very light gray aluminum almost without metallic reflection. Like my mom's aluminum saucepan. Those who are my age must have seen this at home small. No ?.. since I don't have white paint to mix with aluminum. from HK, I chose to paint in aluminum. and then varnish in math to break the gloss. Before aluminum. I have a little pre-shaded in black. The aluminum was slightly patinated with dark gray felt before varnishing. . The math varnish (HK) was not enough so I put in the varnish a little bit of light gray paint (like pearl gray). The effect is what I wanted. The actual color is more subtle than the photo shows, a little more metallic. Right, the cover before being varnished. . Regards !
  2. Hello! The engine is finally finished. It's very small but everything comes together without the need for adjustment. Fortunately... 75 pieces + 18 spark plug wires (not very useful after all). It is weathered with engine grease oil paint. It is less yellow in reality. The copper tubes are painted with Alclad paint, the bent part is weathered with a little dark gray ink (Faber Castell pen) and with dark blue and black pastels. All tapped with Prince Auguste brown ink to make it shine a little. I am happy with the result but from the front we do not see them. Regards
  3. Thank you! Hello! I remade the air intakes of the carburetor (well I think that's it). They are badly placed on the kit for my version. You have to climb them up a bit. At the end it should look like this: There are apparently several more or less elongated versions. We do not see well on vintage photos most of the time. I used Eduard's model. I made a copy of it with transparent tape and powder pencil lead. I pierced both ends with a 1.1mm cookie cutter for the big one, 0.7mm for the small one. Then cut between the two holes with a new blade and sand. The tools : Drilled and sanded: Then cut around as close as possible with the razor blade following the model. Rounding is done with a file. It is not very difficult to do but it is very small. An aluminum tube is made in a piece of aluminum tray. I found nothing else to do them during this period of confinement. The hardest part is not losing the coins. Cotton swab or a real aluminum tube would have been simpler I think. The tube seems to be "higher" in its rear part than in its front part. Perhaps so that the air enters more easily. Regards.
  4. Thank you! The missing slot in the hood is drilled and sanded with a file. It is missing either on the HD1 or the HD2. Please note it is not always centered. Its position depends on the model. The angle between the two pieces of scotch tape: 55 ° ... The slit may be a little thin yet? The rear part of the slots was glued, puttyed and sanded. [Clerget 9B / Z 130 / 110hp (Small Stuff): approx. 110 pieces ... Note if you mount these engines, take the time to observe them with a magnifying glass so as not to break the small parts which are molded on the cylinders for example. What I did not do, of course. I broke half of the small hooks which are at the top of the cylinders. There are two per cylinder, I often only have one. Fortunately this should not be seen. It remains to be checked whether, once fully assembled, it will fit under the hood. Regards.
  5. Hello, I preserve "modellers license" for later. Thank you Peck for the pictures. After many hesitations this is the goal: In red it will disappear. In green to engrave. In blue probably in aluminum tape. Plus rivets, nails etc. One of our colleagues suggests that the tank behind the pilot could have been removed to maintain the aircraft's center of gravity in the right place when it has been fitted with large floats. He made a scratch in 1/32 to see here: shock:: https: //forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php? / topic / 81122-hanriot-hd2-scratchbuild / I redid my back, longer. And I removed the protection that I had put to protect the opening ... the top melted, the front was deformed. It was just a piece of plastic and tamiya tape. I had put a Surfacer veil on the front of the fuselage. He may have attacked very fine plastic. After an evening of work, a night of reflection and full of Evergreen and tests. I try a transplant starting with the deepest and going up to the surface. Three layers of plastic. The hole above and the wall are consolidated from the inside with Super Glue. Re-cut hole and grafted part: To putty. Regards.
  6. If someone has a picture of the plane with a plaque ... Eduard puts one, WIndsock also in his plans. According to windsock, there is a US version which has no plate. Finally, this is what has been noted and drawn in the plans of the book ... Has French aviation used this version ??? I have so few photos ... Regards
  7. I think I made a mistake. Does anyone see my plate behind the cockpit? Regards.
  8. Hello, I still haven't finished chewing ... The plate that covers the back is being manufactured: The form is taken with transparent tape. The plate is cut from a plate of edible aluminum (connoisseurs will no doubt recognize a pie dish here). The aluminum is smoothed with the handle of a brush on a glass plate and sanded with 1000 paper so that there are no scratches or marks in it. The leather protection around the entrance of the passenger compartment has been sanded in the area in contact with the dorsal edge to avoid having to make a rounding in the aluminum (and because it is like that in real life also by chance). I will do it again later. Eduard seems to have been inspired by this plane to engrave the top of the fuselage (blue arrow). But for the moment I can't find any image with this small riveted plate which is perhaps only a contemporary reinforcement and that's good! ... because it will be easier. I'm going to drill the hole to fill up ... Regards
  9. Hello ! The floats are almost finished. I hesitate to redo the fuselage stop which is completely round on my kit while it is probably faceted ... Before cutting the back I took a loan with a pencil and tape and I made a back. On the back of the room I made grooves in the evergreen plastic with the back of a blade. Then we fold. Left 1st try, plastic too thin. Right, second try with 0.2mm. More rigid is better but at the first drop of glue grooves have melted and the glue has dispersed on the surface. 4th test (the third has disappeared on the workbench ...). As the folding does not allow it to keep its shape, I taped it on a conical tool handle and passed to boiling water to give it the right shape. It's better. The circular arc piece is glued to the front to give it its shape. I proceeded to amputation, leaving the front of L’arête to put a metal piece on it. The plastic part will be slid underneath. The transplant remains to be successful ... Seen from above we can see that the sides of the ridge (in contact with the fuselage) are rounded. I have not yet figured out how to make them straight. I tried to stick a trapezoid "cover" on the inside but it didn't hold. The ciano is not effective, and the other adhesives damage the room. finally I fixed two guides in dymo tape to serve as guides and support the sides of the piece above. The part therefore enters "forcefully" between the guides. Before placing it I filled it with epoxy glue so that it flows inside and sticks the piece to the fuselage. I also put some along the zone to stick not believing too much in my idea of "dripping". At the same time I hope that by hardening it maintains a little the shape of the part. Obviously I kept everything in place by hand for 15 minutes while praying. It almost worked ... The bonding was not done everywhere and I started to stick to the superglue. I have the right side to fix. ... and putty everything. Regards.
  10. I redo the floats in 0.5mm plastic. Those of Eduard are ugly, false and too long. On the photo I had already cut the front to try to recover them. And I'm not even showing you seen from above ... I had made two photos of HD2 floats: Regards
  11. Oops! Sorry, I did not see. It will take me to read better. Sorry that didn't work. Regards.
  12. Wouahhh !!! Here is a job as I like them !!! Details, good ideas. All this is very beautiful. You can try this for big rivets : By spraying several layers of surfacer and using a stencil pierced with holes. You can also make them on a piece of decals and put the decal afterwards. In the middle of the page: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234984323-figurine-finished-148-voisin-10ca2-modified-hi-tech-kit/page/2/ Regards.
  13. The wooden support is put in place after installing the cables. Two up, two down and one running along the support. Once everything is closed, you hardly see anything. It's dark there like in an oven ... And in the cockpit it's the same. That's all is stuck in the fuselage, more or less well. The copper pipes a little big. The little aluminum thing connected by a spring to the dashboard. It was necessary to lengthen on each side the air intake pipe of the carburetor which crosses the passenger compartment right through: The throttle that comes from the box is far too large and is a little near the dashboard. I redid the white dial and its big cable which is just below so that it looks like the pictures on the dashboard (I only know that of the planes saved at the Hendon museum). Also redo a few rods on the throttle side and under the dashboard as well as a raised floor to hide the misery. It's still just as dark ... except with the cell phone lamp directly in the hole (of the fuselage ...). I had redone the lifter, I applied myself but we do not see it at all. Same thing for the small oil tank behind the dashboard. The boards to put the feet I redone are more apart than the original and the spreader of the box was no longer large enough. If I summarize, the only parts visible and that it is possibly interesting to redo are the structure of the cabin and the cables, the gas handle (which I have not redone), the white dial and the copper pipes on the left side of the passenger compartment. For the rest it is not worth it. Okay ... well, I'm going to close the fuselage and start the engine. Regards!
  14. The internal structure is almost complete. I had the bad idea to stick the right part in the fuselage and to start my assembly from there. The square rods are 0.5mm x 0.5mm. Part of the engine needs to be done: I used this montage and the descriptions found on the net: http://www.master194.com/forum/viewtopic.php https://issuu.com/chestnuts/docs/clerget-blin_9b] https://www.aerovfr.com/2016/05/retroconception-pour-un-clerget- 9b https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k9810818g/f72.image.r=Le Clerget 9B?rk=107296;4] The two magnetos in black (a little too low). Two new tanks: Does anyone know where the big horizontal copper pipe goes under the spring? The spring seems to be connected to the throttle by rods. It remains to bring everything in.
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