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About Chuck1945

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  • Birthday 05/03/1945

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    Eastern Washington, USA

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  1. You might want edit that first sentence Mike, don’t you mean ‘only the first few...’ instead of ‘all but the first few...’
  2. Thanks. Actually it turned out to be easier than having to thread the part in. I had left the cross members out intentionally when building the kit and then after painting and applying decals, put the gear legs in place, then slid the cross members into place
  3. I faked it on the first one I built, but am confused assembling the main landing gear. I can’t tell from the assembly diagram if the strut on the main gear that goes length wise into the bay is supposed go under the cross member or feed through the sideways ‘V’ formed where the cross member attaches to the forward edge of the gear bay. The few photos I have found show the piece in question apparently fitting through what Arma has depicted as the sideways ‘V’. Kinda looking for confirmation before gluing the parts in place
  4. If you mask then as much as possible avoid spraying towards a mask edge, rather spray down and away from the edge. This avoids a paint ‘edge’ building up along the mask edges and also reduces the likelihood of paint creeping under the mask edge
  5. Basically, at least for model purposes, the A-5 and A-8 engines were identical. Fuselage and wing differences between the two were for reasons other than engine. If you are asking if the Brassin engine will fit the A-5 kit, no clue since the Eduard ones I have finished used the kit engine.
  6. Don’t see why not. I’ve brush painted some small when it wasn’t worth getting the airbrush out. For larger areas the retarder might help with an even coat, probably depends on your experience brush painting with other Tamiya paints
  7. From your list, Tamiya XF 81 is a good match. Don’t have Revell or Humbrol so no comment on those ( the last time I had Humbrol was almost 50 years ago using the Authentics(?) range)
  8. I tried using the 1/72 version of the camo pattern mask. Each piece is big enough that you really just have one go to get it in the correct spot because the size and shape results in it touching the model surface in several places and it becomes virtually impossible to move if you get it wrong. I ended up making my own masking using pieces of tape and a form of blu-tack. If you have something you can place between the precut mask pieces and model and to which the mask won’t adhere (wax paper?) you could perhaps slide it into place and then slide the protective sheet out from under...
  9. Chuck1945

    Airfix JU88

    Not sure if you would consider it just a detail anomaly or not but the real plane has a tapering oval fuselage cross section while that old kit has an essentially rectangular cross section with rounded corners
  10. The June SAM has a Color Conundrum, part 2 on the Day Fighter Scheme. In it Paul references his piece in the June 2018 issue presumably on 2 Group Blenheims operating in conjunction with Coastal Command in Chanel Stop operations and wearing TSS colors. Hopefully someone has this issue and can help me resolve a question I’ve wondered about. Since the Blenheim camouflage already included Dark Green, would that have been retained with the Dark Earth being replaced with EDSG or was the Dark Green also replaced with Dark Slate Grey. To me it would have made sense and simplified the process by leaving the Dark Green in place since it was still a green even if not the same as Dark Slate Grey. A pdf scan of of the article would wonderful but just an answer to my question would be quite helpful.
  11. Oops you are correct! At least they both are radial engines. As I read in a comic the other day “my forgetter is better than my rememberer”
  12. I too have several boxings of the AML and built one of them. An easier option would be welcome! I do have the HB quick build kit; that should definitely be an easier option. I don’t recall seeing anything particularly negative about HB’s G 50
  13. Assume you mean SEAC not CBI, since CBI was the US part of SEAC? Try Barracuda for decals http://barracudacals.com/proddetail.php?prod=BC48008 includes three SEAC Spitfire VIIIs
  14. Me too. The actual spraying requires little thinner so as much as possible I use the manufacturer’s thinner for airbrushing and clean everything with generic lacquer thinner. As a side note, Gunze’s Mr Color thinner also works quite well to smooth Tamiya putty and doesn’t attack the plastic as regular lacquer thinners might.
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