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About Chuck1945

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  • Birthday 05/03/1945

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    Eastern Washington, USA

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  1. Tamiya’s NATO Black is another ‘black’ that actually isn’t quite black. I use it for for almost all 1/72 scale painting where black is desired.
  2. My five came last week, the day before my Spitfires, haven’t seriously started building one (two Spitfires in progress as well) but have started cleaning parts and painting the first one. So far test fitting shows no hiccups.
  3. Wow, those drawings really helped. I think I finally understand how the harness was installed. The part going down behind the seat never made sense before. Thanks again Ray
  4. I’m using Tamiya Hull Red for the seat, I think it is a little too dark and brown, but I’m too lazy to make a custom mix
  5. This picture of the Kits-World 3D printed decal set for Spitfire and Hurricane harness has me confused. I don’t really understand the way they hook up, and this has me bewildered. I want to use this on the Airfix Spitfire Vc, but how... I’m confused. Thinking A is one part with either C or D1/D2 being the other part but no idea which is correct and if C or D goes over or under A. B I’m guessing is the part that goes back into the fuselage and does E enter into the discussion at all?
  6. FWIW, I measured the Tamiya and Airfix canopies, both width and length of what would be their sliding portion of the molded in closed position canopies at the bottom where it would fit on the sill Airfix: 8.9mm W x 7.75mm L Tamiya 7.55mm W x 7.45mm L
  7. Thanks, I probably would have missed the engine details
  8. Thanks for the input Jason. I didn’t know you had more books published till I saw the list. Have bombers and Tu-2 books on order now.
  9. If I don’t hear from H soon, I’ll try eBay. It isn’t like I will run out of kits to build anytime soon
  10. I’m not very patiently waiting for the email from H saying my pre order is here.
  11. I remembered the ICM had a reputation for being fiddly, my other concern was that perhaps it represented a post-war version. You all confirmed the over engineered nature of the kit (while it doesn’t cause nightmares, the memory of ICM’s approach to the I-16 kit is still an unpleasant memory). An internet search got to a couple of articles that make me think the Tu-2S (ICM’s version) was in fact a wartime development and would be appropriate as a WWII example. Now to decide if I want to deal with the kit... Thanks for the comments on kit choices. Chuck
  12. The question here about VVS books and the links to various books prompted me to realize I don’t have any kit for the Tu-2. Scalemates doesn’t show much, the most recent being an ICM Kit originally issued about 1997. Is this a WWII version, and if so, is it any good - my stash is too big and I’m too old to think about kits that are going to fight back during assembly.
  13. Colin, many thanks for the reminder about those pdf mask patterns. I had completely forgotten about those and fortunately was able to find them on my hard drive. I’m working on an early Spitfire I pictured in the Wing Leader book so will try them when at the camouflage painting stage. Years ago I had read an article about using them as a pattern to cut your own from newsprint, the idea being newsprint is quite thin and bendable and if dampened, will stick to a surface so wet the pieces and stick them on the model, no tape required. As I recall in my experiment, the paper didn’t adhere all that
  14. I have some and it works rather well for what it does. Perhaps the two major drawbacks are cost and it’s ability to return to its original shape - meaning it shouldn’t be put on a model tonight that will not be painted until morning. Bends and shapes you have molded into your pattern will slowly reshape into a blob. It isn’t a quick process but even waiting 30-45 minutes you can see the shape shifting. On the plus side I can make a more intricate pattern with it than I can easily do with blu-tak and it appears to absorb paint overspray after sitting for couple of hours. In the last 2-3 years
  15. Mixed thoughts. I tried an Eduard camouflage mask on a 1/72 and was frustrated. The masking sections were large enough that it was difficult to get one part in the exact position without at least part of it touching and sticking prematurely. I gave up and went back to blu-tak. If you are careful spraying, I haven’t had any need to fill in the open spaces between the ‘worms’. Subsequently I discovered that touching a wet finger tip on the sticky side of Eduard canopy masks just before application allows a little adjustment during the process. Don’t know if this works larger masks.
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