flyboy2610

"Hey, Bubba, hold my beer and watch this! This'll be great if it works! If it don't, we gonna be on the news!"

Bomb it with live turkeys.

I'm in! I think I'll build the '70 Torino Cobra as a practice run for the '70 Torino GT, the 1 past vehicle I wish I still had!😥

I was going to do a B-25 as a night fighter, but I also have in my stash a Moebius 1969 Ford F-100 Custom Cab short bed. The truck has a 240CI inline six as the kit engine, but I also have a '72 Sport Custom with a 302 V8 and some much better looking wheels. I'm thinking (which I shouldn't do) that I'll take the engine and subframe from the '72 and 'donate' it to the '69. I also have a pair of low back bucket seats which will go in it. Low back bucket seats were actually available as a factory option on the '67-'72 Ford F-trucks, I don't know if you knew that. The truck will be painted metallic black. I'm going for a teenager's Saturday night cruiser sort of look. I think I'll build the truck.

Nice Camaro! I like that color!

But the water's warmer there!

Welcome!

I found the needed decals at a train store in Omaha. Trying to put a 1/32" stripe on the ledge below the windows was like trying to round up a herd of rabbits! Not going to happen! So for that stripe I used some Tamiya masking tape and masked underneath as best I could and hand painted 😱 the stripe with an 18/0 brush and Vallejo Model Air aluminum. The top stripe is from the decal sheet. This is where things are right now: I drilled and tapped the holes for the trucks mounting screws. They are 2-56. I had to use 2 #2 flat washer to make enough space between the trucks and the underframe to allow the car to roll. On the right is my Kadee coupler height gauge. For this car I'm going to use Kadee #141 long underset whisker coupler. The Union Pacific name and number are from the N-scale Union Pacific steam locomotive decal sheet from MicroScale #60-63. The name seems to have gotten a bit out of kilter. I didn't notice that until the decals had dried. I tried straighten them using MicroSet and I tried using warm water, but they wouldn't budge. So they're staying where they are! I chose that number because it was the closest one on the sheet to my house number. An underset coupler has the shank below the centerline of the coupler head, effectively raising the height of the coupler. The 'whisker' designation refers to the small pieces of material protruding forward from the back of the coupler shank. These act as springs and keep the coupler centered in its mounting box. Of course, I don't HAVE any of that size! I have some coming in the mail, though. I need to get the couplers fitted, then I can glue the steps on and start attaching the body. Due to the bow in the car frame I'm going to have to attach the sides and ends one at a time. Not ideal, but one does what one must! While I'm waiting for the couplers I'll give the sides, ends, and roof some Vallejo satin varnish. I don't want a gloss shine on this car, but I don't want it flat, either. So satin it is!

Around here they want $350 to grind a small stump. I'll remove it myself.

That is an interesting locomotive! I've never seen one like that before.

I don't think I could get a tractor into my back yard! I have a Reese Towpower pintle hook https://www.reesetowpower.com/product/7024300_pintle-hook that goes into a frame mounted tow hitch. As I mentioned I plan to dig around the stump as much as possible and thoroughly saturate the ground with water before I pull it. Where people get into a lot of trouble is when the wrap the chain or tow strap around the ball of a standard tow hitch. That is just begging for disaster! Tow balls are not designed to be stressed like that. Doing so can snap the shank of the ball with spectacularly disastrous consequences! If you have a tri-ball mount https://www.reesetowpower.com/products/ball-mounts/specialty-ball-mounts you can insert it into the receiver with 1 ball on top and 1 on each side and loop the tow strap over the balls. It's also a very good idea to use a winch damper, which is basically a weighted blanket placed over the chain or tow strap. If the strap breaks the damper will drop to the ground and dramatically lessen the recoil of the strap. I've pulled things before. I'll be careful. I promise.

Welcome!

I believe I've seen them right next to the board stretchers.

Building that trailer was one of the best things I ever did! It has paid for itself many times over!

And I mean that literally, it's not a metaphor. The 'front' door of our house is actually on the east side. There has been a pretty decent sized yew bush (tree, more accurately) across from the door ever since we bought the house. When we get a decent snow storm the snow collects on the branches and they bend WAY over, rendering it impossible to go out the door. I've had to go out the back door with a snow shovel and beat the snow off the branches so they would spring back up and allow to use our own front door! 🌨️ Not no more! Before: After: Now I just need to deal with this: But I know Frankie can handle it! Probably take at least 2 loads, but I have faith in him! He's always done what ever I've asked him to! He a trooper! Especially since he has new lights! https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235149983-rewiring-a-trailer/#findComment-5142159 But I'll work on that tomorrow. My back's already a bit sore. I think for the stump I'll try to dig around it as best I can, the soak the hole with water until the ground is saturated. I'll hook the stump up to Snowball, my 2004 Chevy Trailblazer EXT, with a chain, put it in 4LO, and pull the stump out of the ground. But not today.