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Showing topics in WWI, Interwar, WWII, Cold War, Modern, Classic, Modern, Work in Progress - Aircraft, Resources, Real Aviation, Aviation Photography, Aviation Art, Flight Sims, Magazines & Books, Ready for Inspection - Aircraft, Aircraft Reviews, Kits, Aftermarket (updates/conversions), Decals and Reference material posted in the last 365 days.
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- Past hour
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Is it still possible to get the vac canopy? If yes then where? Thanks
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On no account should you dare include an 'Alan' in there.
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Rightio. Some recent snaps, some relevant, some botg so (at this stage at any rate). A few of the imnages show me playing about with the iPhone's 'square format' option. Hey kids, I've got a Rolleiflex/Hasselblad/etc. Well, I do have a Rolleiflex 'medium-format' TLR camera, as it turns out, but it is of course a film <gasp> camera (wassat?)... 1. Seafire F11 with new 'nut and bolt'. after filing, So far so good, except that it isn't, of course... Seafire F11 with new 'nut and bolt' after filing by Alex1N, on Flickr 2. Aft side of F11, new 'bolt' filed Aft side of F11, new 'bolt' filed by Alex1N, on Flickr 3. F11 with armour plate corner replacement: over-handling at some point knocked off the rather fragile corner. That'll be fun to add, won't it, kids? F11 with armour plate corner replacement by Alex1N, on Flickr Right. That's enough of the relevant 'contractual obligation' snaps; here's the interesting stuff: 4. New Tamiya paint stand. I was acquiring some Plastruct plastic tube for the Skyfarer's windscreen support frames (for around $6) at an almost-local railways modelling shop when I saw this (for $32) and couldn't resist it. It goes round and round like anything. Note the new inhabitants New Tamiya paint stand by Alex1N, on Flickr 5. As seen before (many times, no doubt) here on BM: Gunze Sangyo jar opener set; rear side of product card - complete with 'duck with mullet hairdo' (according to our daughter, who is used to interpreting such things (and can even read the card)... Gunze Sangyo jar opener set by Alex1N, on Flickr 6. Gunze Sangyo jar opener set; front side of the product card Gunze Sangyo jar opener set by Alex1N, on Flickr 7. Scottish shortbread (bit of a tautology there) as made by my daughter for the end of term 'food from around the world' party for one of her uni courses. I was even allowed a piece, and am trying to persuade her to make some more. I'm not really trying to emulate Mr Heath - it happened to be the next photo in sequence from the GSI-Creos Jar opener, and I thought that it looked nice Scottish shortbread by Alex1N, on Flickr Follow this link to my flickr account[i, and my Seafire flickr album[/i]... That feels a bit better, posting some actual snaps for a change. I have decided to acquire a drill set with an 0.2 mm bit in it, since extracting and replacing the new 'nut and bolt' is far too fraught wi' danger. It will take a while to get here, but that really makes no difference in the overall scheme of things save that it might actually speed things up (another <gasp>). I'm now up-to-date with such Seafire snaps as can be inflicted upon you all; I have a massive backlog of Skyfare snaps which was holding things up because I was letting it, by after realising the silliness therein, I decided to cut to the chase and fix up the Seafire thread. The Skyfarer thread can continue to wait upon my leisure. Cheers, Alex. <-- told me to get the drill bit set ; )
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Engine update, lost count of how many! According to this engine reference photo . . . There is a large tube running from the bottom of the engine case cover that curves from the front of the engine to the back of the engine. Trumpeter does not reference this part. I think, “No problem, I’ll just bend a section of wire to represent the tube.” Easy, right? Except the bottom of my engine case cover does not have a section that extends far enough for the pipe to attach. What to do know? Then I notice that on the top of the engine case cover, there is a slot that is missing a part. I look back through the instructions regarding the engine steps (1-3) to see if I have missed anything. Nope, all parts accounted for. So, I am now resolved to scratch parts for both the top and bottom of the engine case cover. But, before I do that, maybe there is a step or two for the engine later in the instructions. Lo and behold, in step 23, these 3 parts are added to the finished engine. The round circular thingy along with the more detailed larger part are attached to the top of the engine case cover, the other larger part is attached to the bottom of the engine case cover and will give enough length where I can attach my missing pipe. Why these parts wait until step 23 to be added to the engine is beyond me. Seems as if they could have easily been included in the early engine build steps 1-3. I can find no rhyme or reason for these parts to be left off until step 23. But, I am glad to not have to scratch them; or will I have to scratch them? Within seconds of cutting these parts off the sprue, I ping the bottom part off into never, never land. The next 30 minutes is spent trying to find this miniscule missing part, but eventually it is located. Probably could have built another part to use in only 10 minutes! Have you ever wondered how much of your life is wasted looking for missing model parts? Kinda staggers the imagination, huh? The bottom part has one of the sided drilled out to accept the tubing that will run to the back of the engine. I find a piece of insulated wire that will fit the bill nicely. It is bent into shape and the insulation is removed so the wire can be attached in the hole drilled in the bottom part. The two-piece top part is installed And the bottom part is installed as only a butt joint. The top and bottom parts are painted, along with the tubing. Then the tubing is placed where it should go, but is not attached to the bottom part as the joint needs to harden a bit more. I still have some more blending to do to make the newly added parts seem like they were painted along with the rest of the engine at the same time. Next up, the engine will be attached to the engine bulk head and I hate to say it, some scratch building of more pipes and tubing need to be run from the engine bulk head to the cockpit firewall. Until then, as always, all comments are welcome.
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That is an absolutely spectacular model, superb build, excellent paint finish, realistic weathering. Awe inspiring. Show stopper. Cheers, Troffa. Off to put his airbrush up for sale. :-)
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Here is the only photo I have of that fine little kit I built back in 2006. I was able to get into my old photo bucket account and find it... --John
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Bravo Ian. It's been wonderful to follow along with this build and I've taken away a lot of hints and tips for when I find one for myself. I was sceptical about the massive screw in the belly but, seeing the finished article, I totally get it - a lovely understated display. Congrats on a fantastic model!
- Today
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Hi Fido, Can't help with internal dimensions (since glued inside my Mudhen) but the external measurement of the Aires resin, where it butts up against the fuselage is 23.8mm.
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Lovely logo Ced Really stylish font. This really has given me am idea to maybe do 3 gliders on some kind of a mobile thingy. Remember on Blue Peter when they did the mobile with two coat hangers and tinsel? Around that size but nowhere near as dreadful. I'm interested to see how you hang it. There's a Mojo gremlin around at the moment Ced. It's up to all on BM to catch it and dispose of it in a micro wave oven . All best regards TonyT
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Commiserations on the airbrush - but a stunning Sycamore. Those reference shots in the cockpit are amazing; I am struggling to work out which lever is for which purpose [and thank the gods that I only flew helos of a much later design - especially in the engine department!]
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I had somehow missed this, but since I have the Heritage T8N conversion and same F6 in my stash, it's great to see it turning out so beautifully - and I have duly noted the assorted bits of advice. Proper job!
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Same on the Sea King. The LHS pilot can't unlock the tailwheel, either (unless he has unfeasibly long arms). Most helicopters - especially in the Wessex / Sea King era - weren't really designed for ground taxying; it never felt all that comfortable tiliting the disk forward on the ground, tbh. I always assumed that the single-seat brakes were largely aimed at the Grubber sitting in the cab while it was towed. The Lynx has no brakes at all; they are wheel locks - either on or off. That's why they always hover taxy. The wheels are there to allow the aircraft to swivel on deck - hence the odd angle of the rear wheels; they were only moved to fore-and-aft for ground handling. You could do a running landing (in the event of a single engine failure, for instance), and it worked fine even with the wheels toed-in, though there was a fair amount of accompanying smoke and stink. [Navy ones, that is; I assume the later wheeled AAC versions had some kind of brake-y thing.]
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It's been a while since I caught up, but I am delighted to see that the madness and superb modelling continue in equal measure. FWIW, I agree with @hendie re solder; removing extra is not hard, but getting a solid joint with too little is a route to frustration. Oh, and @The Spadgent and @CedB are right re wiper removal. It's a bit of an act of faith, and ten minutes in you'll be asking yourself WTF you have done and wondering how you'll get a replacement canopy... but persevere and it works a treat.
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Bob, I can't answer your question as regards the tyres. There are lots of photos easily found of XP-753 of the LTF, (which is why I haven't posted one of the many), It would appear to me that LIGHTNING AERO'S 83 was just in light-blue. I am basing my observation on the fact that FLT LT M L THOMPSON was only several inches above it, all in white and smaller and using it as reference. I saw no hint of a white outline when magnifying one of the images, including adjusting brightness, contrast, etc. Here is a link to lots of pics of XP-753. https://get.google.com/albumarchive/107645514498566597638/album/AF1QipM7JXNq4p4k9JOfFNp1ALDnhZBRsRDqLqxRTdgq
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What about Airfix? Logical
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The kit has been out a couple of months now. Mark
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That is looking superb. I've got a recent boxing of this kit & wonder what Hellers recent decals perform like, if I could get a result like that I'd be rapt. Steve.
- Yesterday
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Thanks both, appreciate it. Ian.
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Hello Dears Here I'm back The engine will be weathered, and I also worked on this one Have a very nice week end. Sincerely. Corsaircorp
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Hello Dears Glad to share that poppies are back in my garden, did'nt plant it. Grewin'up in between the stone for my would be wall ! Restart the camera comprtment for the PR XI Beside her is the engine for my F4U-4 Take care and have a very nice week end ! Sincerely. Corsaircorp
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Spitfires are undeniably beautiful aircraft but not really my thing but this build thread has got me hooked.
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OOB, Xtradecals
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Hello Dears, Here I'm back again, first modelling evening, I was like a kid in a toy store. Not very productive but funny. First, here's a surprise from mother nature Those are stones for my would be wall, and I get a poppy ! Very glad about it, they are back in my garden I open the cooling vent on the boom More to come soon. Sincerely. Corsaircorp
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Thanks for the kind words. One of the curiosities of this kit was that it came with a dipping sonar for the antisubmarine version, which you could wind in and out of its bay by twirling the main rotor. I liked this so much when I was a kid that I built it as a hybrid anti-submarine / Apollo recovery version, so that the astronaut in his recovery net was dangling improbably next to the sonar rig. What could go wrong with an arrangement like that? It was a bit of a wrench, this time, to modify the kit by blanking off the sonar bay at floor height.
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Magnificent!!!
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