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About warhawk

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  • Birthday 04/06/1989

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    PanĨevo, Serbia

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  1. IMHO, it is easier to address a seam not running in the place of a panel line, simply because it is easier to later re-scribe the panel in plastic than in putty. Having the seam run across existing panels (instead in their direction and position) reduces the putty areas that go under the blade (Zvezda did a similar thing on their Yak-3 wing-to-fuselage joint).
  2. Some nice RAF/RCAF style fonts available for download below: http://aircraft-in-focus.com/ath_aircraft_fonts/?fbclid=IwAR3t9zZ8uOk9rQkGrRNqddQvyTukoqOwz8opdU0t-r1IyHdwnBkh8y3eGFs Regards, Aleksandar
  3. Beautiful rendition of one of my favorite aircraft. Well done!
  4. Encore and Zlinek Tu-2s are re-pops of the ICM, the only difference being that Zlinek also includes a small photo-etched fret. I have the Zlinek Boxing, and the plastic is the same shade of dark olive green. To answer the original question, ICM/Zlinek/Encore undoubtedly is currently the most detailed one (especially the exterior panel and rivet surface finish - closest to true scale representation You will get). But, not many are seen actually built, given they are a bit on the short-run side. If You dislike a challenging-fitting kit, but don't mind non-existe
  5. Another one of those early models with flush gun ports, where You can't really tell if that's tape over them or something else...
  6. Thanks, not yet complete. I might add the Kaufmann starter and the aerials later.
  7. I did, here's the link to the chart. Link to the discussion topic. Green fields represent 'existing' Black ones are 'Definitely impossible' Regards, Aleksandar
  8. My standard process is following: Paint the tire in tire black or any other very dark grey. Put a toothpick in the axle hole, then spin it slowly and spray a slightly lighter gray perpendicular to the thread surface (if You keep the airbrush perfectly perpendicular, this leaves the portion next to the wheel-hub in a darker grey with a soft edge), Protect it with lacquer Add washes, pigments and/or other effects. Regards, Aleksandar
  9. No, I sold mine un-started. The model pics above are from the internet, taken just for illustration purposes.
  10. I agree, they only cost that much because it is still the only 72nd plastic kit of this airplane, and there are still a few people who REALLY want a G.I in their collection. once the new MikroMir tool hits the shelves, no matter how good or bad it is; these MPM prices will be, at least, cut in half (as happened to the AvUsk/Xotic Do22s at E-bay). I bought my MPM from a friend at a retail price, and sold it for the same when I decided to wait for a better kit.
  11. Excellent work so far! I completely missed the fuselage booms being too short. I'm afraid that this width 'error' continues beyond the nose - the top fuselage (from windscreen to the beginning of the 'sting') is also too wide. However, Your solution is indeed the quickest one to enhance the look of the central boom, since I have no idea how to make the rest narrower (without ruining the windows or completely making a new boom from scratch)... Please take a look at this photo: source: modelbrouwers.nl Now take a look
  12. Unfortunately, it's pretty far off... Please take a look at this excellent review HERE Two main problems: Central pod sits a bit too low on the wing, while the fuselage booms are too high. When assembled, they line up at the bottom, and they shouldn't... The central pod was designed to be higher in order to prevent damage on forced landings. While accurate in length, height and width, the central pod is too squarish in section. I believe these two problems to be too much to correct, as they require modifying almost 80% of the kit. On a minor not
  13. Beautiful news! One of those aircraft badly needed as decent model in 1/72nd!
  14. Just saw this thread. The Monografie Lotnicze publication has plans with rivets depicted. If You do not have it, drop me Your e-mail in the PM, and I'll send You a scan of the drawings. Regards, Aleksandar
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