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About foeth

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  • Birthday 10/10/1975

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    Wageningen, Netherlands

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  1. When you have a single-lift point the center of gravity of the hoisted object is effectively moved to the top of the crane, plus the load/cable may act as a pendulum. With the jib that point is moved downwards and the entire operation may become much more stable? Just thinking out loud, but if I look at that Walrus and space they had to maneuver I can image what would happen if a very high point of hoisting meets a strong gust of wind? An extension is not really needed because you can manage that by tilting the main crane a bit?
  2. https://www.theonion.com/factual-error-found-on-internet-1819566445
  3. I traced down the author of this image who said that a) "but, but... this was just a doodle" and b) "I had no idea it was used as a reference".
  4. But I do appreciate the ocean doing its best trying to match the colours of each ship and changing accordingly.
  5. Great work on my favourite ship!
  6. Then leave it on As far as I can tell they used the original builders plans and minor details of the actual ship were missed (director, ships boats). Nothing really important as the actual kit looks really good. (And then I read about two masts so perhaps I missed something too )
  7. Incidentally, there was no pompom director fitted in the aft superstructure...
  8. The fwd breakwater and anchor arrangement after one pass of shadows, sediment deposits & salt streaking followed by highlighting. This will be by far the dirtiest part of the ship and the only part with sediment (Humbrol 62 Leather). I copied using H148 Radome Tan for salt streaks/deposits; this is a yellowy tone but dries up as a very natural whitish filter. "Some" correction work is to follow on the highlights (the angled base on the skylights and top of the capstans) and the bollards are a bit overdone. The shadows and highlights of the fwd breakwater near the deck was particularly challenging... Some salt deposits on the deck appears a bit flaky too, so perhaps add more, restore deck lines afterwards... This was fun to do with mood swings from " this is actually really easy" to "that didn't turn out as I want it at all" and back.
  9. Three washes of van Dyk brown followed. To make the wash I used Winsor & Newton's Sansodor that dries very slowly, allowing for some touching up and clearing excess wash from the deck with a wet brush when the wash is starting to set. There's always some discussion if individual planks can be seen and the answer is clearly: it depends. The contrast is perhaps more pronounced than I'd like but I'm happy with the results.
  10. 3D printing might also work Nasty parts to build with a lot of failures with my approach at milling!
  11. Base layer of the foredeck is done. The deck edge details (awning stanchion footplates and a few cleats) were touched up in the base colour and bollards and steam winch position in black. The colour of the chains is typically hull colour and one shot from 1940 shots the starboard chain to be a bit lighter, so I copied that, in AP507C. Yes, colourcoats!
  12. Thanks! The decks were made from Evergreen V-grooved styrene. The margin planks were first puttied; the plank ends were then added using a range of small chisels and scribers. The entire journey can be found here: http://ontheslipway.com/?p=3419
  13. Area between breakwaters painted in. Last part behind the 2nd breakwater only needs a pass with H72+white, rest added... The strange effect on the base coat after the tape was removed is no longer visible.
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