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nearsightedjohn's Achievements

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  1. Hi Jerome, I think I agree with you on the white, that ‘88 box art car looks really good. I also like that two-tone dark green and champagne scheme that Toyota offered in ‘86 but I don’t believe it came on the later supercharged models. I have an older Fujimi MR2 kit I may do in the two-tone.
  2. New tooled Hasegawa MR2 (AW11) first gen w/ supercharger just arrived from HLJ. I forgot I pre-ordered this many months ago. I hoped that it wasn’t a re-box of the old Fujimi and it’s not - all new tooling and looks really good. Unfortunately the postage exceeded the price of this kit by a few dollars - I did not want to take a chance and have this kit end up spending a year or two sitting in a shipping container. I owned a new red ‘86 MR2 normally aspirated back in my bachelor days, what a wonderfully good handling fun car (although slow by today’s standards but quick enough back then). What color should I paint this one (not red!)?
  3. Thanks guys! Yes, the resin carbs are from Fireball (Chief Joseph). I’m addicted to them!
  4. Thank you Keith! My wife and I are looking forward to spoiling our new grand daughter and then passing her back to mom & dad for the parenting drudgery part !
  5. These are three 1/25 super stock drag cars that I built as a part of my ambitious "build five boogie" WIP along with the Impala that I just posted and an Ebbro 1/20 Lotus 33 that I posted earlier this month. Nothing special here, just my effort to complete a total of twenty 1/25 scale sixties super stock drag cars in 2021....what can I say....an example I guess of weird things some of us do during these never-ending stay at home pandemic days of our retirement years....I'll try to post a shot of all twenty cars if anyone's interested. Cheers, John AMT '62 Chevy Bel Air - "Northwind" A/S: AMT/ Round 2 (Lindberg) '64 Dodge 330 - Dick Landy's SS/A 426 Hemi (before he altered the wheel base): Moebius '65 Comet A/FX - Dyno Don's Comet Cyclone with the Ford 427 SOHC:
  6. This is a wonderful kit that I included in my "build five boogie" WIP postings. I used Scale Finishes base paint for the original factory colors of "Suntan Copper" and "Fawn Beige". I built this one pretty much OOB except for some plug wires. The window frames and metal trim that were not kit provided pre-chromed were all masked and airbrushed using Alclad Chrome over black enamel (no BMF). This kit allows the trunk to be opened but unfortunately mine is bonded shut due to a slight amount of epoxy that seeped out when I bonded the rear light chrome pieces to the body. This kit has one of the best interiors IMO of any 1/25 car kit, it's an absolute jewel to paint and assemble. I highly recommend this kit if you can find one.
  7. I'm back and pretty much done with the remaining four 1/25 kits despite a multitude of distractions during the last few weeks (a case of bronchitis, the birth of our first grandchild last week, family & friends visiting and, of course, Xmas). Here's a shot of all five together: I'll try to post some pics of these last four in RFI soon. My conclusion: Five is too many for me to build at one time! Too many boxes on my bench! Too many mix-ups of radiator hoses! More lost parts than I can handle! My knees are still recovering from all that time I spent on my cold garage floor checking all the corners with my cell phone flashlight ap! It was kind of fun and glad I was able to complete this build but next time no more than two or three for me! Cheers, John
  8. Despite family and health distractions, I continue to make slow progress on my assembly line. All four chassis are completed and the engines installed: Started prepping the front and rear lights to the grills/ bumpers: And started one of the scariest steps of car model builds, bonding the windows to the bodies while avoiding getting the clear cement on the remaining visible portion of each window: Hope to have these four cars nearly assembled and ready for decals by the next report. Thanks for watching!
  9. The four 1/25 engines are nearly completed including addition of plug wires, fuel lines and carb linkage on three of them: I also airbrushed the Alclad chrome over all the masked trim and window frames on the four bodies. Here are the results after removing the masking, not bad!: The masking was left on for about a week so I was really pleased and relieved to see no crazing or other reaction on the clear coat lacquer from the green Frog tape. Most modelers here and other forums swear by Tamiya tape but I have had it attack both fully hardened Tamiya gloss lacquers/ clear coat as well as gloss acrylics and other brands of gloss model paint. Never have a problem with the green Frog tape.
  10. Gorgeous model!, Paint -interior details -wheels…everything looks just perfect. Other than kitbashing a resin body with an injection molded kit, I’ve never been brave enough to attempt a resin kit but your build is making me reconsider. And this USCP kit is a little more affordable than the 1/24 MFH kits. Would love to have one of these to park next to my Fujimi 356. One question on the seat belts: we’re the buckles supplied with the kit? It looks to me like there are two “males” on each set of belts and no “female” receptacles.
  11. Still waiting for my Alclad Chrome order to arrive to spray my window frames and trim so I continue to whittle away on the interiors, chassis and engines. Finished the '60 Impala and '65 Comet interiors: Masked and sprayed the underside of the four hoods with Tamiya X-18 semi-gloss black: Attempted to hand-paint the molded-in wiring on the '60 Impala and '64 Dodge: I generally do this using a fine brush and Tamiya acrylic paint over the lacquer clear coated engine bay panels and scrap the excess paint away using a chiseled toothpick - let me know if there's a clever way too detail these features short of grinding off the molded-in cables/ wires and installing actual wire. Initial work on detailing the four engines: That's all for now!
  12. Build progress slowed down this last week after coming down with a case of bronchitis last weekend, finally feeling better so I'm back on the bench. Catching a cold in these COVID days is unfortunately a big deal, I tested negative after three tests so I get to stay in the house for now! Got the interiors for the Dodge and Bel Air pretty much assembled: I then spent several bench sessions masking off all of the window and trim features on all four 1/25 bodies in preparation for airbrushing Alclad Chrome, photos shown the Impala masking are shown below: Here are all four bodies and the Comet windows (with frames molded in) completely masked: Here they are after airbrushing Modelmaster gloss black enamel over the exposed frame and metal details: I usually let the black enamel dry/ cure for a good 2 - 4 days before spraying the Alclad so I hope to make progress on the engines and chassis assemblies for these four cars in the next report. Thanks for reading!
  13. On my four 1/25 builds, completed the following: I lost one of the four brake drum/ disc thingies and had to fabricate a replacement using Evergreen styrene sheet and tubing: I've started assembly of, from right to left, the Comet 427 SOHC, the Dodge 426 Hemi and the Chevy 409 including epoxy bonding of the resin carbs onto the intake manifolds: These simple and fun old 1/25 kits are doing wonders for my Ebbro-induced PTSD!
  14. Here are some photos of a far from perfect build I just completed of the new Ebbro Lotus 33 1/20 kit. My WIP with observations, mistakes and suggestions is documented under the "Build Five Boogie" postings in vehicle WIP's. Of the four Ebbro 1/20 F1 kits that I've built to date, this one gave me the most problems. I love the subject and the molded parts, decals and extras are beautiful but, boy-o-boy, what a struggle to get things to fit and align. If you build this one, I hope it goes smoother than my effort did! As they say, "results may vary"! Cheers, John
  15. I decided to dive-in and attempt to complete the Lotus 33 build before resorting to the hammer (applied to the model or more appropriately to the side of my cranium). I'll post finished pics under RFI (I think my photos make this finished model look better than it actually came out). I give Ebbro and myself both a C-/D+ grade on this build. Here’s a summary of the issues I encountered near the end of the build: Body shell problems: The fit of the front cowling(part A39) and rear cowling(A?) to each other and to the chassis assembly is a mess. The small molded bosses on the underside of both cowlings are incredibly weak and do not align with the mating holes in the chassis (B2) or between the front and rear cowlings. I tried extending these bosses with 1 mm brass rod, it helped somewhat but I still had to open up the mating holes and it’s still not right. Really frustrating. I also had to remove material from the small square opening on the engine cover as well as a few other areas on the underside of both covers. There just seems to be a multitude of interference points. Windscreen bonding issue: The windscreen (F2) conforms really close to contours on the front cowling (A39) adjacent to the main bonding contact surface such that if you bond them together with clear plastic non-crazing cement like Testor’s “Clear Parts Cement and Window Maker” or Tamiya Extra Thin Cement, it will wick up on both sides resulting in an “unfixable” disaster: I initially used the Testor’s cement but the cured bond is really exposed and looked terrible with poor adhesion. I separated the parts and scraped off the adhesive and green paint to try to bond the two by wicking in a very micro application of Tamiya extra thin cement which created a much stronger more secure bond but still resulted in this nasty excess wicking problem at the cowling contours. My recommendation: bond the windshield to the body only at the rear end of the windscreen to the rear of the upper front cowling and let the remainder of the windscreen just float on the body. Or don’t even bond the windscreen? Exhaust issues: Per a previous post, the alignment of the exhaust headers (A1, A2, A6, A7, A9, A10, A20 and A21) and the chromed exhaust support brace with the two loops (E6) and the two machined aluminum exhaust pipes is a real problem. When I assembled everything per the instructions and test installed the two pipes, they ended up at weird unsightly angles as shown in my previous posting. I tried re-aligning the exhaust header bundles by blunt force bending and softening the header to engine bond joints with solvent but nothing worked. I ended up breaking apart the exhaust support loop part and splicing in a short styrene rod extender to finesse the geometry to at least reduce the mis-alignment: Recommendation: if you build this kit, don’t pre-bond the exhaust headers to the engine block. Bond the engine assembly without the headers to the chassis + the support E6, pre-bond each aluminum extension pipe to each header assembly, feed the pipes thru the loops on the sport and then, lastly, bond the headers to the block with the pipes aligned. The header "plates" may not be perfectly aligned to the bottom of each head on the engine but this area is nearly invisible on the finished model whereas the two exhaust pipes are very visible and look terrible unless they are somewhat aligned. Installation of the roll bar to chassis: if you follow the instructions and pre-install part D1 to the bulkhead (B21) at the front of the engine block assembly beforehand, the roll bar (E3) will not fit onto the chassis. I also had to fracture and reconfigure the left hose coming off of part D1 to reinstall it to the front of the engine block after installing the roll bar. Hopefully anyone else out there who attempts this one will be better skilled and benefit from the mistakes I made and disclosed in this WIP. I applaud Ebbro for kitting this wonderful subject but I just wish they could perform more debugging and fine-tuning of their molds before releasing it to market. I also love the decals and the machined aluminum velocity stacks and exhaust extension pipes and the small sheet of PE are really nice enhancements to include with the kit. I have a Tamiya Lotus 25 in the stash and hope it will assemble with less issues than this Lotus 33.
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