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nearsightedjohn

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About nearsightedjohn

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  1. Here’s my latest car builds, the 1/25 AMT “Double Dragster” Kit built from the 2010 tin box re-release. I recall my older brother building this original AMT release in the late ‘50’s/ early ‘60’s (before my glue-sniffing days started); anyone know when this kit was originally tooled/ released? The parts required extensive re-work/ clean-up to make everything fit which lead to the removal of all chrome plating and Alclad application. Other than re-configuring the shifter location on the Fiat altered from the footwell to the driver’s right and plug wires, fuel lines and alternative decals, both cars were built OOB. I grew up close to Lion’s Drag Strip in Long Beach, CA and recall seeing drag cars similar to these two during an early visit there. I love these early years when the participants all had day jobs and the cars were mostly home-built in nearby garages and backyards.
  2. Hi Martin, Fabulous execution of this Hasegawa kit of the original super car desire of my childhood! Love that green. I threw in the towel on foil when I first attempted it but am thinking of giving it another try based on your build. I suspect you produce a super high finish on the window frames and trim before applying the foil (much like your paint finish). Most foil Insee on auto builds looks too rough IMO. Your photography is the best of any auto scale model forum posting I’ve ever seen! Bravo all around!!! John
  3. This is my version of AMT’s “Lawman” 1/25 Plymouth Belvedere 426 Max Wedge super stock drag car. Other than after market carbs, velocity stacks, distributor and wiring/ fuel lines, it’s OOB. I used Scale Finishes “Striker Orange” and Zero Brilliant White base paints and am quite happy how the metallic orange matches/ complements the “LAWMAN” kit decals. This one was so much fun I think I’ll build the AMT “Color Me Gone” Dodge to display next to my “Lawman”.
  4. Really nice job Mark on truly horrible kit. Someday hopefully Revell AG or one of their competitors will re-tool a 1/24-1/25 roadster and/ or coupe series 1, I think they’d sell like hot cakes. I built a red one of these for my wife about five years and managed to loose it during our last move. It was the only model build she has ever requested from me and every time she brings up the need for me to build a replacement, I quickly change the subject....
  5. Hi Martin, Yes, the 002 kit included Jackie Stewart’s wire form mirror supports as well as the Cevert’s molded plastic supports. I believe the pins on these wheel spindles fracture easily because of sharp fillets at the base of both pins (“stress concentrations”). Tamiya is good at incorporating microscopic fillets in areas like this to prevent these types of failures. Ebbro could easily fix this problem by stoning or EDM burning off these sharp transitions in the mold cavities (current mold cavity is “metal safe” and fix requires removing metal from the mold which is an easy fix). A .002” - .005” radius would probably fix the problem.
  6. Nice job Martin on your 003! I recently completed Ebbro’s 002 and agree with you that these kits are significantly “more fiddly” than Tamiya. I had a bear of a time on the front steering/ suspension assembly, fracturing pins on one of the wheel spindles which required reconstructive surgery using brass pins... another modeling challenge learning experience! Here are a few images of my completed Jackie Stewart 002 Tyrrell with the “sports car” front end.
  7. Finally completed this build - photos posted in RFI forum. Thank you all for the kind words and comments, John
  8. Here's a few snaps of my Zvezda Pe-2 1/48 that I posted a few entries in the WIP forum. The antenna post extending from the canopy broke I believe when I put too much tension in the EZ line during bonding and a few days later a temperature drop (AC on in my house) caused the EZ line to shrink - has anyone else ever encountered this? Used some of the Eduard PE AM, paints were all Tamiya acrylics, Ammo panel line wash, kit decals (a #$%&!). The soviet blue underside way too green - sorry! In general a fun build - I especially like the exposed engine on one side. Enjoy, John
  9. Some progress today on painting: - instructions call out for Humbrol paints but I prefer Tamiya acrylics so I went with best guess - XF-63 for tank grey, XF-52 for tan, XF-17 for dark green and XF-23 for the aircraft blue underside. I suspect XF-23 is greener than the correct soviet Smurff blue but I like the look - similar to Luftwaffe underside (personal taste over accuracy I always say…) - This is my first attempt using blue tack masking for soft camo edges - I think I made my rolled sausages a little too big resulting in very foggy edges. I used Loctite brand blue tack which seems to stick and release nicely from the Tamiya acrylic and no excessive oil residue - some witness areas were left on the dark green but this actually gives it a little weathered look which I like. After removing the blue tack, had to go back and do some touch-up in spots. The resulting ball of used blue tack with embedded paint, tape and newspaper bits looks pretty grimy - is it worth trying to use this again? Maybe it gets better with re-use - please let me know your experiences if you re-use this stuff. - After an overnight cure on the acrylic, I'll give everything a coat of Future to prep for the decals (these Zvezda decals are challenging I've heard - hopefully they will survive and I won't have to research/ order/ wait for AM decals). Far from perfect but I'm having model airplane fun which is the whole point, right? enjoy, John
  10. Here's some WIP shots of my Pe-2 I started a few days ago. This is my first Zvezda kit and in general I'm very impressed, The molding quality is incredible - panel lines and surface detail so fine, I worry about going too thick on the paint and loosing it all. Kit engineering is so-so - very fiddly in some areas - reminds me of a Great Wall kit I built a while back (P-61). I would definitely recommend dry-fitting frequently while building. I ordered the Eduards internal PE set and have used the seat belts, instrument panels and inner panels for the landing gear wells and bomb bay. Unfortunately, clearances are so tight, much trimming of the PE edges are necessary to get nacelles and fuselage halves to fit. Parts fits are like WNW kits (no clearance for paint!!). Some of the side window glazings are also a little hazy so Future may be in order. I like this aircraft a lot - I think of it as a Soviet JU-88 or Mosquito. Despite challenges, build has been fun. I'll try to send an additional build update and RFI pics soon. Please pass on any questions if you have one of these in your stash with plans to build soon or comments/ courteous critiques. enjoy, John
  11. Hi Orion So sorry for my typo on the Russian photoetch ladder website - I omitten the 's'- try modelsua.com. http://modelsua.com/aircraft-ladder-1-72-DANmodels-72501.html Good luck, John
  12. Thank you all for the very kind words & encouragement. The NMF was Alclad II polished aluminum. I've had best results spraying the Alclad over a base of ModelMaster gloss black enamel thinned with mineral spirits and allowing it to fully cure/ harden for at least 1 - 2 weeks. I had planned to mask and spray various panel areas in lighter or darker Alclad but the masking required for the non-NMF areas burned me out on doing additional masking. Here's a funny masking shot below I took late in the build after realizing I should have painted and masked over them before spraying the Alclad - problem solving & learning all part of the fun of scale modeling! I did have fit problems between the engines and nacelles which required trimming of the inner annular flanges within the rear of each nacelle to get everything to fit. The landing gear was more troubling for me, particularly fiddly in merging the plastic pieces with white metal after market struts. This is a large and fairly hefty model and I didn't trust the kit supplied styrene struts although I've read on another build that they end up pretty sturdy. I also wouldn't recommend sweating the cockpit/ cabin - you can't see a thing inside when its assembled !!! The civil DC-4 version planned for release later this year might be be a good one to incorporate some LED lighting within the cabin. Next build for me is the new Zvezda 1/48 Pe-2 with really nice moldings, high part count and one open panel engine option. I look forward to going back to the ease and forgiveness of flat Tamiya acrylic! John
  13. Here's my 1/72 Revell C-54D Skymaster in colorful '49 scheme. This is my first attempt at mixing NMF with multiple solid colors - an exercise in multiple masking applications/ re-applications. The white super flexible Tamiya thin masking tape was a Godsend, particularly on the front edge of the vertical stabilizer. I installed the flap brackets early in the build and broke nearly all six during the painting/ masking cycles. Revel graciously sent me a full set of replacements at no charge - what a great co. Only after market I used were white metal landing gear struts and lead fishing weights within the front fuselage. I lost one of the shorter exhaust and so went with the longer ones specified for the blunter nosed '48 version but prefer the look of the longer ones. I'm quite impressed with the stock Revell decals! This kit is an all around fun build which makes me want to do it all over again with the DC-4 version coming out later this year - thinking all NMF with a classic 50's airline branding would look good. The yellow ladder is a Russian photo etch product from modelua.com, a breeze to assemble and fits nicely with the front cabin door. Enjoy! John
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