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  1. Thanks guys for the complimentary feedback. Pete - I think these are compressed air tanks, not sure what they are used for, hopefully one of the more knowledgeable tankers here can educate us both! When I tried searching this subject on the web, I ran across this amazing T-34 manual here.
  2. This is my fourth tank and the first with an interior and to my surprise and relief, it was an all-around fun build. I bought this AFV Club kit when it first appeared, about ten years ago, with the thought that it would be a fun one to practice/ learn tank building on. I originally figured I'd use the transparent turret and hull cover but the more I looked at the parts and picture on the box, the more I thought the clear parts made it look like a toy. I also wasn't sure what to use to bond the clear parts together with (UV cure cement? epoxy?). Once I decided to paint everything, it all fell into place. Painting the clear parts also allowed me to add a few weld joints to the front of the hull as well as roughen up the turret to make it look more like a casting by applying Mr. Surfacer 500 to the sides. The only upgrade I added was the AFV Club 550 mm workable tracks in place of the kit-supplied rubber band tracks. I used Tamiya acrylics with Vallejo Satin acrylic clear coat for the most part along with Alclad metallizers on the valve covers and brass ammo pieces and then enamel washes and dry-bushing for the light weathering. I mostly build cars, planes and ships but have really enjoyed these first few tanks and look forward to building a few more, particularly ones with full interiors. I welcome any and all suggestions, comments and critiques. Cheers, John
  3. Good progress so far Reini on this challenging kit. I built two of these when they were first released ten years ago (when they were only $40 USD!!!). On the first build, I totally botched the alignment/ squareness of the rear engine/ suspension/ rear tires assembly to the chassis because I pre-bonded most of the rear suspension/ transmission/ axle/ exhaust and upright support components to the engine before bonding the engine to the rear of the body assembly. The rear tires came out at weird angles relative to the chassis longitudinal axis and one of the rear tires did not touch the ground. I tried to fix my disaster using heat and bending and ended up with an expensive pile of parts/paint/ decals. On my second 72C kit attempt, I pre-assembled the rear suspension and transmission assembly without bonding it to the engine block. The instructions would have you bond the engine + transmission + rear suspension together before joining it to the body. I didn’t take any photos of my second 72C WIP but here’s a similar view of the Ebbro Lotus 49B rear suspension / transmission assembly I pre-built: I then cut two long plastic rods and press-fit them into the the rear upright wheel bearing housings to eyeball check alignment/ straightness BEFORE doing the final transmission to engine block bond: I’ve built all my other Ebbro F1 kits (and a few Tamiya/ Hasegawa/ Fujimi) this same way with pretty good success. Hopefully you won’t run into these issues but I wanted to pass on my own experience in case you wanted to consider this alternative assembly method. Whichever way you go, take your time and test fit liberally. It’s a great kit of one of F1’s all-time best looking cars IMO.
  4. Thank you Harold for responding to my wing stiffener question. Interestingly, after adding the wing stiffener on my build, the four wing struts came out being slightly short (approx 1 mm), likely due to the wing NOT deflecting as much. I ended up having to shim/ putty these gaps between the fuselage and struts - I just wanted to pass on this observation to other readers here that plan to build this kit and decide to add the wing spar reinforcement, a common modification with this kit. Look’s like your build came out fabulous without it so I think I’d skip it if I ever built another one of these big birds. .
  5. Great job Harold on this Aussie Cat! I built and posted a CANSO build here last summer and have an appreciation for the size this bird takes up on the bench and the amount of paint required to cover it. I went thru nearly two 23 ml jars of white Tamiya FX-2 on mine. Love the camo scheme on yours. You also did a terrific job on the Beltcher tail surgery which really makes a diff (I chickened out on doing this on mine, the required mods and re-scribing looked like quite a project within a project!). Your final wing assembly came out really straight/ flat; did you reinforce the wing with a metal rod/strip or other type of internal beam to add stiffness?
  6. Great pics! Incredible museum, been there twice, wife had to pull me out both times after 2-3 hours. Now that the He 219 and Horton are on display, I will have to plan yet another visit! In ‘83, I took a guided tour of the Paul Garber restoration facility outside of DC. Our tour guide, a retired US airmail pilot who flew in the 20’s -30’s let my buddies and I crawl around the Enola Gay when it was still partially disassembled and dusty. I remember seeing a Pogo VTOL, Goblin parasite aircraft and a mock-up of the Fat Man bomb in the same warehouse. Great memories.
  7. Looking good so far Badger! I wouldn’t sweat the missing locating boss on the upper fuselage cover. When I built this kit, I ended up replacing those molded-in bosses with longer brass pins in order to provide adequate engagement and press-fit retention with the mating holes. Getting the front “fuselage” cover and engine cover to fully seat onto the main lower body required a lot of debugging. Two other problems I encountered were with the exhausts/ extensions and the windscreen: Per the instructions, I prebonded the exhaust headers to the engine before assembling the turned aluminum exhaust extensions (which pass through the looped support member). Unless the exhausts headers are positioned PERFECTLY into the block and the block aligned and centered PERFECTLY within the chassis, these aluminum exhaust extensions will veer off at unslightly angles. If possible, I recommend bonding the headers and extensions at the very end after aligning everything relative to the engine/ chassis assembly. On the windscreen, I applied a very small amount of Testor’s clear part cement to the groove on the upper body (“fuselage “) cover to secure the windscreen in place. When I installed the windscreen, the adhesive wicked up between the very narrow space between the cover and screen creating an unsightly bond joint. I recommend either applying cement only at the rear of the windscreen or don’t bond it at all. Sorry for this long-winded response but I always appreciate suggestions/ warnings from other builders on here that help me avoid miss-steps. The RFI posting on my build can be seen here. Despite these issues, this is a very nice kit, particularly the turned aluminum velocity stacks and exhaust extensions. Wish Ebbro or MFH would offer these 1/20 parts as aftermarket.
  8. Clean meticulous paint & build and fabulous photography. I love “exploded view” studio shot in particular.
  9. Beautiful execution Lucky on this custom (a ‘48 - ‘49 Caddie?). My favorite features are the color combination and all that impeccable detail work within the interior. Wish I could paint shiny that good! Well done Sir! So disappointing to hear about Foose taking credit for Boyd’s work, really unnecessary, both very talented guys with more than enough creativity and accomplishments to go around. I also occasionally enjoy these “welding reality shows”and agree that they really don’t need all that phony drama to be entertaining. I would love to see Revell/ AMTR2/ Moebius/ Galaxie/ anyone produce an accurate 1/25 kit of a ‘49 Caddie Series 62 fastback coupe. Like Revell’s ‘50 Olds 88, I’d buy a bunch!
  10. Thank you gents! I agree with you Kiseca about all the open areas around the engine disrupting the ground effect benefits. The other thing on this model that surprised me was the lack of any additional connection rods between the rear suspension uprights and the body like most other monocoque F1 designs of the period. Is this model accurate in that the entire rear suspension and wheels/ tires are entirely connected/ supported by the transmission only? If true, this must be the most “monocoque” of any race car I’ve ever seen!
  11. I recently completed and posted the Tamiya McLaren M23 build and because it went so smoothly and was so much fun, I immediately followed it with this one - the Cosworth powered Ligier JS11 from '79. Built pretty much OOB except for MFH seat harness, fuel lines and intake screens. I airbrushed Zero base paint Ligier Blue and base white and clear coated over the base and decals with Mr Color UV Cut clear gloss lacquer. I replaced the yellowed kit decals with a set from Indycals and used the Indycal Goodyear tire decals over the original issue kit tires with the embossed lettering which worked out better than I anticipated (although I still prefer the un-embossed tires). I generally do not care for kit chromed parts but I used the front and rear wings, radiator deflector parts and the wheels as plated by Tamiya and I think they really pop against the blue and white. These old Tamiya F1 kits are a joy to assemble and still look great IMO, despite the old tooling. One of the more colorful F1 cars from back in the day, hope you like it! Cheers, John
  12. Excellent example of “less is more” weathering, particularly the dirt and mud on the bogies and tracks. Also incredible figure painting. Bravo!
  13. I agree with other comments here about the convincing desert patina/ weathering and I also think you did a great job on the figures. It’s also amazing how good that “sawed log wood plaque” base works with this tank without the hassle of adding any scenery or paint. If/when I ever attempt a N. Africa AFV subject, I will used your Sherman build as visual guide on the paint and weathering to try to aim for. Bravo!
  14. Amazing job Michael on the paint, weathering and rigging. Nice to see a WNW kit assembled and posted vs. collecting dust in the stash. I need to build one of mine soon, I’m not getting any younger!
  15. Absolutely spectacular model of a gorgeous race car! Can the front wheels be “steered” on these 1/24 MFH kits? (I feature I favor on car models, particularly when photographing). Any possibility you could post pic(s) of the under carriage as well as a front end view with the lights illuminated? Your build is inspiring me to splurge on one of these $$$ kits one day!
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