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About drgarbanzo

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  1. After an evening of thinking I ended up going both ways on the sump guards. The majority of it was painted satin black after a little masking and as you can see in the second photo the clear sections looked a little to clean so I added a few coats of diluted smoke to tint the remaining plastic. I think the finishing touch will be a coat of matt varnish to tone things down a little cause I don't like how shiny its ended up. I'd add the clear coat tonight but its current 7 C outside and wet which does not make for good clear coating weather. More soon.
  2. Another small update which has been slow in coming cause its report season at school and after 2 years of the chaos of Covid I'm finding myself fully exhausted by the time I get home from work in the evenings. Work has begun on the chassis with the underside now mostly done. I am at an impasse though because I can't decide if I want to paint all of the sump guards/ bash plates black per the instructions or if I want to paint one and leave the other 2 clear. I know there are ejector pin marks on the clear parts which detracts from it a little but I also don't want to hide all of the details that are under the plates. Everything need a wash and a decalling session to finish things up but then it will be onto the interior fit out.
  3. Thank you for the kind words. I ended up doing 5-6 coats over as many hours and it doesn't appear to have attacked the decals which is good but I'll have a closer look at it when I get home this evening. I started working on the chassis and running gear last night and will hopefully have some pictures to show soon.
  4. Another update on the Peugeot. I managed to get all of the decals onto the body and being tamiya's own decals they went onto the body far better than expected. Biggest issue I had was with one of the clarion decals that attempted to disintigrate as I removed it from the backing sheet. I've managed to mostly repair it and it shouldn't be super noticeable once the car is done. It's been drying all week so is ready for clear. If I had my way I'd use zero paints premixed stuff but it's getting cold out so I'll use TS13 and do my best to not have it eat my decals which I've had happen twice previously. More soon
  5. Work has continued on the NSX with the body decals all being applied. I also took the opportunity to carbon decal the engine cover which although I cannot find clear pictures of it being plain carbon it's a fair assumption to make. Being cartograph jobbies they weren't a problem to apply for the most part although I did have a slight issue with the bottom black decals on the front with part of the decal becoming detached and then affixing itself to the decal above it. It's a little disappointing but I think once the front cannards go on it'll be a little less noticeable. I'd clear the body tomorrow but it looks like the weather will be rather wintery aka a top of 15C which is not the greatest weather for shooting clear. I have a can of TS13 in the stash but I have had problems in the past with that clear eating my decals and ruining the build at the final moment. Cartograph is kind enough to supply backing decals for the number cards which means that the fluro red doesn't bleed through at all and something that I wish tamiya did with their own decals. Thanks for looking and more soon.
  6. Thats pretty standard window treatment with nunu kits ime. I did a BMW M6 GT3 a couple of years ago and it came with decals for the window edges that from memory went down alright in the end. I think all of the nunu decals come via SK decals and I haven't had issues using them on other kits including a car that should soon be ready for a rif thread but has no build thread because I wasn't posting on here at the time. Your build is looking good though.
  7. Thank you for the compliments. It's just TS36 by tamiya as the kit instructions ask for
  8. The original plan after the last post was to do the black and then the fluro red but I realised when I started to mask things that it was better to get the red on and then come back and do the black. For the most part the masking of the white did it's job with only a couple of small bits of overspray which I'm annoyed at but it is what it is at the end of the day. I didn't expect the fluro red to be quite as bright as it is but it's nearly eye searing in it's brightness. I'll mask it up for the satin black tomorrow before I begin the decal process. More soon!
  9. Two updates in a day is rare for me but today has been a productive day all round. I manged to get the satin black on the parts that needed silver and then masked up the parts that needed to remain satin black. The masking kinda worked but also had some overspray which doesn't surprise me given the thinness of the areas I was mask up. Once the paint has dried sufficently I'll be able to get the decal process started. I also got the floorpan painted along with the roll cage but no photos as yet
  10. Thanks for the compliments. With the arrival of paint I have been able to crack on with the body for this one. Before I apply the silver I masked off the red, primed the rest of the body with tamiya grey before applying semi gloss black. The black I feel is important because metallic colours always look a little flat to me if applied straight over grey. I am going to maks the areas that need to remain black before applying the silver. Much like my nsx build it is less than ideal painting conditions outside but leaving them in the warmest room in the house seems to be doing the trick. More soon
  11. Paint finally arrived yesterday so it was time to start getting some colour onto the car. Mr Color white spray was applied to the whole body so that the flouro red main body colour will be the brightest it can be. Once this has had time to set I will mask and spray the areas that need to be satin and then the red will be applied. The weather has decided to turn horrible outside so I'm trying to get coats of paint on fairly quick before bringing it back inside into the warmth to dry properly. Hopefully more soon
  12. A small update. I made it to the hobby shop near work this afternoon and managed to pick up some paint. After careful consideration I ended up going with the kit colours being TS17 and TS49. I painted the lower sills and sides of the chassis in bright red this evening which I only got a photo of the body with it's red. While I know there is a pile of overspray and I probably should have masked it I'm tired enough after the first week back teaching kids that I didn't think of it beforehand. On the other hand a large majority of it will be covered by the main silver colour so it should all come out in the wash. I would have picked up some black spray while I was there but they had no black tamiya spray of any variety and while I have some on the way it appears to have been doing laps of a postal facility in Sydney since Tuesday. According to the postal service it is still on time which is a little annoying. It also serves as a reminder to not order my paints from Melbourne on a Friday because they seem to get eaten by the system in the process where as items ordered on a sunday turn up faster. Amongst the black paint is the white I need to continue on with my other wip and it looks like it'll be too cold over the weekend to be able to airbrush outside as I have to do.
  13. The detailing kit was fairly difficult to find and my first attempt to get it from Korea failed as they weren't posting to Australia. Hobby Easy had one though so I ended up getting it from there. Your wip was illuminating and has given me a couple of pointers for where I might need to modify my kit to get it to work. I'll probably just go with the decals for the red but might also see if something like italian red (TS8) is a close enough match. I'm still thinking the body is going to be painted Mica Silver (TS76) instead of gloss Aluminium as it seems to match closer to my eyes than the Tamiya determined colour. I had a look at the decals last night and a few of them are a little yellowed so I have left them out on my desk for the day as I've had good luck using UV light to whiten decals in the past. Being tamiyas own decals and a rather old set at that I'm hoping that they aren't too delicate when it comes to decalling the car.
  14. Thanks for the compliments. Its an interesting choice for a kit and from previous experience it makes the model hard to handle once it's complete due to the added weight of the completed kit. This is particularly important when it comes to dusting and cleaning models which is the only time they leave the shelf once they are completed.
  15. While I wait for paint to arrive so that I can continue with my NSX build I decided to make a start on option B that I let my friends choose from. That kit in particular would be the Tamiya Peugeot 206 WRC 2002 which raced in the years that I followed WRC intensely before adult life got in the way. Given the kit comes with 4 seperate options I'm leaning heavily towards building this in Richard Burns trim which while I know he was all that competitive in the Peugeot I respected him and was rather sad when he died a few years later. Kit shots below: I did manage to score a detail set for the kit which isn't comrehensive but will allow for a little more detail to be added to the build. I'm also unlikely to use tamiyas specified TS17 for the build in favour of TS76 which is mica silver. This is partly becuase I have a can of that colour in stock and to me it matches more closely with the colour of the actual car which matters to me. I'm planning on carbon fibre decalling the parts that need it on both the inside and the outside as they will be fairly visible once the kit is assembled. I'm not really planning on using the provided figures as they don't suit the way that I display my models Thanks for looking.
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