Jump to content

Peter Browne

Gold Member
  • Posts

    169
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Peter Browne

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Republic of Western Australia
  • Interests
    F1, AFV

Recent Profile Visitors

776 profile views

Peter Browne's Achievements

New Member

New Member (2/9)

82

Reputation

  1. @Malc2 Thanks, The wheels were pretty straight forward and at 1/20 pretty amazing to look at. I was originally planning to just use superglue, and some epoxy on the heavier joins. Now I will try soldering the major bits, mostly for strength, but also to get 'seamless' joins, particularly for the engine and frame which I don't intend to paint. I'll use low temperature solder. Otherwise I'm using Loctite Professional on the small bits, which is pretty strong stuff. Hopefully post some pics next week.
  2. OK, closer inspection of the assembled engine showed the lower section very slightly askew to parallel to top section, so I decided to take the engine apart (it was glued with super glue) by soaking in acetone for 30 minutes and for soldering. Cleaned up parts again. Now waiting for HAKKO FX-888D soldering station to arrive with knife tip. In the meantime disc brakes added on transmission and a front and a rear wheel done.
  3. @krow113 Nice! I'm still doing my 1/9 Brough SS 100. Got any photos of the Crocker version ?
  4. I'm intrigued by what the new bike could be. Any ideas? https://www.modelfactoryhiro.com/hpgen/HPB/entries/349.html
  5. A yellow undercoat can make the red pop, it that is what is wanted. Check out:
  6. Engine block has been assembled and glued. I'm using Loctite Professional which is very strong and avoiding soldering at this stage in case I need to undo anything... The engine has some great fit in places, but there were areas where fit wasn't so good, despite checking alignment, clean-up, and dry fitting several times. Consequently there were a few 1mm to 1.3mm gaps in places, mainly along some join seams. I was originally planning to polish the engine and apply a wash, but now I have had to fill some of those gaps, so engine will be primed and painted. Filling was done with Green Stuff Green Putty, thinned with a bit of water and eased into the gaps. We will see how that goes after cleaning up the filling in a few days. I guess others would have soldered to fill in the gaps. I will post some more photos of the engine in a few days. This will be a slow (weekends only) but steady build...
  7. Parts sorted and ready to begin. Engine first up. Some parts wire brushed and any mould lines removed. Engine internal structure glued as well as gear box halves. Not really that much to do so far in cleanup, though some fine steel wool polishing needed for over zealous brushing
  8. I had previously posted this short review below of this revamped kit in Vehicle Discussion, but am now moving it to this build, which seems to make sense. I had previously seen the build of this kit at http://italianhorses.net/gallery/resin/hirof156/f156.htm which identified a number of shortcomings with the kit, including the cast white metal body, no battery and no water tank (which is a biggy). Opening the kit a few weeks ago, I was delighted to see two beautifully cast resin pieces for the body. Exquisite. Looking further I see a battery in the instructions and the water tank! Also finely detailed cast white metal pieces with no noticeable grain (or at least very little). Included are also the wheel knock-off caps, which I think were also omitted in the original release. Tubular chassis. Instructions are typical MFH... Photo etch in steel and thicker than your normal brass PE that you find in plastic kits. Wheel spokes on the left and disc brakes, panels, radiator grills, steering wheel arms, name plate etc.
  9. What do you use for dummy bolt and screw heads, nuts? I'm looking at 1/20 for MFH. Metal is preferred.
  10. Thanks @Black Knight So perhaps the MFH P958 Color Tube O.4 OD in clear brown? https://www.modelfactoryhiro.com/SHOP/P957_P958_P959_P960_P961.html Peter
  11. What size tubing should I use for a fuel line in 1/20? This is for a few MFH cars in 1/20; the Ferrari 156 Sharknose and the Ferrari 312F1. I would like it in clear yellow. Thanks, Peter
  12. Yes eventually, though I don't know which address. In the end I received the part, but I believe it was only after contacting the Australian distributor for RFM. They put in a request to RFM for the part on my behalf, and I received it in a week or so.
  13. I found this: Dunkelgelb (7028) • xf-60 (4) + xf-59 (1) • xf-60 (2) + xf-59 (2) + xf-2 (1) • xf-60 + xf-57 • xf-59 + xf-57 (highlights: add xf-55. Shadows: xf-72) • xf-60 + some xf-2 (xf-60 alone is a bit darker than the “true”, original shade) https://resourcesformodellers.wordpress.com/tag/ral-7028/
  14. but it's not glowing... Magnificent work! My eyes went straight to the wheels, I love the faint rust on the wheel hubs and the bottom of the body. Well done indeed.
  15. Go a reply! Dear Peter, We will send you the C10 part this week. Thank you for your support! Vicky Wei Best regards, Ryefield Models (HK) Co., Limited
×
×
  • Create New...