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About andyh59

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  • Birthday 01/14/1951

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    birmingham uk
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    luftwaffe 1935-45

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  1. Airfix first produced the 1/48 Junkers Ju87B-2/R-2 in the 1980's this was probably from all the work they did on their 1/24 release. Unfortunately this was one of the last releases Airfix made before their 'initial' demise and the kit reflects this. Although being dimensionally correct the kit gives the appearance of almost being a 'test shot' seemingly unfinished. Maybe this was Airfix trying to survive their coming demise by releasing new kits as quickly as possible. I bought my Stuka almost as soon as it was released but it languished in my stash until now even though it was bought out occasionally and little bits of work were carried out but then went back into the ever growing stash. Move on nearly 40 years and lo and behold the re-established Airfix release a Junkers Ju87B-1 in 1/48 which I immediately added to my stash. This release is of course light years beyond the original 1980's release. I then decided to commence a dual build of the two Airfix Stukas and here I present the end results :- Below are the end results of the 'first tool' Junkers Ju87B-2 although built as the R-2 trop version. The details I added to this build were new interior using parts from the Hasegawa Ju87B and scratch, some interior parts from the new Airfix kit such as instrument panel, 'bomb aiming' window parts, flaps and ailerons. A Falcon vac form canopy was used, under wing bomb racks replaced, all rivet detail removed, panel lines re-scribed, drop tanks from Eduard. I made no attempt to correct the lack of detail under the fuselage as the bomb tends to disguise this area. I painted this kit with Mission Model paints for 70/71 upper camouflage and AK Real Colours for the 'early' 79 /65 colours. Weathering I kept to a minimum, decals sourced from my 'decal library'. This kit represents a Junkers Ju87R-2 Trop from 4./St.G2 'Immelmann' Libya, May 1941:- Now the recent Airfix Ju87B-1 this kit shows the advance in our hobby over the years, an excellent kit, detail far beyond Airfix's first Ju87B. I built this kit with cowlings off showing the engine which is well detailed but looks even better with a little extra detailing added. I used the Eduard photo etch details plus mask, Quickboost replacement prop.blades plus spinner and the Xtradecals sheet. The main criticism of this kit is the unfortunately placed injector pin marks (easily dealt with) and the exaggerated rivet detailing which I left alone. Kit was painted using the new AK Real Aircraft Colours which are a pleasure to spray with, although I feel that maybe the 70/71 colours were a little on the dark side!! I used the Xtradecals sheet which as always performed well. The kit was finished as a machine from 7./St.G51 France 1940 again weathering was kept to a minimum:- An interesting comparison build showing how our hobby has advanced over the past 40 years, or in my case the past 55+ years . Cheers Andy
  2. This is a very slight conversion of Eduard's Bf109G-10 into the G-14A/S version see my WIP post Also my other RFI post. This Bf109G-14A/S is an aircraft of 2./JG77 Red '1' Wk.No.784930 January 1945, scheme is taken from the MMP book 'Bf109 Late Versions - Camouflage & Markings' Below I have posted some pics showing the result of my 'modification' of the cowling on the G-10 and G-14A/S:- Even built OOB the late model Bf109s by Eduard are to my mind the best around by my reckoning. I have now added the WNF G-10 to my stash which will also receive my 'modification'! Thanks for looking. Cheers Andy
  3. Allow me to present one of my latest builds this is Eduard's 1/48 Messerschmitt Bf109G-10 [MTT Regensburg]. Not happy with Eduards rendition of the asymetric cowling which I modified see build in WIP Forum. My build is a representation of the Bf109G-10 in which Heinrich Bartels met his death on 23rd December 1944 Yellow '13' Wrk.No. 130359 (an MTT Regensburg built machine) of 5./JG27. The remains of both pilot and machine were not discovered until January 1968! No photos exist of this machine so I based the finish on the other aircraft of JG27 at this time:- I leave it to the viewer to decide if you think I have improved on an already excellent product I myself am not 100% satisfied with the end result but I think the finished model represents the G-10 a little more accurately than the basic kit. Take a look at my 'conversion' of this kit to the G-14A/S version. Cheers Andy
  4. Welcome to the final instalment of this WIP. With both builds now finished in their Kleer coat it was now down to sorting the necessary decals out for each scheme I was able to source the majority from all the Eduard 109 decal sheets I had stashed. The only problem I thought I might have was sourcing the personal marking on Heinrich Bartels G-10 'Marga' (his wife's name I believe). Although no photos exsist of this machine it has been based on the other 109s of JG27 in use at the time of his death. Back to Marga, it just happens that Eduard supplied decals with one of their 109G-6s for a machine that Bartels flew, so my problem was solved. The yellow '13' came from an old Microscale set of Luftwaffe fighter numerals and was chosen to match as closely as possible the style on the earlier machines Bartels flew. This pic above shows the underside of yellow '13' decaled with panel line wash also added. The G-14A/S red '1' WkN.784930 just needed the numeral decal modified again from a Microscale Luftwaffe numeral set. The decals for the werk no. came a from a sheet of Eduard decals that included in the Fw190D JV44 combo and the JG77 badge from a sheet of FCM Luftwaffe Insignia. , Panel line wash was spotted on where necessary, allowed to dry for a while then streaked using a firm brush this gave me the weathering I required. These aircraft barely lasted months if not weeks at the time of their use in service 1944/5. I decide not to use pre or post shading on these two aircraft as I,m not convinced it gives an accurate impression of a weathered machine but find the streaked panel wash sufficient to give that impression (again a personal view not a statement of fact!!). t Both machines were given another coat of Kleer, then both sprayed with Xtracrylix Flat Varnish, my chosen finish as it imparts a nice sheen to the completed model. All masking removed and ready for final assembly:- Spinners had been previously sprayed white then masks cut out using the spiral decals from the Eduard 109 decal sheets, not completely successful but good enough to pass muster! Everything else was added to each machine, undercarriage, slats, canopies, drop tanks and aerials. The final results will be posted on RFI. Cheers for following Andy
  5. Back again, short update. Both machines have the fuselage Balkankreuz infilled with RLM70, so out came the masking sheet again. I made two masks, one for each aircraft, slightly smaller than the decals I will use, for the infill of RLM70. These were then used to spray the RLM70 on to both machines, The vertical tail and rudders of both aircraft are painted differently the G-14 has RLM81 background with hard edge blotches of RLM82 and soft edge blotches of RLM76. The G-10 has hard edge blotches of RLM82 over RLM75, I again made masks for both aircrafts tail surfaces to get the hard edge mottle. I used the Uschi Van Der Rosten walkway stencils on the wing, a great investment does away with decals for these items. With all the masking and painting done for now, both aircraft were sprayed overall with Future/Kleer ready for application of decals. Now to trawl through all my decals to find the markings, should I have sorted these at the beginning !!!!! Andy
  6. Another update on my dual build, progress has been a bit slow but I am getting there. Canopies were masked and Vallejo grey primer applied, however as the G-14A/S has natural metal panels on the underside of the wing gloss black primer was applied Then came the fun part of making good any blemishes, gaps and other slight imperfections. Thankfully not too many on these builds!! I re-sprayed where necessary with primer, when dry I polish the primer with a piece of denim (old Jeans!!) this gives a nice smooth finish for the top coats of paint. Then the underside of the G-14 was sprayed with Vallejo Metal paints, I masked off some panels and sprayed them with various shades of aluminium, looks better than one shade overall. The metal surfaces were masked and the flaps, ailerons, wing tips (undersides only of course) were sprayed RLM 76. I decided to use Mission Model paints for the final schemes excellent paints and not bad accuracy wise, I did have one criticism of these paints of which more later. As these were kits were Overtrees no masks were included but being a hoarder or should that be stingy?? I never throw used masks away but carefully remove them stick them back on the sheet and use them again. They seem to keep their adhesive qualities quite well so the masks for these 109s came from previous Eduard 109s I have built!! Now I was ready to apply the topcoat of paint. Both the machines had Defence of the Reich bands, the G-10 the green band of JG27 and the G-14 the white and green band of JG77. These were applied and masked off, the green RLM25 was from a jar of the old Aeromaster paint I still had. Undersurfaces and lower fuselage sides of the G-10 were sprayed MM paints RLM76 with 10% white (scale colour). The G-14 was one of those great patchwork schemes of the late war Luftwaffe machines, besides the unpainted wing the nose underside was RLM76. The remainder of the fuselage the so called RLM84 (a variation of RLM76) again I used an old jar of Aeromaster paint I had, not a bad match for this colour I thought. Now I usually use paper masks I cut out for the top surfaces camouflage patterns held on with tape and blue tack but have never been entirely happy with this method!! So looking for a substitute, other than the ,I think, expensive pre-cut masks I remember seeing the Tamiya sheets of masking. So bought a pack (one of the reasons for the delay) it's the same material Tamiya use for the masks in their own kits. To work I drew round an Eduard 109 wing and then drew in the camouflage pattern, then cut them out and applied them. As you may observe I don't try to replicate the overspray between the colours as I don't think it would be in scale on a 1/48 model. However I do replicate the sprayed effect on the fuselage, however this is where I began to lose my patience with the MM paints. It does not seem to like being sprayed on sparingly! It was a case of cleaning the airbrush needle after each short burst of paint, it took me an age to get the mottle on to these 109s. I tried thinning the paint and that didn't help, lowering the pressure that didn't help. Has anybody else had this experience with these paints?? Well that's it for now hopefully next update a bit sooner . Cheers Andy
  7. Hi Alex, No offence taken from your comments, model making is a hobby, how far we take what we build accuracy wise is a personal choice. How we read references can vary due to what one believes one sees and it's good we all see differently. One final word on cowlings I am representing fig38 Mtt Regensburg/WNF type 100 cowl. Figure 40 shows Erla type 110 cowl, with flat port fairing. Gun troughs as you stated aren't too bad so left as is. It will be interesting to see if Eduard release an Erla G-10 and how good a job they make of that [fingers crossed]. Thanks for your input Alex I think we should agree to disagree on this point!! All the best Andy
  8. Alex, Thanks for your interest in my build. As I said at the beginning of this article my personal view is that Eduard didn't get the assymetrical cowling quiet right so I wanted to rectify this for my own personal taste. My main reference is 'Messerschmitt Bf109 G-1 through K-4 -Engines and Fittings' on which I based my modifications Firstly the cowling on the G-10 this was a type 100 cowling which was fitted on all the Mtt Regensburg machines WNr130000 block, as you stated, this is what I am attempting to reproduce. This is shown in the front view at the beginning of the post and is not representative of the Erla type 110 cowling which had a shallower and wider oil cooler intake and no bulges under the nose unlike the Mtt version. In looking at the Eduard kit again it represents the Erla 110 cowl in not being quite as assymetrical as the Mtt, WNF/Diana type 100 cowl AGAIN MY OWN PERSONAL OPINION!!!! The G-14A/S cowling is a type 090 cowling which except for the position of the access panel over the cold weather starter and oil tank filler cover was identical to the type 100 cowl. We all have our own opinions and the above are mine based on the references I used so I have no intention of declaring war!!! I'm quite sure that the majority of modellers will build the Eduard kit as is and be happy with the result that is good because it will encourage Eduard to give us more variants of the later 109s to build to our own standards. Again thanks for the interest. Cheers Andy
  9. After my much needed break back to my 109 duo. Having reshaped the cowlings to my satisfaction I added the supercharger intakes and then the wings and tailplanes. On the subject of the wings, for reasons known to themselves, Eduard instead of making the underwing to rear fuselage join along a panel line gave us a V shaped join. Now, personally, no matter how I fill this join it always seems to show under the final finish! My thoughts turned to the UV glue I used for the wingtip lights, advertised as 'liquid plastic' I decided to use it on this awkward joint and it seems to have worked:- Primer will hopefully show this joint has now disappeared. During reshaping of the cowlings the two small bulges over the guns at the rear of the cowling were lost, so a simple plunge mould was made and the resulting bulges were reinstated. At this point I also made another bulge to cover the lower engine bearer arm, which fits on the port side wing fairing ( see the Hyperscale photos on the previous link to clarify this). Pitot tubes were replaced with hypodermic needles, panel lines and rivets were reinstated, control surfaces and flaps were added. The primer fuel and MW50 tanks drainer plugs were drilled out under the rear fuselage again hypodermic needles will eventually be added to represent these. G-14A/S G-10 Next step is masking and primer then making good any slight gliches shown up. I have decide on colour schemes, as stated before Eduard seem to have most of the Mtt Regensburg schemes on their decal sheet but after some trawling through the 'net' I found a colour scheme for Obfw. Heinrich Bartels of 15./JG 27, December 1944 although not an authenticated scheme his aircraft was an Mtt Regensburg machine Wk No.130359. The G-14A/S colour schemes are far more abundant and I have chosen a machine of 2/JG77 January 1945 Wk.No.784930. That's it for now see you again soon. Cheers Andy
  10. Another quick update before I leave for a weeks break in sunny Wales ( I can hope can't I? ). Not an awful lot of progress to report I've sanded the fuselage joins, added panel lines to spine & belly. Filler has been applied to the area above the supercharger intake to allow a slightly more prominent bulge in the cowling. This bulge is to clear the change in the engine bearer on the port side of the fuselage (see photos on previous Hyperscale link). After a fair bit of shaping with various grades of wet & dry paper, more filler applied, more sanding I was happy with the result. I then gave the resulting bulges a coat of primer with a brush :- I again sanded the primer down with fine grades of wet & dry paper until smooth, but it may need some further smoothing when the final coat of primer is applied. At this point I decided to fill the oil filler cap on the nose of what will become the G14A/S and rescribe a new one lower down as this model had the smaller oil tank. Well getting rid of the G10 filler cap, no problem! Scribing a new one - hopeless! Answer cut off nose ring above intake. Add new one with correctly positioned cap from spare fuselage of another Eduard 109, in my case a spare fuselage from the first tool Royal boxing. I'm pretty sure Eduard will eventually issue a G14A/S & hopefully with the correct panel detail ( I'm just impatient). :- Leaving the fuselage for the time being & moving onto the wings namely the ejection ports for the mgs. Left as they are you will be able to see into the fuselage so they need blocking off. My solution a simple moulded 'box' using the push mould method the photos show the results, painted they at least give a representation of the spent cartridge chutes. I also added the underwing radiators not forgetting a small piece of wire for the actuators for the front of the radiators. :- My final work, for the time being, was to add the oil cooler intakes under the nose of the fuselage. I did slightly modify the intakes as per the Hyperscale discussion https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/hyperscale/bf109g-10-oil-cooler-and-the-new-eduard-kit-t498072.html. Although the method I chose was to simply use a sharp blade to remove a small piece of plastic from the top of the G10 oil cooler covers to alter them to the correct shape for the Regensburg built machines. Tail fin tops were added & the front windscreen which required some filler to get a smooth fit. Wings are just push fitted to the fuselage temporarily:- Well thats it for now I,m off for my break will be back for a further instalment later. Cheers Andy
  11. Who said you'll have more spare time after retirement???? After getting off to a good start you suddenly have demands on your time and your build is put on hold thus the above sub-title!!! All I have managed is to detail the cockpits and get the wings and fuselages together. This was a pretty straightforward exercise, I opted to use the kit parts with the photo etch 'overlept'! I should mention both kits were the overtrees versions, which incidentally I purchased from Eduard at a discount price plus free postage so I got two kits plus photo etch for the price of one Profipack here in the U.K.! I very rarely use the colour schemes supplied in kits so the lack of decals was of little concern except Eduard seem to have most of the schemes for the MTT Regensburg G-10s which caused some problems finding a different scheme, but more of that later. Onto the work carried out so far :- Thus the work completed so far. As you can see the cowlings need a bit of work to get them faired in and to the shape I wish to achieve. These Eduard kits are certainly much better representations of the G-10s than I believe Hasegawa's are but as stated previously from studying photos they have not captured the full assymetric shape of the cowling, which I'm hoping my modification will!! Well, whilst uploading this article I have been interrupted several times 'RETIREMENT MORE SPARE TIME FOR YOURSELF -YEAH!!!!!!!!!' See you later (much later probably) Cheers Andy
  12. Thanks for your input have taken this correction onboard. I presume this oil cooler was used on the Regensburg G-14/AS as well?? Hi James I agree with your criticism of the Eduard Bf109E series but biggest bugs are over long fuselage and over size slats. Maybe candidate for re-tool Eduard ???? Cheers Andy
  13. The Eduard line of Messerschmitt Bf109s love 'em or hate 'em we remain divided!!!! Personally I prefer them to the other two main competiters (Zvezda & Tamiya 1/48 of course) I know they have their faults but I don't feel they distract from the overall finished product (except the E series!). The latest in the line and my next two builds. A G-10 and a G-14/AS Mtt Regensburg, however I'm not satisfied with the Eduard rendition of the assymetric cowling which typifies these later sub types of 109. I think Eduard have captured the cowling shape well, but to my eyes and comparision with drawings and photos it looks too symetrical. Before this starts any great debate on this particular forum these views are my own personal feelings on this kit. If anyone is interested on discussions as to the 'accuracy' of this kit I refer you to the following links https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234947521-148-messerschmitt-bf109f-g-gustav-friedrich-family-by-eduard-next-variants-bf109g-14-avia-s-99c-10-october-2018/&page=6 https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/hyperscale/about-the-cowling-of-the-new-bf-109g-10-eduard-t497142.html https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/hyperscale/bf109g-10-oil-cooler-and-the-new-eduard-kit-t498072.html This is according to drawings, I found, the shape the cowling should be :- Plus these set of photos show the correct shape:- http://www.clubhyper.com/reference/bf109detailbg_1.htm To my eyes as I stated before the Eduard rendition is too symetrical in comparision, so before the build commences something needs to be done to rectify the cowling shape. The following is my way of doing this. I removed the outlined portion of the cowling with a saw and then glued it back so this panel overlapped the fuselage by a fraction (eyeballed) this gave the cowling a slightly larger bulge. According to several photos I found the cowling overlaps the fuselage on the port side (as shown in the photos in the last link). The front of this panel very slightly overlaps where it rejoins the cowling, this I gently sanded down, in doing this it gives a little more emphasis to the bulge at the rear of this panel. I then turned my attention to the top of the cowling and removed the outlined portion of this:- I then glued this to to the portion of cowling I had previously removed and rejoined to the fuselage. This will result in a small gap when the top cowling is added to the fuselage but I will fill this with plasticard. Onto the starboard fuselage, again from the photos on hyperscale it shows an excellent shot of the fuselage minus engine which shows quite clearly the scalloped fairings behind the cowling. Here you can see the starboard fairing is not as deep as the port fairing, where as on the kit they are the same depth so some careful sanding is called for within the area outlined in the photo below:- This removes some of the surface detail which will have to be replaced later, the upper cowling will also require some sanding down. I actually found in MMP's publication 'Bf109 Late Versions - Camouflage & Markings' a 1/48 front view of the G-10 cowling which I traced onto card, cut out and used as a rough template to get the cowling shape to my liking! The pics above give an idea of what I was after, with the assymetric effect more pronounced than Eduards rendition. I applied some filler to the top cowling to make the bulge covering the modified engine bearer more pronounced. This will require more attention when the fuselage is eventually assembled. Leaving the fuselage for now I turned to the undercarriage legs, these according to critics are incorrect for the later G models so I made an effort of sorts to modify them my efforts are shown below. Whilst not completely accurate will satisfy me! With all my builds of Eduards 109s I slightly modify the exhausts by cutting down the backing they are moulded to so I can insert them after painting is done. I sand the stacks down a little themselves, as they appear to be slightly on the large size a criticism of all Eduard's 109G series. My final work for now was to replace the solid wingtip lights with transparent ones. for this I decided to use a method I read of on Britmodeller, using UV glue. The solid lights are removed then a hole is drilled, a very small one, in the corner of the cutout into this a piece of transparent sprue coloured with Tamiya red or green clear paint, to represent the bulb. The glue is then applied into the cutout filling it, the UV light supplied is used to cure the glue. The hardened glue can now be treated as transparent plastic, sanded down and restored to clarity ( I use Brasso metal polish) easy!! The last pic shows how the UV glue is supplied, mine came from Amazon who have quite a selection of these glues at various prices. A brilliant way to sort out wingtip lights. Well that's it for now, more to follow in due course happy to hear your thoughts on this build, Cheers Andy
  14. Many thanks for your positive comments. As to any tips or pitfalls with this kit they are really just take care with alignment of parts ( especially the cowling ). I did have to make some slight adjustments fitting the lower wing to fuselage and use a little filler to fair in but this may have been down to me rather than the kit!! Just take your time you will need tweezers and in my case a head magnifier especially with some of the photo-etch. The top wing is no problem with fit and alignment, just fit the cabane struts to the fuselage first before they stick too firmly dry fit the top wing to get their alignment correct. When I finally added the top wing I just glued it to the cabane struts, the main struts were just snapped in without the need for glue. In regards to the ESCI/AMTech/Italeri/Revell kit there really is no comparision, but when first issued over 30 years was a type I would have never have thought to see in kit form and has served well all that time. I still have 3 unbuilt kits in my stash - what to do with them ??? Too much to hope, I expect, for Gaspatch to bring out another Luftwaffe type of this standard, but just enjoy building this state of the art modellers kit highly recommended. Again thanks for your comments. Cheers Andy
  15. Just completed the excellent Gaspatch 1/48 Henschel Hs123B-1, this really is a beautiful kit, although it doesn't fall together like the Tamigawa kits, but requires some patience and thought to assemble. I also used the Eduard p/e accessory set, mainly for the control panel ( a bit of laziness on my part ) instead of using the kit supplied plastic panel and decals. This kit actually requires no aftermarket parts everything is supplied. I decided I wanted to represent a well used, well worn machine. I used Vallejo Model Air Paints for the main camouflage colours RLM 71/65 and Mission Models paint for the RLM04. I actually faded the paints more than I usually would to give a well worn finish. This particular machine is from 4/SchG2 Russia 1942-43, this aircraft scheme is from the internet and AMTech boxing of the old ESCI kit which incorrectly states it to be a Hs123A-1. Although it is difficult to differentiate between the A and B models the wings being fabric covered on the A and metal on the B not easily discernable from photographs. The base is just a temporary setting for the "photo-shoot"! Cheers Andy
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