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BritJet

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BritJet last won the day on August 10 2019

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About BritJet

  • Rank
    I didn't do it.......
  • Birthday 06/10/1963

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Birmingham
  • Interests
    British jets, RAE, ETPS, QinetiQ & A+AEE aircraft

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  1. Looks good Andy, I'll be sending you an order later today. Steve
  2. Both very nicely done, we do need a photo of them with VX770..... Steve
  3. BritJet

    Model Shops UK

    I've extracted the text from the PDF. if you want to use/update the details for a new version. @Chris Jephcott hope this is ok as it's a shame to not have your list available on here anymore after all the work that went into it. Steve
  4. BritJet

    Model Shops UK

    I saved the original list as a PDF for easy access - probably a bit out of date now but hopefully will fill in a few gaps Steve
  5. That's looking good and I will definitely get one when it's available. A couple of suggestions, if I may; 1. Would it be possible to extend the slots of the centre fuselage clamps so that a larger diameter can be accomodated. I know you are considering a larger jig for 1/48 scale but there is a wide range of fuselage sizes in 1/72. 2. Could a grid of calibration lines be added to all the triangular pieces to aid aligning the fuselage, tailplane and wings. Horizontal lines would match up to fuselage panel lines to check the centreline is on the vertical axis
  6. Very nicely done, makes a change from most airliner schemes. @Mikey-1980 I think it would have been an MD83 back in 1991 Steve
  7. No real problems but the instructions and fit of some parts are a bit vague in places. The rotor head support and undercarriage struts need a bit of care to align. Just take your time with it and you'll be fine. Enjoy it! Steve
  8. Yes, it's the old Matchbox kit and construction has a few quirks but it's not a bad kit. Some suggestions for you; The tail joint is very weak and likely to break at some point also there is usually a step between the fuselage and tail which is difficult to deal with. Cut away the lip on the rear of the fuselage halves and clean out the opening. Find some sprue that will fit into the tail unit to brace across the joint. Pack inside the rear fuselage so the sprue is a good fit. Glue some thin plastic card onto the rear face of the fuselage halves and make a hole in the middle t
  9. Cockpit look fine, you can't see any of it anyway once the fuselage is closed up so there's no point in any extra work on it. Have you decided on a colour scheme yet? Steve
  10. Some Canberras had 24" fuselage serials but yes 48" under the wings Steve
  11. Thanks, I spent a fair bit of time looking at alternative colour schemes before I bought the kit and Lithuanian seemed easy enough to do but different from most airline schemes. Those panel lines are exactly how mine were, as you've probably found already they soon clean up. I found the depth of the panel lines to be look right once painted. Steve
  12. I built this kit last year but the Orel Avia decals didn't appeal so I printed my own for Lithuanian Airlines. It's a lovely kit but be careful of the sharp edges on the fibreglass parts. Some of the panel lines on the wings need to be cleaned out to remove small lumps of resin but on the whole no problems with building it. It's a lot bigger than it looks in photos! Hope you enjoy it. Steve
  13. Apart from the new fuselage, the wings were extended in span inboard of the nacelles but reduced in span at the tips so the overall span was the same. The nacelles and tailplanes are different. Steve
  14. I used to use Experts Choice decal paper that came in packs of three but they seem difficult to get now and the single sheet packs work out quite expensive. I now get my paper from Amazon - something like this - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07T4PXKXF/ref=sspa_dk_hqp_detail_aax_0?psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzNUlQRkhVS0c2WkFKJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTA2OTg3UEdGUVA1M0tBSjdFJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA1Mjk3Mjc4WDRKQkg5TUNHQTEmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9ocXBfc2hhcmVkJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== Where you've got the XI HO L on your sheet, should the I be a J? You
  15. That will work, when you print onto the white paper an have clear coated, cut up to the black rectangle no closer than about 0.5 mm. If the printed area gets cut into then the ink will bleed. As you've got to leave a border around the printed area there will be a white line all the way around. You can either touch this up with the black paint or maybe you could incorporate it into the design? Steve
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