neilh

Correct in that it can only be sprayed, but see my recent post in this forum, it's carrier medium seems to be a lot hotter than Alclad in my first use of the product. It crazed the Alclad primer I had used. Never ever had that happen with Alclad. Could be the primer was the newer Alclad gloss grey, so perhaps a different base formula to the usual matt grey primer.

interesting choice. Wonder what the expected sales are for such a niche interest subject, especially since the subject has been covered before, albeit with early limited run technology kits?

Hi Everyone, I've used Alclad for years, using their grey primer and various shades for NMF finishes. I've mixed in Mr Color, Tamiya, Mr Paint and SMS lacquers too. I usually always start with Alclad and work through the other brands since Alclad seems to be the hottest lacquer. Recently I have not been able to source replacement bottles of Alclad here in the UK, but was able to re stock with Migs A Stand which claims on their web page to be Alclad, just renamed ( and looks and smells identical) . I am currently building a Sword Lightning twin seater and having ( finally) got a decent finish on the plastic, I primed with Alclad grey primer, and then shot a coat of A Stand aluminium. It came out a little grainy and uneven so I sanded back and coated with Alclads gloss grey primer which I have not used before. That produced a very smooth primer base. When 2 days later I sprayed the A Stand aluminium it crazed in several places, almost a if I have sprayed on pure lacquer thinner or was spraying lacquer over enamel. Is the gloss grey primer an enamel primer rather than a lacquer based one? I know Alclad used to recommend their gloss black primer for the " high shine" finishes which were a different formula to the standard Alclad metallic shades.

If you need to strip the paint an start again, Mr Muscle oven cleaner will do the trick and not effect resin or plastic. t's really smelly and messy though so I wear latex gloves and spray the stuff on the model inside a large zip loc freezer bag. Seal it up and then scrub off the paint under running water with a paintbrush. Fairy Power spray works almost as well and is not quite so messy. Both will also have the added benefit of removing any mould release agent remaining. For masking I sometimes use post it notes cut to size. If you keep the air pressure down they will stay in place and the glue is unlikely to remove any previous paint.

I got my kit last night. At worst I aim to copy the ideas of Bjorn and Jon and sand to a better shape, but I was wondering at which point does the trainer fuselage widen to accommodate the extra seat? I was wondering if the front of the tub from the PR kit would slot into the rear fuselage of the excellent Alley Cat kit. Another option could be to cut the cockpit out of the Airfix upper and lower fuselage halves and insert the PR pod. Drastic and possibly expensive but a thought.

Thanks for your kind words Gents. I'll be busy with funeral arrangements and as Executor there will be lots to do there as well but I hope to find some time to keep Rupert progressing.

Just a small update on this one. Sadly I have to report that my Dad, the intended recipient of this model contracted pneumonia and sadly passed away at the hospital in Bristol. I was a bit unsure if I wanted to continue with Rupert, but Dad did enjoy seeing the WIP photos so I have decided to crack on. The bridge and mast are temporarily fitted for now. I finished the railings for the upper decks. One section took 3 lots of railings and at least 6 attempts to get right ( very very frustrating!). I added the boats, amending the etched davits to better represent the Quadrantal davits used for the whaler, and I reversed the kit davits for the motor boat as all the photos I found seem to show them facing inboard. Doing so put the motor boat right on top of the length of railing that took me 6 attempts to fit! The motor boat is held from the davits by thin wire. I made up some oars for the whaler but think it was likely to have been covered in reality. I fitted the extra stowage for the depth charges which meant I needed to relocate the rear Carley float stowage. The photos of this area on Rupert ( the one with Redmill) are very blurred but I think they are now about right. Next step will be adding the railings around the edge of the lower deck, after which I can then add the weathering and then add all the final detail parts.

Love the final effect, that sea scape base is excellent and I too feel " cold" looking at it....

Thanks Rob, do you cut the figures from the base to detail paint them? I can't see how I can get a brush in to get all around the figure without splodging paint on an adjacent figure.

I'll soon have to paint some Black Cat Royal Navy figures for my model. Does anyone have any tips on how best to paint them? They are the rough weather figures so likely black boots, Navy trousers and brown(?) duffel coats. Thanks.

Neat work there on the dazzle camo scheme. Can see how effective it might have been full size.

Goodness what a difference in appearance! That should improve things nicely.

Thanks Modelholic. Those are the spare depth charge holders - think they are called arbors (?) for the deck mounted K Guns ( yet to be fitted) . They are moulded on the kit parts and are probably a bit overscale but I really didn't fancy cutting them all off and trying to build them from scratch or trying to fold them all up from an etched brass set!

A quick update before an extended Easter break so away from home for 2 weeks. I have started adding the railings from the inside of the ship to the outside. I think it went OK for a first attempt with etched railings. I will fill any small gaps with white glue and touch up when dry. They look much tidier to the naked eye than in large digital photos. I also added two more doors to the upper bridge and since I had no more etched " close" doors, decided to open one up. I also added a missing ladder to the rear. The upper bridge is temporarily fitted. I had hoped to add the depth charge storage racks and sort out the boats today before moving on to the outer railings on the deck edge after the holiday but circumstances prevented that so it'll have to wait. I did lose one of the inclined ladders for 4 days. I looked and looked and eventually had to clear the entire workbench and found it hidden in the rear corner of my desk under an overhang of the lid. I'm learning that when you hold your breath to add a railing and then exhale, tiny etched pieces can suddenly fly away, completely unknown to me at the time! I also cut out and bent to shape the ridiculously tiny depression bars that prevent the gunners shooting at the ship. I will fit them just before I add the guns. Once the outer railings are on, its then a case of adding all pre painted armament, searchlights etc , the mast and the boats and then weathering and rigging.

Bit more progress. I've started the assembly from the centre of the ship outwards. The bridge is just test fitted as I will need to fit this at the same time as I add the mast so planning to leave that right to the end before I rig. Added a representation of some vents and extra ammo lockers. The etched supports for the gun tubs were fun ( not!). I've been touching up paint as I go so currently a mix of gloss and matt finishes. I hope a matt coat post weathering will bring the finish together. Of note are the colourful floats. Like the unusual B55 panel, another feature of the ships in 21 Escort Group. Thanks to @Stephen Allen for the helpful diagram of these. I think the next job will be the railings around the upper decks and those around the guns, after which I can then add the guns and depth charge racks and throwers.