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Vehicle Content

Showing topics in Vehicle Discussion, Work In Progress - Vehicles, Ready For Inspection - Vehicles and Vehicle Reviews and articles.

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  1. Past hour
  2. Hi Guys - I am a new member and this is my first posting - when I was a teenager (60 years ago - scary isn't it) I had many hours of pleasure building 1/24 scale Merit Racing |Car Kits - sadly some have gone missing over time but I still have 11 of them all fully constructed still in their boxes along with the assembly instructions - I have - 1950 Alfa Romeo Type 158,1949 GP Lago-Talbot, 1956 Aston Martin 3S, 1956 BRM, 1956 G.P. Vanwall, 1956 GP Maserati, 1956 Lotus MK X1, 1954/5 Simca Gordini, 1956 Cooper 500 MK 1X, 1954 'D' Type Jaguar and a 1956 GP Connaught (Syracuse) which somehow has ended up in the box for a 1948 4CLT Maserati The decision now is what to do with them as by my calcul;ations they have lived in a suitcase in the lofts of 5 different houses
  3. That is interesting! First where I don't quite agree, that's the assessment that primer is always thick. Try Alclad Grey Microfiller & Primer, to be thinned with either Alclad thinner or (as I do myself) Mr Hobby thinner. That primer gives a great thin layer. It doesn't have to fully cover the body, if it provides grip that's all you need. Furthermore I am not convinced this Fiat had a 'metallic red' body color. Wouldn't it be flat red? I'd like to know your thoughts on this. What is especially interesting to me is your method of creating a metal look. Till now I had not thought of a method to realistically model metal paint, because the bits of metal in true metallic paint wouldn't be scale-true if used on model cars. Many have tried and failed, in my view. Your method is new to me and would certainly be worth a try for those who want to apply a paint that resembles metallic paint.
  4. Just a quick update but no photos. Ive primed the frame and some of the components and have a bit of further cleaning up and ghost seam lines to get rid of before I progress further. I've found a gold mine for anyone wishing to super detail one of these. Here is a parts breakdown. https://www.bike-parts-honda.com/moto-honda-identification-VFR750RJ-10295.html One thing I'm considering is adding some detail to the upper side of the rear fairing as the tool kit is stowed there but it's only worth adding if I intend to remove the rear fairing. Do other bike modellers remove the fairings occasionally or do they stay on once the model is complete? Regards, Mark
  5. Thanks BeastieBoy73, I don't know about that as the chassis was a bind, having to put alloy tube across the width of it as it comes in two halves lengthways and won't sit straight.
  6. No Roy, I want to have as primer the True Metal silver, that creates an effect of metal look, and that is much less thick than any primer. I will just have to take a lot of care with masking tape (for the numbers, fe), because the paint on the True Metal is quite fragile. The masking tape adhesive will need to be decreased.
  7. Thank you very much Cheers Michael
  8. I agree that the rivets seem to be a bit too large. Are you not going to prime the model before painting?
  9. Hello to all, it made me funny to use my airbrush again. With all this amazing reshape work, I hadn't been using it for a long time! The test shows: 1) I like the paint and I confirm that choice for my 806. It is the X7 Tamiya enamel, that is not easy to find in France because it is not exported. You can't judge the result on this photo, that does not correspond to the reality. And even me, I can't have yet a precise idea of the final result with this coat that does not cover very well. 2) I have used the X20 Tamiya enamel thinner that gives a slightly gloss finish that I like. If you want a more glossy finish, you can use a Lacquer thinner (Tamiya, fe) but I think it is not the good choice for our car. 3) My rivets, as Sam suggested, are too big. I wonder if I will use 0,7 or 0,8 mm. I am afraid 0,8 mm are still a little big (not a big difference with 0,9) 4) I must fill and sand more the joint of tail section, that remains a bit visible.
  10. Today
  11. There is a Merseyside bus preservation group that may have something to help there
  12. You are right, Sam, but when I say the rivets in photo 3 must have the same size than these 4 ones, it's a visual perception. I have sanded with care my rivets to decrease the round effect and I have applied a coat of X7 Tamiya enamel paint thinned with X20 Tamiya. I let dry and I post the result... About the blueprints sent by Paul, sure it is a very beautiful testimony! I just regret we can't have absolute certainty because the ones of the car as we build, done in 1925 or 1926, have definitely been pitifully thrown away...
  13. Another inspired choice of kit...
  14. Yes dear Olivier, the Mef has several sizes of rivets as you point out. it was not made at the Fiat workshop so i would not compare it to the fabulous 806. Personally am very happy with the blue prints as a framed picture. We even have the name of the designer etc. and it makes for a good piece of memorablia. The gasoline tank is not reproduced though and the rivets we are talking about remain a 'semi-mystery"
  15. One other point: Hannes suggested that the rear leaf springs should be shorter in lenght. I have checked on Drawing 2 and compared at same scale (I recall for that, I must have 200 mm on my drawing 2 between the center of rear and front axle). I get 78,5 mm lenght for the rear leaf springs. And if I measure them on my build (the kit's one, I did not modify them in lenght), I get 75 mm. So, if I refer to drawing 2, they should not be shorter but a bit longer. But I recall the tail is longer on D2, and this fact maybe required to have longer springs. That's why it is a pity that we don't have the good blueprints. Personally, until now, in the lack of certainty, I will not modify my springs lenght.
  16. I don't know. The wood inlay does look nice but, I think that I prefer it without. I don't have the advantage of seeing the how it looks in a full view of the car and with the rest of the body panels on. I think it's a decision that can wait until you can see how it works with the car a little more complete. w
  17. I agree with you, Nick, and, personally, I try to use both Drawing 2 generated and photos. And in fact, I don't see so many differences between both... Of course, it would have been great if Paul had provided us the good blueprints (I mean the ones of the car we build and not a later version, with little changes). This work to get the good shapes is very long and difficult, and I learnt a lot with it. Not trusting to much my eyes, be careful with what seems to be the true, etc. Yesterday morning, I have been working on the proportions in the vertical direction: Notice that I made this work on an "old" photo I made (p.35 of this thread), on which I studied then the proportions horizontally It seems that: - even if I had ever cut between 4,5 and 5 mm of my body in height, it is still a bit too height. Take care, these are not mm, just a relation of proportions. I think I should decrease this height of maybe around 1mm, and then make a new check. - Hannes is right, the cramp construction should be more backward, around 3 mm IMHO. Doing this requires still a lot of job, not sure to do it... - my seat fairing should go down more than what it does. It would be interesting to put the wheel and the exhaust on the build and see what it gives with them. On Sam question about rivets size, I have cheched on the Mef's photos. There are different rivets sizes, but I think we can consider the 806 ones on photo 3 are a little the same than the 4 ones on this photo, between the X-D and 7117 inscriptions. If it is so, I agree with Sam, 0,7 would be too small, and probably 0,8 mm would be the best choice, but 0,9 would be maybe acceptable. I am gonna make a painting test and will show you the result...
  18. Right and left protection plates achieved and bolted on the frame rails, and crossmember fixed. Now, it remains to make some reparations: - 4 spark plugs have leaved their holder and must be glued to avoid loosing them. - during these works of protection plates making, some parts have debonded and three added parts on front spring leaves have disappeared: I have to scratch build them again, and fix them on a better way. Next, I'll finish and fix the exhaust tubes and muffler Then, i'll have to scrachbuild the engine's front protection plate and the lower part of the radiator, not provided in the kit, but visible on the prototype at Lowman's Museum Stay tuned if you like, and thank you for watching and criticizing
  19. Well! That could be real - what more can I say?!! A year well spent. ATB Rick
  20. Really cool stuff Ron. I like the scratch bits too. The tape for the finning effect is really convincing. You would think it's made of stacked metal plates! The weathering/oiled look is very skillfully executed. That last pic looks like the real thing!
  21. Very neat! Lovely slick build and super finish. As Keefr22 says, that V.12 just looks like it has always been there - great installation job. ATB Rick
  22. I prefer the naked/paint look. Show off that mirror finish you worked so hard on!
  23. Yesterday
  24. OK, so for the last couple of days I've been rear frame building on the Fujimi. All scratchbuilt with 1.1 mm Plastruct styrene rod. Referencing the MFH frame really helped here, but it was basically a lot of precision measuring and cutting. First off was the rear truss basic framework. The sides are slightly tapered in to fit into the rear of the car. Then slowing building in the lower end and cross pieces And a quick test fit over the firewall. The resin lug that holds the engine and is part of the firewall was not actually square which is a shame as the bottom of the frame had to bend around it slightly to fit. Not really a problem though. And then adding in the side frames. I used the 1ml 24G syringe pictured to basically drip tiny drops of plastic weld onto the joints once they were taped ( or blu tacked ) down. Really had to make sure that both the tape and the blu tack didn't dissolve with the plastikweld beforehand or that would have resulted in a real mess. FTR it doesn't. Then another test fit to make sure the side arms were clearing the decks of the side pods. Then a look at the two tanks on the left hand side pod. One was originally supposed to attach to the firewall but the fixing has now been cut off to accommodate the frame and it'll be free standing. The other tank was flush with the deck and needed an angle cutting under it again to accommodate a cross brace part of the frame. And then a start on the two frame sides, slowly building them up piece by piece leaving overhangs that can be cut back on the final fitting. Long night here getting this correct. Then a test fit of it all together within the rear of the car with the top ( black ) Fujimi frame All fitting nicely here, And here you can see a test piece of cross brace running under the tank And side view of the opposite frame. Once glued the rear, sides and Fujimi frame will be one piece for priming and painting. minus the very left hand side ( of the picture ) black transkit uprights which will come off to get the engine seated before clamping it in place over the gearbox. All that needs doing now is some cleaning up of plastic weld residue, some extra detailing on the cross braces, the actual gluing of the side frames to the rear frame and Fujimi top frame then priming and painting and we have a completed rear engine cage and frame. So yeah, some long old scratch building sessions to get this done, but really pleased with how this is coming along. It was a damn site easier than putting the MFH frame together that's for sure. Thanks for looking.
  25. We restored a Mk1 Escort a few years back into a semi replica of the 1968 Circuit of Ireland car and used Ermine White. I liked the shade so much that I repainted my Skoda rally car the same colour.
  26. Wow, just had a look around the site! That's some collection isn't it? Must keep a lookout for them at a show. Thanks for the tip off
  27. Very nice indeed. Does anybody have a link to the pictures of an Avantador that was taken apart to get in into a museum. I once had it but I seem to have misplaced it. It may help the avantador builders here.
  28. Setup my direct debit (4th Jan), had an email to say thank you, and my subscription will start with Issue 1, great I thought, can not wait. A week later had an email outlining the payment days plus when the four issues a month will be despatched, still great. Today (23rd Jan) had another email saying issues 4-7 will be with me in five working days, great. But where are issues 1-3? Emailed Eaglemoss to ask where the missing three issues are. They tell me I have not ordered the first three issues but would I like to buy them. Wait a minute... their first email and my bank account says I have paid for them already. Anyone else having the same or a similar problem? Always steered clear of part builds because of this sort of problem, issues missing, parts in the issues not present, so on and so forth. Thought this company would be different. Lets see what the next email says.... Cheers Richard
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