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Over the past few years F1 have had to go as slow as they can fast, if you get what I mean, tyres, fuel, and wimpy engine, So Mercedes was going to win. Now it's back to being faster cars, Ferrari will Win, Mercedes will pull out end of year, expect Hamilton to go red, he is hinting. Also, American influence will start to show, maybe new American driver or two. F1, is in a bad way, don't think having boy looking drivers has helped, more spots than beards, We need characters in the sport, that turn in to Legends.😏
Mr Laube is about to restore a MB 300 SL gullwing with a blue color . What a beautiful car ! Tomorrow I´ll post some pics of my new radiator case without liquid filler so you can see my construction . Many greetings ! Hannes
Dear Hannes, I don't know yet what I will do with the radiator. My next steps will concern the steering column, the gearbox, the fuel tank, the driver's seat etc. All the front part will come a bit later. One thing is sure, I will try to get the best result for the front part of the car, as I did for the other aspects (bodywork, frame, steering wheel, leaf springs, wheels etc. If the kit's radiator can't be used with a good result, I won't use it. All the best Olivier
Dear Olivier , do you really intend to use this small radiator in your radiator case ? Don´t forget , if you build the case according the original , the width will be about 4 cm ! The kit´s radiator would look not very convincing in this case imho. I will make a scratchbuild , but there´s the possibility too to use the kit´s radiator frame parts by elongating them Many greetings ! Hannes
Today I was visiting Mr. Laube again and asked him some questions regarding bodywork and bottom panel. The support frames could have been connected with the bodywork as follows : The first frame was connected as Fred suggested and you can see on my scetch on page 59. The second one for the steering column was firmly connected with the main frame and was riveted under the fairing .It could have been not only a frame but a sheet tooo. The third one is a combination of two frames one supports the tank , the other one the bodywork . It must have been riveted under the seat´s fairing and at other spots too. The rivets we can see on the rear of the car have nothing to do with a support frame connection . Regarding the bottom panel Mr. Laube was not sure what we see here , He said ,every brand had their own constructions and it looks like the bottom sheet was strenghtened by riveted sheets , similar my scetch.He also said at the front of this panel there could have been pinnacle -like cut outs like Nick suggested. I also asked him about a second panel above the bottom sheet . He said , in his opinion there was no second panel for weight reasons . The seat was mounted on struts and only a small panel existed where the driver could put his heels on. Many greetings ! Hannes
so this will be my first 1/24 car kit, done a few 1/12 bikes and of course lots of gundam and scifi stuff. the theme will be gundam, neo zeon, sazabi with the decals. so opened the kit today and really surprised how small it is, i think its due to not openning up a 1/24 car kit since i was a child. oh well it is what it is, ive also got the hobby design liberty walk upgrade kit and extra wheels and extra tyres. the decals are hologram and il just use a few of them. ive seen some photos of the finished kit and isnt as slammed as id like so may try and mock up and see if i can get it really low. heres the pics.
The fit at the front wasn't great. Because I had prepainted the upper and lower parts of the body shell, that precluded using filler and sanding. What I did instead was apply a number of layers of white PVA glue to the gap. After each application I swiped the excess away with a moist finer. I then waited for each application to dry and applied a second and then a third. By then most of the gap had gone. I then carefully oversprayed the fixed joint. It's not perfect but it's a lot better than it was. Next time I build one of these AIrfix 1/32 I'll be more prepared for such issues. Here's a better picture of the model taken at my local club meeting a couple of weeks ago.
On that question, I think we can say one more time that the missing element for us now is mainly a cockpit view. Were there reinforcements, tubes, connectors, rivets? If only my travel to Torino could bring some replies on these questions, I would not regret the travel... Personally, I had to make reinforcements after having cut my cockpit to decrease its lenght. I have added rivets on these reinforcement strips. I like it like that, but of course, we don't know how it was really... About tubes running over the Delage floor, I would be tempted to add some, but without certainty, I hesitate...
Dear Robin, I come back on your radiator. I must say I was surprised seeing you used the Italeri parts 130 and 131D. In my mind, the Aber mesh replaced them. You used both, just reducing the thickness of the radiators, and the result is great. I will follow your topic. Just a question: now, you have to close the gaps between 132 and 133D. Wouldn't it be better to assemble them before, to avoid this problem?
Shame Tamiya went down the 1/20 road instead of continuing what had gone before in 1/24! I have a few 1/24 F1s, mostly in white metal. Only Casadio and Bellini went the the 1/20 route in the '70s and they were expensive and "quaint".
Dr. Fiat replied to larchiefeng's topic in Work In Progress - VehiclesAh yes, gotcha. My mistake. Can I have yours? LOL.
larchiefeng replied to larchiefeng's topic in Work In Progress - VehiclesDarin, those nuts and bolts were part of the transkit itself. I'm still waiting for the shock pistons (watch band pins) and a couple of replacement white metal parts. I can work around those for a while but, sorry to hear that you're still waiting. Either I or Rich will take some pictures of the entire transkit so you all can see just what we're working with here.
larchiefeng replied to larchiefeng's topic in Work In Progress - VehiclesI have the both the upper and lower control arms drilled out, painted and ready to go for the new bolts. I have the brass mounting plates soldered together and ready to be mounted on the frame. But, first I have to remove the kit mounting points for the arms. This is going to require some surgery on the frame in order to create the spots for the brass plates to mount. I'm going to do this on one side only to start so, I can use the stock mounts as a reference to make sure of the correct positioning. To start the first picture shows the side that I'm cutting off first. Here is a head on shot to show the before and after, this is the before The after with the cut made The side view of what I cut off. I'm not sure just how much more if anything else needs to be removed. Mocking up the brass plates for fit A little better view The paint is drying on the control arms so, I won't add the bolts until tomorrow. There are a couple of other brass plates that need to be added at the top where the clips are. Once I get the position figured out and these two plates more permanently mounted I can add the arms, shock and spindle on this side and repeat on the other side. Then, the next big soldering project will be the brake rotors which are going to be tricky. I spent a whole day just thinking about how to make a jig just, to hold the rotor pieces all together so I can solder it. When I get there you'll see what I'm talking about with the way it's assembled.
Dr. Fiat replied to larchiefeng's topic in Work In Progress - VehiclesAwesome progress!! I see you received your nuts and bolts from Autograph- I have not received mine since December, the first shipment was lost somewhere. Autograph has been great about communication, but here we are almost in April, and no nuts and bolts. And they have my money. Work has totally stopped on my transkit for the Aventador, as I need these bolts. Sorry, I just had to vent a little. Your build is gorgeous Larchiefeng!!! Darin
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