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I agree with you, Robin, and this shows the limit of measures... I made a 5 mm diameter piece with plastic card and a die. Imho, it is the good size. I will try to find a rubber gasket, as I said above.
Hi Roger, Thanks for your kind comments. It's interesting to note that the 288 & 308 aren't dissimilar in size. I guess that the 308 was the base platform for the 288. They look so similar as well. My major concern with the 288 is that I have read builds on other forums that the rear wheels tend to stick out past the wheel-arches. Only time will tell... All the best, Alan.
Borez replied to Borez's topic in Work In Progress - VehiclesNice, I'm a long way from that stage yet though.
I wanted to show you my altered bodywork without seat fairing / seat . I´m content now with it´s basic shape and dimensions Of course besides the detailling minor alterings are still possible . Unfortunately I will have to dissemble my frame / bottom panel construction again , adapt the width and do the necessary elongations and alterings regarding the frame rails. Many greetings ! Hannes
Best let Nick/Hannes/Roy take a look before you start, because I think this photo is among the most distorted photo's we have. I'm terrible with maths, but I have a 6mm tube and when I looked at it...it scared me! It looks huge! I'll be surprised when that's right. I have no mathematical proof, but 6mm looks stange and wrong imho.
Thierry242 replied to Borez's topic in Work In Progress - Vehiclesi have added some pictures with the wheels on https://www.dropbox.com/sh/l26lhqfo0sc1mth/AABq5b6-3Fkh3ak_QAK44VI2a?dl=0
Robin, I made a measure to check the ring diameter. I get 7,6 mm! I think it is a bit too much, but 4 mm is imho much too small, and even 5 mm is probably a bit too. Finally, I would go for 6 mm, which is a compromise / my measure. For this measure, I used photo 12, on which we have the grille just in front. You can do your own measure, and give me the result you get. But let's agree to say we don't have 6 mm in height, because the ring eats a part of the low grille frame...
Not found in my scrap box, but maybe I have an idea: a 5 mm diameter rubber gasket, (Robin, you talked about 3 mm but the kit's one, too small, is ever 3,44 mm). This gasket should be around 1 mm thick. This should not be too difficult to find, I suppose...
Hi Roger, Than you for your kind and encouraging comments. I must admit that when I restarted this kit back in 2015, I didn't think that it would take quite this long! Still, I think that the end is in sight for this one. These old Revell kits were actually very good. I remember the Douglas 'stiletto' aircraft kit that I built way back in the 60's. That was an easy to build kit even for a 10 year old, and if I recall, the fit was good. All the best, Alan.
ah...ok. You can still sand the edge with 600 or 800 sandpaper before you cut the tube to the desired lenght...I think. Or...paint the edge a few times with gloss enemal paint...this gives a rounded edge also.
Robin, I think you didn't understand what I meant, talking about "round shape". I think about the edges of the ring, not about the ring itself. Look at the ring on, fe, photo 20. You will see that the shape is not flat. If I cut a pice of brass tube, it will be difficult to grind the edges on a so small part to get this "edge round shape". Hope it sounds clear... To the limit, I would prefer a stretched plastic technique, and that's probably what I will use if I don't find what I want in my "scrap box"
Olivier, It's really easy to cut a piece of brass tube without messing up it's round shape. The magic word is..."sliding tube"...ok, that's 2 words. When you use 3mm tube with a 2mm tube inside...it will hold it's shape! Best tool to cut it off...a small grinding disk (silicon carbide) for Proxxon or Dremel. With this tool you can carefully grind through the tube...file and sand to get a smooth edge. I used this tool and technique to make the front leaf spring axle...including the cranck hole on it. It takes very little practise...use low speed and very little pressure, work underneath a magnifying lamp for accuracy. I'm not the most handy guy, but this woked for me! (I tried a saw first, but that was a disaster.) @NickD So true Nick, Nice to see how we all find different parts of the build "important" to focus on and we all do it slightly different...with a slightly different result. No 806 model will ever be the same. We all make it with extra love here..and less of it there. Not to mention...the personal touch you'll see on all models. I've seen a lot of finished 806 builds by now...and they're all different. Not a single one build straight out of the box without any changes. Some more, some less. This "806 club" goes a little further perhaps, but the same applies here...and that's nice. Robin
Dear Codger, Great to read about your health improving finally ! Your and our prayers - many of us here - have been answered and "your Rolls is waiting Sir!". by the way, what you wrote here above, to me at least, is a beautiful formulation of wisdom applicable to life and not only to our beloved occupation. So please know that your posts are greatly anticipated and so please grace these forums with more of the same my friend. dear Codger, winter is behind and spring is ahead ! Sam
Come-back to my grille. The photo 1 is to show a blade holder very useful here, because it is magnet tipped. You can easily catch the very thin steel rod on your workbench. All what can make you work on the grille easier is good to take... You must take care - through others! - to the good horizontality of your steel rods. The curve you give to each one of them (try to give the same curve, not easy...) can affect this horizontality. I don't say that to discourage you but it is true that the curve does not help. This grille must be done in calm and focus. P.S: 1) I cemented my 30th rod, and the lenght from the up is 26,5 mm, what means that I should be nearly OK for the number of rods at the end, around 51 ones. 2) Of course, I will decenter the ring for the crank
159. And then suddenly there is a twist of thoughts that finally effectuates result. As always, it is very simple... looking in hindsight. The mill's drive belt was detached. 160. Manual control!161. This is the very simple procedure: Manual rotation ensures that the cutting action of the thin steel onto the aluminium is kept to a minimum. 162. I think I'm finally happy with this result. For the purpose of engine turning on curves I'll turn off a separate 'swirl tool' on the lathe. The result is seen on the right hand side of the photo. To the left: a less fortunate plot 'o' swirls. 163. To see what the effect will be like on the engine part, and to compare (size-wise) to a spark plug: I'm relieved to have finally found a functional method.
WOW! Oh no! You are right about the wipers! How could I!!??? $@#%&§! When you say it I can remember having a thought about the direction of the wipers, BUT that blew just out of my brain at that point 5 seconds after! I was not at my building table then, but at the tram, traveling home from work! I did never think of that later! Not even when I checked if the wiper engine was on the right or left side. (I could not remember... I sold my Mini in 2005). Of course the kit did only contain the attached wipers, but there would be an easy job to make some going the other way. I had a plan of making them black out on the "rubber holders", but I used both colors. I had some old "silver wipers" and replaced the rubber with some new. I had to be careful when doing this, I could have get some fatigue failure in the metal. So some times I just used the "modern" black. I can remember the wiper engine was the same for RHD and LHD -wipers. It was not the modern wiper engine with "automatic parking" of the wiper. (I can remember my father told me the new Volvo he bought in 1972 had automatic parking of the wipers!) Oh no... I looked so much at the pictures and did not discover the wipers! OK! Now I got a story for my failure! May be I replace them. The holes are the same! 8-D 8-)
Just a small update. When I decided that I wanted ignition leads on the engine, I first realised that there was nowhere, no distributor for leads to go to, so I first fabricated the distributors for the leads to go in. OK, having done that, I then thought, there should be a coil so that the distributors didn't look a bit false. So, I fabricated a pair of ignition coils (No pictures of them on their own...). These were made out of some styrene tube with a 30 thou rod through the centre. Then I pushed over the end of the 30 thou rod a piece of insulation of one of the wires of a USB cable. This meant that I had a receptacle for where the lead could go. I then attached the coils to the rear firewall and then pushed the ends of the leads into the cable insulation. That's a lot of words where a simple picture will make more sense, so: It's not the sharpest image, but due to the lack of light and the fact that I couldn't be bothered to get out my tripod, the shutter speed was about 1/12 of a second. That means shake if hand held... Anyway, you can see the two coils attached to the firewall, and the HT leads coming from them to the distributors. I know that is not absolutely accurate. I'm not even sure where the coil (or coils) would be placed, but the firewall looked like a likely place. Anyway, that's where I have put them and it does busy up the engine compartment a little. Still quite a way to go before completion. Thanks for looking, Alan.
@Codger I am not that positive about the engine turn work. What you see is 2mm. swirls whereas they should be 1mm. That is a very difficult thing to do, or it is for me. That small a diameter will almost always transform the turning bit into a drill bit. But there is also another problem. 155. After twenty-four hours the Alutight has darkened. Partly (at its weakest border) it has loosened as well. I will test whether the discoloring can be prevented by using a layer of lacquer. 156. Here the difference between the darkened piece (to the left) and the piece as it was freshly filed and sanded (to the right). I'm already thinking of different solutions, as discussed on the first page of this thread. 157. After having attempted numerous methods to try turning the 1mm. diameter swirls, today I found a non-ideal but possibly acceptable solution: a Dremel engraving bit. I'll keep trying and looking for a better method, but this is a start and an emergency solution. Not ideal, but I'm running out of ideas... 158. There's also good news: the independent milling machine table has arrived and was installed. To those who'd like to know the disadvantages of a two-in-one lathe/milling machine, please let me know and I'll share my thoughts. Total building time: 45h. Total measurement study: 29h.
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