Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

Black Knight

Gold Member
  • Content count

    3,676
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

4,302 Excellent

About Black Knight

  • Rank
    slightly eccentric

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Donaghadee, N'orn I'rn

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Black Knight

    Fiat 806: research and scratchbuilds

    Various reasons for quick draining of the tank 1/ Oil then wasn't as pure as it is now. Back then some mild sludgy oil will form at the bottom of the tank. You should see the oil-ways inside a vintage engine which was just run on a 30 grade oil - they are nearly fully blocked up with the hardened sludge. After so many years the oil-ways can only be cleared by drilling the sludge out. A modern 30 oil has a detergent in it to prevent any sludge forming and if any does it doesn't stay in the oil-ways too much. All modern oils have detergent agents in them 2/ Also; different viscosity grades to be used according to the time of year or where the race is; at or near sea level the oil heats up quicker, at higher levels it heats up slower, so maybe a 50 oil at Monaco, a 30 at Nurburgring 3/ The races the 806 was to compete in lasted a long time. The car might start with a 30 oil in the morning and change to a 50 later at a pit stop, when the day was much warmer
  2. Black Knight

    Fiat 806: research and scratchbuilds

    The n shaped tubes are for the release of air pressure vacuum caused by a/ hot oil and b/ the lowering of the oil level The brass cap has a small hole in it to allow air through, inside the cap is a rubber or leather washer aligned so that air can get in but oil cannot get out. The main filler cap is the big one on the left of Hannes' photo The small cap next to the n tubes might be for a dip stick to check oil level Cooling of engine oil was not necessary. There were only a few single grade heavy viscosity oils Oil grades - for your modern car it might say on the can 10W/30. That means the viscosity is light; 10 in Winter or cold areas, but heavier; 30 in summer or in warmer areas However, in our period, there were only single grade oils; 30, 40, 50 and 60 are typical As oil heats up its viscosity gets less, it gets 'thinner' in common terms. As it heats up and gets less viscous its pressure decreases, making it easier to send around the engine Two questions; a/ is there sign of an oil pump on the engine? b/ how deep is the engine sump? There are four basic engine oiling systems 1. totally manual - the driver has to pump oil onto the moving parts - totally old fashioned and mostly done away with by 1928 2. sump and spray; the oil is kept in the sump, as the crankshaft and connecting rods rotate in the oil they splash the oil around the engine insides and it gets carried to parts such as the valves and cylinder bores 3. sump and pump; the oil is kept in the sump and a pump operated by the engine pumps the oil around the engine to the parts which need it 4. reservoir and pressure; the oil is kept in a separate reservoir tank and the oil is distributed around the engine by either pump or hot oil pressure Within these 4 are 2 sub-categories a/ total loss; which means - after the oil gets to the engine parts it vaporizes or drips off the engine, [and car!] or burnt out through the exhaust. This uses a lot of oil but its always clean, there is no need for a filter in the system. Number 1 is this always. Numbers 2, 3 & 4 can be this system b/ scavenger; this is used in your modern car. The used oil drips and runs back into the sump, usually after going through a filter of some sort. Number 1 can never be this. Number 2 and 3 can be this and Number 4 can be this but not usually. Looking at the layout of 806 I think the engine oil system is 4-a My Austin 7 has a race prepared engine. It is 3-b. Standard Austin 7 engines are 2-b As for hot oil. It is not necessary to cool the oil and it is often wanted that the thick oil gets hot. I use 30 grade oil in my engine, At start up and until the engine starts to get hot the oil pressure starts at 50 lbs [pounds per square inch]. At proper engine running temperature of 88 degrees the oil pressure varies between 5 and 10 lbs, usually around 5 to 6 lbs, which means that the thick oil has thinned and is getting around the engine easier. If the oil remained at 30 viscosity the pump would have a harder time getting the oil through the special oil-ways in the engine. On a racing car you do not need or want oil that is like the olive oil you put on your salad; you want it almost vaporizing so it can be a 'mist' around the engine parts
  3. Black Knight

    Good photo of WWI ambulance

    Its a nice photo The RODEN kit is a Vauxhall D-Type I think the one in the photo is a Crossle
  4. Black Knight

    Spot of the Day Part 2

    A nicely customised A40 van
  5. Black Knight

    RAF Emergency Set

    Basically you can do what you want with the figures as Airfix got these vehicles wrong. The Fire Tender is on the wrong chassis make and red wasn't used on RAF Fire Tenders until the 1950s, so its basically a 1950s vehicle The RAF only had a few of the Austin K2 ambulance on establishment, from D-Day onwards, supplied from Army stocks, so their colour scheme would be army green & black 'mickey mouse' scheme or post-WW2 dark RAF Blue Thus; you can do whatever you wish with the vehicles and figures PS; I think, I believe, the interior of the ambulances was that mysterious 'eau de nil' - a very pale washed out greeny-white. It was used on building interior walls too.
  6. Black Knight

    Fiat 806: research and scratchbuilds

    I've lost track of things. Other than the word of one person is there evidence of a 'second' seat? The 806 was a track racing car; only one seat was required by FIA rules. A second seat for a riding mechanic was only required for cars racing in Tourist Trophy and open road races My 1930 Austin is built to 1926 and later TT rules; two seats [and other details] Austin built a special Austin 7 called the Brooklands Special just for track racing; it is a single seat car
  7. Black Knight

    Grump Britain.

    No; you specify just where and when the case happened; management of said company will pick it up and get the guilty person. Why should it pillory anyone not involved? Rather the opposite; it will get the support of the workers doing it right as they don't want that sort of action by someone in their company as it does reflect on them Whether its the right way to go about things or not - its the 21st century way, and it does work quicker than phone calls and letters to HQ management and its less hassle
  8. Black Knight

    Grump Britain.

    The 21st century way is to post it on twitter etcetera, naming the company. Quicker results, wider 'support' against said company; they don't like it, Mr Mainwaring, they don't like it
  9. Black Knight

    Streaky gloss paint, humbrol red and yellow

    If you are now going to use a spray can of Humbrol 69; it'll cover best over a white primer or a matt yellow, or even an orange. It will take a lot of coats to cover grey primer. For a matt yellow primer in a spray can - Humbrol 24 Trainer Yellow. 'Mist' the coats on - that is; just a light spraying to get a wee bit of colour on, let that dry for a bit, that allows the carrier solvent to evaporate off - also known as 'flash off'. Then spray a second coat, a bit heavier, let dry and flash off, then a third coat. The third coat should be getting you some gloss, but you'll need a fourth and maybe even a fifth coat If you lay on the paint too thick at the start the solvent will attack the paint job and you'll have to scrub it all off again Warm the spray can by standing it a pot of very warm - nearly hot - water; that'll help mix the paint and keep the pressure up inside the can
  10. Black Knight

    Cessna O-2/Skymaster 1/72nd scale decal questions...

    For weapons try one of the Hasegawa Weapons sets Set 1 has FFAR pods
  11. Black Knight

    Smart or dumb ?

    Recently I had a hospital appointment. I decided to use the local bus service as parking at the hospital is congested From leaving my door to walking into the hospital; by bus took 75 minutes and due to bus times I was 35 minutes before my appointment =110 minutes Today I took my car. Same route, door to door, and including 10 minutes wait for a parking space; 32 minutes, plus 10 for being appointment early = 42 minutes However; if I had used the bus to go today I could not get home until Monday morning as there is no bus after my appointment time, nor over the weekend, not until Monday morning at 09.45 PS: the hospital is approx 11 miles from my abode
  12. Black Knight

    Savoia Marchetti SM.79 sparviero bomb bay

    The reason why the bombs were put in nose upwards was because the bombardier had to manually arm the fuze before their release, unlike RAF bombs which had an air-flow operated arming mechanism. afaik the German bombs were armed by ground crew after loading into the aircraft
  13. Black Knight

    Hornby secures £18m lifeline

    "Hornby secures £18m lifeline" Did they take out Payment Protection Insurance too?
  14. Black Knight

    Streaky gloss paint, humbrol red and yellow

    Surgical is just purer than meths. for your job meths will do rightly
  15. Black Knight

    Streaky gloss paint, humbrol red and yellow

    As the paint is fresh, [I presume it is] its still not fully hardened [as opposed to dry - not the same thing] I reckon; lots of clean kitchen paper towel, your meths and your old tooth brush should be capable of removing it. oh, and cotton buds are useful too Revell does a model friendly paint remover. B & Q does a plastic friendly paint remover as does Wilco [name?]
×