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Roy vd M.

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About Roy vd M.

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  1. I can see where they're coming from though. Lovely improvement.
  2. @Graeme Studying a video of the engine being cranked up it shows that at any given time at least three springs are decompressed and a maximum of one is compressed. Therefore, Miniart's representation is wrong (=two springs would be compressed on both sides of the engine simultaneously, so a total of four, whereas that should be a total of two out of eight). Beside that, as you can see on the above video, the positions of springs / bolts are wrong, as I described before in my post as quoted by you.
  3. Looks like I need to follow this Great progress so far Wayne!
  4. Looks great @Torbjörn Hanö, how did you paint / make the b2273 sheet on the bonnet? First black paint, then sanding? And upper railing = copper / brass wire? Or did you use the kit part?
  5. Really like what you did to that engine. Nice smooth body too.
  6. Regarding Delage project: I'm awaiting some final answers as regards true tyre size. Drawing of the wheels is wrong so I'll have to draw again. Not only tyres but also the wheels, which are incorrect even on the #1 chassis. Should be 70 spokes, current wheels are 60 spokes. Some exciting research results, will post in due time. Regarding the inlet slots... not sure which method I suggested. If they are only slots (rather than louvres), you could photo etch them; but it's a lot of work for a little part. However you could consider it as an educational exercise. Never too old to learn new techniques, right? 2D drawing of the part would be very easy in Qcad for example.
  7. Hopefully this is clear enough. It's 3 pages A4 so I have to photograph it. If a better version is required I'll photograph it tomorrow in daylight.
  8. Good to see you back on this monster project Olivier. Recent corrections look very promising.
  9. Looks amazing Harvey. Blue/black question also regards the Delage. That car too had definitely black wheels in 1927.
  10. Thanks for all the likes gents! Before making the tyre colour choice I had searched for photographs and videos of the time and although I have found some evidence that some buses were fitted with slightly lighter grey tyres, most of what I saw resembled dark grey c.q. black. In the thread you refer to (thank you for that, interesting read), Black Knight -whose opinion I respect- says this: Hard rubber solid tyres were vulcanised to the wheel rim and could range from a dark grey to black. In the referenced thread, Das Abteilung says: Period photos suggest from colour contrast that the majority of pneumatic tyres in WW1 were still grey, but that solid tyres were black. Understandable as the carbon black increased the tensile strength 10-12 times, a considerable advantage for solid tyres. The tyres on the LGOC B-type bus were hard rubber solid tyres, so anything between dark grey to black should suit it. Also the new tyres (modern restauration) are of dark grey-blackish colour. So I'm quite confident that the tyres are of approximately time period-correct colour. Here's a video of London traffic in 1914 to 1918. Lots of LGOC buses in view all the time, the city had around 2500 of them buzzing around. There are motorcars with white tyres which clearly differ from the LGOC tyres. Some LGOC's seem to have different coloured rear tyres (a tad lighter grey) but most of them appear to have dark grey tyres. Well you can safely use micro saws (for example sold through Radubstore.com), it just takes a bit longer... but you'll have a bigger chance of success! Really a modeller who builds Miniart kits can't realistically live without micro saws I think. Or they can, just in the way they can do without cutting mat. Or acrylic paint. Or an airbrush compressor (just use an inflated rubber tyre). So I'd invest in a few of those if you don't have them already. Lovely model by the way, that D7, I also have the one with blade in my stash. Not sure if I'll ever build it though...
  11. Thanks guys for your kind replies! @Biggu I can't say the plastic is very easily processed. The thinnest / longest parts are cut using a micro saw. Most other parts can be used using a high quality sprue cutter such as the one referred to by @Torbjörn Hanö. Regular sprue cutters will destroy the parts. Because I prefer the kit parts to be ultra smooth (my fingernails act as judges), after cutting I file them and only then do I sand them. The thin long parts such as linkages can be more easily replaced by copper or brass wire. If you're not after perfection in smoothness, things go much easier and faster. I'll never forget spending one hour (=one hour!) cleaning one extremely delicate part. I understand your frustration. 108. Weathering still required on radiator and wheels. Spent time: 78H.
  12. Took me about a month to go through all pages and posts of the original thread. The fact that I did, while having no plans to build this Pocher model, says it all. I learned a lot going through it. Even if you used 5% of its knowhow it’d be worthwhile. Remember, it’s there and free to behold. Other sites would charge you $ for similar or lesser info. That being said, you’ve made a decent start at this equally complex and rewarding kit.
  13. Although I would also rather see the model painted, Harvey had mentioned before he won’t paint the model, inspired by the factory photographs of a yet unpainted car.
  14. Except that, as I know see, I non-intentionally and erroneously included you within ‘us’, but I’m sure you’ll remember how deeply I admire your amazing work on the Rolls Royce.
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