Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

Roy vd M.

Gold Member
  • Content Count

    1,265
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2,372 Excellent

4 Followers

About Roy vd M.

  • Rank
    Very Obsessed Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Netherlands

Recent Profile Visitors

2,123 profile views
  1. Hi Thom, glad to have a reply to my thread, welcome and hope you enjoy reading through it Yes in 1/48 this would be a great subject. It's a beautifully lined plane, that's for sure. Some thinning work...
  2. Thanks for the likes gents. 25. After sanding the primer and painting the cockpit (Tamiya XF71) I added dirt and shadows using three oil paints. The coloured photo etch parts now have almost the same tone as the rest of the interior. Left: dirty part; right: clean part. 26. When I saw the photo I decided to take off some of the dirt. Easy with oil paints. Here the little screen before and after removal of the final masking sticker. 28. Here the belts and levers in situ. Eduard provided for twice the required amount of levers, in case tweezers would launch some. Zoomed (see paragraph 31): 29. Instrument panel in place, body halves joined. 31. By the way, all photos in this topic can be zoomed in. Click on them three times. For example the last photo then looks like this: 33. Wire harness is visible, when shining on it with a lamp. This makes for unnatural colours on this photo (for example the part left front is bare metal) but well you get the idea. Spent time: 17,5 hours
  3. Thanks for the likes fellows. 15. The interior is ready to be washed, safe some belts, the instruments and some minor scratch work. 1. Panels with instruments for the pilot. 2. Instrument panel to the right consists of four photo etched metal parts. The part alongside the instrument panel is detached (attachment point was almost absent). 3. Belts for the pilot. Both other sets I'll leave for later, as I don't feel like bending them now 4. This little thing remains from the instrument panel part included in the kit. It's what photo etch part 2. will be attached to. 5. Belt for the rear seat. 16. I wanted to get an impression of how well all interior detail would be visible with the glassworks in place. After a first dryfit session I dipped the three transparent parts into QuickShine. Here it shows what's necessary: glass jar to pour QuickShine into; some tape to hang the parts to dry; and a piece of absorbing paper to fetch that last drop of QuickShine. 17. Result before and after. Before: and after the dip: 20. I'll only add a little bit of detail. Like the back of this instrument panel, which will be visible (you'd have to peek though) and would otherwise remain non-detailed. Used stuff: piece of plasticard, some pieces of Evergreen tube and some copper and lead wire. These are converted into wire harnesses by simply folding them a few times. 21. An hour and a half of work... tried to work quicker but failed 22. Compared to the front: These parts will be eventually glued together. 23. Four subassemblies, degreased, holes drilled, primed. 24. Fifty-five Eduard stickers... glad I got this piece of aftermarket aid! Masking fluid (or tape) yet has to be added on the insect-like 'glass eyes' that remain. In case I'll use Humbrol Maskol I'll apply it just before painting the canopies, because I'll try to leave the fluid on for a maximum of a few days (three at the most), to prevent the Maskol from damaging the transparant parts. Six stickers remain, for the three wheels. Very attentive of Eduard! Spent time: 14,5 hours.
  4. 1. Folding the Eduard seatbelts prior to painting. 2. The result shown in the next image will prove to be wrong.. 3. If you're going to build this kit, di purchase the Eduard masking set. Six stickers for this part alone... 4. No jury awards for this kit, as the bomb bay will be shut. I thought there's already plenty of model planes with open bonnets / inspection covers / bay doors / gear doors etc. I'll instead focus on the beautiful lining of this plane. 5. The pre-painted photo etch pieces have an unnatural shine to them. This will be corrected later using oil paint. 6. Coming back to #3, here are two of the six stickers in situ. 7. Some are not large. 8. All six in place.. I thought. 9. But blessed be macro photography! I changed my mind when I saw the above picture and corrected the position of one sticker. 10. As mentioned before, the 'side panels' are wrong as they interfere with the 'wing tabs' which will go here: 11. Dryfitting, marking and cutting with Xuron through the brass. 12. On the next photo the brass is cut to shape. 13. Mind the little desktop though, designed by Yokosuka engineers to enable pilots to solve sudokus and draw manga figures during calm flights. Next photo shows that the desktop straight versus the pilot's instruments as well as at the right height. 14. Eduard put this wrong in their instructions though. Photo hereunder shows (1) the actual situation; (2) how Eduard thinks it should be; (2) how I think it should be implemented into the kit (3). Some changes needed to be made.
  5. 336. Left side of the engine is done, drawing-wise. I'll just scratchbuild the exhaust manifold without drawing. Not sure how far I can go detailing this... the length of the engine block is, in 1/72-scale, less than 1,5cm. Even if I'll detail as far as I went on the carburettor of my VW Beetle... ... then still I won't get all the details right. I'll just see how far I'll get. 337. I also started drawing the right side of the engine. In the screenshot you can also see the better detailed front. 338. Rendered. 340. Air filters installed. Probably this is the last update in awhile, time for a group build Thank you all for following along.
  6. Great topic! My daughter and I built a Honda RA273 Grand Prix car together last summer and autumn. Was fun overall. She has learned how to airbrush, polish et cetera. How old is your daughter? Mine is 7 years, will be 8 in January. The results I see here are absolutely staggering.
  7. 327. The Mac part was designed even less accurately. To compare: (Copyright*https://www.worldwarphotos.info/gallery/germany/wehrmacht_trucks/mercedes-benz/mercedes-lg3000-poland-1939/, educational purposes only, photo will be removed upon first request) 328. Difference in hood hight between Mac and HP parts... 329. Finished (bare plastic) Mac kit looks like this: Compare to real lorry: ICM part (1/35) should be twice the about size in width and height. You be the judge... 333. I started drawing the engine in Fusion 360. I divided it into subassemblies, to use them as basis for Evergreen scratchbuilding.
  8. Given that your original post read 'Go on you'll get there in the end' I'm sure why you took back those words lol 316. Two photo etch parts will be made (both left side) that will be mounted on the radiator. Brass part is finalized here: 317. After a reset of my thoughts by colleague builder Bert Takken I decided to honour his advise and to sculpt the radiator from Evergreen card, after the brass part turned out to not be well-proportioned (due to a broken part of the milling machine)... was ordered but will arrive some time beginning next year). Thickest sheet of Evergreen is 1mm. Because we'll need a 1,27mm. thick radiator piece, I'll have to laminate two pieces of Evergreen card (1mm. and 0,3mm.). 324. After measuring, marking, fitting, cutting, filing and sanding (I'll spare the details) it looks like this. 325. Sanding bit by bit facilitates careful measuring. Downside of using Evergreen card is that it's not as easily sandable as brass, for example. 326. Here you can see the difference between the true size of the radiator scale 1/72 and the resin specimen. Like the wheels, the radiator of the HP kit part is way oversized.
  9. @Robert Jan Scholte v. Mast I must say I'm quite amazed by this kit you refer to and purchased. As far as I'm aware the Sd.Kfz. 384 refuelling tanker was exclusively built for the Mercedes-Benz LG3000. Starting to doubt, I took a look in the Nuts & Bolts #32 about the LG-trucks. There I found a few clues that in fact there never was a Ford tanker like the one depicted. First the development of these LG (rough terrain) trucks... there were only four companies that participated at first (Büssing, Henschel, Krupp and Mannesmann-Mulag. The latter's chassis proved unsatisfactory during the testing period and was withdrawn from the project. Later, Mercedes-Benz joined the project. So, no mention at all of Ford having participated. Second clue is found on page 122: "The (...) aircraft fuel tanker motor vehicle (Kfz. 384) was developed by the Schelmer Eisenwerk Müller & Co. AG. It was manufactured commencing in the mid-1930s, and based exclusively on the Mercedes-Benz LG 3000 chassis. The box art of your kit may have been photo shopped (bonnet does not seem to be in alignment with the tanker). If anyone has proof of this Ford Sd.Kfz 384 having existed I'd be very interested to learn about it. Robert Jan, I'm sharing this to prevent you from initiating a build being under the impression that the vehicle has in fact existed. As a what if-project it's quite appealing. Another possibility, it's real but not a Sd.Kfz 384. Looking at the tanker it's not exactly like the MB one. 285. Small logos on radiator and grille have a 'thickness' of approximately 0,5mm. The letter 'D' has grown a bit, after a tip by a fellow modeller. 290. Bit of chassis beam where the rear wheel suspension will be inserted, was removed. 291a. Photo etching the radiator housing won't work. the shape is very complex. This is the top of the part seen from upfront (!): At the arrow there's a difficult-to-establish folding line. Qcad nor Fusion 360 could aid so I decided to mill this piece. 301. The curvature is the hardest part of the radiator to produce. 309. Here you can see the interesting shape: the drawing is the front of the radiator housing, the brass part the rear. Both will be 'loftedly joined'. 310. Satisfied thus far.
  10. 275. To draw the wording 'DIESEL', multiple guidelines are set... 279. After removal of the unnecessary parts and curving of the letter S (not finalised yet) it looks like this. 280. Test print by the copy shop. I am confident to start the etching process with this. Not everything worked out, as the small Mercedes star proved to be too thin and will be enlarged.
  11. 242. The reason to draw a separate bit of the chassis is shown here: there would be an 'impossible overlap'. 243. But Silenoz advised me to remove part of the front end. It will be almost invisible anyway and can in fact be filled up with solder. The amended drawing: 248. Some other aspects of the drawing needed correcting as well. I decided to etch the leaf springs. They will now be of perfectly equal width (nicer than I'd be able to cut) and will have rounded ends. 256. Now it's time to draw the encircled crossbeam. You can see that the drive axle touches the crossbeam. 257. Therefore we'll need to make a recess at each end of the foldable crossbeam part. 258. As the drive axle isn't horizontal, one recess needs to be higher than the other. 259. Seen from below, as well as in overview. 260. So what does this look like in 2D? Here's the basic drawing. 261. Next, the bottom side of the brass sheet. Everything black will be etched away. 262. Top side of that same piece of brass sheet: As can be seen, there's a large black area around the part, bottom side as well as top side. The etching acid will cut trough the brass from both sides of the brass. This way, the acid will meet in the middle and thus the brass is fully cut through. The fold lines are created as well, but in a different way. On the bottom side, four fold lines are etched, whereas on the top side two fold lines are etched. They don't overlap, so bottom and top of the same piece of etched brass will look different. These fold lines are called 'half etches', because the brass of each of 6 lines is etched only halfway through. Then, the etching process is stopped manually. So those six lines are fold lines, but some are on top while others are below, because the folding direction differs.
  12. @Silenoz Thanks for checking in! I think indeed no kit parts will be used, but I've not completely given up on the tanker body. Well perhaps that's not fair, in fact I have I'm quite certain I'll need your help once more on the soldering, once the photo etch can be joined! By the way that beam you soldered had the wrong height so it had to be redone anyway even if I hadn't prepared that part for photo etching 221. The bonnet (left hand side) is ready. 228. Now one bonnet, one chassis beam and two (identical) crossbeams are ready. The folding lines have been included. Don't mention pixels or distortion on the drawings, printing will be way more accurate. 230. Now the crossbeam for the rear suspension subassembly must be drawn. This is more complex. I'll have to establish what can be made on lathe and/or mill and what should be photo etched. As I'll need dimensions anyway I decided to 3D-draw this in Fusion 360. On this forum I won't go in-depth as to drawing techniques etc. Below you see the end results. For the 3D drawing I use the blueprint from the vintage Mercedes-Benz manual. 238. The suspension of the rear wheels can 'swing'. I have drawn the swing-connector on one side of the assembly. Here's the top view. 239. The rotatable piece is pressed between the two leaf spring pockets. 240. Hereunder you see the rotatable piece (1) which can freely rotate around its arm (2). 241. The arm is fixed to the chassis beam. So much for 3D-drawing of this 'swing'. It won't be printed, I'll just use the old-fashioned milling machine, lathe and photo etch-bowls, to achieve as nice a result as possible and because I enjoy it It seems that I'm finally up-to-date now! This is how things stand right now.
  13. Nice little tutorial, method makes sense, thanks for taking the trouble of illustrating this.
×
×
  • Create New...