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Roy vd M.

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About Roy vd M.

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  1. Hi Jaime, Good to see you're still around this forum too Unfortunate to hear your build is on hold, but that's more often than not the case in modelling. I encounter exactly the same 'problem'... doesn't really feel like a problem though, it just feels nice doing what I want at any given moment and I think many modellers think like that. 313. The flap is supported by a bit of toilet paper drained in brown Gator Glue. It will expand a bit when the glue dries. 314. Fresh green Zap... let's use it to fill. Meanwhile the flap is drying and is taped down. 315. All panel lines full of glue. 316. Sanding until a thin grey layer of paint remains. 317. Next, bur bit on the multitool. This bur bit points to a piece of remaining glue (=light brown). It's a matter of removing that. 318. In the corners I'll use a pointier bit. 319. Levelling using sanding paper (I first use grit 600). 320. After sanding (sanding stick and -paper) it's smooth soon. The underside of the wings has now been completely filled and smoothed. Total spent time: 107 hours
  2. That’s really an admirable achievement, congratulations on this build.
  3. 303. I bought Tasman and Squadron canopy vacuforms. 304. This is what they look like ('eigen vacuform' means my own vacuformed piece). 306. The Squadron set turned out to be too thick whereas the Tasman looks beautiful! So the Tasman it is. 307. Here the difference between Tasman's (above) and mine (below). 309. Tasman canopy looks great in situ! 310. But looking at that picture I noticed two long leads... doesn't look right! So I corrected that. 312. New flap in place + box of parts sorted! Total spent time: 105,5 hours
  4. It's not a lack of interest from her, rather I noticed (mainly Youtube statistics) that almost nobody from abroad is watching these vlogs. Little point in subtitling them then.. No, she's quite motivated and her airbrushing skills will probably soon surpass mine. The Honda now is white (second layer of white paint, one more to go). By the way, painting order is inspired on your step plan as set out in the Rolls Royce topic! Still glad I got to study all that before Photobucket went ehm... how to put it mildly... well, before it went.
  5. I have stopped adding subtitles to these videos as there doesn't seem to be too much interest. No hard feelings, some things work and some things don't. Those who are curious how my daughter is doing regarding this project, I'd recommend to subscribe to my channel to receive notifications. Here the latest video, #16 (for #14 and #15, see the channel). I might give a status update at one point in time, if there's substantial progress.
  6. Beautiful layer of paint on one of the most beautifully designed bombers in aviation history!
  7. Some notes about these wheels and about Alclad chrome in general... - While you realistically, with an OOB-project such as this, can't help the spokes being a bit thicker than they would be IRL, I think you could upgrade the look of the innermost part of the wheel assembly (=the 'disk' with 14 raised spokes). Heller made them resemble the drum brakes caps. To make it look as real as possible I'd definitely paint that part, except its spokes, in a different colour, for example brown or black; best to check references. It shouldn't be that hard to paint between the spokes, I'd try what the armour modellers call a pinwash. Online I did see some of these cars with similarly looking paint tone, but I saw another that has a drum brake covered in the same colour as the car body. That look really neat to my eyes. - The colour of the spokes looks great to me, mostly as it's not the mirrory chrome finish you're looking for (and you shouldn't). - However, if you're going for that chrome look on other parts of the model, such as bumpers or so, I'd recommend you to not use the Alclad gloss black paint. Tried that 5 years ago or so and it was almost unmanagable on the airbrush, very sticky and it was very difficult to clean the airbrush afterward. Disastrous experience However I know more people complained about it and I can imagine Alclad has changed the formula since then. Simply because I'm not sure, and certainly if you have that paint and encounter difficulties, I'd recommend trying another grand such as Tamiya. The paint has to be glossy and perfect, as every particle of dust can be eventually seen. If you can't find a good glossy black paint, you could simply apply matt black covered with glossy varnish. - After hardening of the black paint (keep it in a dust-free environment, it could be sticky for awhile), it's a matter of spraying the thinnest of layers of chrome. Any dust bits here cannot be sanded away. Try to apply two ultra thin layers. If it still looks black (=not chrome) to you, keep it in the sunlight and check after blinking your eyes. Sometimes the change into chrome look doesn't become clear at first glance, as this change is very subtle. To answer Jeroen's question, the paint can be sprayed undiluted. If after two layers a third one is needed, spray again but VERY thin. Here, temptation is severe to paint a little bit too much, because all of this trouble seems to be leading you anywhere... that's the trap! Just spray one more ultra thin layer and examine it, preferably in sunlight. If any more is necessary, add a fourth layer, again thinnest as can be. At one point you'll see the glorious chromy shine come through. I doubt a fifth layer should be necessary. Imagine those four layers combined to be be as thick as one 'normal' layer of airbrush paint. - Let it dry and harden, then paint one or two thin layers of the special Alclad varnish for use after chrome. If not using this, you'll run the risk of making the beautiful chrome shine disappear. If not varnishing at all, touching it (handling or cleaning the car, for example) could damage the chrome. Hope this helps
  8. Its important to use a perfectst smooth black gloss basis and then to airbrush the thinnest of layers of chrome.
  9. Thanks Ian for your reaction, I wondered if anyone would notice (and/or, in British, mind) the gap Yeah the panel lines are quite wide. Love the Heinkel 111 for its beautiful aesthetics, still have to have that finished in 1/32 but that project is a bit difficult. I like the Messerschmitt 110 too, if I'm correct I have an old Matchbox kit somewhere in my (small) stack. Filling and filing / grinding has proved not to be that difficult using super glue. I do hope the effect with pencil lines will be more convincing than the filled up ditches.
  10. 275. After vacuforming the glazing. 276. Forum meetings don't always end well for models, especially if not adequately boxed. 278. Quite the error on my account... top end of the wall wasn't sanded thin toward the front, as you can see in the following picture. It's no artillery armour!! 279. 'Peeling' the plastic using a scalpel. Apologies for the portrait-style video. 280. Starboard side done: 281. Almost ready. 282. The landing gear provided by Airfix is a very tight fit. Some sanding is in order. 283. Quite a bit was removed. 284. After glueing the broken parts back together (choosing the best out of two kits), they are merrily back in place. Much easier and quicker than soldering. 285. Cleaning a nacelle's 'panel lines'. 286. Some parts are more difficult to reach while sanding. 287. I wrongly chose to fill this flap-end with superglue. Will have to remove that. 293. The panel lines as designed by Airfix are way too wide (0,3mm. which would equal 21,6 mm. in real life). 294. This is a picture of real life panel lines on a similar plane, produced approximately simultaneously... the gaps are almost non-absent. (Copyright Heinkel He 111, Walk Around, Ron Mackay, ISBN 978-0-89747-694-2, the whole book is full of nice, high-quality pictures of the whole plane. In case you wish to model the Heinkel 111, be sure to purchase the book; pictures are displayed for educational purposes only and will be deleted upon first request of the copyright holder) 295. Filling is simple: applying a thin layer of super glue. 296. The surplus is removed with the help of a multitool. 297. Then sanding using grid 400. Checking for smoothness can be easily done using a silver marker. 298. I swiftly check for overall filled-upness by applying one stroke of 'silver'. Looks filled to me. 299. This wing is sweating!! It had appeared to me that the wing wasn't glued tightly as it should. A lot of liquid poly did the job. 301. Some testing with pencils of different hardnesses, to later indicate the panel lines. The super glue fills nicely black (if no accelerator is used) so the difference between original panel lines and 2H pencil strokes can be clearly seen in the next photo: 302. Using a very hard pencil (9H) I did some more testing. These new lines are really very thin and I can use a bit more pressure without the line becoming wider. Great! Note that the vertical pencil lines (=vertical on the picture) look white... same pencil though! It provides the lines a bit of a 3D feel, I can appreciate that, saw about the same thing in reference photos. Total spent time: 104 hours.
  11. Astonishingly handsome. Looking at this, I wonder what our friends at Centro Storico would say if they saw the model and compared it to their own.
  12. Everybody is offtopicing my topic by posting photos of model (-kits) (Seriously, no problem obviously, this is THE designated topic to do testing like that... picture come through here by the way, looks good!)
  13. You're perfectly cable of doing so, as you proved a few posts ago! An endless amount of dryfitting etc. is in order, agreed, if you want to pursue perfectness.
  14. I'm just glad this topic is resumed. It's such a wonderful* kit-aftermarket merger, I can only agree with Pascal's reminder here. Work so far looks good, notwithstanding what you consider to be multiple mistakes. Each made mistake counts toward further completion of this masterpiece. (*ly impossibly complex)
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