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malpaso

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About malpaso

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    "Strong Country" Hampshire, UK
  • Interests
    Early aviation, interwar and classic 50's US jets

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  1. Painted up the coloured areas, quite pleased with how it’s come out. At least the paint dries faster than the gloss enamels I used back in the day. Cheers Will
  2. Airframe now painted up in three colours of Vallejo Metal Color - semi-Matt, Dull, and Dark Aluminiums. The latter with some smoke stripes for heated rear fuselage - adds interest even if I’m not sure accurate for F-84Fs. The only disadvantage of this Vallejo Metal Color is that the metal component is extremely fine so I’m now off for a major strip and ultra-super-clean of the airbrush! Cheers Will
  3. On RAF aircraft the rigging is Rafwire, which is effectively one giant turnbuckle, the aerodynamic wire has opposite threads at each end. Twist the wire one way and it tightens, the other way loosens. On the Fury photos you linked you can see the flatness of the wires where they cross, as the opposing wire is viewed on its short face and the others on the width.
  4. According to The Stirling Story, beam guns were to be fitted pending installation of a dorsal turret. Beam guns were Mod 215, from the way its written up this was done at airfields by a Shorts working party. According to the book, this was owing to poor instructions from the client, the fittings to fit beam guns were not done at the factory for many month. As noted above this was all part of realising the original defences werent sufficient.
  5. XF-16 is more aluminium paint (like a silver metallic painted car) rather than stripped bare metal which is what the finish of the real MJ250 was. Except for the rudder and elevators which were painted aluminium (silver) dope as they were fabric. I like XF-16 (whereas some others think the metallic grain is too coarse for model metallic paint finish) but not for bare metal. My experience of Revell 99 is that it's meant more for the silver metallic paint look too, rather than metal. If you can't get to a model shop, it may be worth trying some metallic sprays from a hardware shop? Or even try aluminium adhesive tape.
  6. You could try gently rubbing off the acrylic with alcohol on a cotton bud or similar. Shouldn’t affect the enamel but test first.
  7. Yes, although it’s a day with normal “French” traffic, he’s obviously giving it a bit of welly and has to work a bit, must have been a real handful at racing speeds. I was worried , but needn’t have, about what Mike Hawthorn would sound like as although I was born 5 years after he died, he’s always been the one I think of as the quintessential British racing driver of the day, rather than Stirling. Cheers Will
  8. Hi Allan, For my models, as Desert scheme was a factory paint job, I would assume the stencils would all have been on the plane, to start with anyway. Any patch repairs most likely would cover or ignore stencils. Any non-standard colours are likely to have been painted over the stencils which may not have been reinstated. Remember squadron codes were painted at unit level so the stencils should be under any of these. Cheers Will PS having said that, apart from the famous belly photo of Mk.XII MB885, I struggle to see any stencils on most period photos!
  9. Britain's first F1 champion takes us round Le Mans in a D-Type.
  10. “Paint it Black” - M.Jagger A few defects need smoothing before glossing ready to spray aluminium. It’s Vallejo black PU primer, which was cheap (free) but you get what you pay for and it blurts and has a few lumps... Cheers Will
  11. All primed now. it was really hard to see flaws in the silver plastic. Joins meld with a black line that’s hard to tell from a fine gap. So after the primer I can see there’s just a couple of tidies needed on the fuselage and the sides of the big tanks. In the spirit of the GB I am filling with Squadron Green Stuff. I first tried it on models in my teens, before that it was polyfilla. It’s not still the same tube though that did last 25+ years! The new one isn’t quite as good, seems to dry out on the model quicker. Cheers Will
  12. Fuselage put together and canopy masked. just trying to tidy up the centreline seam, as it will show on a BMF job. Cheers Will
  13. If the trigger assembly is a bit slack, it may help to completely strip down and reassemble, beyond your normal clean up. If you take the airbrush completely apart then look down the back you will see a little gland with screwdriver slot on it. There's a little o-ring inside, so undo the gland and clean up, that and a smear of lube on the air valve will get the brush back to smooth operation in my experience with my Ultra. Helpfully this gland is NOT shown on the instructions exploded-view but is on the online parts diagram! My Evolution has a similarly unmentioned gland, I only found it as it was a second-hand tired example, so I REALLY inspected it; after a proper clean it was as good as new!
  14. Here’s the tanks built; one filled and the other filled and rubbed down. Worst bit was a sink mark between the fins. I’ve made up some harness from 1mm not-Tamiya tape and a fantasy layout of gauges using daughters nail art acrylic and dotting tools. They work really well for applying small circles of paint. All ready to put the airframe together now. Cheers Will
  15. I suspect the problem is the soggy soft plastic Airfix use in Red box kits. I’m building the old F-84F from a late 70s boxing and the silver plastic is beautiful to work. I built a 74 Vb alongside a Red box one. The new one wasn’t bad except in comparison to the 40 year old. Sprue gates to the parts on the seventies one were perhaps 1mm diameter whereas the Red box were massive 6mm dia hexagons 2cm long parallel to the part, making far more clean up required. Those massive gates are a function of Airfix poor material choice which is down to penny pinching either at material, mould reworking, or moulder sub-contractor. Almost every other manufacturer manages to find moulders who can work in harder polystyrene.
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