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About malpaso

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  • Location
    "Strong Country" Hampshire, UK
  • Interests
    Early aviation, interwar and classic 50's US jets

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  1. I’ve found old 70s Airfix decals work fine, although may have yellowed. Same with Frog of same vintage. So worth trying before bothering with AM.
  2. Nice model and finish you’ve done there. I didn’t realize there was a kit of this car. My dad had a red 2wd 90; it was a nice car but seemed a step down after a 190E and the E21 323i rocket ship that preceded it!
  3. I find way too thick as it comes for airbrush, fine for handbrushing ! So I’ve thinned at least 50/50 with water or windscreen washer or Tamiya X-20a, each with equal success. I do find straight or thinned, whilst touch dry in an hour, it’s a week or more before the varnish feels reasonably hard. I plan to see if it can be thinned with Mr Levelling Thinners, on the grounds that X-20A works! Worst that can happen is a massive airbrush clean required!
  4. malpaso

    Tamiya Acrylic

    I can brush paint small areas using X-20a but usually have more luck using flow improver or retarder, doesn’t seem to matter which!
  5. Sounds like this could be an interesting GB and can give a wide variety. In aviation terms an amphibian type is specifically able to land and take off from land or water at choice. As “invented” by Grover Loening. So normal flying boats or float planes don’t count even when fitted with beaching gear. E.g. for a famous example the Catalina, the PBY-5 would be excluded but a PBY-5A fits the parameters!
  6. A chap locally who showed lots of vac forms, said he would mask and paint all the circumferential frames, and then all the longitudinal ones (or vice versa). It gave good results as many were interwar types with multiple small panes, and he said it was the easiest way he’d found.
  7. Very nice build. I built the same kit but as Dutch option; but to me it was as easy as their single seater - and to be honest I’ve not found them much harder than Eduard. In the stash I have the Brigade version+italeri, which I’m not expecting to be nice process!
  8. I’m sure this will come out well, but I can’t help feeling lengthening the T chassis would be easier? Look forward to the result!
  9. I tried invisible thread but it was impossible to see (!) to do it. Metallic thread or plain monofilament okay but hard to tension, overdid it on a Tiger Moth so top wing slightly askew, but only visible in proper plan view. Most recently I’ve used Prym knitting in elastic, very fine and a £2 roll will rig the aircraft of all the airforces before running out. I’ve also used for 1/72, 1/48 and 1/32 - in any scale I find it’s neutral colour helps the feeling of can you / can’t you see the rigging when observing real biplanes.
  10. Two of these active on UK roads this weekend. Weirdly I saw a white Reliant Kitten in Stockbridge yesterday. Seemed to be in use as a mobile shed rather than restoration. I couldn’t believe how small it seemed (less than a classic Mini?) or when I might have last seen one.
  11. The instructions probably mean clear doped linen. So usually yes a pale cream to off white. Although it would vary depending on age of the material. The underside of British WW1 aircraft remained in such finish even once upper surfaces were coloured for both camouflage and UV/sun protection. Linen covering on French aircraft seems to look slightly darker than British, maybe different linen or dope? I use any pale buff paints, such as Tamiya buff or deck tan. It’s a natural colour so there isn’t a right answer.
  12. I just saw a lovely (black) 1930 Speed Six Bentley with 6-light body in The Square in Winchester. Before I could see I suspected Bentley just by the sound!
  13. Yes, rather attractive colour; though chrome wires somewhat arriviste!
  14. Tamiya GTA repop could ruin my “no stash increase” resolution!
  15. Page 22 and 23 of this document give the modern figures, probably close enough to period for modelling purposes. google is your friend
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