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malpaso

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About malpaso

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    Obsessed Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    "Strong Country" Hampshire, UK
  • Interests
    Early aviation, interwar and classic 50's US jets

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  1. Nice build. I agree about sub assemblies but I break down the cockpit more as there's actually a lot more than just interior green - rear half silver, red seat (after mid 1940), black or dark green leather back rest and other details. Allegedly for the early Supermarine production the interior is a lighter green than later aircraft. Of course I do all that and then its virtually invisible through a closed cockpit in 1/72! I look forward to seeing how it turns out. Cheers Will
  2. Keith, as you asked so nicely... Transkits for the forged alloys and RF roof are on their way so I hope to create a 1/24 version too!
  3. Yes the RF is a lovely thing, I’ve owned my eye-searing orange one for two weeks now! You probably overestimate the boot capacity, a pair of steel toe cap boots and a hard hat is my limit for site visits! This was my view on the way to work this morning but the Mk.2 driver wasn’t as brave as me to have the roof open!
  4. Lovely looking model. Early fortresses have a more elegant charm especially in polished metal than the more rugged attractions of the F and G. Thanks for sharing the photos. cheers Will
  5. I wonder if they are for solid models? For someone who knew what they were doing rustling up a whole pile of turned details would only be a few days work. These might even be spares or rejects? If they were masters for (say) vacforming I would expect an engineered split so the two halves could be separated. If masters for injection moulding they would (usually) be to a larger scale and then pantographed down when cutting the mould. Possibly for softmetal casting, though all I've read is that masters for whitemetal are usually in brass, I thought because of the heat (nowadays there are room-temperature vulcanising rubbers, maybe they can't cope with repeated heating for the metal casting?) when creating the rubber mould. Anyway, interesting to see these parts. Notably all the types you've identified effectively predate the appearance of Airfix kits. In the old books of solid modelling it appears that scratching the Overstrand (in your list) and the Southampton would be marks of the true believer! Cheers Will
  6. Wow, that's an impressive first model on returning to the hobby. It looks a fine rendition of a lovely looking racer. I look forward to seeing more of your collection as you build. Cheers Will PS I just realised from your user name that you must be a man of very good taste!
  7. Some of the Lancs were reused on The Dambusters. There's a making of article available. I reckon as a B&W it's a good chance the colour scheme would be DG/MSG/Black as for the later film. https://dirkbogarde.co.uk/magazine/after-the-battle-nov-1999/
  8. When I did my film dambuster using the old Revell kit, as it has the correct (for the film) code letter shapes, i built the mine shape from balsa laminates. In working out the dimensions, i decided the filmmakers actually followed the real Upkeep mine but with the original rounded shape. Although it was secret it seemed likely everyone would have been happier flying a shape that had actually been properly aerodynamically designed back in the day, even if they made it as a shaped fairing and missed off the drive and struts. As it was a B&W film colours weren't important so I believe they just painted green camo over the then Bomber Command livery of Medium Sea Grey over Black. In some stills you will see post-war roundels on the wings, and also underwing serials and nose art freshly patch-painted out. On the real mission 617 had brand new planes, close inspection of the film and stills show the film stars were well used. At least some of the planes in the film had coloured spinners, I plumped for blue in the end but red seemed equally feasible! I guess you would need to use late larger bomb aimer blisters and other post 1943 mods, this wasn't in the venerable 60s kit but paddle blades were! Good Luck and have fun Cheers Will This was my build, some of the reasoning for choices may interest you, though starting with that ancient kit wouldn't be the greatest idea for a state of the art model! Here's a couple of other efforts, bit more realistic than mine, they may assist you.
  9. Deposit on a 30th Anniversary MX-5RF. Now got to wait a week to pick it up!
  10. I found (on mk.Ì) that all the circular portholes had dimples visible. Several along the centre line fell in so I replaced with micro crystal clear after painting, these replacements looked miles better. With the additional portholes I drilled a hole then gently enlarged by rotating a half round rat tail needle file, test fitting with the plastic window every now and again. The half round usually can get to a sensible diameter easily, the full rat tail is a bit small. BTW the proper tool would be a tapered broach, it has five sides which apparently prevents drift, by some mysteriously physical property. I have never used one nor found one in those handy "estate" redistributions of late modellers' tools. I guess I could Google and buy one new but where's the fun in that? Cheers Will
  11. Are the panel lines similar each side? On my Mk1 it looked like the guys doing either side had fallen out, or the same chap had done one side on Friday afternoon and the other on Monday morning! I may steal the post it idea, easier than marking out each call out on the instructions! Cheers Will
  12. I've used this method. Brass square rod standard To me the brass rod is less obvious than a thicker clear rod, but I guess it's all down to personal perception. The little square hole is fairly inconspicuous when off the stand, though obviously not invisible like @azureglo using supermagnets. I like that one stand will work for several models (as long as I only display one plane at a time!). Cheers Will
  13. Two-thirds of a T-Bird would be a low point for Airfix QC. I’ll get me coat...
  14. Apparently they renamed the company Republic as it has eight letter like Seversky. Not sure why that was so important, perhaps they had spent a lot of money on signage frames? i don’t think there was actually much carry over from P-35, P-43, P-47 other than the designers characteristic outline. The fact that Seversky/Republic had cracked the elliptical wing planform as had many other makers makes one wonder why manufacturing such a shape was such a challenge for Supermarine! Far from being revolutionary it was “in the water” of aviation in the 30s. Like grey combat planes nowadays.
  15. There’s die casts depending on scale also the old Triang Minix range had a plastic Anglia.
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