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Skodadriver last won the day on April 16 2018

Skodadriver had the most liked content!

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About Skodadriver

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  • Birthday 09/11/1952

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    Civil aircraft in 1/144 scale .... and cats.

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  1. The thought of using Mr Hobby Levelling Thinners for airbrush cleaning makes me wince. Cellulose thinner will shift almost any type of paint - I regularly use it for cleaning out Tamiya, Mr Hobby, Revell Aqua and Halfords automotive paint. If you are concerned about how it will react to Games Workshop paint I suggest you buy a small quantity of cellulose and try it out on a cheap paintbrush which has been used for Games Workshop paint. If you really don't want to use cellulose you can get aerosol airbrush cleaner from Badger, Spray Craft and Premi-Air (sold as "Liquid Reamer") among others. It's cheaper than Mr Hobby Levelling Thinners but still expensive.
  2. A couple of excellent numbers and some amusing patter from the late Jet Harris
  3. That's a gorgeous model John. The DC-8 was a magnificent aircraft and the Thai livery suits it perfectly. I really like your subtly shaded natural metal - what did you use? Hope you don't mind me giving a heads up for anyone buying the S&M re-bagged kit. I have one on the bench at the moment and although the kit includes alternative engines, noses and wingtips for the 70 series, the instructions are only for the 62/63. It's not a big deal but you can get caught out particularly with the alternative nose. Also for anyone wanting to build a 70 series, the prominent grilles on the forward fuselage were on the Minicraft decal sheet so you'll need to find an alternative for these. Dave G
  4. I don't want to hijack Alistair's thread but the EE 757 is a pile of Arguably yes and EE is a lot dearer than Minicraft - £47.50 as opposed to £24.99 at Hannants. Authentic Airliners is €59, roughly £51.50 I have one in my stash which has metal undercarriage. If you are thinking of buying you should check with Kurt what the current kit includes. Sorry for the drift Alistair.
  5. Not repeatable in polite company. Save up a bit more money and buy Authentic Airliners. Dave G
  6. "Promise Me You'll Shoot Yourself - The Downfall of Ordinary Germans, 1945" by Florian Huber. A sombre and gripping study of the "suicide epidemic" which swept Germany at the end of WW2. Not an easy read by any means but absolutely fascinating particularly the way the author traces the German psyche from the adulation of Hitler in the 1930s to the realisation that things were starting to go horribly wrong and eventually to terror, despair and fear of retribution particularly at the hands of the Russians.
  7. Very nice Alistair. "Retro" liveries can be a bit hit or miss (I really can't get enthusiastic about Aer Lingus's "retro" A320) but BA created a thing of beauty with the A319. It would have been even nicer if they'd painted the wings red but it's still a lovely scheme. You've certainly done it justice and I'm glad the Classic Airlines decals were so successful. It's easy to overlook them but Nick has a great range. I'm looking forward to seeing the 744 finished. Dave G
  8. That's annoying but it might be possible to use the 170/175 sheet. It has enough windows to do a 170 and a 175 so there would be plenty for a 195
  9. Thanks Martijn. I used silver decal stripe on the engines, same as you.. I can't really think of another way of doing it. Thanks for reassuring me that the problem with the engine wasn't due to my own incompetence! Dave G
  10. Thanks for your kind comments Martijn. I saw the real SP-LDC at MUC I think in 2011 and fell in love with the livery on the spot. When I ordered the kits via HLJ I ordered the Nazca decals at the same time. I really don't know why it took me so long to get round to building the model but I've mentioned a couple of times that I am gradually building my way through the European "flag carrier" airlines and when I decided it was time to add LOT to the collection SP-LDC was the obvious candidate. Incidentally I have just started an E190 but at the moment the livery is undecided - possibly HOP which I see regularly at EDI or Ukraine International just because I like it and think it really suits the Embraers. Dave
  11. There was a recent discussion about multiple projects over on Chat. It's very much a personal thing but I know I couldn't restrict myself to working on only one model. Four or five active builds at different stages is my usual quota.
  12. Ukraine International flight AU1231 Kiev - New York JFK at 34,000 feet. According to FR24 it's being operated by this beauty today.
  13. Just a few points to add to the excellent advice you've been given. Heat from a hairdryer can be helpful to get decals to settle down. You don't want it too hot - my wife's dryer only has two settings and I use the lower one. (Be careful if you ever use a hairdryer on a resin kit - resin has a much lower melting point than injection moulded plastic. Don't ask how I found that out...) Microsol and Microset are good, long-established products which won't let you down but personally I prefer Daco Decalsetting. It has the advantage of being available in three strengths. Medium (yellow label) is great for general use. Strong (red label) is for heavier-duty applications. I've never really found a use for the Soft (green label) version but it's available if you want a very mild decal setting solution. If you decide to use a hairdryer do so first before applying any Microscale or Daco liquid - surplus decal setting liquid can damage paintwork if it's heated, another thing I found out the hard way. No matter how much solvent you apply or how many nips and tucks you make you may find there are one or two slight wrinkles left once the decal is dry. You are particularly likely to find these on an area of narrow compound curvature. It's a judgement call in each individual case whether to live with them or try to do something about them. When I built my Alitalia Caravelle there were a couple of slight wrinkles at the top edge of the green stripes on both sides between the forward doors and the cockpit windscreen which I couldn't get rid of and eventually decided to ignore. They are only visible on very close inspection. Sometimes if you run a brand new scalpel blade along the wrinkle and put some strong decal solution on it it will go away but that doesn't always work. You CAN sand down a wrinkle using 1500 grade wet and dry and then touch up with paint but it's a fraught process and you risk ending up with a worse situation than you started with. Another question is whether to trim decals where they overlap. Once again it tends to be a judgment call although you have to do it with laser decals which are translucent and generally can't be overlapped. Even with screen printed decals an overlap can be noticeable particularly if it causes a colour change or a visible ridge. I normally allow the decals to set until they are secure but not fully dry then use a fresh 10A scalpel blade to trim away the overlap. You may find a little paint touch up is needed. Hope that's some help Dave G
  14. Just out of curiosity why would anyone want to airbrush Future (or Klear as it’s known in the UK)? I have a Paasche VL which is a big tough beast of an airbrush but there is no way I’d let Future/Klear anywhere near it. Future/Klear goes on beautifully with a 1/4” flat brush or a cotton bud which saves the grief of trying to clean it out of a precision piece of equipment which was never designed to spray floor wax.
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