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About samhobbs

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    Buckinghamshire, England

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  1. I'd quite like to see Airfix produce a 1/48 Hawker typhoon, some Italian Aircraft e.g. Macchi C.202, C.205 etc, and an AgustaWestland Aw.159 Wildcat
  2. Emodels has them in-stock at the moment, for £38 reduced from £42
  3. Awesome job, is the kit any good, because I was tempted by one myself, when I saw it on emodels a few days ago.
  4. Thanks for the advice, I have now managed to get the plastic to stick, using Humbrol Poly cement, just a shame all I had was those messy little tubes you get with starter/gift sets. Thanks Sam
  5. Thanks, for the reply, I always do wash the sprues before construction, so I doubt that, the release agent is the issue, however it may just be me not scrubbing hard enough, who knows?
  6. Hey, I'm currently building Italeri's 1/48 Hawker Hurricane Mk.1, beautiful kit in terms of detail, fit isn't so great. However, since the beginning of the build, I have had real trouble with the plastic Italeri has used. I simply cannot get it to stick together. Tamiya extra thin is my go to glue, and is what I used for all my builds, so naturally I tried that first, and even after 24hrs of drying time, the bonds snapped instantly, with little or no pressure applied. I then tried superglue, with the same result. after this I was pretty annoyed, so I broke out the Epoxy resin, which I was certain would work, and even after nearly 2 days to cure, no luck, as soon as I tried to sand the fuselage seam with sandpaper, the bond failed once again. So my question is has anyone else ever had this issue, and if so how did you resolve it. ] Thanks Sam
  7. Hi, I have recently been contemplating making homemade thinners, for my acrylic paints, due to the much lower cost of them, (certainly in the long run) compared to buying branded thinners from companies such as Tamiya and Mig. I have read about mixing 99.9% IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) with Distilled or de-ionised water, and then adding a few drops of a paint retarder and flow improver, however I have been wondering does anyone have any tried and tested ratios for the mix of IPA and water, as I'd rather not buy all the components and mix a useless batch of 'thinners' by getting the ratios wrong. Thanks, Sam
  8. Yes it is the GX series the ones in the glass jars, do you know of any cheaper alternatives to the Mr color thinners, as I am on a tight budget. Thanks
  9. I am looking into purchasing some of Mr Color's Super clear III gloss varnish, and was wondering 1. Is it pre-thinned and ready to spray with the airbrush, 2. If you do need to thin it can you use Isopropyl Alcohol, or does it have to be somekind of branded modelling thinners, and 3. if you can't use IPA to thin it what can you use other than Mr Color thinners etc. Thanks
  10. Yeah the exhausts do sweep upwards slightly, which I found odd, but that is what was instructed.
  11. Thanks for the recommendation, I will consider purchasing some.
  12. I've had a number of problems with Microsol recently, namely decals will conform nicely to raised details, but will not bed down into recessed panel lines and rivets, this is on AK Interactive air series paints, with Johnsons Klear, I've also had Humbrol decal fix stripping Tamiya acrylic paints off my models, even when they were covered with numerous light coats of Johnsons Klear.
  13. I have been modelling for a number of years now, and have tried both Microsol and Humbrol Decalfix, but have experienced problems with both of them, so I was wondering what are peoples opinions on the best decal solution/s out there, which are available in the UK. Thanks, Sam
  14. Thank you everyone for the comments, The kit was very good, no putty was required at all. The detailed was equivalent to that of their 1/48 Spitfires.
  15. Here are some completed build pics of my Eduard 1/72 Spitfire F Mk.IX, with Brassin engine set. The model was painted with AK Interactive Air Series colours, sprayed at 11 PSI, using my Sparmax Max3 airbrush. The model and engine were also weathered using AK Interactive products.
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