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"...and a knob to add to the top of the post at the bottom. I'm sure there's a name for it, (the post) but it slips my mind at the moment." Newel Posts & Q-Tip in my homeland, Cotton Bud I've heard bandied about in the UK, I thought. But for an all encompassing name I really like: …"'cotton-wool -buds'- and- you're- not- supposed- to- stick- them- in- your- ear,- but -that's- what- EVERYONE -uses -them-for." because it's incorporates all the needed explanation of the product. Cheers
Dear Zak What a well thought out and executed project. Congratulations. Like many others I find Thor very interesting and have toyed with the idea to do something like this. Being a 1/48 builder I was not aware of some of the kits you have used here and despite having 2x Mach 2 Thor kits I have found the lack of good pictures frustrating. On my holiday this summer I did manage to get a copy of the Thor Weapons book you refer to so there might be a bit of progress soon. Thanks for sharing. Did you consider loaning the finished model to somewhere like Cosford Cold war Museum or Nettished where they have a similar model of a Bloodhound installation? I'm sure it would be good for more people to see this hidden part of the Cold War. Regards Colin
A bit more weathering to do here, and a knob to add to the top of the post at the bottom. I'm sure there's a name for it, (the post) but it slips my mind at the moment. The post is made from the plastic tube of a cotton wool 'lug 'ole cleaner'. Yeah, I know they are called 'cotton wool buds' and you're not supposed to stick them in your ear, but that's what EVERYONE uses them for. Contrary to what I said a few pages ago, I am going to make a 'cupboard under the stairs', mainly because I like this shade of blue I've been using and will have the opportunity to use it some more. TFL Badder
Hi Kev, and thanks. I'm repeating myself, but I discovered the CA'd paper thing by accident, funnily enough when I was making the MiniArt 'Ruined Village House' nearly 2 years ago. I say 'funnily' because that's the very house which became the main part of the building I am now....er... building here. MiniArt buildings are made up of vacuformed parts so when you join the inner and outer parts of a wall together the finished wall is hollow and compressible. And the contact areas for glue around the edges are tiny, so I thought to pack the insides with cardboard and paper first, to massively increase the contacts for glue and also to stop the walls being 'spongy'. Dousing the paper and cardboard with CA, I discovered that the paper set very rigid, like plastic, and so I later used it to make guttering for another building. There are times of course, where wood or plastic are better, but in this case I couldn't see how I would securely glue a strip of plastic or wood along the tops of the balusters. Some might do the 'proper' thing and drill tiny holes in the hand rail for the balusters to fit into, but that's beyond my capabilites. It's not exactly a motto, but I will nearly always use a 'found' mateiral to make things, rather than purchase materials or kits. Whenever I am out and about I will be on the look out for anything that might come in useful in the future. Rearguards, Badder
I really love seeing each new update you post, but am equally sad to see things progress and draw closer to the finish. It's looking absolutely sublime and really seems to have nailed every objective you set yourself at the start, and more! One day I'll come and visit this display.
Damn, that looks good. I am constantly impressed by your ingenuity. I sit here writing up a list of Plastruct for my next hobby order (around £200 and climbing at the moment ) and then pop in here and see you doing this great work on a shoestring. I wonder if I'm really missing something here? Keep on keeping on, mate! Kev
Waste not, want not..... A scrap of graph paper, folded around a coffee stirrer to create a long 'half-pipe'. With the bend formed, I dribbled medium CA along the fold and rubbed it in until it dried hard. The CA dries and turns the paper into a plastic-like material. I could then amputate the half-pipe, the stiffness of the paper preserving the roundness of the bend. It was then a simple case of dribbling CA down the half-pipe and popping it over the balusters. BTW, I've used paper-soaked CA before, to make gutters for the building in my Ever Evolving Diorama. Something I'd learned back then was that CA turns paper into something which is then possible to sand and file. There will have to be more railings upstairs, to stop people from falling down the hole. TFL Badder
A few weeks ago I saw this broom in a pavement display outside an old fashioned hardware store, and just had to buy it. For a few quid I got myself several hundreds of perfectly straight, narrow diameter, plastic 'rods'. They will be very handy and serve many uses - the first being balusters for my stairway. Now, rather than try drilling tiny holes down the stairs and inserting the bristles, I once again decided to lay things out and tack them to graph paper with dabs of CA. This way I could get the spacings right. Because, truth be told, the stairs aren't perfectly regular, and if I were to insert the balusters at the lip (for instance) of each step, the spacings would vary. Once the graph paper has served its purpose, it can be removed fairly easily. Soaking with water helps with the stubborn bits. It was then a case of dry-fitting the stairway/floor, positioning the banisters and working out where to trim the balusters. I've propped the bottom of the stairs up on a block which signifies the depth of the floor. The recently painted blue door (which was the one originally intended for the upper floor), the stairway and the upper floor are only dry-fitted here. The hardest bit will be to find a suitable material for the banister rail.... and then to fix it in place. I am thinking of maybe using a flattened 'half-pipe' of paper soaked in CA. TFL Badder
Don't even JOKE about that! LOL! I retire in a couple of years and have plans to take up semi-permanent residence in those sheds! That's about a tenth of my stash - it's spread around four locations here. and I have a shopping list that will expand it by another dozen or so. As for how many models do I have on the go... tough one to answer. I'm an shoddy and disorganised modeller (I keep my desks tidy but flit around like a butterfly between projects/kits) who likes to delve into projects as the fancy takes him. I guess perhaps 20 or so of my kits have been started, reboxed and shelved. The current 'working' stash is around a dozen - Revell's 24th scale Shelby Cobra 427, Tamiya's 12th scale Honda NR with Starting Rider, The Train Dio (currently working on the Hobbyboss Br52 loco, the Unimodel Railcar and Panzer, the Zvezda Kubelwagen and the Track set), Academy's 48th scale Hunter, AZ Models 72nd Martin Baker MB5, Warhammer's 28mm Dark Eldar Scourges, Various 28mm Napoleonic Figure and Cavalry sets [building and priming these as a favour for a fellow modeller who loves painting but hates building] and Airfix HO/OO scale Evening Star Loco. The Cobra and Honda are commissions for workmates. Yesterday I built a potholder for my MEK-poly as the bottle is a lot less stable than the Revell and Tamiya glues it's replacing - Kev
Hi Badder - did it myself by a process of elimination. As the problem was only in the modelling sheds and only started a few months ago, I only had to target those things that were 'new' to my workshop and spraybooth - easy peasy! I've decided to go with my original plan and make the base from readily available 6mm MDF as I'd like to keep the size of the final display to fit on either a shelf or mantlepiece - that limits the depth that I can feasibly make it. Didn't see the point in cutting down the shelf as I'm sure I'll find a use for it in its current format. Appreciate advice and ideas though - I'll 'try' to remember them when I plan another dio. Kev - having a lazy day watching tv and relaxing - okay, so maybe I'm looking at one or two models in the stash as well...
Great news Kev. I bet that's a huge relief. Did you suss it out yourself, or did you have blood tests? Good to see you're back at it. Shelves - a great source for diorama bases. I used one for my Carry on Regardless dio. It had a Formica veneer covering so I feared my plaster groundwork would fall off. First I took a scalpel to the top surface and cut and slashed at the veneer so as to improve the 'key' for the Polyfila. But then I had an even better idea which not only solved that problem, but also aided in the application of static grass, and that was to screw a sheet of wire mesh on top. I found the mesh on a builders' fly-tip and think it's actually designed to reinforce plaster in the building trade. BTW, I'd go for a 'split level' option, higher along the back, and maybe follow Pete's suggestion and have two lines. Rearguards, Badder
Yeah thanks Gorby, I was thinking this but was unsure how much would be seen through the Resin as it will be a thick layer once it's fully poured. I guess it's best to put them in just in case. I will have a look at that today.
Ah, Yes, Crop, Prop, I can see how that could happen , 'prubly my accent-don' sha know? As to that "errant block". Well if I'm honest, it was just a wee tiny bit of fun. Hoping that you would understand ( and forgive) Model On good sir, I'll be a ways behind ya. p.s. I like waffles too. Also, I was in the theater the night Mr. Grant made his mad dash, however, I have firmly resolved to never grow up.
Hi Steve, and welcome. I read your tag as Crop Duster BTW and thought of Cary Grant being chased across a corn field. Dunno how old you are, but it was a film made before I was born! Thank you for stumbling in and spending the time and effort to have a look and type such kind comments. I don't think I've ever received so many 'likes' from one person in one 'sitting'. I am glad that you've found the thread interesting enough to wade through. Believe me, I was rubbish when I first returned to this hobby after a 35yr gap, but joining BM and watching others work was the best learning curve there is, so I post this stuff hoping that there's some stuff of use to someone. However, I do fear at times that I waffle, like now, so I will just say thanks again, and I hope you find the rest of this thread helpful. Rearguards Badder. ps I'm hoping that was a joke about the inaccurate 'block'. If not, I'm going to have to scrap the entire building and start again.
I stopped in and up on discovering your missive. I was struck by what I was seeing. Looking at all the building being- uh- built, scraped, skim coated ,worn, inked, impressed by ball points, and colorized to within an inch (should I have said mm?) of its life; I can only utter a sustained WOW! I feel badly that I have missed the evolution of this tour de force in the diorama side of modeling, until now . Very Well Done Sir. I shall, if I may be so bold, squeeze back into this small corner next to the debris from your work and sit in rapt wonderment as you continue to produce an amazement in the art of "dio-rama-icry". OH, and just one small point. The block at the front left of the right rear just behind the colored plaster is 1.132 of a mm out of size. But I'm sure you knew that anyway. As many say, in the country of my birth, "Have a Nice DAY"
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