Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

Diorama Content

Showing topics in Diorama Chat, Work In Progress - Dioramas and Ready For Inspection - Dioramas posted in for the last 365 days.

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Today
  2. CF is just very rigid, and once cured will resist any shape changing efforts. The commercially available rods are fully pre cured. They're very light for their considerable strength and are easy to bond with epoxy or superglue. The R/C aeromodelling community likes them for lots of things, but a typical example might be control rods between servo and control surface where it's imporant that the surface itself moves predictably with the servo and in accordance with the transmitter stick rather than buckling. It's usually possible to get a good fit with brass tube so your dio could be dismantlable for transport if needed. The carbon fibre rods may have a better chance of holding a helicopter at the top of a "rope" than steel would, particularly since the weight at the top will be offset and will encourage the "rope" to bend over.
  3. Yesterday
  4. As I mentioned above, I wanted to see how well the first batch of moss would stand up to time and abuse. I don't like sticking things in dioramas if they are going to disintegrate, rot, or become fragile over time. So, I brushed and knocked the moss, and here's the result: All of the fern-like moss fell off. The other species of moss - also soaked for two days - stood up to the abuse much better. Still, I think the two-week soaked moss will be the best to use. The same two species of moss were soaked for two weeks and in the process lost more of their green colour. I experimented with dying one clump (far left) with dark green acrylic ink and it took up the colour well. I will try a lighter green as well. In the photo below I've arranged the dyed clump, non-dyed clumps and also a few fragments of the 'fern-like' species of moss. I didn't gather much of the latter moss, so I will have to go find some more. Close-up of the dyed clump. I stored it in an airtight ice cream tub so it's still damp and sticky with glycerine . I shall take the lid off and let everything dry out - and test it for preservation again in a week or so. (the moss, not the lid) Incidentally, I intend to use this species in clumps, but will also remove and use individual strands. And the same goes for the fern-like species. TFL Badder
  5. Yes Engineers. Just thought I hadn’t posted a link to the F-16 build that I mentioned
  6. A week or so has passed since I used the first batch of moss and it hasn't been preserved as well as I'd hoped. The finer filaments can be knocked/brushed off. However, the second batch of moss - which was soaked for a week rather than 2 days - is a lot better and can survive being man-handled. How long will it survive in the diorama? Er.,,, only time will tell. I will gather some more though, and soak it for 2 weeks. It may be that that will improve things further still. I am liking the bindweed though. I have purchased a batch of card of different shades of green which will require no painting and will provide a better 'look' than the current leaves. TFL Badder
  7. Excellent work. You should, of course, have some figures of personnel from another Thor squadron attempting to breach security This was regularly attempted.
  8. Last week
  9. 10. Fence..... Materials .....plastic mesh, styrene, plastic profiles.....
  10. Always check the electrical/plumbing supply sections of your local building/automotive supply stores. I had the benefit of working in an oilsand extraction plant for 35 years and always having access to the electrical/instrumentation shop. Lots of good small stuff in there. It also helps when the various tradesmen would carelessly leave things lying around and not return them to the shop. As a plant operator, it was my job to look after my assigned area and keep an eye on all work being done. I've also taken old electronics ( VCR, Walkmans, etc ) apart and harvested anything that looked of possible use. My youngest daughter works as a cosmetician in the boutique section of a local national chain drugstore. I can get a lot of useful items there at her employee discount price. Always look at everything as a possible source of supply. Chris
  11. It's quite amazing what some modellers here use that "aren't necessarily specific modelling products". "We" use: Floor polish as varnish, Isopon car filler for shaping and filling ship's hulls, sewing thread as plastic saws, belt hole cutters as plastic disc cutters, Clear silicon bathroom sealant for making a sea scape... The list is endless. When wife and daughter are in the wimmen's make up section, I spend time, looking bored, but surreptitiously lurking for files and nail polishers etc which are perfect for modelling. I'm think of getting Daughter to buy some of the resin nail making stuff to try out on models and recently I stole (borrowed) her latest eyebrow tweezers as they're actually very delicate, VERY strong and they're the best I've ever used for handling very small parts. I haunt the flower arranging section in Hobby Craft as you can pick up some superb and very thin different scales of wire there that's perfect for model tank / plane / ship bits. My wife finds it highly amusing to watch me retrieve something she's thrown into the bin to add to my "Scratchbuild resources" (What she calls my rubbish pile) for possible future use. Last week she caught me dismantling one of her wee patio lights (has a wee solar panel that charges a battery thar runs a wee LED, you know the things) and asked what I was doing. I replied innocently that "the battery was U/S and I was just going to change it". "It was fine last night" she replied "and why does it now have one of your modelling candlelight LEDs attached to it? Were you thinking of putting it in that America Yacht model by any chance? Put it back together and back in my plant pot!" Curses! Foiled again! Now I've just texted a mate whose having house renovation done to see if he has any of the insulation stuff mentioned to see if I can find a use for it... Seascapes, ship's hulls, superstructure etc... I'm rather sad really...
  12. Thanks Black Knight and Dogsbody and Troy Smith and Murdo for your replies to this thread. All greatly appreciated and enlightening. I am beginning to realise that building dioramas means you use products that aren't necessarily specific modelling products and you find things that are not always stocked in model shops.
  13. The last of the skulls, plus the paints I ordered for the re-do of the Dancing Girls skirts, should be turning up around end of next week. But I'm not all that chuffed with the look of the dungeon floor - the pigments I used make it look too "yellow" and have subsequently left it far too bright. So all the figures and everything else are coming back off the scenic over the next couple of days while most of those pigments get washed off and replaced by a darker color. That'll also provide an opportunity to integrate the piles of skulls better into the floor of the scenic. Meanwhile, I decided the display needs more of Thulsa Doom's henchmen, so I made a start on assembling and painting these two 75mm thugs. Ignore the guy in the middle who's "Taken the Black". He's going to be used in the next fantasy show I have planned.
  14. 7. First Steps in Creating Terrain ... The materials I used .... Dry natural land "Nature in scale", wooden slate, all glued with white glue.... The result.... Coloring and weathering....
  15. First attempt to put the composition ..... In the first step making diorama I had in plan a wood....but in the end....I stopped laying the wood.....he drew attention..... It will appear on several pictures more ..... but with new detail (fence) I will successfully replace it....
  16. 6. Pump station The materials I used to make a pump station; Styrene, wooden slats, plastic ..... I connected everything with a Tamiya extra thin and super glue..... The result.....
  17. Poly urethane squirty foam; line the box with a plastic bag. Foam wont stick to the plastic. Trim the shape to neaten edges, or leave the cardboard on some sides for glueing stuff on. I used to make war-gaming hills for no.3 son by spraying the foam into a plastic bag and holding the bag down onto a table, allowing some of the bag to expand upwards and outwards, but the bottom was flat to the table.
  18. I had some blue insulating foam left over from finishing the basement but I don't have any now. You could go to your local building supply store and see what they might have. Chris
  19. what's the square meterage of your roof? Mines maybe 48 square metres, which is about 16 sheets, so, yes, if you are insulating somewhere you will use lots of the stuff, which is why I suggest hunting for offcuts, as a full board is 2.4x1.2 m (or 8x4 ft in old money..) but then it gets cut up to fit... a 100 mm thick board of that size looks to be £30 to £40, so apart from not wanting a blinkin' great sheet, it's not cheap either. It comes in a variety of thickness's as well. Hence my comment about offcuts and skips... bear in mind you can always stick bit together onto a base board as well. HTH PS for the small amounts a modeller would need, @Black Knight suggestions are good.
  20. Hi Troy, Many thanks for that hugely helpful and informative reply. I have no experience of the building trade or the materials used in that field so would never have known about things like PIR boards. Can I assume it is something that builders might buy in bulk? I shall set my sights on house building sites or builders merchants now and see what I can source. Hopefully I can find some and try my hand at a diorama. The foam getting used in the AK Interactive video looks really good for diorama bases.
  1. Load more activity
×
×
  • Create New...