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You get this horsehair stuff, tease it out, spread it over the branches and spray with hairspray then sprinkle the leaves on. IIRC I used mixed herbs for the leaves. Treemendus do the horsehair though other suppliers are available.
@Ratch - how did you get the very sparse appearance of folaige/ a lot of that seems almost 'hovering' in mid air! @Army_Air_Force - thanks for the great little writeup on how you make your trees - may have to try that on my next diorama.
I have been remiss in keeping a close eye on your shenanigans' and what do I find after coming back from safari to outer reaches of middle earth? Why you have made enormous strides in creating or shall we say once again recreating the wall or a wall -its all a bit hazy. That it seemed to offend your fine since abilities is easily understood by all of your loyal minions and followers of this project. I'm sure this latest recreation of a stone wall will show through with all the skill and daring of your past land mark parts (well except for this miscreant wall ). Regardless! Mortar board and trowel at the ready, I euphemistically, once again stand poised to dash in at a moments notice to add my humble troweling to keep the project on an even keel. So, as a unabashed admirer and accolade. I once again sing your praises ----------------- Oh, brother!-sigh
- Last week
Progress has been a bit slow because I'm having to sit and stare at the building and try to figure out how everything is going to fit together. Having decided to add dormer windows to the central roomI have to work out how the roof and the dormers would be constructed. And then I have to decide whether to model the whole lot, collapse some of it, or the majority of it. At the moment I'm leaning towards constructing a collapsed roof and the barest remnants of dormer window on the RHS, whilst the LHS remains fairly intact. In between the sitting, staring and thinking, I continued work on the windows in the new section of wall and made preparations for matching up the stonework between new and oldsections of wall. The central column between the two small upper windows is a block of FTINFBISS made from two rectangles CA'd together. At the moment it is just dry-fitted. The windows look wonky, but that's due to foreshortening by the camera lens. Meanwhile, the roof over the middle room (to right in photo) will slope down to the level of the two dry-fitted blocks in the centre pf the photo. The intact window on the left then, will stand proud of the roof with its own little roof over the top (essentially the definition of a dormer window) TFL Badder
Hi Clive, I had a sense of where this was heading and I was right. I was expecting kit figures though, not scratched ones, so hats off to you! A simple vignette can sometimes be the most thought provoking and you've proven the point. Perhaps you could do a little series of them, with other nationalities and different eras? You could wander off to the medievil period, the middle-east, or even sci-fi? Just a thought. Rearguards, Badder
Hi Mr Repeater, I've had a fair bit of experience with MiniArt buildings, but not roads. However, the same techniques apply with both. If I may make a suggestion with filling the void under the road? Forget plaster of paris etc and use blocks of balsa wood (or similar) as pier supports, just as the romans held up their hypocaust flooring with piers of bricks (for underfloor heating) Then fill the remaining voids with scrunched-up newspaper. You can then soak the newspaper with PVA and set it fairly solid. I must confess I usually douse my 'newspaper' with thin CA, making a more solid stuffing, but some would say that's an expensive option! Rearguards, Badder ps. When I say 'balsa wood' and 'pier supports' and 'newspaper', I am of course being over-specific. Any cheap wood would do, making the piers from blocks of matchsticks for example whilst the piers themselves could be more like internal walls, and the newspaper could be layers of corrugated cardboard etc.
Hello Here is the 1/144 Revell Boeing 747-436 wearing a mix of 26Decals, Draw and AA decals in the British Airways Chatham Historic Dockyard livery. Photo etch landing gear assemblies were used along with 3D printed leading and trailing edge flap sets (that was a lot of plastic surgery) I made the kit to display the aircraft on very short finals but have been constantly told that as it tells a story and has figures, that it qualifies as a diorama, so here it is just about to cross the perimeter road of no particular UK location. John
The first box has turned up and its the Village Street. Vac formed kits are not something I have ever had any experience of but looking at the parts and instructions (and having watched a few builds on YouTube), its nothing that looks too scary. But of course there is a but! There are a couple of issues that I can see straight away, nothing major but stuff. The first is the production pips and holes. Nothing serious but what looks like a couple of hours work to remedy by scraping, filling and sanding. The other is actually two linked issues - the floppiness of the bases and the join between the two bases. There is no way the bases can be used with some form of support in the void underneath them. Having looked online, there seems to be a few ways around this – fill it with resin or plaster appear to be popular but I don’t fancy either of these. The other popular way appears to be using 6mm MDF, which is what I think I will do. This will also mean that I can build a frame too to lift it off the floor as it were. The bases have a lip thus Base lips Now if I use MDF as a base, I can see two ways of doing it. The first is to take the lip off at the edges where the bases abut, cutting the MDF to fit inside the rest of the lip. The other is to take all the lips off and glue the two halves flat onto the board. The joining of the bases is something that I have thought about not doing and just building them as two different dios. The more I thought about that idea, the more it felt like a cop out. The models I have got to do this with have become a scene in my head. The second option is a bit more work. I think that this will also assist with the join between the two bases. However I do it there is going to be a bit between the two bases that is going to need filling. I think if I take the lips off and glue the bases flat to MDF, it will minimise the join as far as I possibly can. The only problem I can see with this is the actual flat gluable area is the part where the buildings are placed, which isn’t that great an area. I suppose a way round this is to use some sort of thick, almost space filling glue. I suppose this also gives option 1 more credence as the lips can be used to glue to the sides of the MDF. Suggestions and opinions gratefully received.
Thanks Kev- I knocked this together to go in the same display. It helps when the full size was 500yards away from the Museum at Air Leasing at Sywell... Hobbbycraft Buchon and I bought an old Monogram 109G and nicked the cockpit. My first ever try at plunge moulding to do the canopy... 13737469_10153653398615976_2154917720113296042_o by Ben Brown, on Flickr ATB TT
Thanks Kev well spotted on the roundels - I figured he'd nipped off for a brew having replaced the ailerons! The kids seem to like it in the Museum as its displayed at their eye level! Luckily I managed to pick up a number of Airfix 504s on the cheap - and over the years there have been five serial variations (some duplicated in reboxings) so each one has a different serial - albeit not all Sage built machines...but who will spot that! TT
Badder Of course before I registered on BM, I spent a lot of time lurking going through threads so I am aware that your wise words come from experience so thanks for them and the encouragement. Well no but..... as with all things its a long story (and tangential to the dio but hey). I am big enough and experienced enough in life to know you get what you pay for. What I have gone for is an a 110 euro compressor and airbrush combo from Amazon. What I was more interested in was the compressor - it had to have an air tank, a regulator and a moisture trap. The fact that the two possibly el crapo air brush come with it is almost incidental. I know already that they will be what they are. What I didn't add was that in my modelling tool collection from my past is a Badger 200 NH. I purchased this about 20 years ago, used it once with an air can and went (unsurprisingly) "well I can't use that". I found it the other day and it needs a good clean. However its an alright airbrush so I am not going to be basing my learning curve exclusively on the two brushes with the deal. And on the subject of those. As you may be able to tell from my avatar picture and my user name, I guitar. If there was ever a group of people who will tell you your gear is important then it is guitarists, perhaps to the point of obsession. There is a large German music retailer who sell their own line of guitars. They are look alikes but have a price tag which is much, much lower than the "real thing". Thing is they are made in the same factories that Fender and Gibson use in China and Indonesia to make their instruments. Are they as the same thing? Of course not. However they are pretty good for what they cost. A case in point, I have a friend who makes his living playing bass guitar. I have a very cheap bass from this company that I payed less than 80 euros for, to put that in context a cheap Fender version would be 300-400 euros and a high end one, well name your price. My friend picked it up and played it and after about a minute said "you paid how much for this?". He was so impressed with it he went a got one himself to use on stage at wedding gigs. My point is that yes, they maybe cheap but it doesn't mean that they are going to be unusable. I have done my research and I know what the drawbacks of cheap airbrushes are - the needles aren't the best and the O rings perish as soon as you look at them. I am going into this with my eyes open and will at some point be getting myself a better airbrush. Anyway back to the actual dio......
Thanks badder, dont worry Im planning on adding some brown inks on certain firgures to make their clothes look a little more saturated then glossing over that to give it a wet look sheen. The resin will be up to the guy being pulled and the ramp of the lcvp so the guys in the water will be just under their waists. Also added gloss on helments too. Ive just got alot of weapons and stuff to paint and wrap in their teenie little bags
What? No camera, film crew and trolley tracks? And where'e the exploding hangar??? hee hee hee... Another lovely little dio. I think I might have to make a trip down to Sywell next year to see more! Keep up the great work, TT Cheers Kev
Nice one, TT Absolutely nothing wrong with that dio! It replicates the days when aircraft COULD be built by "a man and his mates in a shed". Albeit, a damn big shed! I particularly like the half completed roundels on the aircraft with the ladder leaning up against the upper wing - where's the bloke gone? Another tea break??? Cheers Kev
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