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Diorama Content

Showing topics in Diorama Chat, Work In Progress - Dioramas and Ready For Inspection - Dioramas posted in for the last 365 days.

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  1. Today
  2. Try Amera Plastic Mouldings, have a wide range. Did/do the bases for the airfix sets. http://www.amera.co.uk/product.php?range=a
  3. Hello I'm hoping you folks can really help me out, as I am looking for an old 1/72 vacuum form diorama set from (???) in which it had fortified bunkers and trenches with a Pak-40 cannon and some other vehicles in it, sorry I can't recall sorry this goes back at least 30+years I thought the set was from Airfix, but it is probably from someone else like ECSI. The roofs of the bunkers could be lifted off so you could adjust your models/soldiers from within the bunker as needed. I know the set has long been retired??? But I was hoping to get some detail images of it for a project I would to build upon, any help would be appreciated! Cheers Mates! Please see images here, thank you! https://www.pinterest.com/mikegross5691/dioramas/
  4. Yesterday
  5. Just a little update. The insert with the more decrepit wall section has been weathered a bit more and is almost finished in terms of construction. I just have to add a few bricks to the right hand edge, where the rectangular space is. I'm adding them to the insert, rather than to the brownstone section so when it's removed that brownstone section will have a step in it, rather than be vertically defined. Here's the building with no roofing. If I display the model like this I will have to add all the roof debris, which I intend to make. Here's the building with just the large section of roof added. And with the other insert in place. I've also decided to whitewash or add render to the upper half of the building. I may use CA'd paper to do the latter. For now though, I'm experimenting with just applying white ink and weathering it. TFL Badder
  6. Maybe wanted more destroyed elements. The burning was done in addition to heating the plastic and in addition the use of burnt nail (for the holes). Painting with silver, brown and tan with real ash and charcoal. The ash was also used to tan the floor along with some spots that were painted with black diluted acrylic paint. There were also holes with water made with thick paper glue but the glue evaporated and they are not visible. I will bring them back with transparent wood glue
  7. Last week
  8. Awesome work the aircraft being burned out is outstanding.
  9. I forgot to post this here I did in the aircraft ready for inspection forum. It's an A-10 Warthog I made for my mate who served in Afghanistan with the Royal Marines. He loves the plane and I managed to do this in a week and a half with the help of my better half, she did the groundcrew and the generator and other equipment. It's all from Hasegawas USAF ground crew set which I think really adds scale I'm not one for making dioramas so I'm not great at figure painting. I have made a good few bases and for them I usually get a chopping board or something like that. In this instance it's a cupboard door from IKEAs bargain corner and the concrete is a tube of Pollyfilla smoothed with a steel ruler and painted with acrylics and the lines between the concrete is Mr Paint rubber black painted in a thick coat so it has the look I'm looking for where it's got a bit of shine in the light. Here's a figure in the kit I thought I could make into a Royal Marine so it's painted in a way that looks as close to that as possible. The gun is the Avenger cannon from the kit which the instructions will.tell you to put inside the aircraft but it can be made separately as there are two muzzles for the gun so there's no reason not to display it, a waste if you insert it if you ask me. There is one thing here, so I broke the canopy and as I was under a crazy deadline with the build I went onto Hannants hoping but not expecting a replacement canopy but I couldn't believe it AFV Club happen to make a replacement canopy for the Hobbyboss kit, when I received it it is a direct mould of the original part with a coating on the inside it's a purplish/yellow tint in some light and looks perfectly clear in others, it's actually really cool. So this was my best effort at a diorama and a model in 1/48 scale. If not for my other half I would not have finished this in time this took 1 and a half weeks, it was 11 or so hours building and painting at a time and I'm very happy. I hope my figure painting skills get better with time I paint them and give them a wash and I've no other techniques than that. I hope you guys like it, I want to make more dioramas as I often just build aircraft but dioramas give a real sense of the size of the subject so I will keep trying. I do appreciate constructive criticism as it's always good to know what could be done better and yeah I'd love to know your thoughts, enjoy the photos!
  10. Weathering on the a/c is terrific. How did you do that ? I would however expect there to be more debris around the ground.
  11. Beautiful! I want to shrink myself and live there!
  12. That’s looking fantastic. Looks very rickety, and ready to collapse any second! Must admit I just had a tinge of nostalgia and dug out a couple of old White Dwarf’s, found one with the ‘original’ inn.
  13. So, it's been a while since I did anything to this project, so I thought I'd spend some time today and move it forwards... 4 hours later and I've tiled the back roof, attached the "spine" or whatever it's called to the main roof, and tiled a little bit of the tower roof. Got bored with tiling so I gave up. There are gaps where the two smaller roofs join the main roof, but I have a plan for fixing that, involving thin lead strip. That will be done after painting is done, so that I don't have to paint the lead, and it will therefore look like lead... There are also a few gaps in the main roof around the tower, which I will deal with by using a moss technique that Black Magic Craft showed in one of his youtube videos. Photos - I purchased recently some "wood piles" and a dry stone wall - And here they are in position, but not glued down -
  14. Hi Mark, Ah, I understand the desire for both being seen together now. Many a military model-maker will be jealous of your hands on experience of the real things! I know I am! Many of us have returned to this 'childhood hobby' later in life. I left it 35yrs before finding myself lured back when I 'accidentally' saw some of the old Tamiya kits I once made, still being sold today. Having more spare time on my hands, I just couldn't resist buying a few oldies that I'd made as a kid, plus some oldies that my pocket money could never afford. I've still got some of those oldies in the stash, more in fact than I have the later kits. But dioramas are my 'thing'. I've only made a couple since my return and am now concentrating on 2 long term dios, hoping to make the very best that I can. If I live long enough to get them both done I'll probably call it a day for dios and stick to simple vignettes! Have fun, take your time, and don't be scared to re-do bits you think you can do better. I think it's better to be very fussy and do the very best you can now, rather than thinking 'That's rubbish' in a few months or years. I shall follow your progress and look forward to seeing more. Rearguards, Badder
  15. Another fabulous little diorama from Sweden. And two grungy old trucks for the price of one. Bargain!
  16. They were but not any more https://www.pilotweb.aero/news/raf-islanders-upgraded-1-6220461 I was originally thinking of the Red Devil’s Islander that was always about at airshows. I am sure that I did see an after market set of decals too, but then they released this nice grey one. The kit does look very nice & modern but I have not built a Valom kit before
  17. Phantoms are always good, though that Islander looks interesting. I always thought they were Army not RAF.
  18. Well the RF-4E build is coming to an end - just FOD covers & rbf tags and she can be posed with the HAS. Now should I do Wattisham visitor with an RAF FGR2 in the HAS or Alconbury with a USAF RF-4C in the HAS? And then what next? Trying to decide. This is not all of the stash but the next most likely builds Could carry on the Luftwaffe theme with the Gina, or follow @Lord Riot with the Weasel. I would like to do the tug but need some paint. Then there is the Islander. Kit looks great. Includes etch detail. Temptation to fit lights & motors too. Resisting the temptation to dive in to the Buccaneer at the moment....
  19. I still have to add insignia to the 144L front grill which I have to order. The title 'tight squeeze' is relates to the awesomeness of how the driver managed to back in his trailer into a docking bay whose entry way is almost as wide as the trailer itself. This proves how experience the driver is with his truck.
  20. Cheers for the feedback both, much appreciated, you should have seen the first base for cramped, ruined it and binned it lol, got same one again and widened it with ends of the first one with some plaster, they are both my two fav WW2 battlewagons, so wanted them together, not totally accurate as you say so just a tad of artistic licence, I helped restore a Comet and worked on two others, and have worked on a Sherman, and rebuilt a multibank engine, a real pig to work even in a workshop ! using the whole project as a learning curve as much as anything, first Diorama, but also first models done for over 25 years and never done weathering before, lots of firsts in one go, so challenging myself a lot. When figures are done will be dismounted as if parked in a harbour area brewing up, so in that respect vehicles close together is OK - I hope, crater is going to be under the comet and visible on one side, I hope it works as well but ....... we shall see cheers for you comments much appreciated- again Mark
  21. Hi Mark, I am not an expert on British armour, but Niall questions those two tanks being seen together. I will bow to his superior knowledge, but I would question whether the 8th Army got rid of its Shermans and Fireflies and replaced the lot with the new tanks all on the same day? Whatever, I do think it's a mistake to show both tanks in the one diorama, not because it's probably historically inaccurate, but because the diorama looks too cramped. Personally, I'd want that base to be half as big again, minimum. Or, I'd just have the one tank placed in it. As for your groundwork, that's all looking very promising. The cobbled sections, rubble and soil are excellent, and it's a shame to plonk a tank over it and hide it all - another reason for just having the one tank. The angled railway tracks look good. Always best to have things at an angle. I like the rusty rails (they'd be shiny silver on top if in use) and I like the sleepers and ballast. Various dark washes, and some greens will age those nicely, being that the line is unused and moss and other plants will have started to grow amongst it. As for a bomb/mortar crater, I'd only put that in if I were going to display the one tank, again because it will cramp the cramped diorama even further. Oh, I forgot to mention the muddy footprints. Excellent! I hope you used a 'stamp' and didn't have to paint those treads by hand! If you did the latter, then fair play to you! A very promising and good 'first' diorama. Better than mine was! I look forward to seeing your next update. Badder
  22. I could have sworn I had added these photos..... First off, I carved some red brickwork directly into the FTINFBISS, in the gaps between the paper 'render', painted and weathered it with the usual plaster dust wash. There's one brick which almost got 'halved' by an errant press with the scalpel blade and it's showing up here because of the dust wash. I will have to fill it and paint it red again. Fussy, I know. I then added the stonework window surround, because I forgot to do it beforehand, which would have been the better option! Whatever, it too got a wash with plaster dust. Everything is plaster-dusty and will get partially cleaned off at some point. It doesn't matter when. The full or partial cleaning will affect everything differently and that adds realism. Then I'll probably add some more red brickwork to the right of the window, and repeat the whole weathering process over everything. Again. Maybe the last lot of red bricks will look slighter 'fresher'? Who knows? I then moved onto the window below. As the wall section below is a permanent fixture and not an insert like the wall/window shown above, I thought it would be best to fix the window to the exterior, rather than on the interior 'insert'. I was measuring everything out and preparing to make window frames, and thought I'd best check my spares box first. Lo and behold, I found a spare scratch-built window frame which I had made earlier. A couple of years earlier! I can't remember if this was one I'd made for my extended MiniArt Ardennes building, or this one. Whatever, it only needed a bit of sanding to fit, and is dry fitted here: I particularly like the shape of the broken glass here. I have yet to paint the rest of the frame and sill. And that curve in the interior sill needs seeing too as well. Apart from all of the above, I've been continuing to 'fit' the different sections of the building, sanding and filing walls and filling gaps so that it will all join together as neatly as possible. So, I've been dismantling the sections and having a look at things. I decided to strip some of the wall plaster (CA'd paper) from the wall beside the chimney brest. That's revealed the 'fresh' white plaster beneath..... which I dirtied just a little bit. A few scraps of CA'd paper were more stubborn and remain, slightly peeling off down the side of the brest and the 'look' is much more interesting and more realistic I think. And looking the other way, at the other section, I will be removing most of the debris from the floor of the room. That's because the debris on show here is of stonework and rafters meant to be a collapsed dormer window, not a 'normal' window as it should be now. When it comes to replacing that debris it will consist entirely off roof tiles, rafters, floor beams, floor boards and red bricks. If I'm displaying the building in it's more decrepit state there will be a very large number of said items on the floor, to match the debris that would have fallen from the low-pitched roof. If I'm displaying the building where the low-pitched roof is more or less intact, there will be less debris on the floor. So, being fussy, I have to model both versions. The debris for the intact version will be permanently fixed in place, whilst the debris for the decrepit version will, like the inserts, be removable. It sounds crazy, but hey. I suspect I'll be able to lump the extra debris in two or three pieces. TFL Badder
  23. Hi Steve, I don't drink coffee myself. 'Tis a foul substance' although I do like coffee liqueurs, coffee liqueur chocolates and coffee breaks. (A specific break from work during which one is free to drink, or not drink coffee) As for coffee stirrers, I think they were invented to cut down on staffing costs, by switching tol 'self-service' coffee points. The wooden stirrers appeared soon after, in response to patrons stealing steel or silver tea spoons, the latter being the kind of cutlery laid out at 'top class' restaurants, and patronized by top class thieves. One suspects that one 'started at the bottom': stealing and selling steel spoons and, after making suitable profits, advancing to those higher circles. Although as you said, there they tend to drink tea, but it still moves in circles when one stirs it. I myself prefer tea, and have been known to drink as many as 2 cups in one year. But that was many years ago and I couldn't tell you which year it was. 7 years ago? I may have had one on the morning after my wedding day? On the diorama front, I have made some minor and fiddly progress and I arrived here to find that I hadn't posted an update! I was sure I had! So thanks for jogging my memory. Images will appear here as if by magic in mere minutes! Keep safe dude! Badder
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