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Chaotic Mike

Gold Member
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About Chaotic Mike

  • Rank
    Obsessed Member
  • Birthday 10/30/1963

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    mike_hislop@hotmail.com
  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Hampshire
  • Interests
    Predominantly WW2, 1/32 and above.

Recent Profile Visitors

2,513 profile views
  1. I didn't find the cockpit tweaks that I made to be too painful. However, it probably isn't entirely accurate, either. But it does look a lot more busy.
  2. Sounds do-able. It's a pity they didn't mould them accurately; I'd have thought leaving holes wouldn't be too taxing!
  3. Yes, as I posted last night it occurred to me that many things need doing 4 times. I considered drilling out the exhausts, but concluded 96 non-circular holes in out of scale things that will be hidden by shrouds anyway would be a lunacy too far.
  4. Thanks. So that's three holes in total? To the razor-saw!
  5. It's a long drawn out process. I should really check the instructions before spending a couple of hours building and painting an internal framework that will not actually ever be seen... Actually, you can almost see the top of the tank and the frame through the nacelle, if you choose to leave the cowlings off. And speaking of nacelles... How many of those rectangles (if any) represent holes? I've had a trawl around the internet but not found any good pictures of what goes on here. I was thinking it likely that there would be a void on the forward facing face of the indent, representing the through path for radiator air but I have no evidence for that other than supposition! Anyone know, or have any good source pictures? Mike (who refuses to be ground down by what is a LONG process...)
  6. A few months later, and what do we have? Four rather anaemic looking Merlins, with what look to be overlong exhaust pipes. These are all pre weathering, oily gubbins and pipes feature in the futures of some of them.
  7. Lovely job, but based on an ancient Matchbox, rather than Frog, kit?
  8. Looks like something from 'Dastardly and Muttley'...
  9. I used 3/4 of a pot of Tamiya XF-1 as an undercoat for half the fuselage (i.e. not the clear side...), the bomb bay and the inner sides of the doors, and part of the fins and stabilisers. Do Tamiya do 1/4 gallon cans...? It's big, it's black, it's nowhere near completion...
  10. I thought I could show a little progress. First, the first 4 bombs ringed using the old 'trap the detonator in the Dremel' trick, as discussed above: Seems to work well, even if the Dremel's slowest speed seems to be about 2000rpm! Next, some views of the mid-upper (unglazed) and tail (nearly finished) turrets: Scale freaks take note ( ) - the grid things are sitting on is 1cm. Mike
  11. It sort of does... There's a couple of pin-holes that appear to match up perfectly with the transparent blister.
  12. That makes sense. Blu tack would be the obvious sticking mechanism, and I hear what you say about rotation speed. Mind you, if I could get the bomb stable at 10000rpm it wouldn't take long to get the stripes on!
  13. Hmmm I could give it a go although I'm not sure I have a collet for my Dremel that can cope with the size of these bombs. Unless I'm missing something obvious, which is entirely possible...
  14. Feel free to follow! It's a long drawn out war of attrition, I have just completed assembly (not painting) of the fuselage, one side solid and one side transparent with the framing highlighted. If I ever did it again I'd consider drilling and filing out the skin to leave the framework. Probably stop at considering, though! I painted the bomb load IJN green (its a great substitute for British Bronze Green) and then hand painted on the arming stripes (red and grey). But I think they look too bad even to represent swiftly applied markings from an armourer. Does anyone know a good trick for applying reasonably even rings onto the nose of bombs? I have lettering masks in production at the moment to do PO-S as she is in Hendon, with paddle-blade props. I think patching the windows on the solid plastic side will need very careful filling and polishing, to avoid losing the exquisite surface detail. Letters should be a highly attractive red-with-a-yellow-surround. Mike
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