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  1. Past hour
  2. Hello Dears, Engraving that old Hasegawa -4 and adding more realistics exhaust pipes.... More of that Corsairy to come..... Sincerely. CC
  3. Morning All, so not a huge amount on this recently since I've been away a few times on business and have made a huge push to get another build finished and RFI'd (here). Incidentally, by the time summer is out, this year I'll have been to almost the most extreme northerly, southerly, easterly, and westerly points within Europe (Arctic circle in Sweden, Nardo Technical Centre in Italy, Black Sea coast in Bulgaria, and the Algarve in Portugal). So what have I actually managed on this then? Well, I've clad the main landing gear bays with etch using some of an Eduard B-2 Undercarriage kit. Plenty left over for other future builds, as well as this one too. I'm thinking to remake the landing gear doors from brass since the resin would scale up to something like 50cm thick! I plan to add some cabling and maybe some small junction boxes, but thats it really. I've also put the cockpit together and painted and etched it with the Sea Venom kit from Eduard. Once the seats go in I'll also put a centre armrest/console in the middle with some more controls, and probably a little gunsight for the pilot, but as it stands I'm quite happy with it. I've scribed some much needed detail on the wings, canards and tail fins. The difference is like night and day, although I suspect I may have been a little overzealous in how deep I scored the surface (still learning how much is enough), but we'll see once I prime them. Below you can see before and after (left/right). Fuselage is still to do, but I'll tackle that once I've sorted all the seams. And in lieu of finishing the T.4 recently, I was idly wondering what style of 56 Sqn scheme would look right, and on the basis that I've decided to go with NMF it seemed obvious that the tail fin was going to be the dealbreaker. So I traced one of them, whipped out the crayons and started to play. I then found some 3-views online and printed them off to play with whole vehicle schemes. I think I'm pretty much decided on F, G or J for tail scheme, and, while I like the Firebirds display scheme I think the last 3-view for whole vehicle is more appropriate. Having scoured the Web looking at RAF Cold War Jets I'm assuming that RAF doctrine is to place side marking, roundels, and tags on the most visible spot from any angle? Hence putting them mid-way on the fuselage between canard and wing. Thoughts on colours and schemes everyone?? One question though, regarding twin tail fins. I know that the colours and flag insignia are on both inner and outer surfaces (a la Lancaster etc), but what about the tag (A, B, C etc) and Sqn markings (chequer and firebird roundel)?
  4. That is a really gorgeous MiG-21, Iulian. The Eduard range of Fishbeds is very interchangeable and can produce great results with some added modelling skill, as you clearly have. You mentioned the FL. I attempted one: Martin
  5. It is very suprising as Revell typically not only aims for the experienced modeler but more or less a bit for everyone. That’s their market in Germany. For that the new Condor livery is definitely too complicated, no matter how. Decals won’t really work on the complex shape, especially the nose. And yeah painting needs definitely more than a bit of experience. So a surprising choice indeed. But might be useful to have good decals for a Condor 321, as I said n another thread the Nazca ones are not great (as usual).
  6. Very well done, and a nice serie too. Alain
  7. Wonderful! I'll try and see if I can find this ESCI box in the future, for now I'm too busy finishing this project before the modelling season ends. Time's running... Mazzels, Rob
  8. Hi Can’t answer your question but if it’s of any interest a new book titled ‘Q Birds - American manned aircraft as drones’ is due to be published in the next month or so by Frederick A Johnsen. Fascinating subject.
  9. Today
  10. Hi. Just some picture to show that I've now bought the last sections for my paint rack. 2 racks for AK Real Color pots, of which one of them will be adapted to take AK Xtreme metal colours. 20240318_183527 by Bosse Persson, on Flickr And 13 rack for 60 ml bottles, which I'm using for Mr Paint bottles. 20240318_183440 by Bosse Persson, on Flickr So now I'm yearning for the arrival of Spring, so I can get back to my cottage and start getting these racks together. I'll give them a light sanding and then glue them together and then spray paint them white as the rest of them. When finished my paint rack will be 5½ sections wide built in an angle, and 4 sections high. To be continued..... /Bosse
  11. Really atmospheric and realistic.
  12. With a title such as "Mirage IIIO 1/32 scratchbuild how could I not be curious and with the author being Bandsaw Steve I thought I should pull up a chair early on into this build and support you...😉 As ever Steve I find your builds absolutely fascinating and no matter how much you whittle away it always seems fresh to see, the litho plate work is something new too, great work! I have had a marathon catch up and enjoyed every post but the most satisfying part is seeing that at 2 years your builds are as glacial as mine, we must be kindred spirits....🤪🤣 The man cave looks superb, top dollar in fact and a worthy investment. In these days of technology it is good to see that mankind's oldest building material is still kept relevant by people such as yourself in these modern times of 3D printing, PE and resin. Right, that's my grovelling done for being so tardy, crack on sir, more to do yet..😁
  13. Beautiful - a very interesting aircraft, built and painted expertly! I really like your exotic models and your polite and considerate way of posting them. I wished your self-imposed rule would be observed by some mass producers:
  14. Excellent, building one at the moment, Whats a "Offset Prop"?
  15. Never heard of Hechizosuix Productions but the fuel tank is also made by Maestro Models https://www.rebell.com/saab-32-lansen-belly-tank.html
  16. The P.1127 (not a Kestrel) is not radically different from the original Airfix GR.1 kit -- i.e., incredibly basic, needs some effort to add details, but the shapes are sound and can be made into a satisfying replica. Note of course that virtually no two P.1127s were alike and they were constantly being revised during testing, so you have to decide which one you want to build. The kit gives you a couple of options but there's plenty more that could be done, but mostly you will need to do some quantity of scratch-building (and decal-sourcing)! Extra effort would be required to make a Kestrel. I've not yet made up my mind if it's easier to start with a P.1127 and upgrade, or a GR.1 and downgrade.
  17. Thanks @AdrianMF that's a great resource for my next project! I appreciate the time and examples! Some great points there. I am probably not softening the plastic enough before draping. I get it to shimmer/jiggle like jello under the heat gun but should go further. I did het a bit of bubbling in the teardrops. Yours look spectacular, by the way. As I am running out of time and panicking off and on, I have to commit to a form I have if I want to take this to the show on Sunday. It's far and I have to travel 7 hrs to Toronto, then a couple days later, a few more hours to Hamilton...all by bus with the model in my lap 🙄 I picked thru my stack of vacforms and found another that was a better shape. Stuffed it with its mould and tack around it for cutting. Used tape to outline cutting line a mm from the edges (blade has thickness) Seated mould into cut out vacform to do filing of the edges to refine the shape Masked up Painted. Looks a bit loose (esp since I cut out the escape panel) but when held in place, seems like a decent fit. Will cure overnight then quickshine and glue tomorrow. Yes we have some paint damage when removing masks... However, adding more primer in the paint sandwich (interior grey green, primer, dark earth) built up the ribs more and they look better than a thinner coat, and the primer filling gives them some interesting definition. Will try to fix the blips tomorrow. I plan to superglue the left side in place. Then superglue the right side. I think the hole in the top and flexible plastic will allow this. I can't see any other way to ensure I can get decent alignment. I need the glue bond to stand up to travel. Yes, the nose fell off. Again. I had given it a few days to cure the PVA then tonight added a bit of plastic putty around the seam, which I smoothed with a damp finger (dip in water then tap on cloth... so barely damp). And it just separated again and the triangles came out again. So repainted them and reglued them. I will have to resort to superglue tomorrow. I put it in the fridge to slow down the cure. Hope I can get it aligned quickly. I am riding a bit of a rollercoaster with moods. Hope I can get this silly thing finished in the next couple days.
  18. Thank you for the info and photos, Alan. I'm ramping up to do a Sunderland (Special Hobby Mk I/II kit) but I was hoping to do something other than the north Atlantic U-boat Hunters that usually get modeled. Im very interested in aircraft (not just Sunderlands) operating in southeast Asia, India, and over the Indian Ocean during world war Ii. I thought a 230 machine would be appropriate. Bit now I'm learning about squadrons operating from Kenya and Madagascar, which might be cool to model as well.
  19. Scooby: Three Chipmunks went (initially) to 444 (AOP) Sqn, RCAF c.1948. These were c/n 23, 24 and 25 which became 18001, 18002 and 18003. Around 1955 they went to 1 FTS and were re-coded as DA001, DA002 and DA003 respectively. They left RCAF service in 1957. These were all DHC-1A-1's, so they were NOT identical to British Chipmunks. Even the canopy framing was different; thinner, no jetisonable side panels and access handles on the centreline.
  20. Indeed, it's a fantastic footage. Never seen anything like that.
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