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Showing topics in WWI, Interwar, WWII, Cold War, Modern, Classic - up to 1968, Modern - 1969 and onwards, Work in Progress - Aircraft, Resources, Real Aviation, Aviation Photography, Aviation Art, Flight Sims, Magazines & Books, Ready for Inspection - Aircraft, Aircraft Reviews, Kits, Aftermarket (updates/conversions), Decals & Masks and Reference material posted in for the last 365 days.

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  2. Nice. If you’re doing rattle cans I really like the Montana black range that I get form my local aft store. I finished my Bristol racer with one of the reds, not a million miles from your savoia.
  3. Very nice, lovely aircraft and it looks great in that scheme. I almost went for it on my 1/32 version and seeing yours makes me want to get another one! Great modelling, well done.
  4. Re the gun heating question the small pipe coming from the back of the exhaust pipes runs down inside the cowling and along inside the 'D' section of the wing to the two outer brownings only (on both sides). The cannon bays were still heated from the back of the radiator. This info gleaned from Edgar and a number of other posts on here. I am surmising that the reason for this arrangement was the projected fitting of two cannons per bay and the need to heat these guns adequately. One thing I haven't been able to figure out is if the Mk I & II aircraft needed outer wing underside vents to extract the heat what happened to all the heat from the radiator and the exhausts? Regarding RAAF Mk Vc's they can be seen with and without the small pipe coming from the back of the exhaust so a photo of your intended victim is the only way to know for sure. HTH TRF
  5. I've discovered I'm missing the front circular fuselage bulkheads, but there are two others, for the middle and rear for support. I've filled the windows, and I'm about to remove this engine mounting point on the wings: This makes the engines hang lower than they should, to the point that they almost touch the ground.
  6. Ralph X72129 is Hannants own transfer sheet with 16, 18 20, 24, 30, 36 and 48 inch serials I am sure the larger one will supply big enough letters they are big enough to go under Canberra wings in 72th scale. Big H suggests they have over 50 in stock If you are having printer problems have you considered buying a red body colour decal sheet and cutting ribbons of the colour to make crosses? It is going to be worth all the hassle, the Wasp is becoming a little beast of beauty
  7. Ok, back to the Camel for bit. I admit I haven’t been particularly eager to get to this part of the build but the longer I put it off the harder it will be to get started. Before I looked into it a little deeper I suppose I had some vague notion that covering, say, a wing on one of these old timers was like slipping it in to a linen sheath and sewing up the open ends. Well not like that on this one. Panels are sewn together with what is called a “balloon” stitch which results in a raised bead like strip along the rib length. This is then covered with a strip of frayed rib tape. I used stretched spru and primer to simulate this effect on the empennage and now had to do the same on the wings, 28 times for each wing, and that’s just the top. I could have used a third hand on this job and experimented on a few ways that I might get it done reasonably quickly and neatly (read straight). This worked for me and after I had established a routine went pretty quickly. Masking tape was my third hand and I stuck the spru down at the leading edge, made sure it was tight along the pencil line and brushed on a little Tamiya extra thin. Not sure if I’ll do the wing bottom this way, might just do the tape effect.I’ll see how the tops go and then decide. Corrections and suggestions always welcome. http://www.johnsshawaviation.co.uk/wordpress/sopwith-camel-f1-2/sopwith-camel-reconstruction/covering/ Thanks for dropping in Dennis
  8. I'm planning on getting some paint on this later on after errands are done and child permitting. Can someone just check my working, please. I'm thinking spray highly diluted black first where the decals would show through the canvas, then a dark cote, mask the ribs, then a lighter cote of tan/canvas colour, remove tape from ribs, dust over with same light colour again. Does that sound right?
  9. How was the aircraft brought down in the first place?
  10. Absolutely but you have to go with what you think looks right otherwise it will drive you mad every time you pass your model shelf and as every paint manufacturer has a different idea and 90% of colours on a screen/monitor will differ from those in the bottle what can you do ? Even spraying , brush painting , thinning and undercoats are going to effect the colour. Most people will do a google search as i did for US interior green and come up with every different green ever invented, A lot of this is down to aircraft restorers as they are the colour pictures people use and they are all different, in researching my F6f i even found black interiors and a very light grey interior..and green instrument panels and cockpit greens ranging from almost fluorescent to olive drab
  11. "In no time" is a relative statement . This is a slow one for me. I have a mate who seems to rattle them out (to a pretty decent standard) in a matter of days. Must be using acrylics...
  12. Sounds like an ideal opportunity for the Hornby group: Airfix 1/32 kit and a Scalextric slot car version.
  13. Nice one Ray, she scrubs up just fine. I had a Lightning binge in 2003 - building this kit amongst 7 Lightnings that year. I was really put off by those cannon ports, and found an example with then skinned over. I've never had much success with acrylic silver metalics, but your brushed Revell silver acrylic looks superb. This model is kitchen foiled.
  14. That's a wonderful build, I love the paint and weathering
  15. Looks good from the shot I can see
  16. Today
  17. Thanks for the heads-up. I was working as a paper-boy when the kits first appeared in the newsagents and I could have fallen over backwards. It was the little legend or caption that appeared on the box-top that also appealed, grounding the subject and making them respectable to one's parents, I suppose, being 'historical' rather than just 'toys'.
  18. Crikey, that is a big decision to have to make especially after the length of service you had, I know what you mean about the going to bed early, I used to work shifts and get up at 0400 hrs for the early worm shift , it was nice finishing early but could never go to bed too early, always felt like I was missing out!!! Good luck with your build and I hope it can help to make you feel better too. All the best Chris
  19. Thank you, they will. I have already purchased the flight manual PDF which contains some of these pictures, but detailed pictures of this plane is hard to find.
  20. Great tip to use that empty marker pen. I don’t think I’ve seen that before.
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