Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

Aircraft Content

Showing topics in WWI, Interwar, WWII, Cold War, Modern, Classic, Modern, Work in Progress - Aircraft, Resources, Real Aviation, Aviation Photography, Aviation Art, Flight Sims, Magazines & Books, Ready for Inspection - Aircraft, Aircraft Reviews, Kits, Aftermarket (updates/conversions), Decals & Masks and Reference material posted in for the last 365 days.

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. Nice work on the internals, especially those seats - great job
  3. CedB

    Listening to the Solstice

    When you're ready Tony… we all know you have to earn a crust so that you can afford Telford next year! Looks like there's going to be a good US contingent, so not to be missed
  4. Yesterday
  5. Hairtrigger

    Me-262 B

    That is supurb... Viewed with envy as currently doing a Smer nightfighter version in 1:72. This is pretty basic and that's being generous.
  6. The smaller Dangerous Skies Exhibition at the Omaka Heritage Centre is adjacent to the Knights of the Sky Exhibition. The audio visual Stalingrad Experience is very thought provoking. Hurricane in its death throes. Engine ablaze, pilot has baled out. Canopy has detached (bottom right) The airworthy Avro Anson Diving Stuka Ryan Trainer temporarily in place of the P 40E Lydia Litvyak, female fighter ace, was reported missing after being shot down during the Battle of Kursk. At that time captured Russians were considered traitors by Stalin. As there was no proof that she had perished she was not awarded any recognition until 1990, when she was posthumously awarded Hero of the Soviet Union. Partly restored Yak 3 in the background Spitfire Mk 14- Was involved in an accident in 1996 but was returned to airworthiness in 2015 Bristol Freighter - Although not airworthy it certainly taxied as late as 2017
  7. Hairtrigger

    P-51

    That's a beauty..
  8. Hairtrigger

    P-47D

    Great result..
  9. Hairtrigger

    “DORA”

    Very nice...
  10. Very nice build there’s something about the A340-500/600 airframe. I’ve seen this actual aircraft at Zurich. Such a stunning scheme seeing it coming in at sunrise with the Swiss Alps as a backdrop
  11. It's as though a thousand voices cried out, "Stop faffing around having a life and get back to them Hawks!" then we suddenly silenced...
  12. Turbofan

    ilyushin Il-86 window decals

    Hi, There are windows on the Revell IL-86 decal sheet which aren't in a cheatline if you can get hold of one of those. http://ultra.glo.be/daco/R53Dg.jpg Alternatively, I would imagine you could use these https://www.authentic-airliner-decals.de/epages/17895661.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/17895661/Products/D144-01 Hope this helps. Cheers, Ian
  13. Vitaliy

    Harrier

    Add panel line's ...
  14. Yankymodeler

    1/48 B-70A

    Oh we have to get together! I'm in Winchester!
  15. And here you are after you Spitfire build. I find it refreshing, so crack on John, the subject looks interesting. Stuart
  16. Evening All, Due to the fact that I had left my manners by my breakfast plate when I last posted, I forgot to thank those of you who dropped by and left encouraging comments: I do appreciate them despite my lack of acknowledgement at the time. The saga continues.... watching paint dry is not the most exciting aspect of modelling but a necessary one. Especially when, as I do, a modeller uses acryllic paint and a hairy stick, and builds up several layers of very thin paint to try to get a perfectly smooth finish. 13 - 15 coats in this case on the wings. I took the precaution of masking the fuselage nacelle in a plastic bage to prevent any accidental brush strokes going astray. That was followed on the lower wing by the markings which in this case consist of a large white square, (which on the original aircraft covered an earlier Union Jack flag marking), and then a roundel which I had printed myself. Holes were drilled in the lower wing for struts and rigging. I have not drilled the holes for these features in the upper wing yet as I want to make absolutely certain that I get them in the right place first time. I intend to use white glue to hold the wing struts in place and then mark the locations for the holes in the top wing later when I have made the struts. The next step was to solder a length of brass rod to the rear spar to represent the boom which supports the tail. 4 ribs were slotted on to the spars first - these were pushed close to the nacelle so that they would not melt during soldering operations: they were pushed into place and CA'd afterwards. I anticipated that the soldering would be difficult because I had to get two orientations exactly right: the angle of the boom to the thrust line: it has to rise from the rear spar towards the tail; the angle in relation to the fore-aft line as the booms converge on to the rudder post. This was made relatively easy by inserting the boom into the rear of the starboard wing and resting it on a block of wood behing the wing and fuselage sub-assembly. I cut a piece of rod to the exact length of the port (left) boom and supported the front end against the back of the rear spar while resting the rear of the boom on the wood making sure that it touched the end of the opposite boom. This assembly was sitting above the scale plan so that I had an additional aid to get the alignment correct. Application of heat and solder followed and when it had cooled I found that the boom was just 0.5mm to far towards the wing tip! I can live with that....so after I had cleaned up the soldered joint with a file I added the remaining spars to the wing and CA'd them into place. I had to re-mask the fuselage nacelle and the starboard (right) wing with a plastic bag because I had to prime the brass bar of the wing spars and rod of the boom strut and I did not want to spray the wing and nacelle at the same time! I also added the strengtheners at each end of the trailing edge of the wing inboard of the aileron. Priming followed and then I removed the rear of the spars where the aileron will be and set these on one side as I will make both ailerons later. The wing leading edge bar was made from 40 thou plastic rod and the riblets from 10 x 20 thou strip as per the test piece described earlier. Painting followed with Revell Ocker (88) which had been watered approx 50:50. One coat was just right. Black was used for the reinforcement rods as these were metal on the original aircraft. To complete this stage of construction (but not the whole wing structure - that will come later), I added the rigging. The black line on the right of the second image is the frame of the nacelle. And now I can do all of this again on the top wing.... Thanks for looking. P
  17. WildeSau75

    Spitfire Mk. XVIe

    Nice build - like it with the open maintenance panels. Cheers, Michael
  18. Two points to watch. Re check the instructions, and tick off the parts as you fit them when it comes to the fuselage. It is easy to miss stuff, and make sure it is all in place before you fit the wings, and take care with the alignment at this point. When painting the intakes, after painting the silver compressor faces, I stuffed foam ear plugs as far back as they would go, and sprayed the white. When dry, I pulled them forwards so the grey could be sprayed. Simple and effective. When using the kit decals, like the stencils, they will tend to silver, even if you apply them with Klear. Replacements are the better option.
  19. WildeSau75

    Matchbox nostalgie

    Nice stuff. Definitely special. Cheers, Michael
  20. Courageous

    1:72 AZ Model Supermarine Attacker

    That gunsight is very similar to the K-14 I believe: A Quickboost part Stuart
  21. Michael Taylor

    Revell 1/48 Tornado F.3

    A little progress
  22. It is certainly worth it. The trick is you need to plan early as it is a popular show attracting a fair old crowd and Blenheim just ain't very big! Yep, they have eight flying Dr.Is in NZ... Seven of them are painted up in the colours of various Jasta 11 machines. While not all of these live at Omaka, they usually make a serious effort get 'the Maginificent Seven' all together for the CF show. The eighth is the black triplane of Jacobs(?) which does live at Omaka IIRC. They also have the D.VII on hand and an E.V/D.VIII flying razor has popped down for the show on occasion. In theory they could get ten Fokkers in the air I guess. (How many flying razors are there in NZ, one or two?)
  23. Another update on my dual build, progress has been a bit slow but I am getting there. Canopies were masked and Vallejo grey primer applied, however as the G-14A/S has natural metal panels on the underside of the wing gloss black primer was applied Then came the fun part of making good any blemishes, gaps and other slight imperfections. Thankfully not too many on these builds!! I re-sprayed where necessary with primer, when dry I polish the primer with a piece of denim (old Jeans!!) this gives a nice smooth finish for the top coats of paint. Then the underside of the G-14 was sprayed with Vallejo Metal paints, I masked off some panels and sprayed them with various shades of aluminium, looks better than one shade overall. The metal surfaces were masked and the flaps, ailerons, wing tips (undersides only of course) were sprayed RLM 76. I decided to use Mission Model paints for the final schemes excellent paints and not bad accuracy wise, I did have one criticism of these paints of which more later. As these were kits were Overtrees no masks were included but being a hoarder or should that be stingy?? I never throw used masks away but carefully remove them stick them back on the sheet and use them again. They seem to keep their adhesive qualities quite well so the masks for these 109s came from previous Eduard 109s I have built!! Now I was ready to apply the topcoat of paint. Both the machines had Defence of the Reich bands, the G-10 the green band of JG27 and the G-14 the white and green band of JG77. These were applied and masked off, the green RLM25 was from a jar of the old Aeromaster paint I still had. Undersurfaces and lower fuselage sides of the G-10 were sprayed MM paints RLM76 with 10% white (scale colour). The G-14 was one of those great patchwork schemes of the late war Luftwaffe machines, besides the unpainted wing the nose underside was RLM76. The remainder of the fuselage the so called RLM84 (a variation of RLM76) again I used an old jar of Aeromaster paint I had, not a bad match for this colour I thought. Now I usually use paper masks I cut out for the top surfaces camouflage patterns held on with tape and blue tack but have never been entirely happy with this method!! So looking for a substitute, other than the ,I think, expensive pre-cut masks I remember seeing the Tamiya sheets of masking. So bought a pack (one of the reasons for the delay) it's the same material Tamiya use for the masks in their own kits. To work I drew round an Eduard 109 wing and then drew in the camouflage pattern, then cut them out and applied them. As you may observe I don't try to replicate the overspray between the colours as I don't think it would be in scale on a 1/48 model. However I do replicate the sprayed effect on the fuselage, however this is where I began to lose my patience with the MM paints. It does not seem to like being sprayed on sparingly! It was a case of cleaning the airbrush needle after each short burst of paint, it took me an age to get the mottle on to these 109s. I tried thinning the paint and that didn't help, lowering the pressure that didn't help. Has anybody else had this experience with these paints?? Well that's it for now hopefully next update a bit sooner . Cheers Andy
  24. Tramatoa

    Flying a council house from the upstairs loo

    Phone Phixer thanks for that, to be honest we didn’t have a lot to do with the system other than removing and refitting the floats and pumping up the triple decker lilo in the back. The float cans would be removed before towing and placed in the cabin doorway on the winchie’s kneeling mat. Blade tape (or Mylar tape in civvie street) was a constant pain in the backside. In heavy rain or hail they would loose a lot of it and you could hear it whistling as the aircraft approached, when he shutdown sometimes there would be strips hanging off or gone completely. MEK was the only thing that would touch the adhesive and I still suffer with splits in my thumbs in cold weather thirty odd years later. I did the last ever blade repair course at Yeovil after they discovered a spare pair of Iraqi blades (they had static discharges on the tip caps). We spent a week cleaning and replacing the leading edge rubber and two weeks recovering from the solvent induced hangover. COSH? I should coco!
  25. robvulcan

    Raf c-47 Dakota Italeri

    Many thanks dude was great seeing you at Telford and life gets better day by day. Especially when you change your mindset. I should have a few more over the line soon. Looking forward to more shows soon. all the best Rob
  26. RidgeRunner

    Reverse painted SEA camouflage, I'm curious ;)

    That's right, Des. The standard approved pattern varied hugely, while keeping the colours within the correct segments. Therefore the colours appeared in the same areas of each aircraft while maintaining the same outline pattern. The F-105s differed as colours were superimposed while keeping the pattern. Martin
  1. Load more activity
×