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TeeELL

Gold Member
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About TeeELL

  • Rank
    Established Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Highworth, Wilts
  • Interests
    Cuban Airforce, aircraft I flew, Armour of WW1.

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  1. TeeELL

    Original Airfix jet provost T3

    I’ve just read the bits in ‘From Jet Provost to Strikemaster’. The 3rd pre-production T Mk 2 (G-23-1) became the prototype T Mk 3. Rearranged cockpit with central instrument panel, single piece clear vision wind screen with Mk 2 sliding hood. A photograph shows ot with the wing fillet. the fillet remained on some early production aircraft. The T Mk3 was fitted for wing tip tanks and the cockpit for MB Mk 4P ejection seats. The Rebecca Mk8 was fitted.
  2. TeeELL

    TeeELL's RWY Sherman III

    There is no update on my Dragon Sherman because I am building its 1/72 equivalent for a ‘blitzbau’ on another site. But I guess it counts for here as well so I will upload some photos in due course.
  3. TeeELL

    TeeELL's RWY Sherman III

    Thanks Bull-nut for ‘light muddying’ the water :-). It is surprising that such, relatively, recent history is still shrouded in mystery. It is difficult that RWY seem to have had the ‘posed’ photographs taken at the same time. I can imagine that the Colonel wanted the ‘new’ named Shermans to be recorded so I would surmise that they were freshly painted. In my mind the desert pink and blue/black seem the ‘right colours’ but I have olive green and could apply that.
  4. TeeELL

    TeeELL's RWY Sherman III

    I agree with you, desert pink will be applied and blue/black used as the disruptive.
  5. TeeELL

    TeeELL's RWY Sherman III

    Thanks Sarg. Sorry I couldn’t be more helpful with the horn. I am not sure I like ‘Light mud’, I might have to go for ‘Desert pink’.
  6. TeeELL

    TeeELL's RWY Sherman III

    I would be most appreciative if any 'Shermanoholic' could give me a stear on what the return rollers would have looked like (ie steel painted and worn on the roller surface?) the Idler - similar? My Sherman II will be 'as newly issued' to RWY in Syria, so I'll not be even dipping my toe into much weathering for this build.
  7. TeeELL

    TeeELL's RWY Sherman III

    Just to prove that I have been busy, here is a photo of my tank with the first coat of 'Light mud' applied. These are the major components, obviously, but all the other bits that required 'Light mud' have also been airbrushed. A second coat will go on this morning. Light mud (by Colourcoats) is a vaguely green grey colour. The disruptive colour I am planning to use is 'Blue/black' also by Colourcoats.
  8. TeeELL

    M3/M4 Medium tank reference thread

    Sgt Squarehead, my list is of features that I can readily identify - I am a total 'Sherman' novice so the finer points are beyond me. Some of the photographs I have include the crew sat on the front of the tanks obscuring details (HIGHWORTH in particular). I gues, as I do not know what the horn looks like I would have difficulty determining if it is fitted or not - sorry. Bonhoff, The Caunter scheme was formally cancelled by G.O.1272 of 6th December 1941 and many vehicles prior to that date had not had the scheme applied. G.O.1272 introduced a simplified paint scheme using Light Stone or Portland stone as the base colour and a single disruptive colour. With the arrival of the M3 Grants and Lees in early 1942 you will see that the camouflage applied would be that of the latter G.O. so no Caunter. For further details see Mike Starmer's books on the subject (the information given here if courtesy of his book on 'The Caunter Scheme')
  9. TeeELL

    TeeELL's RWY Sherman III

    I have had to disassemble and rework the front end of the sand skirts as the 2 pieces did not sit well together. I would say that this is one area where an injection of ‘extra skill’ is required, trouble is I couldn’t find any but the latest bodge seems OK, as long as you don’t look too closely. I had hoped to lay down some primer yesterday, but I realised there were a few more bits to add before hand. I hope to fire up the airbrush on Monday.
  10. TeeELL

    TeeELL's RWY Sherman III

    Ozzy, the very best of luck, especially with getting parts MA12 and MA20 as well as MA6 and MA21 to fit together. Top tip, if you are going to solder, make sure everything is at right angles and don't spread the solder too close to the 'parts joining places'. Oh, I used cyno the join the aformentioned pieces. I mentioned using Viakal limescale remover to remove the oxidation from the PE. I have a photo of the result. I brushed the viakal on, left it momentarily and washed it off. You might be able to see the effect: It is the piece of PE on the left side of the photo just above centre. The result is more obvious in reality. In addition I soldered the 'Sun shield' supports into place - soldered because of the way the fold is created and to ensure they remained in place.. The method I used was to tin the bar within the etched markings, add the bracket such that the 'join' in the fold was against the bar and then applied flux and the soldering iron whilst pressing the bracket down. I has biased the tinning such that there was a little more solder at the 'join' end so ensure the solder worked into and secured that join. It worked on all but 2 brackets so I had to use a tiny piece of solder against the loose end and allow capillary action to carry it into place. A scrape, wet&dry and fibre pen cleaned everything up, time consuming but worthit as the brackets are not going anywhere.
  11. TeeELL

    Heller 72nd Sherman M4 * Finished *

    Great stuff there, I am taking onboard all the comments as I am planning on doing the M4A2 “Divsion Leclerc” version as a Royal Wiltshire Yeomanry Sherman III for the blitz bau!
  12. OK, I have started a new thread to highlight the way of getting the PE sand skirts on the Dragon Sherman III positioned correctly. In the first instance, the instructions leave a great deal to be desired and, as I have found, it is all too easy to end-up with things out of position. If you follow these steps you will avoid the pitfalls: It is important to work from the rear of the tank forward. 1. Construct parts MA7 and MA1. 2. Position part MA11 on the side of the tank and lightly scribe along the top section (this will give a reference line 2mm above the base of the plastic side). Repeat with part MA5 on starboard side. 3. Position part MA7 such that the top aligns with the scribed mark, scribe a vertical line at the forward edge. Repeat with part MA1. 4. Position MA11 such that the forward edge aligns with the vertical scribed line - now the easy part!! Glue in place. Repeat with MA5. 5. Now place MA9 and then MA3 in line such that they butt up to their respective MA11 and MA5. 6. Repeat the above with parts MA10 and MA4. Having completed the above you now have a fighting chance of lining up parts MA7, MA8 and MA12 port side (MA1, MA2 & MA6 stbd side) along the previously fitted PE. Again, start from the rear and work forward. WARNING: Before fitting MA12 and MA6 you need to fiddle around with MA20 and MA21 to ensure they sit and join properly, two pairs of hand are particularly helpful at this stage. I hope this is helpful as I didn't do this and things are OK but do not quite line up. See my build thread. MODERATORS: If this thread is in the wrong place then please move accordingly.
  13. TeeELL

    TeeELL's RWY Sherman III

    Having put the sand skirts on I am now in a position to recommend the order of construction as it doesn't match the 'instructions'! I have posted the order of construction in a separate topic, rather than have it hidden within this.
  14. TeeELL

    TeeELL's RWY Sherman III

    I have been a bit lax on this build since the discussion on soldering. the 6 pieces that require soldering to make the forward and rear parts of the sand guard have been completed and attached. I would say that the Dragon instructions on their fitment lacks detail and it is far too difficult to try and dry fit the forward halves of the sand guard - you rather have to 'take the plunge' and hope for the best! Sure there are etch places which should match their neighbour but it is all a bit hit and miss. This is the etch cleaned and ready for tinning. I have since discovered a simpler way to remove the tarnish - dip the etch in VIAKAL solution and then wash it off. Here you can see the tiny bits of solder cut and positioned ready for the soldering iron A bit dirty but the solder has now tinned either side of the fold. All folded and soldered. Here the end pieces have been attached using super glue a couple more view follow: I used the baking soda method to set the cyno on the rear sand guards but I shall run a bead of Araldite around the inside once I have fitted the centre sections.
  15. TeeELL

    TeeELL's RWY Sherman III

    Guys, can I suggest that further questions be fielded in the appropriate section please. After all, this thread is about my Sherman III build.
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