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TeeELL

Gold Member
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About TeeELL

  • Rank
    Established Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Highworth, Wilts
  • Interests
    Cuban Airforce, aircraft I flew, Armour of WW1.

Recent Profile Visitors

908 profile views
  1. I have received my 1/72 resin replacement ‘rear end’ for improving the Airfix FAW9. It is a fair lump of resin and, apparently, weighs in at 50gms; that will require a fair bit of weight in the nose - hope the U/C legs can take it. I now just have to dig out the model and get stuck in improving it - to replace the one I constructed previously.
  2. What the photographs show is the tail end of the aircraft without the engines. So that is airframe essentially. The re-heat nozzles of the jet pipes would not connect to any part of what you see other than the rear engine supports.
  3. I shall be using the Loco Green on an Airfix ‘City of Truro’ (my grandfather drove CoT during the period 1957-1961 on ‘specials’.
  4. Mark, I have R201 GWR Loco Green and R205 GWR Loco Indian Red.
  5. As an F4 pilot on 29(F) Sqn, it was always said that the XXX was because, in the mists of time, a Boss had instructed a painter to apply XX and one X to the aircraft ( ie XXIX = 29), the, slightly confused painter had applied an X an X and another X. Of course this was nonsense as, in the years of ‘Silver Wings’, 29(F) had flown: Siskins, Bulldogs and Demons with XXXXXX adorned on the upper surfaces of the top wings and any number of ‘X’s on the fuselages. However, the X was not carried forward from The Great War as 29 has been allocated a vertical white stripe! Hope thissuitably muddies the water!
  6. I’ve just read the bits in ‘From Jet Provost to Strikemaster’. The 3rd pre-production T Mk 2 (G-23-1) became the prototype T Mk 3. Rearranged cockpit with central instrument panel, single piece clear vision wind screen with Mk 2 sliding hood. A photograph shows ot with the wing fillet. the fillet remained on some early production aircraft. The T Mk3 was fitted for wing tip tanks and the cockpit for MB Mk 4P ejection seats. The Rebecca Mk8 was fitted.
  7. There is no update on my Dragon Sherman because I am building its 1/72 equivalent for a ‘blitzbau’ on another site. But I guess it counts for here as well so I will upload some photos in due course.
  8. Thanks Bull-nut for ‘light muddying’ the water :-). It is surprising that such, relatively, recent history is still shrouded in mystery. It is difficult that RWY seem to have had the ‘posed’ photographs taken at the same time. I can imagine that the Colonel wanted the ‘new’ named Shermans to be recorded so I would surmise that they were freshly painted. In my mind the desert pink and blue/black seem the ‘right colours’ but I have olive green and could apply that.
  9. I agree with you, desert pink will be applied and blue/black used as the disruptive.
  10. Thanks Sarg. Sorry I couldn’t be more helpful with the horn. I am not sure I like ‘Light mud’, I might have to go for ‘Desert pink’.
  11. I would be most appreciative if any 'Shermanoholic' could give me a stear on what the return rollers would have looked like (ie steel painted and worn on the roller surface?) the Idler - similar? My Sherman II will be 'as newly issued' to RWY in Syria, so I'll not be even dipping my toe into much weathering for this build.
  12. Just to prove that I have been busy, here is a photo of my tank with the first coat of 'Light mud' applied. These are the major components, obviously, but all the other bits that required 'Light mud' have also been airbrushed. A second coat will go on this morning. Light mud (by Colourcoats) is a vaguely green grey colour. The disruptive colour I am planning to use is 'Blue/black' also by Colourcoats.
  13. Sgt Squarehead, my list is of features that I can readily identify - I am a total 'Sherman' novice so the finer points are beyond me. Some of the photographs I have include the crew sat on the front of the tanks obscuring details (HIGHWORTH in particular). I gues, as I do not know what the horn looks like I would have difficulty determining if it is fitted or not - sorry. Bonhoff, The Caunter scheme was formally cancelled by G.O.1272 of 6th December 1941 and many vehicles prior to that date had not had the scheme applied. G.O.1272 introduced a simplified paint scheme using Light Stone or Portland stone as the base colour and a single disruptive colour. With the arrival of the M3 Grants and Lees in early 1942 you will see that the camouflage applied would be that of the latter G.O. so no Caunter. For further details see Mike Starmer's books on the subject (the information given here if courtesy of his book on 'The Caunter Scheme')
  14. I have had to disassemble and rework the front end of the sand skirts as the 2 pieces did not sit well together. I would say that this is one area where an injection of ‘extra skill’ is required, trouble is I couldn’t find any but the latest bodge seems OK, as long as you don’t look too closely. I had hoped to lay down some primer yesterday, but I realised there were a few more bits to add before hand. I hope to fire up the airbrush on Monday.
  15. Ozzy, the very best of luck, especially with getting parts MA12 and MA20 as well as MA6 and MA21 to fit together. Top tip, if you are going to solder, make sure everything is at right angles and don't spread the solder too close to the 'parts joining places'. Oh, I used cyno the join the aformentioned pieces. I mentioned using Viakal limescale remover to remove the oxidation from the PE. I have a photo of the result. I brushed the viakal on, left it momentarily and washed it off. You might be able to see the effect: It is the piece of PE on the left side of the photo just above centre. The result is more obvious in reality. In addition I soldered the 'Sun shield' supports into place - soldered because of the way the fold is created and to ensure they remained in place.. The method I used was to tin the bar within the etched markings, add the bracket such that the 'join' in the fold was against the bar and then applied flux and the soldering iron whilst pressing the bracket down. I has biased the tinning such that there was a little more solder at the 'join' end so ensure the solder worked into and secured that join. It worked on all but 2 brackets so I had to use a tiny piece of solder against the loose end and allow capillary action to carry it into place. A scrape, wet&dry and fibre pen cleaned everything up, time consuming but worthit as the brackets are not going anywhere.
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