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About MeneMene

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  1. MeneMene

    [yet another] 1:48 Tamiya F4U-1a

    Wonderful work. Could you review again your method for working the hairspray chipping with MRP? The exact steps and materials? I've been trying it and can never get it to work, it dries too hard/impermeable and I can't get the water to activate it. Another thing; I can see how you did the paintwork on the wings, but what about the fading on the forward/upper fuselage? Is that chipping with two different shades of blue?
  2. I agree. It just seemed like such an unlikely coincidence that it would be more likely for a replacement aircraft to be given the old tail code, hence why I'm checking if it's the same aircraft. So if the pictures have been touched up, which one should I emulate? I'm aiming for a late summer 1942 Rabaul aircraft, over Guadalcanal, and the Osprey "Betty Units of WW2" book captions the first, black and white photograph as in that time frame. The second image has been colorized- you think whoever did that also added the paint chipping and yellow wing ID stripes?
  3. Strange, they were showing up fine for me. I edited the links, hopefully they work now.
  4. I'm looking into recreating G4M1 "F-319" of the 4th Kokutai. I have found two pictures: First image. Some chipping has started to develop around the tail, maybe some around the engine nacelles, otherwise not much weathering going on. I've seen captions in a few places saying that this aircraft was one of the ones involved in the disastrous Feb 20, 1942 attack on the Lexington, ending with 15 out of 16 aircraft shot down, which based on the subsequent second picture and information, suggests that it was the only one from the unit that survived. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitsubishi_G4M#/media/File:Mitsubishi_G4M_Betty.jpg Second image. Much lower resolution, but you can clearly see the aircraft is much more beat up. The chipping now involves the full height of the stabilizer, with a lot more on the fuselage, engines, etc. The only caption I've been able to find for this aircraft is that it's from the 801 Air Group, which doesn't make much sense as that was a seaplane squadron and its wiki page doesn't mention any G4M usage. If the tail-codes match, should I just assume that this in fact the same aircraft with a very charmed life at different stages of wear and tear? The second image has yellow wing recognition stripes, can't tell on the first. If it is the same aircraft, I guess I need to choose if I want to recreate the earlier example with less weathering and a torpedo for the Feb 1942 operations, or the more weathered and beat-up later incarnation with bombs for operations around Guadalcanal. Any more information would be appreciated.
  5. I have the Tamiya Meteor F1 up next, and the cockpit is very crude and simple. Eduard doesn't have much PE for it, and I can't find any resin detail sets. Any suggestions? Is the old Eduard PE set (48211) really my best option? Thanks
  6. MeneMene

    [yet another] 1:48 Tamiya F4U-1a

    What sort of wire did you use in the landing gear?
  7. MeneMene

    [yet another] 1:48 Tamiya F4U-1a

    Glad to hear it was a success. The CR42 ship has sailed, unfortunately, the kit engine was meant to be mounted from the cowling structure (from the front), and that cowling was in several pieces. The detail of the kit engine wasn't too bad, so I just went with that plus some extra wiring. Now, what to use a spare A-74 on.....
  8. MeneMene

    Hurricane IIc with two cannons removed?

    Thanks. In AK-W, any idea what the dark color under the K is? I'm guessing the rest of it is the standard middle stone/dark earth
  9. I have the 1/48 Hasegawa Hurricane IIc. The kit has two marking options available; one of 94 Sqdn, GO-J, BP389. The kit says that the aircraft should have all four cannons, but I found this picture: I think they mixed up the serial numbers; BP389 is the foreground aircraft, GO-G, and it has two cannons removed. GO-J is in the background, but I can't see the wing or make out the serial. Next option is one with 213 Sqdn, AK-W, HL887 This is the right aircraft at least. Hasegawa says the aircraft should only have two cannons. 1) Am I correct in seeing that AK-W has two cannons removed as well? I think that's the case, but it's hard to see from the photo, and the only other picture is from the back and you can't see anything. 2) In this field modification of removing the outer cannons, what went in its place? Was it just smoothly faired over as if the gun wasn't there? The kit comes with red gun-tape decals to go over those sections, so were they replaced by some Brownings instead? Some flight simulator representations has them smoothly faired over, while the hasegawa instructions have the red gun-tape, maybe suggesting there's supposed to be a machine gun there instead? I can't find any photographs. Any suggestions?
  10. MeneMene

    [yet another] 1:48 Tamiya F4U-1a

    Good job. Any idea on how easy/difficult it will be to mount the engine? I'm working on the Italeri Fiat CR42, and I had a nice vector resin engine I was going to use for it, but set it aside because of the complicated way the kit had engineered the fit of the engine, exhaust, and cowling panels.
  11. MeneMene

    "Bar rigging" (is that the right term) 1930's biplanes

    Ok thanks. On that note, I think the Avia rigging isn't quite the same as RAF flat rigging, it looks more like a rod. I still think regular elastic line would be too fine for it, but I can try
  12. MeneMene

    "Bar rigging" (is that the right term) 1930's biplanes

    Would the prym wire be appropriate for 1/48 scale? Most of the references for it that I've seen are 1/32 builds I got the tamiya photoetch stuff to work on the Swordfish, but I agree that approach is generally ineffective.
  13. What's the best way to recreate interwar rigging, like the type you see on the Swordfish, where the rigging isn't cables so much as it is metal bars under tension? Tamiya provides a photoetch set for this for it's swordfish, but that's not available for every kit. I'm working on an Avia B.534, and it too has this thick "bar" rigging as opposed to just cables. See this image for reference [/img] Thanks
  14. MeneMene

    [yet another] 1:48 Tamiya F4U-1a

    I'm also seeing 52.8 inches for the R2800 diameter. In the Tamiya P-47D (the only R2800) kit I have, the engine measures 1.01 inches diameter in 1/48 scale. I also have the Vector resin representation. It's unbuilt, so difficult to measure now, but each of the cylinders is 0.28 inches long from the point at which they leave the hub. From what I've seen, all the quickboost R2800's have this problem, and the only difference between them is the mounting backing for different kits. Sorry to set you off on this, the engine looks great so far. I had the same reaction when I was building my Hellcat- I never got to painting/detailing it, but when test fitting I thought it looked awfully tiny for such a big airplane. From the options you've listed, I think the best solution would be to combine the Verlinden fronts into the two banks of cylinders. Barring that, maybe spring for the Vector one? It's not super expensive.
  15. MeneMene

    [yet another] 1:48 Tamiya F4U-1a

    It was a few years ago, I don't remember the exact ratio, but it was severely underscale, could be seen when next to the kit engine without any measuring. Hopefully yours is OK, your work so far has been great.