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  1. Hopefully it's not too late in your construction process, but I don't believe the engine should have that ring in front of it. I think Tamiya and other companies have inaccurately based that on some modern anti-fire equipment on restored airworthy Swordfish. If you look at period aircraft or other museum birds, they only feature the support struts and not the ring that sits in front of the cylinders.
  2. Oh dear. That's a lot of fixes for something I had hoped would be a quick build. That scribing work is excellent- can I ask what you use for tools/guides?
  3. Thanks for the info! I'm building the "Bella" combo boxing for Soviet P-39. Comes with the usual Eduard profipack photoetch, but as you said, no metal nose weight. In it's absence, I was thinking of just tracing out and recreating a roof with plastic sheet and cutting a slit in it for the propeller shaft to pass through, if nothing else just to hide all the fishing weights I will need. What are the major faults of the kit? I've got some resin exhausts and propeller set, but otherwise OOB. Anything glaring that should be corrected?
  4. Hello- Working on the Eduard P-39. The nose wheel bay doesn't appear to have any sort of ceiling, it's just empty space. I would imagine you'd at least be able to see the cannon barrel and some other equipment. I also need some way to hide the mass of nose weight I'll need to prevent tail sitting. Does anyone have any ideas of what sort of structure would be at the top of the wheel bay, or better yet, any reference pics? Thanks
  5. Hello- I believe it was the Eduard French seat belts PE set
  6. I'm working on the Airfix 1/48 Walrus; got a set of aftermarket seat belts. They seem to be representing lap belts without a shoulder harness, but the seem comically large and oversized? Is this really correct? It's the Eduard set. Any reference photos of the real thing? I've seen interior pics of the one at the FAA museum but that example is missing a ton of internal fittings so I'm not sure i'd fully trust it.
  7. Yes. As pictured is the "open" position of the hatch. Yes. This is the open position of the hatch. The hinge points are immediately below the gun
  8. I'm working on the 1/350 Hasegawa Mikasa with the lovely Pontos detail set. I've spend the past few months carefully setting up the walkway and booms that hold the torpedo net. I plan to have the net stowed, so the booms are folded against the hull. I'm planning on recreating the rolled up net with a folded/rolled length of nylon tights. The thing I'm not sure of is what sort of diameter the net is supposed to have. The problem I'm running into is that the 6 inch battery guns have a hatch that falls out and rests against the torpedo net walkway like so: This doesn't leave much space for the net to pass underneath it. Would the rolled up net be small enough to fit in that space? Phrased differently, should I make things work so that I glue the hatches so that they fold all the way down to touch the walkway, or would the hatches be resting on top of the torpedo net and leave a gap?
  9. Main issue was some rough/grainy texture of the plastic in certain areas. Easily fixable with some sanding but still a bit annoying. I also had the same thing on the Zvezda Pe-2. The kit lacks some major detail around the lower bomb-aiming windows; there should be some internal structure/ribbing visible through them, I think they were integrated into the flaps. Wasn't aware of that at the time (sources for this aircraft are difficult to obtain in English), so my representation of that area is a bit crude and simplistic. Other than that, the kit was pretty straightforward. I did put in a lot of the work and time into some resin corrections (Vector wheel well + engine/cowling) which made the kit considerably more difficult, but OOB I don't anticipate you having many problems).
  10. Hello- I'm working on Zvezda's Su-2. I'm depicting an aircraft that from profiles is stated as Serial # 070105 of the 43rd Bomber Air Regiment in the winter of 41-42. I've only been able to find color/profiles. The decal instructions that I have for this example show the whitewash to be limited to the rear/fuselage and tail, extending somewhat onto the wing roots. However, several other builds I've seen of the same plane, and some artwork, has showed the whitewash also applied to the rear of the wings. Does anyone have guidance on which way I should go, or better yet a photo of the actual aircraft in question? Thanks in advance for any assistance
  11. So I've been wading through what research I can find and the multiple forum and blog posts by Nick Millman/Aviation of Japan, and have been getting progressively more confused. I'm working on a B6N and have been struggling to get the upper green looking right, and am puzzled as to what to use on the underside. I made a color swatch from the paints I had and scanned it: 1) Upper surfaces: D1 vs D2 green; from what I gather, XF-11 is meant to represent D1(the darker of the two), and XF-70 is meant to represent D2. Now, which to use? Some paint manufacturers/online posts say nakajima used one, mitsubishi used the other, some say they were more interchangable? Here is my initial attempt, using primarily the Gunze C-15. I'm not entirely happy with it, I think it looks too green. Some of that comes from some very diluted lighter paints I put on to give some color variation; super dark colors are hard to make convincing. Would a B6N likely be more like D1 or D2, or is it a purely academic question? Any suggestions for the color? I could make it darker by going over it with some of the XF-11/D1 2) Underside: I gather this is supposed to be J3 grey? I've seen this as being a almost neutral grey like the C53 in my color scan, to a pistaschio green like C128. The instructions recommend gunze C56, and this is a very green gray. I don't have it, but I can get it, looks pretty close to the C128 I do have. The only other model in these colors is a Nakajima-built A6M5 that I tried to represent as relatively new and unfaded: I think I used base colors of XF-11 over C53 grey. Based on what I've found now, I believe the gray is too gray and not enough green. Would this and the B6N have had the same underside color, or was there variation between the above grey green to the more neutral green I have? 3) Any suggestions on what the other colors are supposed to represent? XF-76 is what I've been using to represent early war ash-grey Zero overall color. Not sure what the difference is between Dark Green (Nakajima) C129 and IJN Green (Nakajima) C15 in the Mr Color range. XF-12 might be trying to represent the underside J3? Maybe C128 is meant to also be the overall ash-grey early Zero color, or maybe the similar army paint used overall on Ki-27?
  12. As far as I'm aware, the ring you see in front of the engine in current day Swordfish (which is inaccurately copied onto model kits) is part of the modern fire extinguishing system. The ring should be removed for a WW2 Swordfish.
  13. Thanks, I'll go with yellow then. I saw that specification earlier than only discontinued the stripes in 1943, but lots (most, even) of the photos of wildcats from before that clearly have the yellow tips.
  14. Hello- Does anybody know when the USN tri-color propeller tips were phased out? I'm doing a Midway Wildcat and am trying to work out if I should go with the three-color prop tips or solid yellow. Thanks
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