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About Jon020

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    West Sussex
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    Aircraft & railways, photography and model making

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  1. Hi Tony. Hope you're keeping well and thanks for the comment. Nope, I know exactly which bits you mean and whilst there aren't many photos of the aircraft apart from that one day, all those shots show the radomes being very tidy and no yellow showing through at all. That was a shame because I think they do add a splash of colour, but given that it was a relatively tidy bird at the time, I've refrained from applying this treatment... this time It could have had some wear showing on the port side or rear blisters as these don't show in the photos , but I'd imagine they'd all be in the
  2. OK, so this is quite a constructive post as much as come together. I decided to do some finishing off and some weathering (using oils and oilbrushers) which seemed to be enough for this clean bird. But first of all, a little hiccup. At some point between the clean finishes, a little much got picked up or wiped on the left side of the nose, which seemed to emanate from the sensor probe base plate that the artwork of Miss Molly rest her hand on. So, I had to carefully rub the varnish back to remove this muck. That was fine and I got enough of it off, but carelessly I also removed most of the col
  3. Glad I found this topic. I was looking to research some bits on F14 wing weathering on one of Tony Oliver's extensive threads but most of the images aren't showing. Will try again tomorrow. Jonathan
  4. Thanks for the comments chaps.... And yes Tony. Beware of blast. The ones I took off the transfer sheet were center justified whereas they should have been the rear justified ones.... left justified text on starboard side etc... but I realised a bit too late. I did find using the Furball sheet quite a challenge as many of the markings are similar, but not identical. The modex numbers are all slightly different and working out which ones on the sheet to use for this aircraft took some comparing, but I'm pretty sure I got those right... just didn't spend as much time on the smaller details
  5. A quick post as I'd grabbed some photos ... still need the weather to improve when I've a few minutes spare and apply some aqua gloss... but for the time being: Transfers complete by Jonathan Hughes, on Flickr and Transfers complete overview by Jonathan Hughes, on Flickr see if you can spot the transfer that's wrong... or rather the one that I know is wrong. It's visible in the first one only cheers Jonathan
  6. One to watch with interest. A fab scheme and one I may do at some point. I've yet to get my hands on the academy kit, but by all accounts it looks quite nice. Good luck with the build and will follow avidly. J
  7. Apologies for the lack of updates of late... many thing have been vying for my time and satisfying all masters can be a challenge; the F-14 has therefore been neglected a bit, but I thought I ought to write up the progress, trials and tribulations encountered since my last report. So... as I’ve found with much of this model, nothing quite goes as it’s intended, and applying the transfers and “red bits” found a way of going wrong that I’d not anticipated... so some rework was, in the end, needed. To cut a long story short, for those that don’t like suspense... (almost) all of the tran
  8. The stuff mentioned, wasn't Thiokol was it? Gets used a lot to form a waterproof (and conductive if the conductive type is used) seal between panels on civil stuff)
  9. Cheers Tony. Hope you're well. I'll admit that I had a few "oh sh1#" moments but gave it some time and had a think.... and some consultation with my go to modelling consultant (he'll like that) Brian and agreed Aqua Gloss the best way to go. It's a good varnish and settles nicely despite putting it down badly. I'd found I'd been using the same pressure as for MM paints (about 10psi) but saw that it should be 15-40 psi, so I turned it up and sprayed from a greater distance... yup that helped. I've to work out how much to trim the Furball fin decal and I want to test some paints first. I've got
  10. Ok, so per my previous post, I’ve now cleaned everything up and given the model (all external bits that will have decals applied) a really good covering of a couple of coats of Alclad Aqua Gloss... a good hard varnish that easy to apply, dries quickly and well and rubs down easily if you’ve managed to put your finger on a wet bit whilst you were handling it ... yup! But all good now. Aqua Gloss coated by Jonathan Hughes, on Flickr I’ve also been thinking about the decal; sorry, transfers – but it’s fewer letters and I’m lazy I’d put the removed fin markings back on their backing pa
  11. Ok, so as implied above - this will very much be a case of one step forward and one step backwards. Having been away for a much needed break (in the Yorkshire Dales - so far away from us [about 300mi] but so beautiful)... I came back and decided that it was time to tackle the transfers. I'd been toying using a mix of the kit decals and those of the Furball sheet. Unfortunately, the furball ones are sized for the hasegawa kit, so the Hobbyboss thin fin presents a problem with the all-fin decal.. it's also a slightly different shape at the bottom of the grey leading edge piece. I wasn't ent
  12. Hi Houston. Thanks for your very kind comments. I'm pleased that my meagre attempts meet with some smiles. Now, as for the length of posts, the following one wont be very long as I hit a snag - a case of one step forward and two steps back - but that's part of this - live and learn. Cheers Jonathan
  13. I set about giving the body components a good coat of Missions Models Semi Gloss. It seems to go down well and gives a good sheen... except in one case when I really did seem to mess it up and it looks like I applied too much too close and it rippled awfully along the starboard wing upper surface... fortunately, mostly just in the middle of the wing’s chord. Messing up with the semi gloss coat by Jonathan Hughes, on Flickr I walked away (best thing to do) and let it harden off, and then sanded it back with fine paper (1500 and 3600) so that it was smooth... and then (carefully) drift
  14. A painting update... mostly involving playing with white and some more Light Gull Grey 16440 building it up panel by panel before giving general light wet coats to blend everything together and giving that rather nice sheen that 16440 has, whereas 36440 is quite matt and flat; but a little more fettling found its way in too. I started off by applying some light coats of white to the tail outer surfaces, the tops of the inner surfaces and the outer surfaces of the ventral fins. I have the Furball set for this aircraft but I know that it’s sized for the hasegawa kit, and the hobbyboss fins
  15. Right, as we had to wait in for a plumber this afternoon, I thought I'd lay down a little of the light gull grey. I did this essential panel by panel to retain some of the panel line shading, and some of the under colour variations remain. Not much, but it was always going to be subtle, and let's face it, this whole project is a bit of an experiment for me. I've both the 36440 and 16440 light gull greys. I laid them down on an old coach body to compare them and found 36440 to be a Matt finish; 16440 is a satin finish. The Matt covers easier (as you'd expect) so I started with this one; my top
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