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About Doc72

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  1. Well, let's be content that sometimes the nerdy mould-makers can overrule the narrow-minded accountants. BTW, in a similar vein Fujimi has made a F7U Cutlass. It would look great next to the Skyray.
  2. I always wondered why Tamiya made a kit of this rather off-beat, less-than-well known aircraft. Maybe I am underestimating the market for early USN jets. But it looks kind of cool and you certainly did a great job the way you built and weathered it.
  3. Well done! I think it was good idea to choose the Fujimi kit over the one from Airfix. The panel lines just look better.
  4. Looks great. I like that the flaps are in the lower position.
  5. Indeed. It is basically the same engine. The CV-990 used a civil version of the J-79 without the afterburner.
  6. In general, I don't build 1:144 airliners, but a CV-990 in Spantax markings would really tempt me. Spantax was a fascinating airline. I think, they crashed a relatively high percentage of the total CV-990s produced.
  7. Hi John, thanks a lot. Who would have thought that this is such a difficult question?
  8. Very nice! I like your style of painting and weathering. Your videos are also very instructive. What kind of wash do you use? (Something home-made and water-based? I think it is explained in one video, but I don't remember where).
  9. The numbers are really scary with hindsight. But keep in mind that not all of these shells were fired in vain or without effect. The purpose of Flak was also to make bombing less accurate by forcing the bombers to fly higher, faster and to take evasive maneuvers. Still, it is always staggering to realise how inprecise the whole AA effort was. Proximity fuses would have made a great difference, but this is one of the technological fields were the Allies clearly had an edge. BTW: Consider that the vast majority of flak shells never hit a bomber while the vast majority of bombs dropped
  10. No problem, you are very helpful and I appreciate that. I know these are tricky questions. I have already looked through countless photos and haven't found an answer. Any input or suggestions are highly appreciated.
  11. Thanks! So you would say dashed yellow walkways are most likely? And what about the dashed lines for the wing tanks? There are clearly on the underside of the wing but on top?
  12. Hi everybody, I need your advice on what stencils would be approbriate for B.15 from Akrotiri around 1967. This is the aircraft I am trying the build: And this is the current state of the model: I have second thoughts about the two red warning triangles on top of the fuselage behind the cockpit and about the dashed black line indicating the wing tanks. Should I remove them again? Also I wonder what kind of walkway markings (if any) are correct on the wings? I have seen this thread about a similar aircraft and there the conclusion seemed to be a yel
  13. Very nice model! You did a good job on the nmf. Me too, I made my first solo flight on a Blanik. I remember pulling the nose up slightly before extending the flaps without bruising your hand on the sharp-edged metal between the lever and the cockpit wall.
  14. And now in glossy and with the first decals: Decals are a mix of Model Alliance, Xtradecal and Modeldecal. The aircraft has the serial in six positions, that means 30 separate decals.
  15. WH954 carried Microcell 2" rocket pods under wing or more specifically: the Microcell pods with frangible nose cones and 37 rounds. Where to get those? I decided to buy the 2" rocket pods from ResKit. These resin items represent the 36 rounds version with a metal nose, but I suppose the dimensions are about the same and I can scratchbuild a rounded nose cone. The Reskit launchers are finely cast and look beautiful. Here you can see them (above) already with the new nose cone: The only issue is, they look huge under the wing of the Canberra and also in comparison with a
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