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Bobk

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About Bobk

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  1. Until there is a record of RLM 01 Silber being used on Bf-109's in Spain, and then the only record there is mentions Silberweiss why doubt it. If any documentation shows up that mentions RLM 01 Silber than I will gladly say that it could be RLM 01 Silber.
  2. Mr. Johnston has done his research and quotes primary sources from contemporary times to back up his claim that they are painted in Silberweiss. Isn't it a bit presumptive to discount contemporary descriptions of colors from people who saw, touched and ordered that color paint and painted or retouched the paint on those Bf-109's. The recorded color IS Silberweiss and not Silber RLM 01. There has been many, many suppositions as to what these Bf-109's have been painted and the one that comes closest to the photographic evidence appears to be the theory that Mr. Johnston has put forth. And the documents in the VK/.88 and pilots logs and journals point to the fact that it was Silberwiess. Mr Johnston makes a very good case that two of the units where used for assessment of the color that the Bf-109's where painted vis. a vis. camouflage and concealment, one in Silberweiss and the other unit in "European" two green scheme. Mr. Johnston has footnoted the chapter about camouflage with official documents and photos that back up his suppositions. All of this is laid out in his book "German Eagles in Spanish Skies", David Johnston, Schiffer Publications, 2018.
  3. About half way down David Johnston answers that question and gives a good modern approximation of the color. https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/hyperscale/viewtopic.php?f=149674&t=239891&p=2470572&hilit=a+little+help+from+Bf+109#p2470572
  4. This might help ..... http://universalviewer.io/uv.html?manifest=https://collection.sciencemuseum.org.uk/iiif/objects/co8465602#?c=0&m=0&s=0&cv=0&xywh=-6818%2C-407%2C19108%2C8124
  5. Could someone please dig up an old Air Enthusiast Quarterly that opened with a couple of paragraphs from an eye witness that mentioned that the SB's came off the the boats and sat on the wharf's and were in a "brown" color. I remember this stopped me in my tracks when I read this eye witness account. I can't vouch for the accuracy of his words but it is an interesting nugget if true.
  6. I'm reposting this from a previous post on this category' The Aztek double action airbrush are one of the most divisive, anger generating subjects that modelers talk about. Love it or hate it, just remember it's a tool and as such it takes practice and patience to come close to mastering the use of this tool, it also takes an understanding of the design of the tool. I don't know the design history of the Aztek line of airbrushes but I think they wanted to rethink airbrush design and did a fine job of it. I think the mindset of the designers was to design an airbrush that was easy to use by anyone, even those who had no experience. They threw away the rule book, think "Apple" of airbrushes. As such it has to be handled differently than traditional, old school airbrushes and I think that is the only place where Testors / Kodak dropped the ball. They took all the technical words out of the manual and replaced them with pictures which did make it easier for the complete novice to understand how to use it. That was fine as far as it goes but it also put off the traditional airbrush user and contributed to the feeling that this was a toy and not a "true" airbrush. Also it fostered a feeling that it was a poor design. I picked one up maybe a year after they first came out and was happy with it, and that is with several other traditional double action brushes in my possession. The ease of cleaning and the super cleaning station along with the performance was very handy for me. Well it has only recently that I read a letter from Testors that was sent to a user that spelt out, in words, the design and "correct" way to use the Aztek. Several important points showed up in the letter. 1. Never use the "Blow Back" or "Reverse Flow" method, where the airbrush nozzle is covered and a shot of air is used and forced back into the reservoir to help mix paint or clean the airbrush. This seems to be the main problem with the way traditional airbrush users, for the lack of a better word foul up an Aztek airbrush. Almost from the time that the airbrush was invented this was the gospel way to mix paint and clean the metal bodied "traditional" brush. When a traditional brush user does this it forces paint and cleaning fluid past the "needle seal" in an Aztek airbrush. The paint and cleaning fluid then evaporates and leave a gummy residue on that needle to the point that it will freeze up the needle control and people will force the finger trigger which causes ......... 2. The plastic connection in the trigger to break. It's part of the design of the Aztek airbrush to use the easiest to manufacture pieces to bring down the price of the brush. It works as long as you stay in the parameters of the brush. In the 3000s version of the Aztek that connection isn't plastic and is a slightly better, stronger metal piece. There are several online forums that show you how to clean up a gummed up needle control and how to PREVENT it from happening. So if your trigger freezes up DO NOT FORCE IT!! There is a very good post on the Aircraft Resources forum that will walk you through how to free up the needle and repair that problem if your trigger freezes up. Again this points out another difference between a "traditional" airbrush from the Aztek brush. If this happens with a traditional airbrush you just immerse the metal body in the cleaning fluid of your choice and "work" the piece until it comes free, can't do that with an Aztek because it is built to close tolerances when it comes to "forcing" a part. And a traditional airbrush user will, just out of habit, use a force that is ok to use on a metal brush. 3. Speaking of immersing the brush in your favorite cleaning fluid..... can't do that with an Aztek. Due to the design of the Aztek brush it depends on the air tube in the body of the brush to stay pliable so that the trigger will be able to shut off the air when you release the trigger. When the Aztek is immersed in cleaning fluids much past the metal ferrule in a "hot" cleaning fluid it will affect the plasticizers in that air tube and will cause it to deteriorate and eventually fail. But then again there really is no need to dunk the whole body of the Aztek and drowned it in any cleaning fluids unless, and it's a big unless, you have not read the first point that I wrote about and have been "back flushing" your brush. A traditional metal bodied airbrush will gladly be immersed in a bath of cleaning fluids with little or no problem as long as rubber o seals are taken into account. So a traditional airbrush user will out of habit cause problems for himself by over use of cleaning fluids on the body of an Aztek air brush.. 4. Just like a traditional air brush you still have to make adjustments to the nozzle control before you spray paint, sometimes with a Mac valve or positioning the needle in the chuck, etc, etc...... With an Aztek the best way to adjust the needle to with the ferruled wheel. With a traditional you can adjust the brush so that with the first pull of the trigger all you will get is air, but with an Aztek it is usual for the nozzle to be set where with the first pull of the trigger you will get paint and air so you have to adjust the ferruled wheel to stop the paint flow. 5. The nozzles can be soaked in cleaning fluids, hot or not. And they can be taken apart and "deep" cleaned but that is not recommended by Testors. I confess I have done it, but not often maybe twice a year or when the nozzles give me problems. The recommended cleaning procedure in this letter is to soak them in Acetone or the appropriate cleaning fluid for no more than 10 minutes but I have left them in overnight - ish. There are several forum posts that will walk you through the process of "deep" cleaning the nozzles. 6. I have only the plastic or resin bodied Aztek air brushes, but I think this also applies to the metal bodied Azteks too because the internals are the same only the outside has changed not the internal workings. So I think, and I only think, that most of the problems that people have with the Aztek air brush is the fact that they, out of habit, treat the Aztek as a traditional metal bodied old school air brush. Rather than using it as an Aztek air brush. It's not a problem of the user, it seems to be a problem of communication from Testors. It boils down to a matter of taste, like do you prefer a PC or an Apple 'puter? They both work well but they are very different and I think it's the same with the Aztek line of air brushes. In their haste to make an air brush for the masses they forgot to tell the traditionalists that it needs to be handled a little different. I use my Aztek for mostly acrylic paints and have not used much in the way of "hot" solvents or cleaning fluids on it and it works for me. I'm also posting this to give you an idea, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i5C9XRo6Qv0
  7. One of the best english language books about the Spanish Civil War in the air, other than his own "Some Still Live", is on sale at the Naval Institute Press in the Clear the Decks area for $3.70 + shipping. https://www.usni.org/store/books/clear- ... n-no-glory
  8. this might be the book that "tells all" about color and deployment of Bf-109's in Spain. https://www.amazon.com/German-Eagles-Spanish-Skies-Messerschmitt/dp/0764356348/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525968675&sr=8-1&keywords=german+eagles+in+spanish+skies
  9. If you can wait a few months this might help. https://www.amazon.com/German-Military-Vehicles-Spanish-Civil/dp/1473878837 also if you can find the book "Motores en Guerra Guerra Civil Espanola" by Josep M Mata Duaso http://www.editorialsusaeta.com/venta-libros.php?editorial=Susaeta&ref=S0851143&id=55664 has a page or two about Opel Blitz
  10. I have a photo from ebay that shows either a MB 200 or an MB 210 cockpit that shows the instrument panel as a very dark color. My guess would be black or midnight blue but I would lean heavily towards black.
  11. Bobk

    Caudron C.600 Aiglon

    This might help. http://tagazous.free.fr/affichage2.php?img=1244
  12. Looks to me as if the door of which you speak is hinged along the top edge and when opened lays up against the bottom of the wing so it opens outwards. On page 5 of this subject about Oct 3 2017 you will find two photos that will clear up the question, I hope. http://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=310&t=49106&p=1873039&hilit=MB+200#p1873039
  13. You will not find a reference to the "recall flag". Look for the Blue Peter. https://www.crwflags.com/fotw/flags/xf-sign.html#bluepeter We still use the blue peter on the tall ship that I crew on.
  14. this pretty well answers the question. http://www.network54.com/Forum/149674/thread/1489460211
  15. Bobk

    Heinkel He 60 armament

    SSOOOooooo looking into this a little more the most "reliable" source that I have is the "The Luftwaffe Profile Series No. 7" by Gerhard Lang and I think it brings a little light to the subject. What he says is that there where 5 different series A, B, C. D and E the first three, A, B and C didn't have any armament other than the possible observers ring mount. He starts his description of the D series by saying " The He 60D was essentially similar to the C-version, but it incorporated a fixed, forward-firing MG 17 machine-gun,,," He is demonstrably wrong about the number of machine guns but I think he goes some way in explaining the forward firing machine gun conundrum.
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