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Seawinder

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About Seawinder

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  • Birthday 06/03/1947

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    Lincoln, MA, USA

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  1. Hi Crane. Your OQ was about Mk. V trops. I'm pretty sure I recall a thread from some years ago in which people opined that planes receiving MU theater repaints probably didn't have the walkway lines replaced, so that might be something to keep in mind.
  2. The only answer I've ever read to that question is that there's no way to fix it since it's due to a chemical change in the material.
  3. 81/82 can be a green/green scheme depending on which variation of 81 was used. Taking 82 as the lighter, brighter shade, the darker green could have been the green version or 81 or possibly that elusive dark, olive green previously referred to as 83, which, based on the Merrick & Hitchcock chips, is not hugely different from 71. You might want to do some digging regarding the under surface color: I'm pretty sure I remember reading that at least some areas were left in bare metal.
  4. Yes, and I said as much above. I think Amt-4 is somewhat darker than 34151, but it's the same sort of hue. I still go with AKAN's rendition, but Gunze's Mitsubishi cockpit green (C126) is prety close. The latter is only found in the acrylic lacquer Mr. Color line, which is one of my favorite paint brands anyway.
  5. Seawinder

    F4U-4 Corsair

    Hi John. Glad it was helpful. Yes, I'm an officer and newsletter editor for Patriot Chapter. I remember Hal very well and fondly. He was a beloved institution all over Region 1. You probably met him at Baycon (not to be confused with the most perfect food): Bay Colony was his home chapter IIRC.
  6. Seawinder

    F4U-4 Corsair

    Sorry, Johnv. I didn't have the sharing set up properly. It should now be accessible to anybody with the link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NvNqAERUMHHpqKrxHoLlt6fFuIgHXx-i/view?usp=sharing Hope it works. PM me if you still have trouble. Cheers, Pip
  7. Seawinder

    F4U-4 Corsair

    I'm not aware of any weapons set. At the very least the kit needs a replacement engine (the F4U-4 had the later R-2800-C engine with all the bolts) and rocket launcher stubs, which were factory installed. When I built mine ten years ago, I made the stubs from styrene strip shaped and cut to size. I did a build report for my club newsletter detailing the various mods and additions I made. Here's (hopefully) a link to the article in case it may be helpful: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NvNqAERUMHHpqKrxHoLlt6fFuIgHXx-i/view?usp=sharing
  8. To my eye (and on my monitor), H117 looks the best of the bunch, but R361 would be a reasonable alternative. H226 is in the ballpark, but it looks too light and too yellow IMHO.
  9. The Airfix series of 1/48 Lightnings may not be new, but IMHO they're still very nice kits, and they have the virtue, AFAIK, of being the only options in that scale. They originated in the mid-late 1990s, about the same time as the Airfix 1/48 Spitfire 22/24 and Seafire 47. It was a good era for Airfix, and I'd say the two series are comparable in quality and engineering. From what I read the Airfix Lightning is the most accurate in any scale, but there isn't much competition. I built an F.6 in the late 90s, which obviously doesn't qualify for you as a RECENT (sic) build, but I remember it well. It was challenging, but rewarding, and the result was a striking model that took a first place in a local contest two years ago. In terms of fit, it can't be compared to recent Tamiya, but it's not bad especially considering it provides complete intake trunking back to the engine. I used a Cutting Edge resin cockpit that I imagine would be about impossible to find these days, but CMK and Aires both do resin sets.
  10. It may be that your photo has to reside at a hosting/sharing site rather than simply on a cloud drive. Just guessing ...
  11. I'm with Massimo (from whom I've learned a great deal -- thanks!) on this. Olive, as in olive drab, generally implies a certain brown element, but AMT-4 as far as I understand it is more a yellow-green, almost a darkened version of US Interior Green. For my part, I totally go with AKAN, who, I think, doe an aqueous acrylic version although I prefer their acrylic lacquer. Mr. Color C-126 (Mitsubishi cockpit green) is a pretty close approximation, so if they do an equivalent shade in their Mr. Hobby line, that'd be a possibility as well.
  12. Re embedding the image, there should be a dark button/box at the lower right corner of your reply editing screen: "Insert image from URL." Click it, paste in the URL and click "Insert into post."
  13. There are so many obvious variations of the demarcation in the photo you posted that it seems pretty clearly to reflect different freehand applications. Were they even still using mats at this point?
  14. I'd be interested to know about the upper wing cannon bulges found on Vc's: I should have thought they were all or mostly the wider ones developed for the two cannon arrangement, but were the narrow bulges as seen on Mk. IXs also used?
  15. I'd like to mention two significant assembly issues for the Hasegawa F-15C, one of which I built a couple of years ago. First, Hasegawa engineered the seams where the inner and outer upper wing sections join along a line that doesn't coincide with any panel line and which is very close to at least one of the oblong inspection panels. Eradicating the seams required a lot of filling and sanding, and the inspection panels had to be re-scribed. I finally got it to the point that the joins were not glaringly obvious, but they were still visible from some viewing angles. Second, as redcap mentioned above, the joint of the cockpit nacelle to the rear fuselage is problematic. Although I didn't experience a step, the joint is fragile and again doesn't coincide with any panel lines. I reinforced the joint with strip styrene tabs, which helped somewhat. FWIW, the Aires cockpit set, which I used on mine, actually fits quite well and looks good.
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