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Seawinder

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About Seawinder

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  • Birthday 06/03/1947

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    Lincoln, MA, USA

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  1. You can simply sand a flat spot in each tire. If the wheel is mounted and fixed (non-rotational), put the model on a flat surface, lay the sandpaper under the tire, and slide it back and forth (carefully). This will insure that the flattened tire sits flush with the ground. I use a 120 grit rotating sander disk which is a good size and stiffer than normal sheet sandpaper. If the wheel is free to rotate, you can probably still hold it in place temporarily.
  2. IMHO the mostly PE cockpit that comes with the Eduard Profipack fits together surprisingly well and looks really good. The only challenge is getting a close color match for the few items that aren't PE.
  3. At the risk of hijacking this thread, and since Spitfire cockpits have been mentioned, I have not been able to find a definitive answer to the question of the color applied to the open bulkhead at the rear of the section aft of the seat bulkhead. Given aluminum paint for the area, was the bulkhead aluminum as well, or green?
  4. Well, the seat belt arrangement is not what was found Mks. 1 to IX, and looking at the Cutting Edge seat in the Mk. 24 I built, I really don't see much if any difference. Others may know more?
  5. Hmm. The only Spitfire seat I find at Barracuda is 1/32 scale. Ultracast do nice ones with or without seat belts in 1/48. Quickboost also does one (48401) that with belts that go down behind the seat. I think that would be okay for a Mk. 22/24.
  6. Based on my research for a Mk. 24 build some years ago, the cockpit color was indeed Interior Grey Green. I used a Cutting Edge resin set for the cockpit. They're now hard to find, but there is presently one for sale on Ebay (USA). The seat doesn't look much different from that of earlier versions, which gives you several options including Ultracast. Frankly, it's not all that easy to see into the depths of the cockpit. I'd content myself with a good replacement seat and save my money for the Barracuda items mentioned by Scimitar F1; you might also want to go for their stabilizers/
  7. Are you possibly talking apples and oranges? The OP doesn't specify whether the Tamiya Gustav in question is 1/48 or 1/72, while the Fine Molds kit is 1/72 AFAIK.
  8. I heard back from Jim. He has no photos of VF-85 Hellcats with the lightning bolts.
  9. If there's anybody on the planet who might have the photos you seek, it would be Jim Sullivan of North Carolina. I'll email him and see.
  10. Tamiya's A6M2 is a rather elderly kit. It's not bad, but I'd recommend going with the newer Hasegawa, which is one of their second generation range of 1/48 Zeros. They're not impossible to find.
  11. For me this begs the question: how did Swedish pilots look different from other pilots, and what would it take to modify a generic pilot figure?
  12. Understand about the photos. Re the painting, isn't it possible that it shows the plane before the yellow surrounds were added? It's captioned as April 1940, which is about when the yellow surrounds began to appear from what I read. Also, according to Michael Bowyer's little book, fin stripes were in use before the A1 roundels were mandated. In any case, I'm thinking I'll go with the Xtracolor instructions, except using Light Stone, to more or less replicate the painting. I think it's a neat looking scheme, and I'm not that excited about yet another Dark Earth/Dark Green paint job.
  13. No worries. Please check my edited response above and let me know what you think.
  14. Thanks for the response. Unfortunately, the photo links aren't functioning. Can you do anything about it? Here's a link to the only image (besides Xtracolor's profiles) that I've found for VT-B. Assuming the painting is an accurate rendition, are we indeed looking at Light- rather than Mid Stone? https://www.flickr.com/photos/alimarante/6087610753 Pip
  15. MSG is quite similar to US FS36270, which is definitely a medium, not light, gray.
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