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Seawinder

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About Seawinder

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  • Birthday 06/03/1947

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    Lincoln, MA, USA

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  1. I'm pretty sure there were instances where the scallop areas on P-40s with desert camouflage were painted in the lighter camouflage color, Mid Stone. Whether this was applied at MU or the factory I don't know.
  2. Hi Antti. Two questions: The color chip directly below Dark Green: is it Ocean Grey? What is the source of the chips, and is it (still) available for purchase? Thanks, Pip
  3. Thanks, Luka. I was aware of PB's hijacking/ransom policy (I cancelled my account a year or two ago for that reason), but it seemed odd that recently uploaded (I assume) photos would be being blocked in the same way.
  4. I can see photographs, but they're blatantly out of focus and partially covered by the PB logo. I'm running Firefox on an iMac, and I'm not seeing any currently active links to any fix. Can anybody explain what's going on? p.s. My apologies if this has hijacked the thread.
  5. Thanks all for the information. Unfortunately, the decals have been applied and flat-coated, so I'm just going to go with the wrong serials. However, I will use the straight exhausts, and I won't apply the circles to the prop blades.
  6. As I continue my build of the Airfix 1/48 Spitfire as a Mk.IIa, I'm at the point of installing the exhausts and finishing the propeller. Airfix provides both the straight and fishtail exhausts. I'm using the Xtradecals markings for P8522 RF-W (303 Sqn. Polish mid-1941). In their instructions, they show all the Mk.II's with fishtail exhausts, but I think I've seen a couple of photos of Mk.II's with straight ones. Does anyone know if there is a recorded serial number when the exhausts changed from one to the other? In the absence of any further information, I plan to go with fishtail. Regarding the propeller, I'm using the Rotol option also provided in the kit. I've been unable to find any photos showing the blades from the front, so I'm at a loss as to whether they had the typical Rotol circular labels. I'm guessing that, if present, these would have been pink for Jablo-coated Jablo. Can anybody clarify the presence or not of the labels and/or the composition of the Rotol blades used on Mk.II's? In the absence of any further information, I'll probably apply pink circles as an educated guess. Many thanks, Pip
  7. Thanks everybody for the information and photos. Apparently, as I had gathered from other pics I've seen, the indicators are really strips rather than rods, so probably best represented by bits of sheet styrene. The photos also make clear that the indicators were just aft of the panel line, not actually on it. Really helpful; thanks again!
  8. I'm building the Airfix 1/48 Spitfire Mk. I as a Mk. IIa. I know the plane certainly (or at least almost certainly) had the gear down rods on the wings. I also know where they go: directly forward of the bulges at the panel line with the walkway stripe. What I don't understand is why no kit producers (or at least Airfix and Tamiya in their recent Mk. I) show any vestige of the items in their wing surface detail. So, I'm wondering what the wing looked like when they were not extended, and what sort of hole they emerged from when the wheels went down. Thanks in advance.
  9. Red Dog, could you explain your process a little further? Did you paint green first? I'm seeing lots of different shapes/sizes, but you say "several." Result looks very good.
  10. While the model may benefit from those items, I personally don't think they're necessarily needed. As I said above, the kit seat with the Eduard PE stuff looks pretty good, speaking as one who just about always uses resin ejection seats.
  11. I'm with Jordi. On the Block 25 I built a few years ago, I only used the Eduard PE set for the central consoles of the instrument panel: the outer screens painted up fine without PE. You could certainly use a resin ejection seat (I'd recommend one from Sierra Hotel), but I used the kit seat with belts from the Eduard set and thought it looked pretty darn good. I really liked this kit and hope you will too. The only nit I recorded in my build notes was the flap attachments were flimsy.
  12. If you're into acrylic lacquers, MRP also does the two grays (I used them for a recent F/A-18C build and liked them): MRP-38 light and MRP-97 dark.
  13. FWIW, I just finished the Airfix Sea Fury in markings for O-106, but the decals came from the Barracuda sheet, which is IMHO very well done, and might be a viable alternative. According to their instruction sheet, Carmichael was given credit for the shoot-down, but never claimed it; and Ellis emptied his guns into the MiG, which then crashed.
  14. I assume you mean Tamiya. You could also (gasp! heresy!) build them as USN and/or USMC. The Americans did fly them. More seriously, at least in terms of buildability, the recent Tamiya Spitfire Mk. I is brilliant, as are their Ki-61 and Bf 109 G-6. Their older F4F, Me 262 and Do 335 are very good. I'd also recommend the Zvezda Yak-3, which is slightly complex, but which builds very nicely. I'm not primarily a jet guy, but I absolutely loved building the Tamiya F-16 and have two more in the stash. I'm also looking forward to the Great Wall Hobby F-15C and MiG-29 I've recently acquired.
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