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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/14/2019 in all areas

  1. 66 points
    Dear members, Like many other modellers, I admired John's Aero diarama of Stackton Aerodrome. I thought this was a good opportunity to add an old model, when I just started to build in scratch. I did some homework, because it is a long time ago I build this model. Of course in pre- internet days, we had only books and magazines. From a Scale Models Magazine, October 1980 , I used the 3-view drawings as starting point, further I used Profile Nr.144. As times literally flies... To revive the old times, here, I hope you like the photographs, With kind greetings, JohnHaa
  2. 62 points
    Hello! This is my new kit. In this time it was a testing some new technologies for me. Plastic set of excellent quality. But anyway I used aftermarket sets. Resin engine, fuel tank, gunsight and exhaust from Quikboost. Machine gun barrel from Master. Resin wheels from Reskit. New to me was the use of decal rivets HGW. Paints HATAKA. Weathering oil dots and washes, salt dots and pigments. Decal is Berna decal.
  3. 62 points
    Hello again, Here is the second model I have completed this year after another Eagle. Started this one thinking it would be a fast build to get into painting quick, and just finished it after 6 months of not a lot of free time. Very decent kit, the main issues being the simplistic exhausts and the overly thick closed canopy. Still an enjoyable build with not a lot to fix, and trying to spruce up that gunship gray was also a fun painting experience. 1/72 Academy #12550, Twobobs Da'Heath decals, KA Models exhausts, Reskit wheels, weapons from the kit, Skunkworks, GWH and Tamiya. Thanks for watching.
  4. 55 points
    If you like the Spitfire and have not read Jeffrey Quill's book "Spitfire", do so. This is my Spitfire Griffon Prototype in the form it was when "raced" against the FW190 and Hawker Typhoon July 22, 1942 at Farnborough. It's not in Quills book, but I read somewhere that Supermarine had put a pair of A-wings on DP845 for the occasion, so this is how I made it. Its the 1/72 Tamiya Spitfire I with a XII nose grafted on. I rather like the look of it with the pointed spinner. Hasegawa IX canopy, Xtracolour enamels, decals from the spares box and DP845 done on inkjet printer paper. /Finn Bonus: Here's the FW190. Tamiya 1/72 FW190A3.
  5. 38 points
    I didn't expect to finish this one, this side of New Year. It's the hopefully soon to be re-issued 1/48th Javelin. I had bought it when it first came out but put it to one side as it was just too big. Then last year I built a couple of F-102s, an F-101 and an F-106 so what was I scared of? Well the length is fine but it still has an enormous wing span. I normally use the pound coin to show how small my 1/144th stuff is but it seemed appropriate. It went together like a dream and all I added were some belts and a pair of Master pitots. Well worth the money IMHO. I also used a set of markings for a 5 Squadron machine from Xtradecals. Still not sure I'll build another due to the size and anyway there are sooooo many Hunters I want to build. Thanks for looking.
  6. 38 points
    Hi all There was a comment posted last week stating how you don't often see the Hobby Craft 1-16 kits. I think the rationale for that is the fact the kits are a mishmash and out of the box, do not accurately represent any specific variant. So, with that being said, I present five I-16's which I built back in 1999. I have tried to correctly represent each of the variants I modelled, but good references were not thick on the ground at that time, so I am sure there are some inaccuracies. Each kit received a Medallion resin cockpit (remember that company?), new exhaust pipes and vacuform canopy, as well as a litany of other small modifications. They are shown below in order of Type 6, 10, 18, 24 and 29. Many years after completing these kits, a found a photo which shows the Type 29 and it should have yellow wingtips on top as well. Oh well. Cheers and thanks for looking. Randy
  7. 32 points
    #28/2019 And another one finshed. Hasegawa kit with Authentic Decals, AK Real Color AMT-7 and AMT-11, EZ Line for antenna wires and brake lines, Eduard seatbelts Build thread here https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235061405-lend-lease148-curtiss-p-40k-warhawk-soviet-airforcevvs/ The model shows an aircraft of the 760th fighter regiment, 261st composite division in Karelia winter 1943-44. DSC_0002 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0003 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0004 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0005 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0006 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0007 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0008 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0009 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0010 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0011 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0012 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0013 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0014 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0015 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0016 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0017 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0018 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0019 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0020 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr
  8. 32 points
    Just finished this Academy 1/48 F-4B in the In The Year I Was Born group build. It's built as 153045 of VF-161, in which Victor Kovaleski got the last US air to air kill of the Vietnam War in January 1973. Decals were from Furball Aero Design and were excellent. Build thread is here thanks for looking Julian
  9. 31 points
    Dear members, I like to show you my model of the Atlantic C-2A, with the same type of this aircraft history was written. Called Question Mark was a modified Atlantic- Fokkert C-2A transport airplane of the Unitd States Army Air Corps. Commanded by Major A. Spaatz, it was flown for a flight endurance record as part of an experiment with aerial refuelling. The Question Mark established new world records in aviation for sustained flight, refueled flight, sustained flight and distance between January 1 and January 7, 1929, in a non-stop flight of more than 150 hours near Los Angeles, California. (Wikipedia) I build this model as a normal every day workhorse, without the special modifications of the question mark. Here I included a link to my WIP: https://modelbrouwers.nl/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=47732 Well I hope you will enjoy the pictures of this model, With kind greetings, JohnHaa
  10. 29 points
    1/32 Wingnut Wings Shorts Felixstowe F.2A early. Great Yarmouth, 1918. So... here we go. It started as a thread where Mark and myself were supposed to be joint building. Mark never started his, I started mine, I continued the build thread for a while but in the end the commitment of a build thread was too much for a build at this level for me, so it fell by the way side a bit. However... 8 months later. 4 bottles of whisky. 80 metres of monofilament fishing line. 300 Bobs Buckles. Around 50000 swear words (wish I'd put £1 in the jar each time I'd said one!), 8 sheets of Aviattic CDL Decals, 2 sheets of Aviattic Woodgrain decals and one incident where I left the radiator on whilst I had the flu and came back to find all the rigging had come out. But I've finished it. Absolutely delighted to have finished it. It was an incredibly enjoyable and rewarding build from the start - but ultimately challenging. It's a true reflection of the skills of the team at Wingnut Wings though. Kit is mainly out of the box with the addition of Bobs Buckles for the rigging, 5 Gaspatch Vickers RNAS Guns, an HGW seatbelt set and a lot of Aviattic decals. The display box arrives next week and this will be firmly stored away - but as of now, I can relax and build a few smaller ones for a change. Time to rest and have a beer! Chris
  11. 27 points
    Oh, before I forget - here is what I meant when I said the blue in the Print Scale roundels was too light. Here it's compared to an Xtradecal roundel from my spares box. I think this shows the issue. It looked worse when I slid one onto the model. Whoosh! I slid it right back off. The white wasn't very opaque either. For those of you who have the Heller/Airfix T.3 in your stash, or have built the kit in the past, you know that the actuator ram/connector link that's part of the nose gear is moulded as one solid piece. This isn't right, as the real thing has lightening holes in its forging, and resembles a Y. The Airwaves PE set gives you a photoetched replacement piece, but I didn't want to remove the plastic piece in its entirety as the nose gear is spindly enough as it is. So I culled my years of modelling experience and pulled out "Modelling Perception Cheat No. 437." I painted the plastic link flat black, and glued the PE part on top. Voilà! (or is it Violin!?) Works for me, but I'm easy to please. And now for the StickerStorm (thanks for introducing me to a new word @perdu!) The roundels came from the spares box, the fin flash and squadron markings from the PrintScale sheet with the appropriate amounts of sweating and swearing as previously noted (although the underwing codes came from a Model Alliance sheet). The stencils came from a variety of places, using the Airfix 1:48 placement guide. None of the stencils are readable without the help of a microscope, and none of them have any relevance to where they're placed (I suspect), other than the obvious ones that I had to do correctly (like the ejection seat triangles, etc.) The varnish is Floquil Flat, which is my go-to clear for an egg shell sheen. I love the stuff (cue another opportunity to curse Testors). Anyway, here she is at the moment. I elected not to do a panel line wash because old fumble thumbs scribed the lines so deep that they can be seen by @Martian Hale on top of Olympus Mons. There is a lot left to do. Tail planes, elevators, periscopes, simulator pressure heads, canopy seals, rest of the landing gear doors, wing pitot probe, airbrakes, exhaust painting, navigation lights, etc. I'm kinda linking how she looks though. Cheers, Bill PS. And once all that is done, I got another one to build. Yikes.
  12. 27 points
    Had some nice weather today so took a few pics of a kit I finished last year but haven't posted yet. Tamiya's 1/48 P-51B Mustang of Capt. John Bennett of the 352nd FG. Part of the 'Blue Nosed sweethearts of Bodney' (Sweethearts??? Oh edited by site. The b*astards!) Kit went together a treat. Painted with Tamiya acrylics. Decals came from a sheet that was part of Eagle Editions book 'The P-51's of Major George Preddy' by Mark Proulx and Sam Sox, Jnr. Book and decals cover all of Preddy's aircraft all called 'Cripes A'Mighty' and Bennett's shark mouthed P-51B. Only addition was an Ultracast seat and Albion Alloys brass tubing for gun barrels. Tried to make the Invasion stripes somewhat hastily painted ie. rough and uneven in places. Should've weathered the Stars and Bars decals in hindsight. Oh well, live and learn. Comments welcome and Cheers for looking.
  13. 26 points
    After two years of hard slog during which I have also completed a Heyford, a Chipmunk (as a sanity break!) and a PhD, here is my take on the Matchbox Stranraer, finished as K7292 of 228 Squadron RAF at Pembroke Dock, autumn 1938. The WIP is here. At some point I'm going to do a Stranraer reference thread for the Interwar section to share all my refs and discoveries, I'll update this with the link when I've got round to it. Don't hold your breath! Having decided to start on adding some detailing to this and the concurrent Heyford, I went fairly mad. The following is a reasonably complete list of my alterations: Scribed hull (including some corrections to MB’s panel lines on rear fuselage and nose), plus lower wing stubs, floats, cowlings, nacelles, and upper centre section. Removed large raised cargo door on starboard side of hull, (a postwar civilian modification, copied from the Hendon machine by MB) and cut a new window in its place as per pre-war aircraft. Detailed the kit door part. Reinstated recess for sliding side portion of canopy above the entry door. Cut out the sliding canopy section and replaced with an acetate panel mounted in the partly slid-back position. Scratchbuilt most of interior including pilot’s position, navigation compartment, rest bunks, mid-upper and tail gun positions. Retained kit floor and bulkheads (with modifications) but everything else is built from plasticard or wire. Thinned down gunner’s wind shield. Scratchbuilt Scarff mountings based on kit rings. Replaced kit Lewis guns with cast brass examples from Miniworld (well worth the ridiculous price). Replaced small ventilation scoops abreast wireless operator’s compartment. Various extra hull details added, including rectangular ventilation scoops on port nose and between port windows, bollards and mooring/sun canopy cleats on nose and rear fuselage, hinges for bomb aimer’s door, towing/lashing eyes and strengthening plates along keel, navigation light at extreme tail of fuselage, and porthole with bars on cabin roof. Detailed main beaching gear with longitudinal struts, winding handles, stowed tools, bolts etc. Added fairing strips over joints between lower wings and stub wings, and at tailplane-fuselage joint. Cut out bomb recesses in lower outer wings, adding Marabu PE Light Series Bomb Carrier in each of the large recesses. Added APU exhaust and drainage pipes in lower centre section stub wings. Added navigation lights and aileron actuators to lower wing tips, cut out port side landing light and added heat-moulded light cover from acetate. Added inspection covers on floats. Reshaped cowlings to show a more curved profile and thinner trailing edges. Opened out cowling apertures by about 1mm extra diameter (not quite enough, I suspect, but oh well!) Drilled out exhaust pipes and lowered the profile at forward end to better blend them into the collector rings. Replaced Pegasus engines with resin examples from CMK, including replacing the too-short resin pushrods with plasticard and adding cowling braces. Thinned down and reshaped kit propellers. Added the prominent if mysterious bulges at the leading edge of the forward cabane struts where they meet the nacelles (not fitted on the Hendon machine). Added cores with mesh faces to the oil coolers. Full rigging applied using EZ-Line and homemade turnbuckles. Decals from the Revell reboxing. Things I chickened out of but which you could also do if you're feeling like treading this path to insanity: Crash mould more accurate canopy (windscreen is slightly too vertical I think) Detail front compartment and pose open (references for equipment fitted here are almost non-existent) Detail wireless operator’s compartment (completely invisible) Replace kit beaching gear wheels (poorly detailed but I couldn’t think of what to use) Despite all I've just said above, it's a pretty darned good kit, especially considering it celebrates its 40th birthday this year and we're unlikely to see another one, unless the likes of Valom oblige. If only MB hadn't quite so slavishly copied the Hendon machine with its non-standard mod state, it would have been near-unbeatable. Oh, I suppose you've come here for photos! Here we are.
  14. 25 points
    1973: The last shoot-down by a US aircraft in the Vietnam War. Lt Victor Kovaleski of VF-161, flying an F-4B from USS Midway, downed a MiG-17. Two days later he achieved the second 'last' when his Phantom was the last US aircraft shot down in the Vietnam War. I decided to build the aircraft he flew for the last shootdown: cheers Julian
  15. 25 points
    This is a bit special for me, the kit is a gift from my 13 year old son for Fathers Day. He dragged his mother off to our LHS and chose and paid for it himself. Mum suggested cheaper kits but he said that "he knew what Dad likes" It is the current Airfix kit with added seat belts and decals from the stash. It represents one of 485 Squadrons non presentation marked machines as I had no tiny letters suitable. Most of the early machines were so marked and were Dark Green/Dark Earth so this is a bit of a compromise on my part. He's never been interested in modelling, unlike his big sister, but recently he's built VW Beetle and has another Tamiya vehicle to build. Thanks for looking
  16. 24 points
    Hello, this was just quick relax project with easy click B-25 Mitchell from Revell (ex old Monogram snap-tite), how it will look when glued and painted ..airbushed with Revell aqua Martin 20191208_122216 by Martin Kubis, on Flickr 20191208_122323 by Martin Kubis, on Flickr 20191208_122332 by Martin Kubis, on Flickr 20191208_121928 by Martin Kubis, on Flickr
  17. 24 points
    Build report can be found here: Comments are welcomed as always Ran
  18. 23 points
    Hi all moved from the stash to display case finally, after many years in box. Will not take lot of your time explaining the model, classic old italeri, quite good fit, not many details, and in overall a nice model. I always liked more this prototype version with big crazy looking tails and sharp edges, which somehow disappeared on production model. Colors Italery acrylics, minimal weathering, i cut some surfaces on the wing to make it more interesting....and that is all. Images....and best regards
  19. 23 points
    Today Winston had his first solo in Il-2; he picked a P-47: The little chap managed to do a fairly creditable job of keeping it in the air and when he finally crashed, it was a graceful wheels-up landing. Anyway, managed to make it downstairs tonight after catching a few episodes of Silicon Valley with Mrs P (whose favourite show it currently is). The big news is that one Spit just needs sanding to be ready for primer: And the other is coming along: So one issue I've long had with Airfix Spitfire Is is the fuselage fuel cap, or rather its absence in an area that's hard to sand: Fortunately, I have a hugely-expensive highly specialized tool of very limited utility for just such eventualities! The second-largest punch, a 1.4(mm?) one, worked perfectly. *Fanfare*
  20. 22 points
    Got a little more done in the last two nights. I used Colourcoats Roundel Red, rather than their RAF/FAA Red, which I hope was the right choice, but right or not, it sure looks great. I've painted the blue and white on the fin flash, so I hope to polish the rest of that off tomorrow, and then start on the fuselage roundels.
  21. 22 points
    Hi guys and gals, Can you believe this is my first Messerschmitt 109? I've been modelling for years and never got round to making one of these seminal aircraft! Well, I've now broken my duck so here's the very nice Revell G-6 Late kit in a dramatic nightfighter scheme (Red 2, 1. NJG) from an AIMS decal sheet. There are seven more versions on the sheet so it was great value. The aircraft was painted in Colourcoats enamels (still the best model paint I've ever used, and shall continue to do so!) I used RLM 74/75/76 and RLM 02 with an overspray of Night Black. I thought this was a really cool looking scheme and makes the clean lines of the aircraft look even more menacing! I don't know much about these aircraft or modelling them, so there are probably a few howlers - I just enjoyed it for the easy-to-build kit and cool paintjob! All the best, Alan
  22. 22 points
    Evening all, I've been a little quiet here lately and need to catch up with whats been going on BM. Over the last nearly 2 years, I've been putting together this little project and have spent the last couple of weeks finishing it up. So here it is finally. set in late 1938 early 1939, this is the County class cruiser HMAS Canberra, modified Leander class cruiser HMAS Sydney and the V/W destroyers HMAS Vampire and Vendetta in a fictional harbour setting. This is the link to the WIP here on BM http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234929463-ran-late-1930s-diorama/ and the display case I finally got for it Last but not least, a quick attempt at a background, I want to do more of these when I get a chance. Currently the diorama is away for the weekend for the the model expo here in Melbourne Australia, hence the rush to finish. I would have liked to have added more details, there is only a bare minimum of people on there and there are a few other bits, but I can come back to it one day. For now the expo given me a push to finish it, I don't expect to win anything but at least I can stop looking at it thing I really need to finish it. Thanks for looking and all the advice and help in the WIP to everyone, and I hope you like what I have finished up with. Cheers Callum
  23. 21 points
    Storm Atiyah hitting these shores today: Co.Kerry's just shot up to a red warning and we're expecting big winds to hit where we are this evening further northwards so cracking this out before any power cuts. Most kind of you Chris: there'll be one going up at some stage during the week, sunlight permitting! 'Fraid so Crisp. P.99 and we are done!: You're a wicked man Adrian. ... I just knew there had to be a better reason for the Heinous Hawk Hiatus than merely cycling round the world twice Steve. So. In under the century with the props and rudder on this morning. Some of the paint touchups involved more complicated masking than originally anticipated due to the proximity of roundels but pleased to say that aside from knocking the large point aerial err....aside, no parts were dislodged. Don't fancy heading out into Atiyah with Annie and a camera today so expect an RFI during the week when the light is kinder and the atmosphere in less of a foment. A few teasers to keep you going until then: It's been a long haul hasn't it? I don't mind admitting its taken it's toll somewhat on the Baronial carcass... What on Earth am I going to do with my days now? Tony
  24. 21 points
    Here's another model I finished today, one of my many Spitfires. Looks like this one fell into the wrong hands, that or the paintshop guys are the world's worst (or perhaps best) spies
  25. 20 points
    Hi there. The build is over and can be followed here: Comments are wellcomed Ran
  26. 19 points
    Interesting. I’ll confess to not having thought of sellotape. Not a material I’ve used for modelling. Am a bit sceptical tho’ Not sure if sellotape can stretch around compound curves; also, I did think about cutting/trimming the radiused ends of the flanges in-situ - but decided it was easier/neater to sand such a small radius before fixing it in place. In the end I was comforted by the fact that good old plastic card is so controllable. Welds nicely to the the surfaced with solvent, can be scraped, sanded and trimmed etc etc. Anyways (1) - Wot’s a bit of palaver? The hobby’s full of palaver (mind you - that could just be me....) Anyways (2) - chance to use my favourite scraping gizmo: Anyways (3) - I ain’t taking them orf to see if sellotape’s better!! First stage clean up/refinement. Should look sufficiently neat.
  27. 19 points
    Funnily enough I find that being a lawyer has a tendency to send me to sleep, tired or not...... Soupçon of solidarity acknowledged Will endeavour to to reciprocate where appropriate (lawyer’s promise, suitably caveated.....) Not sure how much modelling has happened in these 131 pages tbh. Keep expecting the Mods to shut it down....... 3D modelling skills? I’ll have you know I downloaded an app to this very iPad (not that you can see or know that I’m typing this on an iPad Pro in a coffee shop after having been to the gym - except that I’ve just told you of course [wish I’d not started that]) - gonna start very slowly learning. After all you can email designs to your mates to 3D print with this clever internetty/emailee thingy can’t you....You know, extra special mates Thread drift? Oh well. With all due apologies for drift..... Finished the gun sights (with the same tacky bit of (unmentionable egg) foil [sorry Crisp]) and stuck em to the coamings. Tried Gators Grip (not sure) so ended up using it as a positioning tack for some thin cyano: I’ll add the glass at the need of the build. Don’t hold your breath...... Probably too purply now - especially as Kirk, in a post somewhere above, backtracked somewhat and suggested it was actually on the green side of purple But if anyone wants to stick their heads close enough to the Hawk to see the gun sight lens then there be plenty of horrors to distract their attention....... Next task. Not finished with the wing fences yet. At 1:1 they have a flange that (presumably) is used to attach them to the wings. It’s not recreated in the kit moulding or any of the etch sheets - so I thought I’d have a punt with some 0.2mm Tamiya plastic paper cut into 0.5mm wide strips: I then used a scrap wing to stretch the strips a little to encourage it to conform to the shape of the wing: One end rounded and glued in place with some Tamiya green-cap: Once dry, then stretched/pulled around the wing: And trimmed and shaped and stuck underneath: Now waiting to fully dry/cure. With a drop more green-cap, the front has softened and conformed to the wing angle better than in this piccie: 0.2mm is a little on the thick/clunky side. I would have preferred to use 0.1mm but I’ve found that the 0.1mm plastic paper softens/distorts too easily when in contact with a liquid cement like the green-cap so 0.2mm it was. Anyway - the plan, once the flanges are dry, is to gently thin them to a less overscale appearance with a sanding stick. I’m hoping that they’ll be a little but eye-catching addition once painted. A bit of a dark wash should show em up nicely.
  28. 19 points
    Hi, this is my latest project - Hawker Hurricane Mk.I, scale 1/48, Airfix. Marking 312. (Czechoslovak) Sqn., pilot P/O Adolf Vrána, January 1941. I used photo etched instrument panel and seat belts, resin wheels and exhaust, all Eduard. Colors are Gunze "C". Decals are DKdecals.
  29. 18 points
    Well, they're coming back today for a second showing, so hopefully... Also, who sent me a RAF side cap? It arrived at my office today. Was it one of you? Fess up!
  30. 18 points
    Thanks Giorgio The fixable has been fixed! Thanks Keith, great tips Both! I'm not dropping anything to test it! I know I can do this Though sometimes wonder why I know I can bloomin' do this At least it's not a Fly Your wish is my command! Thanks Tony Thanks Will, great tips too I think my main problem is with the fast-drying Stynylrez - I need to speed up in the future! Thanks Crisp I had been using a cheapo job too but it's one of those with the tiny, tiny nozzle that has to be removed with a spanner. Nightmare to deep clean. I'll hold on to it though; might come in. So, two days and nothing done! Both days were family events - enjoyable but involving some imbibement that precludes (safe) modelling afterwards. Today though I had some mojo, perhaps inspired by this: Shadow of my 'Crikey' on the wall. I don't know why I've not noticed it before. Coming over all Baronial Finally the final coat of primer has been applied: including a blast on the prop blades prior to yellowing the tips. They are yellow aren't they? Better check…
  31. 17 points
    Thanks Steve and Giorgio I bottled out sticking the PE to the aerials as I'm bound to knock some off. I've masked the white ones and readied the six grey and two greens for painting: Not forgetting the front one. Ready for painting now: Note the curtains covering the floats and rigging. I've decided I'm going to try free handing the camo as she's too big to do the usual 'total colour' coat and I want to try my new airbrush. Too brave? We shall see…
  32. 17 points
    Mrs Gorby is getting suspicious as to where all the lids are going. She's developing a haunted look, so I needed to find a good (easy) way of making reasonably accurate cylinders/tubes. The lids I originally pinched for the two main wheels turned out to be unsuitable – the plastic was too thin and poor quality. Fortunately, along came a brain wave of truly tsunami proportions (although in hindsight it was more like a ripple that'd be unlikely to make an ant loose it's balance). Remember back when we were at primary school learning about dinosaurs and other current events? We used to use scissors to curl paper and stick them to other bits of curled paper for our parents to throw in the bin when we got home. Using the same method 0.25mm styrene curls very easily (I used the brass rods as I'm more likely to injure myself with scissors than when I was five). 0.5mm was a bit more effort (using the back of a scalpel blade) but still worked well. 0.75mm was equally successful but required a stronger device (the gouge/chisel). Even when I trained as a draughtsman I rarely used pi. I've used it more on my last three scratch-builds than since I left school. It's almost as if it was worth going to school. Not a lot of my education seems to have stuck, but is it my fault if I haven't got a sticky brain? Rather than use the currently known 31 trillion digits of pi, 3.142 was close enough to find the length of the side walls then a narrower tab was glued to the inside so that when the full circle was done the front and back face could slot inside using the inner tab as a stop/spacer. I didn't take any photos of the assembly as I'm giving you credit to be able to understand written instructions (okay, I forgot to take photos). The single small front wheel started it's modelling career as a Micro Sol lid. Little did it know when it was young that one day it would be discovered and go on to achieve great things. Unfortunately it got that wrong, as I chopped half it's body away drilled holes in it and hid it's natural beauty behind layers of plastic. Here it's been shown having a face lift. Originally I'd used double sided tape (as in my A7V build) but it wasn't up to the job. I had to apply super glue to it as you would normally use Tamiya Extra thin. Bit messy, but worked well. The wheels temporarily in place: The blob on the deck (?) is a drop of water to see if the deck is level. The thing I thought would be the next most difficult bit turned out to be quite easy – if a little fiddly. It's what I believe is called an 'elliptic leaf spring'. Only one of my reference pictures shows this springy thing, the rest don't, but I like it so it's in. First I made a simple, and pretty tiny jig. Over the two bits of tube on the jig slip two fatter bits of tube and the first strip of 0.3mm plastic gets wrapped around. Then: Off the jig so that I don't end up with a nice springy thing – but stuck to a bit of wood: Looks a mess as it's before it got cleaned up. That's just a wooden 3mm thick spacer in the middle: Front wheel assembled and primed: Time for my Robey to get some body and other extremities. There is much to catch up with, as a result, this post is turning into something of an ordeal. It was about this time that my mojo hit the buffers. Due to all the reference photos bickering about their petty details, I was wondering if the build was possible at all. I abandoned modelling and went of to do something completely different, but of equally futility. The only reason I returned to it is that I've never ditched a project part way through and I didn't want to start now. It was also because I found something I want to have a go at building – that won't happen until this out of the way. I needed more reference pics. A glass half full sort of person would have relished the opportunity to search down the missing information and set off skipping though fields of daisys, whistling merry tunes. A glass half empty person would have thought “sod it” and punched a rabbit or something. I'm more of a “who pinched half my bloody drink” sort of chap, and ploughed grimly on for two days through the deep dark Google mines. I found a bit more, but it only added to the confusion. Damn. Anyway, back to the only type body-building I'm ever likely too do. This is the underside of the deck (if I was playing Tetris, I'd have lost). The bits on either side are water tanks. Next the boiler gets fitted (odd that, it looks like half a test tube). The cone at the top was the result of plan B, as so many of these bits are. The ruins of 'cone - plan A', all three attempts: Plan B was just four disks glued together (the pole is to keep them central) and then turned on my mini lathe like this: Okay, it's a Dremel with delusions of grandeur. I couldn't resist putting the bits together. Next I need to dress the body and as my Robey is dead macho, this should under no circumstances be referred to a skirt. As I seem to be drawn to things covered in rivety pimples, I've re-purposed a bradawl to make the experience less painful (for me, not you). I've got no idea what the things on either side of the deck are. One image shows them as rectangular and one shows them with rounded fronts. I went with rounded. The yellow stuff is the double sided tape before the backing is removed. No prizes for guessing the base for the steering wheel is half a wheel from the spare parts supply. The riveting on the deck is a work of fiction. Like much of the build really. As I've not been doing this modelling business for long, I haven't got many spare bits to rummage through. This is my entire mini hoard: Coal bins for the back. There is only a little empty space at the top so that I don't have to fill the whole bin with 'coal'. I remember reading somewhere, somewhen, that coal is one of the few things that modellers can use that can be used for itself in miniature. If you see what I mean. But I haven't any coal and having a bag delivered is probably likely to be considered to be overkill, when all I needed was one lump. I'll probably use crumbled cork. In the original engraving I showed a few posts back, the funnel is a little dull. I can't have dull. Most of the other images I've found show a much more flashy funnel. As is so often the case, plan A failed. I tried sawing a few mill down from the top, all the way around the tube, splaying the petals outward and inserting tiny triangular wedges in the gaps. It sort of worked, but it was so fiddly and time consuming I gave up. I desperation I had a rummage in my drawers and thought this might be a possibility: After filing, scraping, puttying and sanding, I'm quite please with the result: I have no evidence that this was on any Robey steamer, as this build is delving into the realm of fiction, mine does. I know you can buy plastic 'I' beams, but I've never had a use for them, I just wanted to see if I could make them. Saw a square tube lengthways, Glue them back to back, Tadaaaaaaa. All together now….. If you've managed to get this far, some countries would award you a medal and a small pension. This, being Britain, I'll just say “Ta”.
  33. 17 points
    Recently completed is my interpretation of an RAF Air Sea Rescue Launch of 1944 using the Airfix kit. Built mainly from the box with a few changes. MG mounts replaced with scratch items. Kit Mg's replaced with Coastal Craft offerings. Retained the kit Oerlikon mount but the Oerlikon itself was replaced with a Coastal Craft item. Aerials and rigging made from Uschi line. Hull painted with Halford's black. Deck upwards was Colourcoats enamels. Kit decals. Most of the model was weathered with a wash and then 'knocked-back' to make it more subtle. Sea base is insulation board, painted a dark blue/ grey from Halford's. Coated with layer of Liquitex Acrylic Pouring Medium and stippled with Valejo Acrylic Gel. The launch wash is made from 'teddy bear' filling. Work in Progress here: See it in the flesh at SMW at the weekend. Stuart
  34. 16 points
    Bill you're right, of course - you have to get it while it's going, otherwise it's gone Terry I'm glad you're enjoying your purchase and the view! Excitement here has kept me up so while I'm listening to results… These have to be the most sticky out sticky out things I've ever stuck on: …and there are eight more on the sides! For these: …there was an outline for the DF but nothing for the pitot mast. And that front aerial support… gulp. Will it stay there? We shall see (da da daaahhh)
  35. 16 points
    Hello, a small kit, but very nice looking at the end. A lot of putty and cutting.
  36. 16 points
  37. 16 points
    Hi all Pipes on the heads of the cylinders. Regular formatting of the 18 pipes with an improvised folding machine. Set up the wire. Push the counter-piece And here are 18 regular pipes Setting up the cylinders. The admission pipes are too short. I want to leave the engine hoods open and the pipes are too short which bothers me. I've extended the intake pipes. For the masking of pipes, I use Teflon, used in sanitary to waterproof the fittings. There you go. I foresee the same problem with the exhaust pipes. See you soon, Sweety (Google Translate)
  38. 16 points
    Hi folks Yes, I am airscale as in the cockpit aftermarket airscale and yes, we are very much still in business @Skyediamonds our website is www.airscale.co.uk - take a look around So Telford was great, really enjoyed it and we did very well on our stand - thanks to those who dropped by Since being back, I have managed a few bits & bobs - first the outer gear doors.. I made blanks of the doors in rigid nickel silver and fashioned the internal pressing shape from 3mm plastic card - it is profiled in many different directions and is actually quite a complex shape... ..these were then fitted and litho annealed and formed around them... ..and completed with the mounts for the lugs that fit to the leg, and the sealing strip along the bottom edge.. ..then it was on to some wing bits & bobs.. the guns were fitted.. ..they are just dry fitted for now, so some fettling to do.. then onto the wing nav lights - these were shaped & polished from perspex samples - the blue is a bit dark, but it's all I have... also added the wing stiffeners near the ailerons on the upper wing, though some of the alclad came off with the tape I used to mount them so they need respraying.. upper side.. lower side... ..have also finished the spinner & prepped & painted the prop blades so hope to have the prop done next.. TTFN Peter
  39. 15 points
    Hiya Folks,.... another update,....... I`ve expended copious amounts of elbow grease while sanding the fuselage!!! The wings are now fitted too but need the seams along the roots filling and sanding yet. The resin engine nacelles have been dry fitted and slot superbly into place,...... the inboard left engine nacelle section of the wing has been sanded back to make the engines level,... while the right hand nacelle has been left untouched for now just to show how the engine incorrectly sits forward; Cheers for now, Tony
  40. 15 points
    My Spitfire XIVe highback is complete, still finishing the bubbletop. Here's a few photo's of the highback (as a teaser), I'll post more photo's 'ready for inspection' when I get a chance, and photo's of the bubbletop when complete. Hope you like, Colin
  41. 15 points
    Evening all, Many thanks gentlemen for the very kind and encouraging comments: I really appreciate them all. I have done some more construction work and painted the bulk of the model and it is beginning to look like what you see in the photos. I completed the horizontal tail unit by cutting and inserting between the rear fuselages a piece of 30 thou card with Evergreen strip (10 x 20 thou) ribs. I also added the small units on the outer sides of the fuselage plus the tail bracing, and then the two rods which were set between the forward parts of the fuselages: I assume that these were for the engine controls on the starboard side (the pilot sat on the port side). Painting followed - mainly acrylics for the upper and lower surfaces but Humbrol enamel white for the floats because I have some left from the past and I find that it gives a better coverage than the acrylic paint. The struts were Revell SM 382 which is another enamel - I just like the soft brown to represent the pine of the struts. The cockades were home printed and the serial came form an old set of RNAS/RFC numerals from Pegasus. The rudder stripes were painted: The white dots on the upper surfaces are holes for the struts. To put the top wing in place I used a procedure which I have found from experience is most suitable for multi-bay biplanes. I put some of the cabane struts into the lower wing - in this case the pair on the inner side of each fuselage, and the outer pairs of main wing struts. I used ordinary styrene cement and placed the inner struts against the fuselage sides first, then quickly added the two outer pairs and lowered the top wing. I had put drops of cement into the respective holes in the top wing. I was lucky because three of the fuselage struts fitted exactly and the fourth only need a minor adjustment. The outer struts were a little more fiddly but still went into place quickly. The whole assembly was jigged with paint pots to keep it square while it dried out overnight. The result was what I desired: This structure was quite robust when dry and allowed me to put in the remaining struts, one at a time, without problems. After these had been put into place I again left the assembly for a couple of hours to set properly before I added the kingposts on the outer parts of the top wing: The model is now ready to add the floats and that will be the next stage. Thanks for looking. P
  42. 15 points
    Last of the "carp" as I show. This is another Wessex UH.5 Italieri 1:48 model As before, the model was made straight from the box. . family picture
  43. 15 points
    Hi. I'm about to start the last build for the year. 'm going to build Kinetics new F-104G Starfighter. It'll be a Luftwaffe maschine 24+95 from JaboG 31 in 1983 as of this picture. All information about this aircraft can be found here. http://www.916-starfighter.de/Large/2495.htm And this is what I have to work woth. Kinetic (Gold) 1/48 078 by Bosse Persson, on Flickr 079 by Bosse Persson, on Flickr 080 by Bosse Persson, on Flickr Three grey sprues, one smaller with clear parts, a small PE sheet and decal for three individuals. The sprue look nice and clean an free from any flash. 081 by Bosse Persson, on Flickr The riveting are nicely reproduced. 082 by Bosse Persson, on Flickr Lots of fine details everywhere. 083 by Bosse Persson, on Flickr 084 by Bosse Persson, on Flickr 085 by Bosse Persson, on Flickr 086 by Bosse Persson, on Flickr Both early and late wheels are included. 087 by Bosse Persson, on Flickr Nice and stable looking undercarriage. 088 by Bosse Persson, on Flickr Not much of ordnance is included. 089 by Bosse Persson, on Flickr Just wingtip tanks, drop tanks and a pair of AIM-9B Sidewinders. Two sets of ejection seats. 089 by Bosse Persson, on Flickr Two variants of exhausts 091 by Bosse Persson, on Flickr 2 AIM-9B Sidewinders 092 by Bosse Persson, on Flickr I'll not use the kit decals. I'm going to use Daco's set of full decals and stencils on this one. 093 by Bosse Persson, on Flickr And of course a pitot tube from Master, and something more interesting than drop tanks under the wings. 4 Matra Samp 25ED bombs on twin store carriers from Wingman 094 by Bosse Persson, on Flickr 095 by Bosse Persson, on Flickr 096 by Bosse Persson, on Flickr 097 by Bosse Persson, on Flickr And with this the build is started. To be continued..... /Bosse
  44. 15 points
    The thanks are all yours, @CedB. What a host! In addition to arranging the itinerary, coaxing museum staff to allow us closer access, making hotel reservations, driving us all over dear old Blighty, and introducing us to Jake Thackray and the Amateur Transplants, Ced actually had to endure endless hours of conversation with Yankees. The horror! And to top it all off, Mrs. Ced made a killer Full English breakfast whilst we were domiciled at Chez Bufton. Magnificent! Thanks to @Procopius for the detailed diary. I am astonished at the depth of encyclopedic knowledge exhibited by you and @Cookenbacher at each stop on the trip. You're both too young to know all of that stuff! I'll bet you two were reading books instead of playing Space Invaders when you were kids. Truly an experience never to be forgotten. 2025, eh? If I'm still alive, I'm up for it! Cheers, Bill
  45. 15 points
    I think for prop jobs the static props on a 'flying' model can look unnatural and some of the 'prop blur' accessories aren't very 'lifelike' either. This may put some people off, but for me - if I'm going 'wheels up' I simply chop the props off and fill the holes. There is no right or wrong - just what you fancy. I make my own stands and use clear rods with a tiny needle in the end - leaving the hole in the base of the aircraft virtually invisible. At the end of the day - it's just a bit of fun - so whichever way you go - just enjoy yourself. Steve
  46. 14 points
    HI Here goes, maiden WIP. I bought this kit in early 00s while in UK - i have always been fascinated by idea of building a fully rigged 18th century square rigger. There are many models available on market costing $$$ and my thinking was that I could use the Airfix model to do this comparatively cheaply... Fast forward 15 years, with enforced time on my hands I am picking up modelling tools again and hope to work through my stash of kits. First step was to research HMS Bounty and find out what were the differences between Airfix kit and other models on the market. The internet is awash with photos of models and even full size replicas which gave me plenty of inspiration but each one seems to have a different colour scheme and slight variations in deck layout and other details. Some great model photos here: https://www.modelships.de/Bounty_II/Photos_Bounty_II_details.htm I found an excellent discussion by Prof John Tilley on merits or otherwise of Revell and Airfix kits here: http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/7/t/155394.aspx A problem for modellers/researchers is that the Bounty began life as a simple civilian merchantman and was bought by RN to convert for shipping breadfruit from Pacific to feed the slave trade. Therefore there are few drawings of the Bounty that exist. There are, however, fortunately some docs on-line that show conversion plans where Bligh's master cabin was converted to transport the breadfruit; eg see Australian website State Library of Victoria and National Maritime Museum, Greenwich. Colour scheme is therefore very much up to individual modellers as no record of paint scheme exists, although given that copper sheathing was applied by the RN, the Bounty may well have been in colours of British warships of the era. Who knows? https://viewer.slv.vic.gov.au/?entity=IE5772686&mode=browse I got a copy of McKay's The Anatomy of a Ship- HMS Bounty and decided to use this as a basis for my model but even this book has a major error in that stove chimney is the wrong way round compared with Admiralty drawings. Prof Tilley's articles are very helpful but IMHO Tilley is also guilty of promulgating incorrect idea that anchor hawses went through the foredeck. See Anatomy drawings for correct installation. The Airfix hull is generally accurate (compared to Anatomy), main issues are a badly modelled knighthead (curved raised parts either side of bowsprit), an inaccurately sloping deck, hawse holes too low and a weird breasthook. There are also no stern lanterns or pin rails or chocks for launch. A strange issue I have noticed is that the brown plastic of the kit is very brittle, much more so than newer kits. Normal polystyrene cement does not seem to work well and i am using much CA. Many of the parts have shrinkage requiring a lot of putty. Original model came out in 1987 and this is plastic moulding from that era, ie over 30 years ago. Starting point was to get the slope of the deck correct and to therefore to get hawse holes in right position. Working backwards from Anatomy as to correct location of hawse holes, the deck slope could be deduced and new supports glued in place... Most of Airfix knighthead was cut away and remaining knighthead reinforced with plastic strip to resemble Anatomy drawings. Doubting my ability to reproduce a painted timber deck finish, I came up with the idea of laying thin planks on the plastic. There is actually a ready made timber deck cut to shape for this Airfix kit available from US but is very expensive to ship to Australia (isn't everything?) https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Wood-Deck-Bounty-Airfix/dp/B079146JZS Then I found on Bluejacket site in US sheets of decking that could be cut to size - much cheaper and i could order rigging fittings at same time. Deck sheet duly arrived and to my horror was 1mm thick ( must have misread thousandths of inches which US deal in) which would throw out deck hatches, etc so next step was to raise hatch coamings and hatches by 1mm. I did not like kit solid gratings so replaced them with 1mm square wooden gratings. Chocks for cutter/launch added. I bought some sheets of Evergreen polystyrene of various thicknesses thinking that i could cut to size whatever i needed but this was most unsatisfactory. Strange how modelling knives seem to have lives of their own when cutting strips, etc. Rushed out and bought Evergreen strips! This tendency for knife to wander was even more pronounced with softer timber- to cut the planking sheet to fit over deck exactly seemed to be too difficult with no room for error so i decided to do planking in two halves, divided by a 4mm plank down centreline of ship (which is represented on Airfix kit). Of course, adding 1mm to deck thickness threw out my original deck slopes so i had to redo supports for deck. Along the way i decided to replace kit quarter gallery windows with transparent plastic. First attempt with Dremel saw to cut out windows resulted in destruction of port windows altogether so these had to be rebuilt. Plastic is very thick here and difficult to work (a bad workman always blames his tools).... Starboard windows much more successful and i decided to not use transparent plastic but just leave them open. This means i will have to do same to stern windows.... oh, well! Pencilled on ends of planks. Assembly of hull halves and deck was next, many dry-runs, much cursing and CA but looks okay Have started experimenting with painted wood finishes as you can see for hatches, coamings and balustrade. Next step to paint hull and install deck fittings. Cheers
  47. 14 points
    This thread is dedicated to support vehicles that keep our great airplanes ready for action. You're invited to add anything with wheels (or tracks) that complements your plane models. All scales and time periods are welcome. I, for my part, focus on US vehicles which fit my areas of interest. While impatiently waiting for the P-51 GB to start I dawdled away with building this bomb trailer, a USAAF M5 castered third wheel trailer with a payload of 5,000 lbs. It was a ubiquitous piece of equipment at every bomber and fighter airfield. Those of you who call the 1/48 Monogram B-17G kit their own will remember this bonus part which I enhanced with truck wheels, suspension springs, bomb rails, and other bits and pieces from the scrap box. It still looks a bit uninspired just by itself, calling for some tractor to move it - maybe a Cletrac or a bomb service truck. References: Technical Manual No. 9-760, Bomb Trailer M5, War Department, Washington 1942 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M5_Bomb_Trailer Some time ago I built this Willys Jeep which I posted in the AFV section. Full story here. Scroll down and you'll find many more beautifully elaborated vehicles and other accessories. Thanks for joining, Michael
  48. 14 points
    The last gunfighter - this model was completed in 2008. Cocpit Aires, photo etched parts Eduard, aftermarket decals.
  49. 14 points
    I examined my logs - and 99% of my builds so far were non-jet. The single jet in the list was built as a present to my Dad, so I have no jet on any of my shelves. What better choice for a first jet built for my shelf then the iconic X-1. I picked this one a while a go, and while I have the Eduard 1/48 kit as well, this one grabbed my attentions due to its clear parts and internal structure. So here it is: Very very simple, not to many parts and they are soooo small (I promised myself to never build another 1/72 without a VERY good reason) Clear parts were dipped in Future. The fuselage parts were a challenge as I dip into the bottle itself. First plastic cut and glued: The balance weight ball is a nice touch: It's too late for airbrushing tonight - so this will be it for today. Comments are welcomed as always Ran
  50. 14 points
    Hi All, As I havent been thrown off yet for sharing my dios for the first time here's another.... Airfix Tiger, scratched oil cart. I love the fact that the Air Ministry commanded EFTS aircraft to be camouflaged but the then CAA commanded they must still wear their registration, completely defeating the object... In a new technique for me I copied the original photo onto decal paper (from Mr Decal Paper off ebay) to add to the base. 48046794_10155949520090976_7126370880401178624_n by Ben Brown, on Flickr ATB TT
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